Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

11516182021101

Comments

  • In a few years? It looks plenty tacky right now. IMHO, there are only two cars uglier than the Ford Focus: The Pontiac Aztek, and the Toyota Echo.
  • The distributor on my 94 Civic DX HB has to be rotated all the way to one side to get proper ignition timing. Is it possible this was caused by improper installation of the timing belt? Could something else cause this?
    I purchased the car about 10 months ago, and since I don't know when the timing belt was last changed, I thought I'd get a new one, and have them also look into this issue. The mechanic that performed the last change must have been an idiot. He didn't even reattach the upper timing cover properly.
    I just wanted to get some input from the fine Honda experts that post on this board. I've learned so much just by lurking these posts.
    P.S. I also have been hearing some valve noise. what is the recommended interval for valve adjustment? As long as they're removing the valve cover, I'll probably have them adjust the valves, too.
    Thanks.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If I remember correctly you have to jump the SCS connector before you check the timing. Are you doing that? If not that could be the reason for the timing appearing to be off. I would think if it was off that much that it would not run very good.
    Valves get adjusted every 30k or when they are noisy.
  • Thanks. I did jump it (if you're talking about the connector by right kick panel). I can get the timing within spec. However, the distributor must be all the way to one side. That's what seems odd. It should be somewhere in the center range of the bracket, shouldn't it?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Usally it is in the center of the range when in spec so maybe you do have a belt off a tooth and the timing corrected by someone to make up for it.
  • Thanks! It feels good to know that a weekend mechanic like me can come up with the proper dignosis! I won't be giving up my day job anytime soon, though.
    Except for the possible timing belt misalignment and the valve noise, this 1994, 260,000 mile Civic runs pretty darn well, I must say.
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    I wasn't sure where to post this, but i have the oppurtunity to purchase a 200 civic si with only 29k miles on it, the only problem is that it is a flood damaged car. At this point i could buy it for about $4000, can anyone with an expert opinion tell me what serious problems i should be looking at if i bought a flood damaged car. Please any feedback would help. Thanks
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    If the engine, transmission, power steering, and brake system were drained, flushed, and refilled immediately after the flooding - and the car promptly started and driven; there's a fair chance that your operational problems will be limited to major electrical problems. I agree that $4000 for this car is tempting but you will will continue to encounter many reliability problems associated with corrosion and decomposition for many months. If the above post-flood actions weren't taken, I wouldn't consider this car at all. However, if the flood water was calm and you know the depth was no more than about 13", the outlook could be much better.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    My car is fixed. Took a couple of hours. Mine was rattling up near in windshield, under the passenger side vanity mirror. Don't know what exactly they did, but it does not rattle anymore. I think the tech mentioned just lubing something in there. They ordered a seat track for me...should be in in a few days.

    Of course, since my tired have now been rotated, they make that warping noise when going over 60 mph now. I guess that means they were not balanced correctly when I picked up the car.....figures.
  • punches1punches1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Civic LX with 68K on it. All maintenance has been done at the local dealership. Recently I heard a LOUD knocking or banging sound while driving the car. I have been able to reproduce the sound (not a sound I like to hear and reproduce) since the first occurence, but the technician at Honda has not. I have heard spark knock before, and this is NOT spark knock--the sound is much louder and seems to come from deep in the engine.

    The sound occurs when the engine is under load (with or without the AC on) and usually when I first use it or after it has been used and sat for several hours before the next use. I am concerned that the sound is coming from what I've heard described as the "bottom of the engine". I had the Honda service dept. perform the 75K work on the car, which included valve adjustment, etc. and the sound was still there, just a bit softer (more like a rattling spark knock, but with a louder ticking or banging noise). Yesterday the loud knock/bang appeared again.

    Someone mentioned to me that the oil in the valve area is "bleeding down" when the car is not in use.

    Any other suggestions? I'm anxious to find some sort of solution since the problem is random and I'm not sure I'll be able to get the mechanic to hear the problem before the entire engine blows (which is what sounds like will happen if the problem can't be found and repaired.

    Thanks for any suggestions anyone has for me.
  • manuelmanuel Member Posts: 13
    thanks for the info spokane, i don't know if any of those things were done, so i will probably not end up purchasing the vehicle seeing as i don't know what kind of problems the car would have, and i am not prepared financially to commit to such an undertaking, at the age of 16. Thanks a lot though for the info.
  • strong68strong68 Member Posts: 22
    I have noticed wind noise from the front passenger window lately of my 2001 LX Civic..anyone else have this? Anything that can be done to the seal or auto window? Besides that the car has been reliable and durable.
  • brad72brad72 Member Posts: 3
    Honda is recalling 120,649 2001 Civics for fuel lines that can come undone and possible catch fire. Ouch. Now thats quality!


    http://www.auto.com/targetnews/articles/Automotive/08_29_2001.reutr-story-N29245479.html

  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    or is it Honda finding a fault that no one else has complained about? nhtsa has no record of any complaints and he corrective action is only to tighten bolts that MAY have incorrect torque with no parts replacement required. I'd say that's significant. Yeah right.
  • It's still better than our friends at Ford, where quality is job 3. Job 1 is denying there's a problem. Job 2 is fighting lawsuits.

    You'd think they learned their lesson from the old exploding Pintos, but nooooo. Faulty tires. Improperly placed ignition coils. Defective seat belt latches. Not one self-initiated recall. Deny the existence of a problem until the govt steps in. That's their credo, apparently.

    At least Honda admitted to a mistake and voluntarily corrected it BEFORE being forced to take action. I, for one, admire that.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i got my fuel clamps INSPECTED back in July when I got my notice. They said everything was fine. From what I hear, there have been no real issues. I think Honda just wants to make sure they never are perceived like Ford or Chrysler.
  • beanbean Member Posts: 4
    hi, i have a 95 Honda Civic with 50K miles, and the check engine light turn on two days ago, any one know a way to pull a trouble code out? or any ideas for a quick fix?
  • rfruthrfruth Member Posts: 630
    No check engine light problem for me (thank goodness) but most manufactures (including Honda) went to OBDII (on board diagnostics) around the 1995 or 96 time frame and sadly to pull trouble codes a OBDII Honda scan tool (read expensive) is needed, seems to me a great feature would be some way for the average shade tree mechanic to access and decode error codes. Rob Fruth Houston
  • beanbean Member Posts: 4
    my 95 civic has a engine light on, and the tech want $90 just to take a look at it, any anyone have a qick fix?
  • cindye1cindye1 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a Civic with the automatic transmission. When I come to a stop on a slight incline and take my foot off the brake the car rolls back. I called the service dept and was told that "this was not like any automatic I have ever driven before" and that it was suppose to do that. Can anyone enlighten me????
  • bklynboybklynboy Member Posts: 16
    The front end (engine?) of my 2001 Civic LX has recently been making a whirring noise at highway speeds. The car has 5500 miles, mostly city driving. It is above 40 mph or so that I notice it; any ideas?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Honda/Acura and Saturn automatic transaxles are a different internal design than conventional transmissions and transaxles, but the rolling backwards on grades isn't caused by that. It's a combination of idle speed and torque converter design. Normal operating characteristic for your vehicle.
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    i noticed that a few years ago when i had my first automatic honda. going from an american made auto, i was used to the car creeping up even on the incline if you losened your push on the brake pedal. i thought it was a defect, but someone explained to me, that by loosening the grip on the torque converter hondas are able to increase fuel economy, then at speed the lock up toque converter feature elimintes any slip.
  • Domestic cars are doing it too now. My Impala does the same thing, for the same reason.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Every car I have ever owned (a LOT of cars) has rolled backwards if I take my foot off the brake while on an incline.

    Some Studebakers and Subarus had a "hill holder" that prevented this. Shouldn't be a big deal to just keep your foot on the brake?
  • satish_casatish_ca Member Posts: 1
    Whenever I press the brakes I hear a clanking sound. I took it to the dealer they said it is a common complaint and I should not worry but I did not hear it in the past. I believe something is loose. Does anyone have similar problem? Any suggestions?
  • Something is wrong. Bring it to a different dealer. The one you went to is apparently staffed by idiots.
    Never take chances with your brakes.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Hard to believe, eh, gary?

    It is not normal for brakes to "clank".
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I expect very few participants can relate to the Studebaker Hill-Holder, isellhondas. Of course you are referring to standard shift with planetary overdrive -- also nearly forgotten. You are either a good auto historian or you are giving away your age....

    (The spell checker didn't recognize "Studebaker")
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I have a '90 Integra (cousin to the civic) with 135,000 miles that has just started doing something weird. Sometimes when I try to start the car nothing happens when I turn the key - no noise or anything. Then on the second or third try the car starts fine like nothing is wrong.
    This has been happening for the last week or so, and I can't figure it out.

    I don't think it would be the battery since it has plenty of juice when it does turn over, and it is only a couple of years old. Don't think it would be a dead spot on the starter because the car always starts eventually without tapping the starter or rocking the car. Could it be the ignition switch? Maybe the coil? Starter solenoid? Does anybody have any ideas for likely candidates? Thanks in advance.

    Don't know if this is related, but today one time when I started the car it turned over and did not catch. I waited a few seconds and it started fine.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Ignition switch, clutch switch, bad electrical connection somewhere.
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    roll back clutch installed on subaru's was only on cars with manual transmission. we were talking about auto tranny's that allow slip to some degree.
  • vmp1962vmp1962 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Civic LX just past 60k,needs brake rotors. I have had this car in EVERY 7500 mile interval check(dealer), haven't even had to have new pads or had the rotors turned. They've always said the brakes were in surprisingly good shape. I don't do much if any city/stop and go driving, I don't lay on the brakes. Isn't 60K a bit premature for this kind of repair? How can they go from being good to bad in less than 7k?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    There are three things that I would do.
    1. Get a second opinion.
    2. Buy the tech manual. Chilton or the factory one.
    3. Learn how to do your own brakes.
    Pads and rotors can now be bought with lifetime warranty which mean you would never have to buy brakes again. Saving sveral hundreds of dollars in the long run. Brakes are not hard to do at all.
  • dudkadudka Member Posts: 451
    it is usual for civic brakes to need to be replaced at 60 k, it is still better than 7K on jettas and BMW 323's. as far as warranty goes i do not think it cover the regular wear of the brake shoes, or rotors.
  • civic_cx_92civic_cx_92 Member Posts: 87
    I got a '92 civic cx 5-sp with 111,400 miles on it, it had only had one front brake pads replacement so far. Inspected and still had approx. 20k miles left on the pads and shoes. Still running on original rotors.
    Our '97 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3 V-6 needed new front pads/rotors before 30k miles.
    DCX does not cover the regular wear of the brake shoes, or rotors.
  • phelpsgphelpsg Member Posts: 15
    The wipers on my 94 Civic won't come on when the car is cold but after the car warms up they work. Also, they work if you press down on the lever whether the car is cold or not. Has anyone had the same problem?
  • Has anyone had the speedometer on their 92-95 Civic quit working or go intermittent on them? Mine has.
    I was wondering if it is most likely in the sensor or the gauge. If it was a sensor problem, has anyone successfully repaired it? Or, did it have to be replaced? I want to avoid the $78 for a new one.
    I definitely want to avoid having to remove the instrument cluster, so I hope it's the sensor either way.
  • civic_cx_92civic_cx_92 Member Posts: 87
    I'm having same problem on my '92 Civic CX, the wiper switch stalk needs to be 'fiddled' for the wipers to work.
    The wiper switch stalk needs to be replaced, OEM part cost is $89 at local Honda parts counter.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Usally a speedometer that is bad either bounces or reads to high or low. If it is sometimes working ,sometimes not, then it is probably the speed sensor but instead of guessing you may want to have some one test it.Good luck..
  • Thanks. When it does work, it bounces. Usually, it doesn't even work at all.
    I'll remove the sensor, and check the electrical connections and general condition. I'll clean it and reconnect it first, before going out and buying a new one.
    Even if I have to buy a new sensor, it has to be easier than removing, repairing, and possibly replacing the speedometer and/or instument cluster.
  • peters99peters99 Member Posts: 4
    If enough of us '01 civic owners with the bouncy suspension write letters to Honda corporate (in back of your owner's manual) they might do a goodwill replacement with '02 parts. Worth a try...any takers?
  • bklynboybklynboy Member Posts: 16
    It is still going on, so I ask again.

    The front end (engine?) (transmission?) (tires?) of my 2001 Civic LX has recently been making a whirring noise at highway speeds. The car has 6000 miles, mostly city driving. It is above 40 mph or so that I notice it; any ideas? It actually sounds kind of like a glass pack muffler, but not as loud, kind of rough, though. I did have one of those brain fades and put the car in park when it was still moving slightly at the supermarket a month or so ago. Could I have chipped a tooth on a transmission gear? I have the automatic. Thanks.
  • barnonebarnone Member Posts: 118
    only 6K miles? y wont u go 2 d dealer? let d dealer
    ride wid u n c da problem
  • e h t y u honda i d y t s dealer mn h yt s civic.
  • phelpsgphelpsg Member Posts: 15
    Have you actually replaced the wiper switch stalk and that fixed it? Just trying to make sure that's the problem vs some control module that's faulty only when it's cold.
  • mikemwmikemw Member Posts: 5
    have heard several with this problem. ?? know of one shop that did a rebuild and still had same knock.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    It's normal when cold. My Vigor used to sound like a farm tractor until everything warmed up. Come to think of it...So did my Accords.
  • civic_cx_92civic_cx_92 Member Posts: 87
    Just replaced the wiper stalk module and it works great!
    Undo three screws under the steering collar, unsnap the two halves, turn the steering wheel to undo the two screws on wiper stem, pull the stem module out to the right, unplug the connector, and install new stem module.
    My problem again was my wiper did not actuate when clicked to 'wipe' mode but it did when I fiddled with the stalk.
    The wiper gets used alot here in Oregon, I'd figure it needed to be replaced after 10 years.
  • syldacatsyldacat Member Posts: 8
    My son drove his 92 Civic LX to a friend's house, and it died as he pulled up to the curb. After a few hours, Rob started it (easily) and drove off--only to have the car die after 20 minutes. He waited awhile,restarted it, and drove another 20 minutes before it died again. This time, he had it towed home. We found the battery was going bad, so we got a new one. It won't start! We replaced the fuel filter and the distributor and the spark plugs--no go. Then, we noticed a whine and found the Air Idler making a noise. Took that off and cleaned it and put it back on and the whine was gone. The car started and ran for 20 seconds then died again! We tested the Fuel Relay Sensor and the Fuel Pump---both are good. The "Check Engine" light never came on, and, every time the car died, the radio just kept on going fine. Does anybody have an idea of what is going on? The business about running for 20 minutes makes you think something is warming up and dying, but the engine light didn't come on. It was dying while under acceleration, so how could it be the Idler Air Module? He wasn't idling when it died! The starter is good.

    Tearing my hair out--Pat
This discussion has been closed.