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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • angelallangangelallang Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Civic EX with 70,000 miles. I just took it to the dealer and they told me 3 things were recommended to be fixed:

    1) Right rear trailing arm bushing is torn, and left is cracked, they recommended repairing both and performing a wheel alignment. Estimate: $595.

    2) Battery failed load test, they recommended replacing the battery. Estimate: $109.95.

    3) Oil pan gasket is leaking, they recommended replacement. Estimate: $310.

    I wanted to know if these are common problems, if the estimates they gave were appropriate for the work to be done, and most importantly, if anybody knows any service shops in the area that are good. I live about 30 miles south of San Francisco in Palo Alto, but would be willing to drive up to San Francisco, or down to San Jose for good service.

    I appreciate any recommendations.
  • kiserkiser Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Honda Civic LX with 110K miles on it. When taking off from a dead stop and the shift selector is in D4 the transmission will not downshift to 1st. I have to manually downshift or it sounds like a manual starting off in 3rd gear. Another interesting thing I noticed is when the vehicle is under way and I mash the accelerator it downshifts fine. I have noticed when the engine and tranny are cold everything works like it should. The problem only starts after about 15-20 minutes of driving.
    I just recently change the tranny fluid with Honda fluid and, per another forum, I replaced the linear solenoid.
    thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the battery is the original one in the car, that's probably a good idea.

    The pan gasket really depends on 1) how much it is leaking, which you can determine by placing some newspaper under the engine after you turn it off, and seeing how much oil leaked on the paper, keeping in mind that it "spreads" on paper AND 2) whether or not someone has gotten under there and LIGHTLY tightened the pan gasket bolts.

    The bushings? Hard to say. I'd get a second opinion from a TRUSTED front end/alignment specialty shop, not a CHAIN store, but an independent who's been in business in your town for a while. Sometimes a crack or tear is nothing, sometimes it is a safety concern and sometimes it can go quite a while longer.
  • pderbyshirepderbyshire Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend is having the exact same problem with her 1998 Civic Hatchback. Although her symptoms are not to the point of not being able to start the vehicle.

    What was your solution? We have already replace the VSS. Any guidance at all would be greatly appreciated.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " 2) Battery failed load test, they recommended replacing the battery. Estimate: $109.95. "

    $109.95??? Man I'm in the wrong business. Take it to Wal-Mart, should be about $50 plus free installation.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's a dealer after all. You pay for convenience and you're paying their shop rate.
  • cookie4cookie4 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 91 honda civic DX with approx 235,000 miles i just bought it from a lady that supposably dogged it out pretty bad. at first i noticed when its in a high rev it blows out a bluish grey smoke and it sometimes back fires when in around 2nd or 3rd gear. i just got it about 3 weeks ago and i have drove it about 30 miles trying to figure out why it overheats after 10 minutes, wont start after 10 minutes of driving, engine knocks, and sometimes in 1st gear the power just is lost when u floor it. today i was checking the fluids in the car because supposably the women that sold it to me said everything was takin care of engine wise(it runs great)....turns out it has rust in the radiator no water...quart low on oil... and no oil change since 03'. we put tap water in the raditoer cleaned the radiator return out and filled up the oil because its only been sittin not runned so the old oil is still good i think. i runned it and less bluish smoke came out but the temp gauge didnt seem to work right and eventually it overheated again and then we popped the radiator cap off and it was boiling but the temp gauge was still down, is my engine done for, new radiator? timing ? maybe no tempature gauge? i am clueless plz help!!!!!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Oh My Gosh..........I just watched Jeff Foxworthy.....You might be a redneck if....

    " new radiator? timing ? maybe no tempature gauge? "

    How about a new car?
  • cookie4cookie4 Member Posts: 2
    haha
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I also say get the battery replaced. Don't forget to write down your radio presets before taking it in. Trust me, if you were driving an American heap, the dealer would never check the battery at any service interval with a voltmeter before it failed. You'd be on a hook.

    Sure, your dealer wants to make a few bucks, but I found they also want to keep their customers happy, because that means repeat business and future product sales. It also means no angry customers a month later coming in on a tow truck for a dead battery. Personally, I think you have a good dealer. Pay to get this done while it still starts.

    As for the rest, you be the judge. Oil on the ground is a dead giveaway you've got a problem. Make sure to keep an eye on your oil level. If the engine is not losing any oil and the leak is extremely minor, you can let it go for awhile. As for the bushing, I'd be more concerned about that. Bad signs are usually uneven tire wear, vibrations, or the vehicle doesn't "ride" like it used to. Then again, it could minor and last a good deal longer.

    If your past experiences with this dealer have been impeccable and you can afford to have the work done, then by all means go for it. But get the battery replaced no matter what else you decide about the other work.

    As for the HOST'S newspaper recommendation, I'd avoid it. It's a fire hazard. One gust of wind causing the newpaper to touch anything close to a HOT exhaust or for whatever reason causing the newspaper to attach itself to the vehicle is asking for trouble.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    fair enough....heavy piece of cardboard then.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like all your running problem are related to very intense overheating. Is the electrical cooling fan working? If there's no water in the cooling system the temp gauge isn't going to read---it can't read steam in other words.

    If the fan is working properly, you might replace the thermostat (probably all gunked up anyway), and if those two things dont' do it you have to dig deeper and pull out the radiator and have it cleaned out. It's probably a mess.

    If you see WHITE smoke coming out of the exhaust, like steam, then you have a bad head gasket and that sounds like the end of this car. But if not, you might be able to save it doing the other things I mentioned.
  • caridiot2caridiot2 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter's 99 Honda Civic was over heating, it doesn't look like the radiator fans are working. Is that an expensive repair. :cry:

    Thanks for any help offered.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    depends on whether it is only the sensors that read the temperature, the relays that work the system or the fan motor itself. Probably the biggest expense will be the proper diagnosis, but figure one hour to figure it out plus parts and not too much labor.....at best, under $100, and worst a couple hundred bucks?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    i have a 91 honda civic DX with approx 235,000 miles i just bought it from a lady that supposably dogged it out pretty bad. at first i noticed when its in a high rev it blows out a bluish grey smoke and it sometimes back fires when in around 2nd or 3rd gear. i just got it about 3 weeks ago and i have drove it about 30 miles trying to figure out why it overheats after 10 minutes, wont start after 10 minutes of driving, engine knocks, and sometimes in 1st gear the power just is lost when u floor it. today i was checking the fluids in the car because supposably the women that sold it to me said everything was takin care of engine wise(it runs great)....turns out it has rust in the radiator no water...quart low on oil... and no oil change since 03'. we put tap water in the raditoer cleaned the radiator return out and filled up the oil because its only been sittin not runned so the old oil is still good i think. i runned it and less bluish smoke came out but the temp gauge didnt seem to work right and eventually it overheated again and then we popped the radiator cap off and it was boiling but the temp gauge was still down, is my engine done for, new radiator? timing ? maybe no tempature gauge? i am clueless plz help!!!!!

    I hope you didn't pay more than $25 for the car, because this is what a junk yard will give you for it.

    Did you check al those items prior to buying? Or did you just hand over the money and took the car? It sounds like something a 16 year old would do.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Fortunately all of us here were very smart when we were young :P
  • theracoontheracoon Member Posts: 666
    My significant other has a 2002 Civic Couple LX with over 30,000 miles. No problems with the window regulators.

    I agree with blueiedgod's post. Contact Honda corporate.
  • sciurussciurus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Civic LX and when I had it smogged recently it passed but they found a crack in the exhaust manifold. Every Honda shop I've talked to wants $800 - $850 to replace the manifold. This seems pretty extreme to me. I know the cat is in the exhaust manifold but dear god... Can anyone recommend a parts house that may carry the manifold with cat?? Every place I've checked only has the performance headers, etc for EX/SI and not the manifold/cat combo for the LX.
  • webofspidywebofspidy Member Posts: 1
    1989 Honda Civic DX 1.5L (5sp, 240K) My car stalls when I press the A/C button while idling. If I just turn on the fan there is no problem, it only occurs when the fan and A/C are on together. Also, I noticed that if I downshift when traveling at least say 20 MPH, the car does not stall. One last thing, almost every morning when I drive to work, when I get about 3 miles from the house the yellow check engine light comes on for a second or 2, the car tries to stall, but since it's a standard, I can keep it going. The check engine light doesn't come on anymore. The error code had to do with Fuel Injectors. I think it was 16 flashes for Fuel injector circuit. Thanks for any help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    DId you click on H&A ad at the top of this page?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Dorman makes one:

    http://motormitedormancatalog.com/item.wws?sku=674-439&mfr=Dorman (OE Solutions)&cooki- - eID=1LX0CPY4G1LX0CQNJS&drillid=12&clientid=motormitedorman&clientid=motormitedorman
  • dhessdhess Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Civic EX Coupe, with 139,000 miles on and yesterday I noticed a problem with my drivers door. In order for me to open the door. If I use the power door switch the door lock doesn't move. I have to move the door lock manual and open the door with the handle on the outside of the car then close the door, lock the car again with the door lock then open the door with the inside handle. I have to hold the door lock unlocked before I can open the door from inside the car. The passenger door works fine.. It doesn't seem like a electrical problem cause the power windows and the passenger door works fine. Has anyone seen this problem before? Will this be an expensive fix. I need to get this fixed soon as I am selling the car to buy a 2005 Odessey.

    Help,

    Dan in PA
    :sick:
  • kobraqkobraq Member Posts: 1
    I have a '91 honda civic LX 4-door with 200k+ miles. For the most part it has been fairly reliable but in the last year I have had some issues. The main one was overheating due to a bad radiator that may have caused a head gasket leak. Not wanting to invest much more money in this (Just spent ~$1000 to get new air put in last summer) I used K$W Permanent Block seal after I noticed moisture in the exhaust and hard starts. It seemed to correct the problem at least for now. There never was any mixing of oil/radiator fluid and there is no moisture in the exhaust.

    I'm not thinking that this has to do with the problem I am having now, but wanted to give the back story.

    Because of all of that and the rough running I changed all plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap. It has been running very well for the last three months.

    A couple of weeks ago I drove about 250 miles round trip and before I filled up I decided to put in a bottle of STP injector cleaner since I would be going through a tank of gas.

    I was worried about driving it because of the mileage and recent problems, but the vehicle performed great. After I got home and the tank got close to empty, I noticed a little bucking at a stop sign on my way to put in more fuel.

    Assuming a "hiccup" with the car I drove it to my fathers and on the way there it got progressively worse. I would have to throw it into neutral at stop sighs and really give it the gas on take off to keep it from "bottoming out" on takeoff. It would lose major power on hills

    I have replaced the fuel filter and plugs and wires again assuming maybe one of the recent repairs or the fuel injector cleaner may have been involved. I've disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pump seems to have no problem with it's initial "ignition on" squirts of fuel.

    The weird thing is in the morning I can start it and it seems to run and idle ok for a few blocks and then starts to sputter at idle, and die under transmission load. This is consistent. I can drive around the block a couple of times and it appears to have cleared (got me into trouble taking it to work on one day) and then start bucking, almost like it has to do with engine heating up, or pressures building.

    I still can't figure out fuel or fire as the cause though. Some are recommending fuel pump but I'd hate to drop the tank and put out the expense for something that may not fix it. Any best guess cheap things to try first would be appreciated.

    FYI - i removed the plugs to inspect them and they appear fine with a light tan burn and no fouling.

    Any help appreciated. I'd love to fix this without having to replace half the vehicle components. Hehe
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 99 Civic LX and when I had it smogged recently it passed but they found a crack in the exhaust manifold. Every Honda shop I've talked to wants $800 - $850 to replace the manifold. This seems pretty extreme to me. I know the cat is in the exhaust manifold but dear god... Can anyone recommend a parts house that may carry the manifold with cat?? Every place I've checked only has the performance headers, etc for EX/SI and not the manifold/cat combo for the LX.

    If the Civic has less than 80K miles, the manifold is still covered under the 8 tear/80,000 mile warranty, and should be covered. IF you are over the miles, try the online parts dealers, such as:

    Site sponsor HandA They are on the west coast.
    On the east coast, Northeast particularly, try Fair Honda in Danbury, CT

    Neither has the parts you are looking for listed on the site, but give them a call.
  • chickensoupchickensoup Member Posts: 4
    The low exterior maintainance required of my 2000 Accord is something I greatly appreciate. I can be lax about cleaning off bird droppings in between car washes (which is a period of weeks), without causing any harm to the paint. Who has the time to inspect & do spot cleaning every time the car has been out of the garage?

    I'm thinking of purchasing a new Civic now. What are people's experiences with the paint durability of recent year model Honda's? Does anyone know whether Honda is still using the same types of paint & finishing processes as they were 5 years ago?
  • burk1burk1 Member Posts: 5
    I'm looking for an aftermarket catback exhaust for a 92 honda civic si any suggestion on a good brand at a decent price
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Nice language. I'm surprised our gracious hosts haven't deleted your post yet.
  • quinn1quinn1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88 civic that I just acquired with 200g mile and it runs great. After warmup, it will rev up between 1000 and 1500 rpm at idle. I've seen this problem posted in the forum before but could not see any replies to this problem. Does anyone know what could be wrong? It is a straight drive, 5 speed.
  • dhessdhess Member Posts: 2
    Burk1,

    Thermal Research makes a nice catback exhaust for the civic's. I used to have one on my 97 civic ex coupe.. The sound on the thermal is nice.
  • kirkvkirkv Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Civic DX (manual trans.,98,000 miles) that is losing a quart of oil every 600-700 miles.I use the Civic on a daily newspaper delivery route that is approximately 80 miles in length with 400 plus stops.Of course,this involves alot of upshifting and downshifting between stops.The car generally runs strong with just a slight loss of power noticable since I purchased it 35,000 miles ago.I am seeing no oil on the plugs,no visible oil leaks on top of or underneath the engine,and no smoke out of the tailpipe,although the inside of the tailpipe is very black and sooty.Also,I had the valves adjusted approximately 25,000 miles ago.What are some of the possible repairs I could be looking at?I know I am probably reaching,but could something as minor as the valves needing to be adjusted again cause this?Thanks so much for your time and help with this.
  • darthkendarthken Member Posts: 30
    Hi all,

    I have a 1997 Civic DX 2-door coupe with almost 49,000 miles on it. I had been scheduling maintainence based on mileage but now I'm driving it so little (5 miles/day) that I think I'll have to do it based on time.

    Got the full Honda 30,000 mile service and oil changes every 5,000 from then. I think it's probably time for a big service, including changing the timing belt. What would you recommmend I have done? e.g. I have seen some people say that if you are getting a timing belt replaced, you should get the water pump replaced too.

    Also, my dealer quoted me $620 for the timing belt alone. Does that sound reasonable? Should I try an independent garage?

    I plan to keep the car for about 2 more years.

    Thanks!
  • yvieyvie Member Posts: 2
    Any time you go to a dealer and your car is not under warranty, you're going to be paying dealer prices. Which is just another way of saying you'll be paying a heck of a lot more than an independent shop. The trick is to find a reliable independent mechanic who has been a Honda-trained mechanic and works exclusively on Honda and Acuras, or mostly Japanese brand cars.

    My Honda Civic EX coupe is also a '98. Had it seen Sept. '97 and don't have your three problems. Costco can sell you the same kind of battery for about $45.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If all you plan to do is keep your vehicle for 2 years and by projection, 10k more miles, or 60k miles total, SAVE your money!

    Gee your car is a cream puff from a mileage point of view. The only degradation you are probably experience is from LACK of use. (battery gives up the ghost due to discharge, due to non use, etc.

    Unless you torture your car while it is sitting, I would get the 100k timing belt and water pump change at that mileage interval. Dealerships offer specials at 425-550 and some independents I have checked out in great detail, charge 550. Given your time and mileage frame this is utterly a non issue for you.
  • agmdagmd Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering if anyone knows whether the CD Changer trunk wiring is in place for a 2002 Civic EX. The radio looks CD-ready as it has the CD button and functions on it.

    Can anyone recommend a changer that can be plugged with minimal wiring. I'm trying to avoid having to rip out the stock radio to install a CD changer and be able to control the changer through the radio rather than the extra control panel that goes on the dash. I'm hoping there is a changer model out there that is compatible with the pre-existing wiring in this car. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks.
  • agmdagmd Member Posts: 2
    I noticed this light came on recently and wanted to know if it's a legitimate problem with the car that I should worry about or will I end up paying $500 for someone just to reset it and turn it off? Thanks much.
  • yvieyvie Member Posts: 2
    My '98 Civic EX coupe's driver-side window stayed at half-mast one winter morning. Problem happened in the last few months of my 3-year warranty. So I asked if the passenger-side window regulating binder could also be replaced, as it had a tendency to slow in its upward progress. Not a chance, said the dealer, as it wasn't broken. Years later the passenger window still is slow to close and the mechanism has yet to fail. Also met someone with a '96 Civic, who had a similar problem. But her dealer said, Uh-uh-uh. Not under warranty. Cost ya $250, lady, to replace.

    If you check the NHSTA (or whatever its initials), which I did once, you'll see a listing of recalls and non-recalls for the Honda Civic. I think the window binding problem is listed, but as a non-warranty problem.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    agmd,

    Without seeing your vehicle, how can you expect anyone on this forum to diagnose specifically why your Maintenance Required Light came on? You must take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic who has the electronic tool to read the computer codes.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    The Maintenance Required Light is covered in your owners manual, including how to reset it yourself if you are so inclined. Generally it is a reminder that some type of periodic maintenance is recommended. Your owner's manual will also cover what items need to be replaced, inspected or adjusted at various intervals.

    If your vehicle is new (even if not new, but "new to you") and you are unfamiliar with the concept of periodic maintenance or the significance of other dashboard indicators, you might want to open the owner's manual and read it. Doing so can help you learn a lot, and in the process save a lot of money: preparing you to detect possible problems and helping you avoid others during your car ownership.

    The Maintenance Required Light is different from the Check Engine Light. ;)

    If your vehicle is used, and there is no owner's manual, I'd contact Honda to purchase one, or see if I could purchase one online from someone. Its a document worth every penny to replace it (several times over) if you don't have one.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I don't know what effect using engine compression for braking assistance has on oil consumption. I imagine there may be some contribution to oil consumption there.

    however, have you ever changed your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve? it's pretty inexpensive to replace (some people even clean and re-install theirs), and if stuck, can contribute to oil consumption.

    do a google search on:
    +PCV +"oil consumption"

    that's where i'd start.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    While I know engine compression is used all the time, it is better to NOT use engine compression, as a practice for braking assistance. The engine was not designed to assist in braking, such as tractor trailer diesel rig. In deed if you miss a downshift there is no downshift rev limiter. You can over rev the engine easier than you can on a rev limiter upshift.

    Worst case: brake pads and rotors are far cheaper than a manual or automatic transmission.
  • darthkendarthken Member Posts: 30
    Thanks ruking1. So just to be clear: you don't think the age of the timing belt will put it at risk of failure? I've heard the results can be pretty bad if it does break, and that age has some effect (e.g. causes the material to weaken somehow). That said, it would be great if I didn't need to shell out the $$ to have it changed!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    What does your owner's manual say? That should have both the time and mileage limits that tell you when to change the timing belt.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Correct. I base that on the techical data that comes on Honda's web site, owners manual and shop manual. Age and operation and sometimes bad or good luck can and does have some effect. Again one of the checklist items (technical data) is to actually inspect the timing belt. Yes it can be pretty bad if it does break down.
  • rjc5rjc5 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    I just bought a 05 Civic LX and took it home and noticed that there is no DOOR OPEN/AJAR dash board indicator . Also there is no warning if the passenger side seatbelt is off. Any idea if this is standard for the model? This looks like a safety hazard if there is no warning when the door is open. Haven't seen a car without it which I think is a standard safety feature in all recent cars.. The car does not have an alarm installed if that has anything to do with it. I am feeling really bad about this. Wonder if there is any way possible I can "return" the car :( and get the money back. I financed it.Except for these problems the car is great.

    TIA for the inputs and suggestions.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    there is no small mimic showing the state of the doors and the trunk?
  • rjc5rjc5 Member Posts: 11
    No, Haven't seen anything yet. I am going to try again

    Thanks!
  • nolensnolens Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 1999 Honda Civic EX with 56K miles. I have the same electrical problem you described. In fact at one point, smoke started coming out of the steering wheel column, that's when I brought the car in to the dealership. They tell me it's because I have after market alarm system. I don't believe that, I've had that alarm system in since I purchased the car new back in 99'. I don't know what the real problem is or was but I'm being charged about $1,000 to fix it.
  • scott35scott35 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how I can unjam the parking brake on my 2003 Civic DX? I left it sitting in the driveway for about a month and now the parking brake won't release even when I put the lever down.
  • grumpy26grumpy26 Member Posts: 2
    After opening the trunk lid with the key, the lid wont latch. After trying to repair, and removing the electrical connector from the latch, the trunk open icon on the dash stays on even when the connector is plugged in. I still cant get the trunk lid to lock.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can probably jack the car up, block it safely with good jackstands, and tap it free with a hammer at the place where the cables split to both wheels.
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