Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you purchased a new car in the last year and had it delivered to your home/office from a dealership? If so, a reporter would like to talk to you about it. Please reach out to [email protected] by end of day Sunday, December 9, and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.
If you experience loading issues with the login/register form, please completely disable ad blocker or use an incognito or in-private window to log in.

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Anyone have instructions or a diagram on how to replace the power mirror on a 2005 Civic LX coupe? Also, what websites would be good for ordering one?
  • chrisducatichrisducati Posts: 394
    Sounds like Valve lash adjusters for the ticking or maybe a worn cam. As for the window try spraying silicon spray lubricant down the rubber channel that the window rides in. It may be just such a dry tight fit that the motor is having a hard time raising the window.
  • I have the same problem and I highly doubt it's low coolant. My honda is also a 98 but it's an EX and I get the car checked regularly (oil, filter, fluids). My mechanic did two engine diagnostics tests and couldn't find the problem but suggested I get a new distributor cap. I have no idea if this will solve the problem. Another thing is that I changed to gas cap (per manual) and still has the same problem. Sometimes the light goes off and comes back on again. Hope this helps.
  • 91honda9591honda95 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 civic that has 170,000 miles on it, the car is very clean, I am the 2nd owner and have been having some problems with hesitation or loping/skipping on acceleration. The car has been running smoothly at highway cruising but it does skip when it idles.

    I have replaced the sparkplugs and the distributor cap. It helped for a little while but the problem is definately still there.

    Is it possible that the distributor is bad, if so how do you test it? also the plug wires... Would it be a good idea to replace the fuel filter?

    Please help, I cannot afford to replace all of these parts...
  • jimmyhjimmyh Posts: 1
    My son's 2001 Honda Civic has in instrument panel that goes completely dead at times. It has done this twice in the last six months. The first time it lasted for only a few minutes.

    The panel was completely dead, gauges would not work, fuel indicated empty, temp gauge stayed at Cold, no tach rpms, no speedometer, no shift indcator for the trans, no odometer.

    The last time it did this (two days ago) was for about 20 miles of stop, restart, errand running over about 3 hours. After sitting overnight in my garage the next day, it works fine. This happened during the day, so I cannot tell if the panel lights were working.

    I have not had it to a mechanic, as it will not go dead when it goes to the shop?

    A service advisor told me he thought it might not be getting a feed from the ignition switch, so he told me to jiggle the ignition key.

    Any other thoughts?
  • chrisducatichrisducati Posts: 394
    Plug wires?
  • chrisducatichrisducati Posts: 394
    I have never seen this on a Honda but I have seen it so many times I have lost count on Chrysler products. I have seen it twice on Nissans. Each time it is the circuit board in the gauge module. It may be the connection to the power supply where the module connects to the wire harness. The whole cluster has to be replaced on Chrysler cars. Expensive. You might find one in a junk yard. Just my thoughts.
  • litezoutlitezout Posts: 4
    I have a 95 Civic also. I made it to 205,000 miles before the engine blew. 2 bad cylinders. I replaced the engine and it was running good for a while and started doing the same thing you're describing. You might want to start with changing the fuel filter. When was the last time you changed it? Also, you might have dirty fuel injectors. Try a fuel additive to clean the injectors before you think about replacing them. That's what I did and the problem went away.
  • suzanmsuzanm Posts: 1
    HELP!! the honda dealership tells me that noise is due to the brake pads requiring replacement (apparenly the braking system is some kind of floating calipre, whatever that means), which should occur at around 16,000 km....i have 35,000 kms on this 3.5 year old car and I have heard that annoying noise for 3 years now. It only happens when I reverse and go foward and brake for the first time ...thereafter, the noise does not occur unless i do this again. Another mechanic told me its the front brake pads and discs which need to be replaced and yet another told me it is coming from the tranmission. The Honda dealership is telling me from a safety standpoint, its fine...the brake pads should be replaced at 70,000 km and then the noise should go away, but, killer part will come back. It is very loud. I think because I am a female, they are not taking me seriously and I don't know what to do. I plan on buying out this car this november..i have an extended warranty and I am hoping they will fix the problem. I mentioned this problem to them when I had the car for only 1 year and at that point, they told me that noise was "normal"..I don't think it is and they just don't want to fix the problem...HELP, please, I would appreciate it.


    A Honda customer who is thorougly disappointed.
  • kgbean00kgbean00 Posts: 6
    i have 2 problems i need help with. one is a bit more important than the others (both apply to my 02 civic lx coupe)...

    problem #1: my air conditioning is leaking water inside of my car instead of outside. the water is leaking onto the passenger floor in the front seat. whenever i make a left turn, my blower almost completely stops, there's a slight screeching sound, and water pours out. my father said it might be a blocked or unconnected hose. either way, its slightly annoying because after a long trip with the a/c on (my car is black and its been too hot to drive without it on) the floor is completely saturated. does anyone know what this problem could be?

    problem #2: i bought the car used and about a month after i had it, the in-dash cd changer stopped working. right now, i have 4 cds inside that it wont give back! when i push the cd button, the screen flashes ERR and it wont load any of the disks. i asked honda about it and they said they would have to take it out and look at it (for the low low price of $99). i'm not sure if its worth paying them the money to have them tell me something i already know. my options are to just get a new cd changer (i found one online for a reasonable price) or to pay the diagnostic price and cross my fingers that its something minor that isn't costly to fix. what does everyone suggest?

  • gld123gld123 Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Honda Civic with 240,000 miles. I am having a problem when the weather is warm ONLY. When I am stopped (at idle) the car dies out. I had a 1989 Civic that had the same problem. There was some SENSOR that needed to be replaced. I can't remember which sensor it was. :confuse: It did fix the problem. Any advice?
  • jtbakerjtbaker Posts: 1
    I've noticed a high metalic tapping noise when I start the car and for the first few minutes, and have noticed a little power loss. Just hit 100,000 miles. Have kept perfect service of the car. Had the transmission replaced (by the dealer) when it locked up at 76,000 miles. I have been using 5w20 Synthetic oil and noticed no problems until 2 weeks ago. I have no idea what to start with, any help would be appreciated.
  • dash400mdash400m Posts: 55
    Calling Auburn63... Are you out there? Sorry, but I haven't posted for years!

    Auburn63 and/or Others: The AC compressor on my '85 finally died. It's time to throw in a new system that will include at the minimum a new compressor; I don't know about the condenser, evaporator or any other ancillary parts. Additionally, there will be some sort of conversion kit for the Freon (or whatever the new chemical is called).

    Honda of America still has a couple of parts in their inventory -- both Keihin and Sanden. A local Honda dealer will do the installation.

    My Questions to the Outside World:

    (1) Is there a preference to Keihin or Sanden with respect to the compressor and condensor?

    (2) Are there any other considerations worth mentioning with respect to other parts, including the conversion kit?

    Thanks in advance.

  • dracedrace Posts: 1
    When I turn the key I get a clacking sound and the car won't start at all. My lights do studder a bit. I was told it might be a battery problem. Is it possible it might be something else? And if it is the battery, would a boost help me at least turn it on? Earlier today I was bumped from behind by another car but it wasn't much just a slight shove. Could it just be a coincidence?
  • cracholcrachol Posts: 1
    Hi Jimmy,

    I have the exact same problem on my 2004 Civic. I took the car to the dealer b/c I was suckered into the extended manufacturer's warranty and thought this was a covered item. I was told that the problem was with some sort of gauge module, which wasn't covered on the warranty afterall, and would cost me $750 to fix. I'm not at all handy with cars and wouldn't be able to fix it myself. I'm in MI and was told that the part needed to be ordered from the west coast and so now out of a car for 7+ days (!) and broke. Sorry to not be of much technical help, but good luck in finding a solution that works for you....
  • Check your battery connections. Check the battery voltage. If the voltage is above 12.5vdc it's connections. If below 12vdc it's the battery. Of coures if it is below 12.25 you are talking a battery on it's way out or discharged. Automotive batteries should not be allowed to go down in voltage. It ruins them. This can happen by disuse or cranking the engine over without running. I suspect a weak battery and if so a jump will help. It doesn't hurt to tune it up. It will help starting. The less time it takes to start the car the longer the battery will last. Good luck.
  • fdh3fdh3 Posts: 2
    recently changed the oil on a 2002civic,can anyone help me reset this light?
  • rockyteerockytee Posts: 35
    Host, would it be possible to start a separate posting for the 2006 Civic, since this is a brand new car
  • iammoonieiammoonie Posts: 2
    I recently had a dead battery in my 2002 civic and I purchased another one changed it and now my radio gets no power, my mileage counter will not stay on a trip meter once the car engine is shut off it jumps back to the mileage of the car and finally the power lock does not work unless the car door is shut and the car is running..... any help is much gladly needed!!!! :confuse:
  • iammoonieiammoonie Posts: 2
    Which light the blinking maintanance light? All you have to do if this is the light is hold down the mileage counter and turn on the key to the second stop while holding the button and keep holding and it will go away. :)
  • fdh3fdh3 Posts: 2
    >Problem solved
  • jkrummjkrumm Posts: 3
    We have a 2006 LX, and have had several problems. We just had the driver's side window fixed (installed a new, less tight rubber seal so it could close) and then had the driver's door-lock mechanism replaced for the second time after the alarm system kept arming itself. It got annoying just opening the door and having the alarm go off. My wife had the car just shut off one day when using the cruise control. Everything shut down, she pulled to the side of the highway, and then restarted. It hasn't done it since then.

    Finally, and worst of all, in snowy conditions this car has the loosest, most squirrely rear end I've ever felt in a car. It gets a little better with studded tires, but it's still very bad. Feels like the car's going to swing off the road (though it hasn't so far). I think the suspenion pulls to the side a bit in back at speed over bumps, and that translates into a very bad feeling in snow.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Posts: 813
    six months after we got out 2005 civic the rubber stripping on the top on the inside of the drivers door corner detached and starting ripping. Every time the door was opened the rubber would pull out and we had to push it back in or we could not close the door. The dealer replaced it under warranty. It is starting to do it again. any suggestions would be helpful
  • dchoustndchoustn Posts: 1

    i have a 1988 honda civic and i have a similar problem. It has 182,000 miles and when it's hot and the sun has been shining on my car it doesn't won't to crank. When i park in the shade, i have no trouble cranking. Can you help me?
  • jims63139jims63139 Posts: 31
    If car has electric fuel pump, could be a bad fuel pump relay. Had similar prob on my '93 Accord, fuel pump relay replacement fixed problem. ;)
  • doan4udoan4u Posts: 105
    My parent own a Honda Accord 93. It have the same problems. The battery was dead. I spend half a day taking the new batteries back and forth, 3 time to the auto part. The thing I found out it was electric fuse that have blown out too. so, check you fuse box to make sure the copper line is not melt away.
  • spdj20spdj20 Posts: 7
    I think Honda may have a defect on their hands. Does anyone else with a 06 Civic have an issue with the A/C taking forever to get cold. On a hot day it takes about 15-25 min for my A/C to turn ice cold. My 02 explorer only use to take about 5 min if that. I went to the dealer to have it checked out, and I tried out another car and it did the same thing. Also does anyone notice that the A/C cuts in and out. I'll be driving along and can feel it do this every min or so, very distracting, anyone having these same issues?
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    It is normal for the A/C clutch to engage and disengage often with the A/C or defrost on especially when the car is new. My 06 Mustang GT does this as well. My parents just purchased the new civic and I have not noticed the A/C taking a long time to get cold but I will check again and get back to you.

    2006 Mustang GT
    382 HP
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    It cools down much quicker if you have it on "recirculate" rather than the "vent". What you're experiencing is a common complaint of Hondas in general.
  • perezrperezr Posts: 7
    When test driving the '06 Civic Sedan, I noticed that the air-conditioning did a great job and pulled the temperature down very quickly. The salesman mentioned that you'll never notice a power loss when running the A/C on the new Civics. I asked him if it was magic and he said yes! Oh brother!

    What it does do is disengage the A/C compressor clutch when accelerating. This gives you full power, but the air will warm up a bit when this happens. I'm not sure if there is a threshold for this, but you may want to experiment with a more gentle acceleration to see if this helps.

    Regular cycling of the A/C compressor is normal, but does seem a bit more noticeable in the Civic, via the temperature of the blowing air, than I've felt in other cars. I'm adjusting to it, so not really a big deal to me and we've had some 97-degree days already.

    Otherwise, here are a couple of helpful tips that may improve your experience.

    -As has been stated, it is crucial that you use the Max A/C mode for the initial cool down. This allows the system to draw the heat out of the vehicle itself and not waste time cooling new, outside air all of the time. You must also place the fan on it's highest setting as cold air is thicker and takes considerably more power to move than warm air does.

    -It's also important to have the air-flow aimed directly at you. The air should be flowing across your face and upper torso. This will greatly increase your perception of coolness. If you're waiting for the surrounding air (not moving across your body) to take the heat from you, it will take much longer to feel cool.

    -If you can, always park so that the nose of the car will be out of the sun, especially the afternoon sun, as heat will soak into the engine and A/C components and it will take a little longer for them to cool down and operate efficiently as well.

    It's all rather a personal thing, how cool we feel, but I don't think there are any systemic problems with the Civic's A/C. Your comparison test at least tells you that yours has a very high likelihood of functioning correctly as the odds of two in a row being bad are pretty low. However, if you're still unsure, ask to drive one more and see how it feels to you.
This discussion has been closed.