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Comments
As for clicking, if it's something you hear on a turn, it's a CV joint complaining.
[Insert oxygen sensor joke here]
To a certain extent, cars today do seem to get used to their environments, and being taken someplace new requires a whole new learning curve.
Thanks to windowphobe for reminding me not to overtorque the cam cover. Since I did not have a torque wrench, I did not do it. Also, I think that I will need a new cam gasket, because I DON'T KNOW IF THERE IS ONE THERE! I think that they 'made' it on the spot with silicon sealant...
In any case, I wanted to do something 'manly' over the weekend, and despite I had no scanner to pull the codes, I went ahead an changed wires and plugs (I used Bosch $45 cables and Bosch platinum plugs - are these OK?). When getting one of the plugs out, I noticed that there was a little chunk of silicone sealant (left there by the mechanic, se above...) which was preventing the wire boot to go down all the way. Apparently, that, and the slight warming up in Philly in the last week, caused a misfire or two, which is probably why the CEL was flaring up.
Runs better, although I still haven't tunned it with the strobe-light. In any case, I haven't seen the CEL in three days...
G.
Are BOSCH 'Premium' cables and 'platinum' spark-plugs OK for the 626? I got them last weekend and installed them, but they do look a bit flimsy...
Thanks!
It's hard to go wrong with NGK plugs and wires, but just leave what you have alone as long as they are working.
Guillermo
When the A/C or fan is turned on the cars idles up and down. It drops a few hundred rpms at Idle or about 1500 RPMs if you idle it up to about 3K. This happens setting still or driving at any speed.
The drag is enough to kill the engine at low speeds or while shifting.
Also, I have noticed a waver in the idle even without the fan or A/C on.
There is no other noticeable problem with the running, acceleration, so on.
Certainly one of you smart guy mechanics can recognize the problem and help me out here.
The plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and pcv valve were just replaced. I also disconnected the negative battery terminal to reset the computer memory stuff and the problem has still not changed a bit.
thanks
david
Now I have yet another question. I still havent had time to get the ECU codes, but found several pages on the web that describe how to fish them out from OBD-I systems on 626's and Probe's. So I set out to do my weekend's 'manly' activities, opened the hood, was happy to find out that my connector is indeed an OBD-I connector, got the paper clip ready to plug TEN and GND and then look at my flashing CEL light and ... there's no metal in the TEN contact point, only the GND, B+, etc., have metal contact points! What the heck is this? Is it this the way they force your butt into a dealer to cough up $80 to get the damned codes? I am so pissed - So close, but no cigar, and still wondering what my error codes are. If anyone has a way around this without the need for a $250 scan tool I'll appreciate it...
Guillermo
Any clues?
Thanks!
G.
If I want to fix this problem what do I have to buy, where and how much is it?
As far as I read probably this problem is because two possible problems:
1.- transmission(buy a rebuild one), or
2.- engine relay in the fuse box, reporting to the computer that the car was in gear.
If is the 2nd case how do I repair it.
THANKS
Alcindo
Engine relays are not repaired: you pull out the old one and push the new one into place.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm thinking maybe the range sensor, which is the actual switch on the
transmission that calls for the gear change - the shift lever on the console
is connected to it by a linkage. These have been known to go bad, and when
they do, the transmission tends to ignore the shift position unless you
really push hard on the lever....cgh
CEL has been on and off since 90k miles and the code points to the sensors. I have been leaving them alone since emission and gas mileage are fine until recently when I noticed gas mileage drops a little bit.
Has anyone done this him/herself?
How difficult is it?
Found Bosch part for $55 each at Autozone.
Do I need a special tool to remove them? Thanks.
If you want to change the sensors, go for it. It is easy, although my 626 (95, 4 cyl, ATX) has only the 'front' one (I beleive - windowphobe, correct me if I'm wrong...). For the front you need a a spanner that will fit, although I used an adjustable wrench (not recomended, though). Just buy the OEM Bosch part so you don't have to splice/solder cables (I also got it at AutoZone). The latching connector on it is kind of a pain to get loose. But it's doable. As for the back O2 sensor, I read that you have to put the car in stands to get to it. Nice page:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm
Go to the bottom and they have a section of O2 sensor replacement for the V6. One thing that I found useful: Do it when the engine is warm (not right after you drove because things down there get REALLY hot, but 1 hour later - The things are easier to unscrew).
Now, although you are getting a code related to O2 stuff (lean/rich mixture, etc., etc.), it may not be the O2 sensor. My mechanic got a code (finally!), and told me that the O2 sensor was the most likely culprit, so I changed it, and the CEL still flares up like a f#&$*@ing Xmass tree. My next guess is the MAF sensor, for which I found a nice detailed cleaning procedure.
Hope this helps. Now I have to figure out why mine is still comming on, now more frequently, every time I step on the gas or the car is under load at ~ 2500 - 3000 rmp. I'm a research chemist by trainning, and refuse to pay an obscene ammount of money to have the dealer muck things up - I rather do that myself and feel proud about it!
G.
I still have a glimmer of hope - Do I need to disconnect the -ve battery cable to reset the computer and let it know it has a new O2 sensor?
Thanks,
G.
G.
After that, we went for a ~20 mile trip with highway speeds, lots of trafic and idling, I drove it hard, was under load up-hill several times, whicch were all conditions for the CEL to come on, and the CEL did not come on. Was I a happy man!
@# ?!?!
Why did the problem went and came back? Could the O2 sensor I got at Autozone suffered from 'sudden infant death', as many other electronic component are known to? I guess I'll do the MAF cleaning now...
As usual, any word of wisdom from all the 626 gurus in the board are welcomed.
G.
Also, could the solitary CEL 'blink' I got after my long drive withouth CEL activity be the computer still getting used to the new Bosch O2 sensor, or just my pathetically bad luck?
G.
Every other year I do a drain and refill and add Lubegard. My local transmission shop puts on a new seal. Never had leaking problems.
The computer has to relearn some things after a component change, so it's possible that you're just getting a hiccup.
Although every time I say "...It's fixed..." the little mechanical demons hear me and decide to torment me by throwing everything out of whack, I'm gonna say it. It's fixed (but not too loud...).
After the solitary CEL blink last saturday night (yeah, it really ruined my saturday night...), I decided to touch up my cable-ties around the O2 sensor, and I also checked the MAF and retightenned its bolts (I still have to put a 4th one in there - whoever serviced this thing did not do it and it's in a really hard-to-reach spot). I used new bolts with washers and pressure-washers - Nice and tidy. I also disconnected the -ve battery cable, stepped on the brakes, etc., etc. Well, since then I have had 5+ trips on the car with all sorts of driving styles, plus my wife commuting this morning to work into the city, then to the airport, and back, and no CEL. Touch wood.
I also learned, after countless hours of web searching, that the 95 4 cyl. 626 with ATX has a EEC-IV (Ford) diagnostics plug, and once you find it, grounding the STI prong will give you the error codes through the CEL light (no point doing that now in my case, as I cleared all the codes...). I also learned that the 95 4 cyl. 626/ATX is OBD-I. This is one of the reasons why I avoid taking the car to a mechanic as long as I can deal with problems in a DIY manner - You get to learn a LOOOOT of stuff. Most goes to the 'repository of useless information' bin in your brain, but...
So, in sum, if anyone out there is seeing their CEL blinking intermitently when they step on the gas between 2500 - 3500 rpm under load (going up-hill, for example), but see no aparent drop in performance, the most likely cause is the O2 sensor. As many of you pointed out, cleaning the MAF should be done at the same time - It is simple pre-emptive maintenenace, and will also help your idle quite a bit.
I think most of my problems are solved. Next weekend I'll do the valve cover gasket with a friend of mine that has a shop, and also change plugs and wires (yeah, I know, again, but he told me the same thing someone mentioned here - Bosch plugs stink). I'll keep you posted.
One more thing: I do want to say THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH to everyone out there that made suggestions and provided information on this. I wish there was something like a round of 'virtual beer' that I could offer you with ;-)
Cheers,
Guillermo
Oh, ian18, if you're referring to the notorious tranny problems, dardson's mom's car is a V6, so those problems don't apply.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Are you satisfied with the Bosch OEM type sensor?
A friend of mine has problems with the Bosch sensor on his Honda.
On other topics, has anyone had one of those ATX services in which they connect one of the ATX fluid hoses to a bucket full of clean ATX fluid, and then let the car run until the fluid comes clean on the other end? I saw this service somewhere around town for 80 bucks, and looks like the only way by which you would really get all the old ATX fluid out without taking the tranny apart.
Also, my next near-future 'manly' project is, after servicing the ATX, installing a tranny cooler. Has anyone done this? How hard is it? Any hints?
Thanks in advance,
G.
About this O2 sensor deal. I have a 2001 Protege with the same 2.0L as your 626s. It sounds like these engines like to eat O2 sensors. How much are these?