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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • johnnypicjohnnypic Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1993 Civic EX coupe and I've been getting really bad gas mileage. About 19 miles to the gallon. It's all city mmileage. I only havr 59,500 on the odometer. I did add some after market upgrades. A new exhaust with 2 inch piping from the cat. A K&N air intake. Is there anything I can do to improve mileage? I'm using regular gas 87 octone. I'm about ready to do the timing belt and water pump thing. I have to save some more money :)

    Thanks
  • ratboy3ratboy3 Member Posts: 324
    Just looking for information for a friend about her Civic. I noticed the other day that the AC took forever to blow cold air. I asked her about it and she said she was told by her service people at her dealership that this is normal for the Civic. Is this true?

    I believe it is a 1999 model.

    We got to where we were going and barely cold air was blowing by then.

    Thanks.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Please help! I have a 1988 Honda Civic with 51k miles. It is a 1.5L with automatic trans. When this car is driven with the A/C on the temp goes into the red unless the heater is put on high.

    I have changed the thermostat and flushed the system. The car still overheats. The passages in the radiator look clean. This car has had regular service and has not been neglected. Any idea on what is wrong? Would a bad head gasket make the car overheat? If so, how?

    By the way, I had 92 Accord that started to do the same thing. I replaced the thermostat, water pump, and flushed the system. None of this fixed the problem; I had to sell the car.

    My Honda days maybe over! I love the way they drive but I have had problems with them and they are not cheap to fix.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Sorry for the second post, just wanted to add the both cooling fans are operating in post 634.
    Thanks for any help.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    to me. Have you owned the cars since they were new?
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    They have been in the family since new, along with Toyotas and GMs. I have done the maint on these cars, execpt timing belts on the Hondas. We have are own shop (farm).

    If I had to pick a manufacture it would be Toyota for the least problems. GMs are cheapest to fix. The Hondas had problems I think are uncaled for, but would not show up unless you kept the car for a long time. All the CV joint boots in the Hondas went bad after about 6 years.

    We have never repalced a GM CV joint boot, they are made out of a plastic material, not rubber like Honda. The Accord had to have the roof repainted under warrenty and the paint in general did not hold up well.

    Believe it or not, the Hondas cost the most to own. The GMs had the most problems when new, then stood the test time very well. The Toyotas have been just excellent.

    Back to the Civic, how does a bad head gasket cause an overheat condition? We have never had a head gasket go on the GMs or Toyotas. Increasing RPMs when the temp is rising just makes it overheat faster. Coolant has had to be added to both the Accord and Civic. The engine has not been run in the red zone, if you turn on the heat on full it is possible to drive the car and the temp goes back down.
  • brorjacebrorjace Member Posts: 588
    Johnny, When you have a sudden decrease in mileage, make sure to check to see if your breaks aren't stuck. Check the inside pads at each wheel. The smell of burning friction material is a good sign of this. Also, your O2 sensor might be bad. I added an aftermarket intake and exhaust on my '95 Civic Coupe and it didn't effect my mileage at all.

    abc246, when replacing thermostats, be sure it's an OEM thermostat. Some aftermarket ones won't quite work. Also, if you haven't replaced your water pump when you did your timing belt, you should. Another thing to remember is that use of normal anti-freeze is harmful to Honda cooling systems. Other manufacturers are adopting these particulate-free formulas now but for Hondas, they are a must and have been for years.

    Yes, head gasket leaks cause overheating. It happened to my brother's 350 Chevy pick-up.

    I've had my '95 Civic since new and with 103K miles on the clock, the only thing I've replaced is the timing belt and water pump ($400). A minor, fan-speed electrical component was replaced under warranty a few years ago.

    I don't like the brand new Civics but I'm considering an Acura RSX in the next year or so ... either that or a Celica GTS.
  • massagemassage Member Posts: 7
    hi folks how expensive and can it be done to put in a/c .?(I can obtain a 92 that was hit in the rear cheap) I have a 92 civic dx Are the heating core the same with or without a/c or would I just have to get a compressor? thanks for the help
  • brorjacebrorjace Member Posts: 588
    Massage, I think for all that generation Civics, A/C was a dealer-installed option on the cars that didn't come with it so it SHOULD just be a matter of the compressor, hoses, brackets, a belt and a switch.

    --- Bror Jace
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I wanted to used a Honda thermostat but Honda was not open when I started having problems. I used (I think) a Stant or something from Pep Boys. It was clearly not made as good as the Hondas, but since the problem started before I replaced it ruled that out.

    What brand of anti-freeze should I used. Our newer GMs use Dex-cool. Is that OK? It is orange color. I did not know about this and used reg anti-freeze in the Hondas. The GMs have a sticker under the hood recommending a type of anti-freeze.

    I did the water pumps when I had both timing belts replaced. It was about $400 each :-(

    Now the Civic overheats with the A/C off during highway driving (both cooling fans on). It kills me because this is a low mileage, well cared for car.

    The older damm GM cars are still going strong (91 DeVille-155K, 92 Bonneville-135k, 88 Chevv truck-165k). They all had A/C problems, but no engine problems nor transmission nor axles nor timing belts. I still am a Honda fan. They drive GREAT!
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    Hi,
    this is to anyone experiencing the same problems or knows someone who is experiencing the same problems as i am:
    i have owned a 2001 civic ex coupe for approximately two months and have had to refill the power steering fluid twice, the car is to the point that the steering wheel takes extra effort to turn as it is much stiffer than normally. I would like to know if anyone is having the same problems or similar to me and what you have done to remedy the situation. Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    No air conditioning system can function without a condenser, evaporator core, receiver/dryer, and control assembly. The compressor is just one of the components, the heater core has nothing to do with it, and you'll probably require a different heater core/evaporator core housing. If a like vehicle with A/C is available, the components can be obtained from it but it's a time-consuming job.
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    I forgot to mention that instead of the standard equipment tires and wheels, i have special dealer installed 17" tires and wheels that i think may be the root of the problem. If anyone knows if the tires and wheels may be indirectly at fault here, please say so. I think that the wheels may be too large for a Civic and figured they might be the reason the steering wheel is screwing up. I also forgot to mention that the steering wheel is incorrectly alligned to the road, as in the wheel is not straight when the vehicle is plowing straight, also the wheel vibrates heavily at high speeds, which i think may also be because of the wheels.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    get your car to the shop quick. Are all the tires/wheels the same size?
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    I am taking it into the dealer for repair tomorrow and am going to see what they say about the problems. Yes, all the tires and wheels are the same size. Isn't it pretty ridiculous to be having these kinds of problemns with a brand new car, a Honda at that. I mean my sister purchased a brand new Grand Am in 99 and has had two perfect years with the car
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    That are the same size/offset don't knock the alignment off. Was your car running correctly before you changed the wheels? Why blame the car if your modification messed it up?
  • misstazmisstaz Member Posts: 1
    I was just told by the Honda Dealer that my 2000 CIVIC EX COUPE has warped rotors. My car only has 15,000 miles and one would think that there wouldn't be problems w/ the brakes already. I do not have a "lead" foot, either. The service technician told me that since the government has banned the use of asbestos in brake parts, the government is the one to blame for the cheaper quality. Sounds ridiculous, huh? Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so, was it covered under your warranty?
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    i don't know if the car was running correcly before i changed the wheels, because i didn't change them. I bought the car as is with the 17" alloy wheels as part of the package, it is a sharp looking little car and i fell inlove with it primarily because of the wheels. So, i am blaming the car because up until a few weeks ago when i first got it it was running fine, i am not sure if the modification hurt the car but i suspect it may have. Another quick question to anyone who knows the answer, when a dealer who performs a swap like this and puts new tires and wheels on a car aren't they supposed to give the tires/wheels that came as original equipment on the car as well? Thanks
  • carguy62carguy62 Member Posts: 545
    You said you don't like the '01 Civic but are considering an RSX. You do know that the RSX is from the same global platform as the Civic and has a similar suspension set-up, don't you? I know there are other differences (the type S RSX especially) but to me they look like the same car.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    Let's work with what you have. If you didn't test the car with the standard wheels then you don't have a baseline (which you put yourself in). Normally, yes, they should give you back the old wheels. By the way, is this a BRAND NEW car? 17s would break warranty, unless you signed a release (or is this USED and AS IS). There are other variables... if they WERE "running fine", did you hit a pothole thereafter? Suspension damage from your 17s isn't warranty covered.
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    I am taking in the car today to the Honda dealer for repair and will report what happened if anyone is interested. To gasguzz: it is a brand new car, what i meant by "as is" was that i took the car with the wheels and tires. I can't remember if i signed a release, but i will check to see. The pothole thing: i honestly don't know for sure, but do you truly believe that hitting a pothole would cause the kinds of problems i am experiencing, especially with the power steering fluid. Hopefully warranty covers it, but i will know soon enough. Thanks again.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    knock the suspension out of alignment especially with 17's since they have no "cushion" to shield the suspension from the full brunt of an impact.
    And if there is a loose fitting in the power steering the higher pressures needed to turn the larger contact patches would cause a leak in the system.
  • cnwangcnwang Member Posts: 1
    My '98 civic just failed emissions two months after the 3/36 period expired. The cause was a high CO level. Is this covered under warrantee?
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Unfortunately, rotor warpage does occur fairly often at low mileage. While it is more likely if the driver often brakes heavily, driving style is not always the cause. Driving through a puddle of water when the brakes are very hot can accelerate this problem. Also, because "curing" of the cast iron brake rotors is a delicate process during manufacturing, quite a few will simply warp with age. While this is true for many brands of cars, it is very unlikely that a dealer will accept responsibility for machining or replacing rotors. It is true that the elimination of asbestos in brake pads/linings made it more difficult to obtain good braking characteristics and brake lining durability. However, the asbestos has been gone for more than ten years and much brake-material development work has been done during that time. While your technician is correct, his remarks are somewhat out of date because today's brake pads and shoes hold up rather well.
  • justfind6justfind6 Member Posts: 30
    As far as I know, all manufacturers must warranty the emissions system for 100,000 miles.
    Your problem may be just a PCV (Pollution Control Valve) problem, which is cheap to replace.
    If it's the catalytic converter, it should be covered.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    All manufacturers know that every component SHOULD last for 36k (eg: the 3/36k warranty). I had a (non-Honda) car that routinely warped rotors at 12k (DEFNITELY a flaw being the wife's car), and they were replaced under full warranty. The argument is that under NORMAL (and hard braking) use the rotors should hold - BEFORE the 36k bumper-to-bumper. Unless the dealer can explicitly prove abuse (ex: flat-spots on your tires from severe braking), you are driving NORMALLY (of which the entire car is covered).
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    There could be several reasons why the increase in steering effort - the wider wheel offset, wider wheel/tire or increased rolling resistance. However, these shouldn't normally cause leaks. It is unclear from your post how you "refilled" the reservoir (was it a significant amount). If your car was delivered with 2 miles on the clock, it is not unusual for the PS reservoir to dip some 1/8" (but it shouldn't dip half the reservoir's volume).
  • spider12spider12 Member Posts: 1
    I need help! I have a 97 Honda Civic and I'm having problems with my air. Hopefully this will sound familiar to someone...When I drive my car on the expressway with the air running for about 2 hours, approx. 70 MPH, the air stops working. It sounds like it's blowing but nothing is coming out. I have taken it to two dealerships so far and they haven't been able to fix it. I recently went directly to the dealer after an extensive road trip (long enough so that the air stopped working), they got in it, saw that it wasn't blowing and felt the compressor which was "cold as ice", but then they couldn't bring it in to look at it until 4 hours later and by then it was working fine. The air doesn't stop working when they run the car at the shop for hours on end, only when I've had it out on the highway. I'm tired of being hot and getting the run around from the dealership. Any suggestions?!?
  • texaslead1texaslead1 Member Posts: 4
    Ive had minor problems with my 2001ex coupe automatic with side-airbags but overall an excellent car for the money. Purchased the vehicle in early november 2000 for $360 over invoice from priceline.com at an authorized honda dealer in southern cal. I drove it across to texas
    to big D. With 13,000 driven, Ive gotten anywhere from 27 mpg in the city to 41 mpg on the cross the southwest trip, but i usually get about 33 mpg. Sure im not going to win many drag races but im not into wasting my gas with piss ant punks! And Ive got a car I can run into the ground for up to at least 10 years and 250,000 miles, while other sorry asses will have to buy at least two cars in the same period. The following have been my minor problems:1) rattles in mid-console area and back speaker area-- which the dealer fixed, 2)front-bumper paint peeling off after getting the car detailed--repainted by dealer, 3)platic passenger insert near door lever falling off--fixed by dealer.
  • mdrivermdriver Member Posts: 385
    Why do you think your car will last 10yrs/250k miles? That's quite a prediction. Not all Civics last that long and there are many cars (even some domestics) that will have the same longevity as the Civic. Plus, the reliability of the 01 Civic seems shaky at best (see JD Power survey). The Corolla had about half as many problems as the Civic in that survey.
  • madirishman1madirishman1 Member Posts: 15
    The JD Power survey is in fact, an inaccurate or skewed survey at best. The vehicle I drove before my Civic was a 1998 Dodge Dakota 4X4 which led its competitive models in quality control on said survey. I had more problems with that damn truck than I had ever had with anything I've ever owned. Initial quality my [non-permissible content removed]. Also, the Corolla isn't as well engineered as a Civic. All you have to do is some research. I've had zero problems with my car thus far. The only thing I have to complain about is some rattling that occurs on certain rough roads. That's it.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    does not show long term reliability. Subarus are known for long term reliability but not initial quality. Hondas are also known for long term reliability and above average initial quality.
  • jc294jc294 Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to decide to buy a Civic EX sedan or Jetta GLS 1.8T, both auto transmission. I'm leaning toward civic, as I don't want to deal with mechanical problems. But Jetta (or new Passat, for that matter) is exactly the image that I want myself to be seen - a bit older and more refined and sophisticated than the average 20-year-old (I am in my early 30s). Both are great cars and I'm having the hardest time trying to decide. Any advice/suggestion? Here's a list of pros and cons for each.

    Civic -
    Pros:
    1. Cheaper base price, under $18k
    2. More reliable and cheaper to maintain
    3. Better gas efficiency
    Cons:
    1. Boring appearance and styling
    2. Less fun and powerful to drive
    3. Consumer complaints about declining quality (based on personal research finding, no real data)

    Jetta -
    Pros:
    1. Distinguish style
    2. Relatively affordable price, around $20k
    3. More powerful and fun to drive
    Cons:
    1. Heard owner complaints about various problems, though most are minor, still discouraging
    2. VW dealerships have bad reputation for service
    3. Requires premium gas, lower gaas milleage
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    jc...I answered your question in a duplicate post.

    RE: 250k logevity. Well, I wish it to you, but that's an extremely optimistic outlook, way beyond the average speedo reading in wrecking yards for ANY car. 250K would be in the 99th percentile, if that!
  • teddwoodteddwood Member Posts: 16
    Manual: I also have a brand new 01 Civic. The car has its original firestone tires. Steering wheel vibrates around 70mph. "Very annoying"! The vibration doesn't happen when it is hot. I believe it is the tires. Had the tires checked at the dealership twice. They told there is nothing wrong. The car still vibrates. Honda's quality is going down hill. I would stay away from honda next time. Anyone heard about the recall on fuel pipe connector?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I think any Civic is perfectly capable of going 250,000 miles and more. I've seen lots of these.

    But, I really wish you wouldn't insult our host or anyone else here. These are FAMILY forums and not a bar room discussion area.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    You are correct about JD Powers. "Initial" problems can be squeaks, radios that lose their codes etc..and, yep, some of the Civics had these problems.

    Long term is MUCH different!

    Your Subaru example is a good one.

    Sorry, mdriver, Civics are really great long term cars that last a long long time!
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    Why would you avoid Honda because of the tires? when it comes time to replace the tires, simply select a different brand.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    You just can't leave stuff alone. But thanx for agreeing with me. Maybe we can agree more in other forums huh? Why would you say "I hink it's the tires" and then say Honda's quality is slipping with no other basis? A agree the strut suspension is a letdown but BMW has struts and aren't they "driving machines"? And VW "drivers wanted" have a torsion beam in the rear.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Your air conditioning problem is a classic example of having a slightly low refrigerant charge or, less likely, a defective expansion valve or thermostatic control. This condition causes ice to slowly accumulate on the evaporator and the ice will eventually block the flow of air altogether. The fact that you don't have this problem on short trips is further confirmation that ice-formation is the problem. A good A/C repair shop should have quickly diagnosed the problem. The long wait at the shop simply allowed the ice to melt. Note that you can turn off the compressor for ten or fifteen minutes while driving and the air will begin circulating as the ice melts. Suggest that you find a good shop and describe the problem in these terms. Good luck.
  • texaslead1texaslead1 Member Posts: 4
    I totally concur, please accept my sincere apology. What was I thinking, this is not the Jim Rome Show. I promise it will not happen again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, apologies gratefully accepted. Opinions are offered in good fellowship, not to prove "right" or "wrong".
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Not a problem. These are pretty mellow forums with an occassional spat between members once in awhile.

    fxashun,

    Was your last post directed to me? I didn't say anything about tires or quality slipping ?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    The tires part was directed at the guy that said he thinks his tires are bad but that he still thinks Honda's quality is slipping.
    I KNOW you wouldn't say Honda's quality is slipping. Talk about shooting yourself in the foot. :)
  • massagemassage Member Posts: 7
    thanks guys for the info on a/c. I really appreciate it . do you know if there is a way to test the sensors that go to the odometer the honda dealership told me that they could only test it when it was not working . once or twice a week the
    speedometer spikes to 60 then sits at 0 then suddenly it starts working again .(the contacts are all clean )
  • massagemassage Member Posts: 7
    i just replaced the passenger side mirror it cost me $120.00 for the mirror from the dealer a friend put it in. it was not that hard (sorry the info is so late i just saw the post
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Massage, your speedometer symptoms indicate a defective VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)or a poor connection in the VSS circuit. The VSS is a pulse-counting device that mounts on the transmission. Within this device is a small shaft that is driven by the differential carrier - this small rotating component can fail. Check the computer for Diagnostic Trouble Codes; a code "17" is often (but not always) recorded if the VSS is defective. This problem will affect fuel consumption and performance and will definitely cause the cruise control to malfunction.
  • brorjacebrorjace Member Posts: 588
    Massage, once the diagnosis gets that particular, I'm afraid I won't be of any additional help. I'm just a do-it-yourselfer, after all, and not an actual mechanic. >;^)

    To the person with the power steering problem, did you use OEM Honda fluid? If not, you may have cause a leak and possibly damage to your pump. Honda and Acura were pioneers in speed-sensitive steering and have used their own type of fluid for over a decade. Just look at most bottles of aftermarket fluid and they say NOT to use them in Hondas.

    Moving on: Yes, I know the RSX is based on the Civic. It saddens me deeply ... and I'll probably go with the Toyota Celica GTS instead. It's almost the same car on paper but with better styling and a price tag about $2-3K less. This is actually a serious dilemna for me as I've been a diehard Honda/Acura fan for at least a dozen years. <:^(

    Lastly, I know McCheapson Struts are an 'acceptable' suspension set-up ... but I much prefer the previous, conventional wishbone configuration. The traditional layout is more durable and ages much more gracefully. More than that, it's a sign that Honda is willing to scrimp on engineering. <:^(

    --- Bror Jace
  • brandon_b01brandon_b01 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I just bought a new civic and I love it. The ride is smooth, fast and very fun. The color is Silver I/ black interior, its sharp looking. So far I've put 300 miles on it in. I know its new, but I haven't felt rattling of the steering wheel. I've had it at 85 and it was as smooth as it could be. No rattling what so ever, it corners like its on rails. all I really got to say is that if you take care of your civic, then it will last a long time. I want to modify it a little, just make it faster, so if any one has some ideas, please e-mail me.

    Later
    "B"
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    I just bought a 1993 EX Coupe 128K. I actually bought it because I have some Isuzu 5 star wheels that needed a car to go on and this one was a steal at $3000.
    Runs like a champ. AC is cold, engine is smooth, stereo sucks in radio mode but the CD player rocks, no squeaks or rattles. You just gotta love Honda, this car feels like it's ready for at least another 100K.
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