Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

iron_chef · August 2005

I had the same problem with my 93 Civic with 220,000 miles on it. Try a new ignition key. I had new key cut and it works perfectly. Mine was cutting out with a half of tank of gas. I was also having symptons of a main relay going bad. The new key fixed everything. The original ignition key was worn out. It's worth a 2 buck try.

mbot · August 2005

I was recently driving my 93' Civic 4dr LX (Canadian model, I don't know what American model this is) in the mountains and bottomed out on a gravel road. I am by no means a mechanic, but from what I can tell, I have cracked an exhaust pipe. Is there any easy way to repair this myself, or is it best to have it looked at by a mechanic? I am trying to avoid paying an arm and a leg to get it fixed, and if possible would like to repair it myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Mr_Shiftright · August 2005

sure just weld it up, unless it is the exhaust manifold itself. A muffler shop can weld a crack....but not a "crush". That would require cutting and piecing, which is probably more trouble than it is worth.

mbot · August 2005

thanks for the help... now, what is a "crush" vs. a "crack"... and if i have a "crush", is it worth fixing at all, or should i just live with the added noise?

Mr_Shiftright · August 2005

No, a crushed pipe needs to be fixed as it restricts exhaust flow.

civicexse2005 · August 2005

Hi,Angelm, Thank you for your reply. Could you explain a little more. Since I am going to have the car recheck next tuesday. I would like the dealer to check the right parts. Thank you very much.

civicgirl05 · August 2005

My AC sucks... the hot temps in Va don't help but anyone know how to get the most use out of your AC. I have it on full blast and it only seems to cool the car down, when most cars get freezing after awhile at some point.

Andrea

jbowman · August 2005

I have a 1997 Civic DX with about 99,000 miles. A week ago I was driving and noticed that the speedometer was not moving and then the check engine light went on. The car seemed to be driving ok otherwise so I drove to my mechanic's shop and left it with him for the day. When I returned to pick it up he told me that he had a problem reading the code (he doesn't usually service imports), but he had gotten a code for the Electronic Load Detector. He suggested that I take it the dealer. I have had problems in the past with the local dealer and they are the only dealer within 60 miles. I drove the car home and noticed that it felt a slightly hesitant and sluggish. I then took my car to a mechanic close to my home who does service imports. He had it for a day and told me the code that he was getting was for the vehicle speed sensor, but he would have to order the part. That was four days ago. Since then I have noticed things don't seem quite right with the car. For example, if I drove home at night the headlights/dashboard lights would pulse bright and dim. The car also has just not felt right, it was still slightly hesitant when starting from a stop sign. Also, the speedometer is jumping all over the place, even when the car is not moving. Then, last night I ran several errands and each time I started the car it seemed to be having a harder time turning over. Finally, at the last stop, it was dead when I went to start it. My husband pushed me and we got it started and went home. The whole way home the headlights/interior lights pulsated between bright and dim, we turned off everything in the car that wasn't necessary and we did make it home. When we got home (about 10 miles) I tried to start the car to see if it would turn over, and nothing. Today we tried to start it again and still nothing. My husband pushed me and I got started and we headed, reluctantly, for the dealer. When I first started out the car seemed very hesitant and sluggish and the check engine light was pulsating. The closer I got to the dealer (about 15 miles from home) the better the car seemed to be driving and the check engine light stopped pulsating. When we got to the dealer's I shut the car off and tried to re-start it. It started with no problem and sounded strong and normal. We let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it a few more times, again it started up great! I am now more confused than ever, one mechanic says the ELD is bad, the other says the VSS, and all the signs we had last night pointed towards the alternator.

I did see the post about service bulletin 99-029 and we were able to locate that bulletin online. We tried taking off the manifold intake bracket and wrapping the wires (which looked fine) and we saw no change in the car. Also, assuming we had the correct fuse, fuse 15 looked okay too.

What could this possibly be? Any idea how much this is going to cost me?

ncampbell2002 · August 2005

Make sure it is in the recirculation mode, and the selector for airlflow is in the top only mode. You will feel the difference with that. Also if you have a manual transmission, try using a lower gear while cruising around town. Your MPGs may go down slightly but the higher RPM will yield colder air. I have similar issues with my 03 Civic EX on 90+ days.

dhuber · August 2005

Problem:

At idle, with brake pedal depressed, and gear shift lever in drive, engine frequently runs slower, rough, and occasionally dies.

If in drive with emergency brake pulled, and brake pedal not depressed, engine runs fine.

Identical symptoms occur with vacuum line to brake servo disconnected and plugged, therefore, not a vacuum condition.

Conclusion:

There is some recently developed abnormal condition with the electrical system regarding the stop light switch or stop lights causing an abnormal signal to the engine control system causing RPM to fall, engine run rough, and frequently die.

Troubleshooting:

Fuel injectors appear to be operating normally. With an automotive stethoscope, a clicking sound is heard while the engine is running, and the idle speed falls off significantly when each of the four injectors is disconnected individually.

Distributor has been taken off, contacts cleaned, don't suspect anything here.

Condition is identical with vacuum hose disconnected from the brake servo and plugged.

Stop lights / reverse lights / running lights appear to be operating normally in all positions of the gear shift lever.

The wiring diagram shows a connection between the Stop light switch, the stop lights and the Gear selector switch / back-up light switch  Junction Connection C 417.

Same diagram shows a ground connection between the stop lights and the back-up lights at the rear of the car.

Stop light switch appears to be operating normally, but was not removed from the vehicle.

Suspect some faulty connection, inadvertent ground between the stop light switch / stop lights / reverse lights through Junction Connection C417.

Can anybody help?

angelawalker25 · August 2005

Sorry it too so long, havent been o the pc in a couple days. Anyhow, my fan blows even when I have the a/c button off. It continues to blow in any condition. I believe you answered my question. I will research the repair of the fan selector switch..

Thank You So Much!

doc9426 · August 2005

I have a 1999 Civic EX and I know I can adjust my headlights, in terms where the beam of light points, with a knob under the hood. My problem is I can't turn that knob. Does anyone know how to unlock that knob so I can turn it and adjust my beam of light?

jenklen · August 2005

I have a 1995 Civic EX that has not had any cooling issues until recently. On a road trip I suddenly started overheating. The temperature gets very hot, then will suddenly drop down to halfway - however pulling over and inspecting the water is indeed boiling so I don't think it's a sensor problem. I stopped at a Napa Auto Parts and replaced the thermostat, and headed back on the road. As soon as I started the grade uphill it immediately overheated. Back to Napa. Inspected the radiator which was clogged, so replaced the radiator. Now I was able to make it over the mountains. However coming home, although it ran fine through the mountains, I made a stop and after idling for 2-3 minutes, hit the red zone. Now the car is fine going uphill on the freeway, but it overheats in traffic! Any ideas?? I'm getting tired (and poor) replacing everything! Thanks for any comments.

henryl · August 2005

I have a 98DX Hatchback. My A/C does not work. The compressor will come on if I ground it. Then I turn off the switch it stays on. It even blows cold. I unhook the ground that I put on it and it doesnt even come on if I push the A/C button the light comes on but no compressor. I dont want to have it hooked up manually because it will run all the time. Could this be a relay, or switch problem. Any I ideas. Thanks link">

bwad · August 2005

Is the radiator fan working? When it is overheating you should see it running. Mine stopped working so I replaced the relay/fusible link and that fixed it. But since you just had your radiator out it may just need to be re-connected.

jenklen · August 2005

Thanks for the response - the fan seems to be working - unless it's only working intermittently... When I stop and check it it's on. I don't know if it's the water pump - I hate to change the water pump to find out I still have the same problem...

annieb3 · August 2005

My 1998 has problems starting. It turns over but is not catching.I took it recently to a mechanic who had problems trying to figure it out. He said the gas filter was closed. Well the problem started again(on a road trip!!) What happens is if I wait like an hour or so it will start up again. The thing is this is our third honda civic in my family that this has happen. Starting with a 1989 and a 1991. Its a weird chronic thing that starts to happen when the cars is a few years old. And mechanics seem to have a hard time figuring it our. I never did bring it to Honda but I would like to find our first what the deal is.
Anyone has this problem before?
Help!!
Thanks,
Annieb3

oldberkeley · August 2005

I have a 1991 Honda Civic. I'd like to change the fuel filter. Do the in and out fuel lines simply "unbolt" from the actual filter? That's what it looks like to me. Can anyone walk me through the process? Thanks much.

blueiedgod · August 2005

My AC sucks... the hot temps in Va don't help but anyone know how to get the most use out of your AC. I have it on full blast and it only seems to cool the car down, when most cars get freezing after awhile at some point.

Andrea

A) Follow the procedure in the OWNER'S MANUAL on how to use A/C effectivley.

Tint your windows.
C) Use a windshield shade when parking in the sun all day, crack your windows open, and tilt the sunroof with the shade half way closed.

blueiedgod · August 2005

I have a 1991 Honda Civic. I'd like to change the fuel filter. Do the in and out fuel lines simply "unbolt" from the actual filter? That's what it looks like to me. Can anyone walk me through the process? Thanks much.

I think you need to go out and buy a manual for your car. Chilton's or Haynes are only $20 at most auto parts stores.

You will need two wrenches to undo the banjo fitting without ripping the fuel filter off the firewall or damaging the supply lines.

blueiedgod · August 2005

I have a 98DX Hatchback. My A/C does not work. The compressor will come on if I ground it. Then I turn off the switch it stays on. It even blows cold. I unhook the ground that I put on it and it doesnt even come on if I push the A/C button the light comes on but no compressor. I dont want to have it hooked up manually because it will run all the time. Could this be a relay, or switch problem. Any I ideas. Thanks

You are either low on the refrigerant, or the low refrigerant switch is stuck.

jgrou461 · August 2005

I've recently purchased a 2005 Honda Civic LX and I have no idea how to optimize my gas mileage...higher RPM's, lower RPM's, full tank, empty tank - I have NO idea??? My first tank seemed to have gone much further then my second tank and I have no idea what I've done differently?

I was amazed at how much information is available in these forums but I haven't found anything (yet) that helps me out on this specific problem. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? I'm a automobile novice (dummy if you may) and I need your help.

Thanks so much.

Karen_S · August 2005

This article may be helpful to start.

Save Money on Gas

dsrtrat2 · August 2005

An '02 Civic LX 2 door with 13K miles just had the second window regulator replaced. Parts people say this is very common. Has anyone else had one of these go out? Has anyone gotten Honda to stand the repair a few months after the 36 month warranty ran out? I would expect this failure in a Yugo, but not a Honda!

kpmust · August 2005

car bucks while idling and starting out, also the rpm's will race up as you are driving at speeds of 35-45 mph

henryl · August 2005

Where is the low refrigerant switch located? It is full of freon I had the system vaccumed and then recharged but still wont turn on. Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts house.

pre_fon_taine · August 2005

I have a few questions:

What kind of noise does a blown strut make?
How much does a new front strut cost for a Honda Civic '02?
How much would be labor for installing this strut?

Thanks.

dsrtrat2 · August 2005

CO! CO! spells carbon monoxide. Any exhaust leak should be fixed! CO is a silent odorless killer, so don't take a chance. A bit late with this but just was browsing and saw it. Take care of yourself and your Honda.

hondaoner · August 2005

I have a 1991 Honda Civic 4 Door DX and I have the same problem. The mechanic cannot figure out the problem (could be the starter switch or the starter ), so he has installed a diagonistic light which comes on everytime I crank the starter on. This hopefully will narrow down the issue the next time it happens. It has been a few weeks now and the problem has not resurfaced yet.
I will let you know if I find out, let me know if you were able to find out as well.
Thanks
nt

hondaoner · August 2005

I found the cause of this issue . It is your main relay. Check this site for all the details for cause, and how to repair.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
Regards..
nt

502 · August 2005

I have an 86 dx hatchback and I want to lower it without cutting the springs, but I cant find any lowering springs anywhere. how can I lower my car without messing up the ride?

Mr_Shiftright · August 2005

you can't avoid messing up the ride if you cut the springs and you will definitely need a shock absorber that is made for the lower springs or you'll break them. You could buy an entire coil over kit but that's $$.

bxtom · August 2005

hey jere, I've been having the almost same exact problem on my 96 civic ex coupe. Taking off the panels is really no big deal. God knows I've had them both off several times attempting to find out the problem. If you'd like I can e-mail you (if you don't have it already) the part of the manual that covers this topic. It's really straightforward. As far as what I've attempted, I went to a junkyard and bought the driver's side main window switch (no change); checked all the usual stuff...relays, fuses, switches blah blah blah. The only way I can get my windows to go up or down is by taking off the door panels to get to the wires that go to the window motor and jumping them with a 12 volt battery charger. No luck yet with any of it, and I refuse to pay a dealership big bucks for an almost 10 year old car. The only piece of advice I heard (and haven't yet tried) is that the wires that pass through the door and into the car (where the hinge is) might be crimped, broken or damaged in some way. Might be worth looking into. Keep me posted.
Tom

jbman125 · August 2005

02 civic lx 31,000.
So my issue began a few weeks ago after a 5 hour drive I stopped for dinner for about an hour. After dinner my ac didn't work. The light was on, but only blew the fan air. The next morning it worked fine and I brought it in to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. A few weeks later I did a seven hour drive one day and everything was fine. After stopping for around 11 hours, the next morning I got in the car and the same issue. I drove for about 8 hours and the AC would come in and out through out the drive. I brought it back into a dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
Yesterday, I got in the car and same issue. The dealer checked the car out for the better part of two hours and after not finding anything wrong, decided to replace a pressure switch. Later that night, the ac stopped working. It didn't work when I got in the car today, but after driving for about an hour it would come in and out. Usually it would come on for about 10 seconds or so. It did that maybe four times and finally stayed on for the rest of the drive (25 minutes or so).
Does anyone have a clue what this might be???
thanks

craigmay · August 2005

I got a code reading of "PO135 (Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" on my 98 Civic LX w/manual trans. Can someone please interpret this for me? Does this simple mean I need to replace the o2 sensor and is bank 1 sensor 1 the sensor located right in front when the hood is up?

Thanks

(I understand I may not be descriptive enough...)

jbowman · August 2005

We removed the support bracket on the intake manifold a week ago to fix an electrical problem, now the bracket is gone. I am looking around for a replacement (hopefully from a salvage yard, no luck yet). In the mean time, is it ok to be driving around without the bracket? Should I limit my driving and the distances that I drive (I was planning a day trip about 70 miles from my house this week, should I cancel?).

mbot · August 2005

thanks for the advice... i ended up getting it fixed this weekend, and i had to replace the whole pipe, since it was rusted where the crack was and could not be welded back together... from the position of the crack no CO would leak into the cabin, but i am still releaved to have it fixed

randelah · August 2005

Hi,
My Honda does the exact same thing, and i live in Vegas, where it gets to over 110 degrees, and I got locked out completely one day. I was told by the Honda guys that I needed an actuator on the fron door, which controls the other 3 doors, but when I had them put it in, it only worked on the driver's side. Now they are telling me I need 4, which costs 55 per door plus labor. Not cool... I am in the process of contacting Honda to see if they can remedy this, as the mechanics neglected to tell me I might need all 4 doors done.

dudette3 · August 2005

Hi. I have an 01 Civic, and am checking into brake pad replacement. The car has 63K (mostly highway). Anyways, I got a brake inspection the other day, and the front right pad is quite worn down (outboard side is worn down, the inboard is fine). The left front pads are barely worn down at all.

I am trying ot understand what could cause this to happen?

I am going to take my brakes in for pad replacement, but i certainly want to make sure that they are working properly in addition. I have an extended warranty, and would think that if it is a mechanical problem, it should be covered. I want ot understand it better though, so I can speak intelligently about iit ..

if you have any suggestions as what could be causing this type of uneven brake pad wear, I would really apprecaite it.

alcan · August 2005

Usually caused by the caliper hanging up on it's slide pins. Didn't you like the answers you got in "Stop Here, Let's Talk About Brakes"?

blueiedgod · August 2005

An '02 Civic LX 2 door with 13K miles just had the second window regulator replaced. Parts people say this is very common. Has anyone else had one of these go out? Has anyone gotten Honda to stand the repair a few months after the 36 month warranty ran out? I would expect this failure in a Yugo, but not a Honda!

I had window regulators fail on the 2002 Si in the first 6 months of ownership. I called Honda corporate and complained. They offered lifetime warranty on the window regulators. What ever questions you have, you should address to Honda corporate, rather than the dealer. Dealer does not like warranty work becuase Honda does not pay them $80/hour they can charge you.

blueiedgod · August 2005

Where is the low refrigerant switch located? It is full of freon I had the system vaccumed and then recharged but still wont turn on. Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts house.

You wold have to refer to the shop manual for specifics. I know the general idea of how things function. Not specifics of each vehicle. That is what shop manual is for.

spydertech02 · September 2005

Jere, I got the exact same problem described that you have. My windshield cracked this past weekend and I had it replaced on Tuesday. I didn't drive the car again until Thursday. When I hopped in, the windows didn't work. I haven't had time to explore it much. I checked and swapped each of the fuses with no luck. I am wondering if the window repair didn't damage a wire somewhere in the framework and now it is shorting out the window power to the chasis. I will let you know what I find when I get some time to look into it. If you find anything else, please let me know.

mahesh123 · September 2005

I bought a new Honda Civic 5 months back.

(1) In the maintanance schedule it says oil should be checked every time i fill gas.
Is that necessary. I haven't been doing it at all.

(2) I have a doubt regarding "severe" driving condition. I drive 2 miles to work 4 times
a day.(morning, afternoon, evening). Is it severe. If that is the case, i think i should
change my oil at 5000 miles. Is that right.

(3) When i recently checked the oil, the oil level seemed to be below the minimum level.
But i put only 2500 miles.

I am not sure whether i am checking it correctly. Is it possible at 2500 miles, the oil
level is less than the minimum.

Thanks for your help. Just a little bit confused and want to take proper care
of my car.

blane · September 2005

mahesh123,

1) You should check your oil at least every couple of weeks. Sooner couldn't hurt.
2) Driving under 2 miles doesn't give the oil a chance to really warm up properly. Your Owner's Manual is correct in suggesting that you are therefore operating under the Severe schedule.
3) Adding one quart of oil every 2,500 miles isn't excessive. Just check it regularly to see if there is a pattern. Make sure to wait a few minutes, after turning the engine off, to allow the oil to settle into the sump before using your dipstick to check the level.

mahesh123 · September 2005

Thanks for your time in responding.

(1) I hope i should buy the oil from Honda dealer and fill it. I hope it is simple
and can be done by myseflf ?

(2) Is the same process applicable for coolant too ?

(3) I must then replace the oil, at 5000 miles as recommended by Honda maintainance
schedule ?

blane · September 2005

mahesh123,

1) Your Owner's Manual specifies the grade and viscosity (weight) of oil needed for your car. You can buy it anywhere. Oil and Oil filter changes are not difficult, as long as you have the appropriate tools, room to work (you may need to buy a set of portable ramps to allow you to fit under the car). Most important is to properly recycle the old oil at a reputable collection center.

2) Follow your Owner's Manual recommendations regarding frequency of coolant changes. It's a bit messier, so you may want to have that done in a service facility.

3) Yes, based upon your severe type of driving, 5,000 mile intervals are indicated.

mahesh123 · September 2005

Blane,

thanks for your response.

I am a little bit confused....

I think, if the oil level is less, i just need to add additional oil.(as indicated in your earlier
mail).

I think this is different than the oil change process (to be done at 5000 miles)

(or) are they same process ?

bellij · September 2005

I am having the same issue after having the dealer just change the high pressure switch because of the same symptoms. They said the next step is to change the thermal switch, then they can recheck the system and see if the compressor and or other related parts may be bad. If that is the case they said the cost is $1400 to replace.. Sounds kind of high since I know compressors are about $300 new. Let me know if you or anyone know of something different it could be.

blane · September 2005

mahesh123,

If your drinking water glass is half full, it is OK to add some more water in order to fill it up.

Same thing with oil. Just fill it only to the correct mark on the dipstick.

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions