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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    how much are we talking about here? Are you talking about the overflow bottle? Is it full now and any extra spills out the top? I'm a little confused and not quite understanding where exactly the fluid is coming from. If its overfilling the overflow bottle, then I would think your problem is just too much coolant. the system will only hold what it needs. There are 2 lines on the overflow bottle. 1 is for where the level of coolant should be when the car is cold and 1 is for when its fully warmed and running.

    I think I need a better description to possibly help you. Unless someone else understands or has had this issue?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 34256550m34256550m Member Posts: 4
    thank you for replying, qbrozen
    I´m sorry my english vocabulary is not as extensive as I´d like, but I´ll try to explain the problem better.
    The amount of leakage is not small, I´ve had to refill coolant several times during last week. In some case the leakage left the coolant tank (bottle, deposit, I´m not sure about the right word, in any case, where you refill coolant) almost empty (under minimum mark). I don´t think is an excess of coolant because I refill between MINIMUM and MAXIMUM indicated levels, as always and this has not happened before. The sequence of events is: after driving for a while, when you switch off the engine the coolant starts passing through the hose that goes from the cap of the radiator to the coolant bottle (this cap has an spring that under overpressure allows coolant go out to the expansion bottle). The problem is that the amount of coolant that passes completely fills the coolant bottle and then coolant starts going out the circuit through the purge that comes out from the cap of the coolant bottle, in some cases as I said before leaving the bottle almost empty. It looks like there is an overpressure in the circuit but I can imagine why. It could be the radiator cap is not working properly (maybe it opens the output to the coolant bottle at lower levels of pressure, but I don´t think so). The temperature indicator looks O.K. when driving.
    the car is a 4 cilinder, manual.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It does sound like a leaky radiator cap. It will only cost you US$8 to find out.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I think you and maltb have it. When either the gasket on the cap or the spring wear down, it no longer holds the pressure that it should. Replace the cap with one from your local parts shop and see what happens.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 34256550m34256550m Member Posts: 4
    thank you qbrozen and maltb
    I´m going to change the radiator cap and I´ll check it out during next week, that I´ll be out on vacation. I´ll tell you about how it was on august 20th
  • pegasus3pegasus3 Member Posts: 4
    Well the transmission was replaced (rebuild), O2 sensor replaced, now the over drive sensor. A month after the rebuilt tranny was put in the OD light started its flashing again coming home from a trip. After a few days the OD will not engage (stuck in highway mode). The replaced the OD sensor but it still won't engage. Now they are asking me if I spilled anything in the hand brake. I have heard, and I cannot remember where, that there is something under the hand brake area that will go out if liguid gets spilled and leaks through this area. Could this be the problem and what is it that would have gotten leaked on? I cannot remember anything spilling down the hand brake but with two kids who knows.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Among other things, the shift linkage - and the wiring for the O/D switch.
  • hink2hink2 Member Posts: 4
    I bought my 626 new in 1994. It is now on its third automatic trans. For a while I pondered how Ford could make such poor transmissions after so many years in business. However, by the time the third transmission started failing (with the same series of problems as the first two), my dealer had learned something which stopped the problems in their tracks. The dealer informed me that if I put in a new radiator and an auxiliary, after market, transmission oil cooler, that might end the problem. I was doubtful, but I trusted the service manager, and ~$400 later the parts were in. That was almost two years ago. The tranny problems immediately went away and have not returned, even in the heat of this very hot summer. So here is what I think: Mazda has (or had) a design problem with transmissions- certainly those installed in the mid 1990's on their 2L, 4 cyl cars. They finally figured out what to do about it, but typical of a car company, especially one associated with Ford, they would never admit to it- might cost them some dough!The '94 626 is a nicely styled car,and the engine has been tight as a tic, but overall body quality is mediocre. If I had bought a Honda in "94 I would have never had the pile of problems, tranny and many others, I've put up with. My estimate is that "extra" repair costs, other then normal wear items, e.g. plug wires, plugs, timing belt, etc., added at least $3000 to the selling price over the past 8 years of ownership (not forgetting the many inconveniences). I would be hard pressed to consider another Mazda. Although, their new rotary model looks interesting! I can only hope it is way overpriced for what it offers- like the new T-bird.
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    To be fair, every manufaturer has its own problem.
    Look at the Honda Accord and Acura TL threads and you will see people having multiple auto transmission failures also.
    Read the Camry threads and you will see engine sludge problems.
    Read the VW threads and you will see even more problems...
    I guess rather than avoiding certain brand, the best solution is to be an educated consumer, know the facts, the problems, and how to prevent them.
    That's why these forums are so useful.
  • hink2hink2 Member Posts: 4
    I would be more sympathetic to your statements if every chatline and database on cars that I've been to (including federal) have been filled with '94 Mazda auto tranny complaints. The issue, for me, is not poor design (testing, quality control, etc.) that causes the buyer to absorb millions of dollars of expense, it's the general reluctance of multinational companies to own up to their responsibilties to their customers. As for me, I'm just glad they figured it out. As for my next purchase- well maybe you would be well advised to sell FORD and Mazda stock if you have any. They have great ads, but quality, honest dealing- well perhaps that's expecting too much from an American corporation these days.
  • magefiremagefire Member Posts: 6
    This is my first post in the town hall, although I've been following the Mazda 6 boards since they started. I have a 1986 Mazda 626 LX 4dr Sedan. Its a manual with a 116,000 miles on it. I'm Just out of high school and this car was my Trainer. Now going into college, My parents say I shouldn't put all my trust into this car for transportation to and from school.

    This car has only had one major failure while I've been using it. The thermostat went out and it was severely over heating, causing me to head home in small go/cooldown/go sessions. As far as anybody knows, thats the first time the thermo was ever replaced. It has a new clutch and I do the usual oil and filter changes. Mechanically it seem very reliable. the Muffler been replaced due to rusting, and I've seen a few batteries and alternators go into this thing. I've never seen it go out of service due to a major failure.

    Most of the problems are electrical. A/C system is dead. the front power windows don't work. Reverse lights no longer turn on. Some problems are mechanical. the motor mounts need to be replaced and the keys don't work on the doors any more.

    I was wondering if I should pursue replacing the broken components or begin looking for something else. I can't really afford a payment at this time and I do like the car. Would it be foolish of me to replace components on such an old car?
    -MF
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    You're looking at around a grand worth of fix-'ems. Of course, $1000 won't buy you much of a car, either, so you're probably better off fixing them and getting it over with.
  • hink2hink2 Member Posts: 4
    If you like working on cars and hanging around junk yards and part stores, and you must absolutely have a car, then you might consider keeping what you have. However,I suspect your college time will be worth more to you in the short (and hopefully long run) then working on a car. That's high school stuff. If your commuting, then get a later model Honda. Check the web car sites or one of the many used car review periodicals to select a good year for a Civic or Accord, or any top rated used car. Get one that you won't need to pay collision insurance on, just liability. Also, you can check these resources to see how your current car is rated, and whether it's worth trying to keep. Good luck.
  • magefiremagefire Member Posts: 6
    I expect it to be about a 25 min commute every day. About getting a different car, I don't really know what my financial situation will be like in the future. I might get a part time job, might not. scholarships come and go, affecting the situation further. Also, I don't want to change cars and end up having similar problems. from what I seem to gather, A/C systems, power controled systems and such seem to go out over time anyways. I find it difficult to change because, lets say a car has working systems, and they break a year from now. i probably would have been better off fixing them right in the first car maybing saving some money in the process.

    I dont mind working on cars as a hobby. I think it would be worth picking up. I don't plan to spend any more time than I have to though. School is and should be the number one priority.

    Also, I find it hard to gather online info about this car. most online databases go back to the 90's, and get exponinentially worse about lacking information after that... know any auto site that have good stuff about imports from the mid 80's?
    -MF
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
  • hink2hink2 Member Posts: 4
    You seem to have made up your mind. That's good. Not really worth too much effort worrying about it. Your Mazda will either continue to run on or it won't. Your current investment is nill, so you really can't lose. However, although your logic to keep the car is faultless, I suspect you wouldn't have minded some irrefutable counter logic that absolutely required you to seek its replacement. When I was in high school,a member of our class over and over again bought used cars from a local high volume new car dealer, paying not over $50- $100 each. The cars always came with a current inspection and lasted anywhere from several months to a year or more. He never did anything to them except for putting in gasoline. When they quit he sold them to a junk yard for $10 or $20 (if they towed them off for free) and just bought another. So, while the rest of us were polishing, hot rodding and repairing, he was out and about. Moral to this? There is an end to cars life, use it and end it. When its time to replace it, you will know it. As a practical suggestion, if a repair for your current car is quoted at over 2/3rds its current market value, seriously consider putting it permanently in the "Great Parking Lot". Usually, good used cars, aka pre-loved cars, can be had from relatives or parents of a friend. Usually they are too honest or would be too embarrassed to sell you a lemon.
  • mtsaimtsai Member Posts: 1
    My 626 es shudders in the speed range of 20-40 miles/hr, especially after driving for some distance. It occurs intermittently but more often now. Any idea on what causes the shaking? Could it be the transmission, brake, or cv joint and shaft? Thanks in advance for any explanation of the possible cause.
  • 34256550m34256550m Member Posts: 4
    I´ve changed the radiator cap and the problem disappeared.
    Thank you again qbrozen and maltb, you´ve been very kind sharing with me your thoughts.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    that it was a cheap fix.
  • 34423442 Member Posts: 7
    Changed oil and filter this evening and found out I have oil in the the front spark plug hole. Head gasket was changed by last owner at 60K due to oil in plug hole.Car now has 110K Anyone had that problem, and what was the cost to fix? I also have a suspicion that I might be losing anti- freeze due to the same problem, as it was alittle low. Thanks
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    It is the valve cover gasket.
    It is quite common on the V6s.
    Is it the center plug? If it is you may want to check the bolts to see if they are tight enough.
    If it is not torqued to specs, it may leak.
    It is not really a big problem even if you leave it like that, just that it will shorten the life of your plug wires.
    I think replacing the front side is not too bad, but if the rear side needs replacement, prepare to pay big bucks because the entire intake has to be removed. I paid $145 for parts and $245 for labor 4 years ago to replace both front and rear.
  • 34423442 Member Posts: 7
    Your right, the more I thought about it, it isn't the head gasket. Its the front bank and the end plug, so lookes like a lot less labor than the back bank. Stopped at the Mazda shop and he said it would run around $200.00. Thanks for the info.
  • freds5freds5 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 626 LX 4 Cyl, auto trans. I'm coming up on my 90k servicing. A local mechanic, who is very reliable and honest, said I should change the transmission fluid. I 've heard different things about getting it changed, whether to do it only at regular intervals - 2 yrs or 24k miles - or just drain it when it starts getting darker and dirtier. I'm not sure what to do, since some people have told me that new transmission fluid, not changed at regular intervals, will act as a varnish and strip the gears, while others say letting the fluid get old and dirty will lead to transmission failure. Anybody have any suggestions on which way to go. The car has been running fine, without any problems.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The real question is "How does it look?" If your current fluid is fairly indistinguishable from new fluid - clear, red, doesn't smell like it's been scraped off a grill - you're probably not on the Path to Destruction, but you still need to get on a schedule for changing it out. mrdetailer, a regular in these parts, thinks 15k is a more reasonable interval for this transmission, and I'm following his lead on my 2000.

    My own personal belief - this and $3.99 will get you a Combo Meal at participating locations for a limited time only - is that if a transmission fails right after a fluid change, it probably also would have failed had you not changed the fluid. Until Mr Peabody gets the WABAC machine working, though, I can't say for sure.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    for this reason like Windophobe mentioned I feel strongly about changing the tranny fluid regularly on the 4Cyl CD4E. Yours is one of the newer versions and should be stronger, but don't play with fate. My Son's 1977 had the first Solenoid fail to shift from first to second at 62K. A simple drain and fill with adding Lubegard stopped all problems in a week. I personally credit Lubegard with improving 3 of my transmissions over the years, and at least 3 others of friends as well.

    If you can't prove that it has been changed at least every 30K, then I would also drain and refill again in a year with Lubegard and every 15K after that. I checked out the TSB notices that Lubegard sent me, and they are real. www.lubegard.com

    We have transmission places that run specials where a drain and fill with a filter change costs about $50.00. Lubegard another $10-15. That maintenance cost every year or 2 sure beats a replacement.
  • oliverabcoliverabc Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 97' Mazda 626 LX, V6, 58K car, I am really scared by reading the posts that were talking about the transmission problems with Mazda 626. I had terrible experience on having my transmission rebuilt (92', Corolla, DX, auto, 88K). I know it is expensive. I don't want to see this happen to me again. Here I am asking for your advice on this Mazda 626. Do you have any idea about the liability of this model? Though I have paid the deposit, I know to rebuilt the transmission costs much more.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    You are purchasing a V6 model. The vast majority of the tranny problems are on the CD4E transmission which ONLY occurs on the 4 cyl models. The V6 transmission is much stronger.

    In particular, however I would ask when the fluid was changed, and check it yourself for color or smell. I would also do the drain/fill/Lubegard regimen twice, a year apart, then go every 30K between drain and fills and you will stand a much better chance of avoiding problems.

    While they don't have the largest motors, or do well off road (Tribute excepted) Mazdas are really a drivers car and a joy to take either at good speeds on the flat, or through twisty canyons.

    Have a mechanic review it for conditions and if good enjoy. It will be a good car for many years to come.
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    Check out this site for common problems for the V6.

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm


    Valve cover gasket is one of the common problems with the V6. Also, you need timing belt at 60k and it is an expensive job.

  • carbonnicarbonni Member Posts: 33
    My '96 Mazda 626 (4 cyl. auto) is doing something weird. When I turn on the (cold) engine and drive the car, the coolant indicator "climbs" to the normal operating level (half-way between cold and hot) really fast. Specifically, it takes less than 1 mile (or 3-4 minutes) to reach that level. Then it stays there (the engine is never overheated I guess, as the indicator stays at its mid-level). Has anyone experienced similar problems? Could this be an indication of a malfunction (like a bad radiator, thermostat, or even engine troubles)?

    The second issue is a combination of car mild vibration when in drive at stop lights and rpm fluctuation when the AC is cycling (noticeable only when the car is in drive at stop lights). Possible bad mounts may explain the car's vibration, but what about the rpm fluctuation which seems to be AC related?

    While I am here I would like to mention that I experienced many problems presented by others in this forum: rebuilt tranny, changed front struts, replaced cat. converter (warranty), CV-joints three times - as they did not fit well, valve cover gasket, fuel tank(!). Sad is that I did all these repairs in the last 18 months (I bought this car used)... Now my car has 72,000 miles, and I am very concerned about it.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Did it do this in February? In August, I'd expect the engine to get up to close to operating temperature rather quickly. Then again, oil temperature doesn't rise as quickly as coolant temperature, and the gauge, of course, is reading the latter.

    Any heavy electrical load will cause RPM fluctuation. If it's more than about 150 off (the spec on the '96 with automatic is 700), it might be worrisome, but a one-second flutter of the tach is just electrical compensation at work.

    It should be noted that the engine mounts have been substantially revised since the first appearance of this engine in 1993; I don't know exactly when they cut over to the new ones - I'd guess model year 1998 - but they're a whole lot beefier now.
  • carbonnicarbonni Member Posts: 33
    Thank you! As usual, your input is much appreciated. The AC-related rpm fluctuation does not exceed 150 units. The tach goes up and down once and that's it. What bothers me is the change in car vibration that occurs when this happens. It feels like the car's source of vibration moves within the engine compartment. The effect: the vibration moves from (let's say) the steering wheel to the driver's seat. I should probably have the mounts checked.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I think it's a great feature.
  • irishalchemistirishalchemist Member Posts: 152
    Dear All,

    I'm back after a while (a 2 month old baby does not leave much free time to tinker with the car...). Anyway, after driving for 20 minutes in city traffic the other day and finding a place to park, I started backing-and-forthing into the spot, and suddenly a good smaritan yelled 'Yo, your car's steaming!'. After my customary curse to the Mazda Gods, I finished parking, popped the hood, and yeah, coolant all over. So I started looking for a leak. Found drips from the splash, but no holes or cracks in the hoses. Everything was OK. Then I saw it. The little hose going from the radiator neck to the overflow tank had popped out. "Easy!", I thought. But my paranoia started right away - "Why did it pop?". Answer: The overflow tank is plugged. I pulled the hose, and sure enough, I blew air and the thing was shut. After I drove back, a friend of mine helped me to suck some of the stuff thorugh the hose - Man! There was so much crap in there!!! Dirt and sediment from the past 7 years!!! Anyhow, we got it to 'flow', but it's kind of touch-and-go. This weekend I'll have to clean the thing.

    The question after all this rambling: How do you get the overflow tank out (95 626, L4, auto)? It looks like the car is built around it!

    TIA,

    Guillermo
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    In msg# 1193, it was mentioned that the 5sp on the V6 has a fill plug.
    When I was at the dealer today trying to get some oil filters and the crush washers for the drain and fill plugs, the parts guy showed me a drawing which indicates that there is no fill plug and I have to remove the speed sensor to fill up the transmission.
    I wonder if the parts guy is showing the wrong drawing.
    Any idea?
    Thanks.
  • irishalchemistirishalchemist Member Posts: 152
    Well, did it this morning. FYI, the reservoir can come out through the wheel-well, after taking a small dust-shield towards the outside of the car (fastened to the left-bottom side of the body - Driver's side). Then, there are three screws, all #10's; two that go on to the engine bay (mounted vertically, one above the other), and the other one that appears right to the left of the battery (Driver's side). After that, just wiggle the whole thing downwards (making sure the you diconnected the hose to the overflow pipe), and that's it - 30 minutes to come out, including the time to figure it out.

    The tank was FULL of grit and grime!!! It's hard to open, and I did not wanted to break it, so I just washed it with soapy water until the water came out clean, then rinsed it several times with clean water, then distilled water, and that's it. A lot of 'marks' and blotches remain, but they are sort of permanent stuff that just make it look ugly (a lot of it can be even mold...). Then cleaned the tube, and then bolted everything back on. Easy.

    G.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Now why didn't I think of that?
  • okmomokmom Member Posts: 37
    I'm thinking to buy a used car for my two teenage girls.
    '99 Mazda 626 LX has 56K miles already. But comes w/ one year warranty by the dealer. (It was the rental car, so we assume it's good condition.)
    Other car we are considering is '01 Toyota Corolla LE. 33K miles on it and it's 2k$$ more than "99 mazda626.
    Which one is better deal if we like to keep it for next 5 years?
    Thanks.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    The Toyota is 2 years newer with only 33K (barely broken in) and only costs 2K more. If the price stays the same on the Mazda you will of course be much farther ahead with the Toyota. Of course it won't be as fun to drive as a Mazda.

    On a Mazda, baby the tranny if it's a 4cyl auto by changing oil at least every 2 years.

    On the Toyota of that age I would recommend an oil change every 3K to avoid potential sludging issues. (not common, but require a 5-7 thousand dollar overhaul if it occurs.)

    The truth every vehicle has strengths and weaknesses.
  • okmomokmom Member Posts: 37
    Thanks, mrdetailer.
    Corolla is smaller and doesn't have ABS.
    Our other cars have ABS.
    Kids are used to drive cars w/ABS.
    I don't know how much ABS makes different for safety, but I think it's better to have.
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    Did it over the weekend.
    There is actually a fill plug, but it is facing slightly downwards. Took me a while to figure that out.
    Put in Redline MT-90. No difference in shift quality though, which has always been good.
  • bmurphy5bmurphy5 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 626 2.0 4 cyl 626
    the idle is real low have tried to adjust it but cant get the screw to turn also lately when the a/c is on the car runs hot has NOT over heated lol because i turn it off helllllllp
  • yunfeizhouyunfeizhou Member Posts: 1
    My Mazda 626, 1995, LX, 4Cyl, 2.0L has just got a rebuilt transmission, but keep having oil leakage problem. The garage has tried for many times, still have not solved the problem. Today, they told me something wrong with the oil cooling system, when drive for some time, trany oil gets very hot, expands and leaks out from the breather. But when I get the car back tonite, it still leaks. I did see any oil come out from the breather. Could some give me some suggestions?
    Thanks
  • johnjay28johnjay28 Member Posts: 9
    1995 mazda 4 cyl a/t 626

    i noticed an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket. i was looking to see how much trouble it would be to remove the cover. there is an air condition line that runs over the top and i don't think there will be enough slack in it to allow the cover to be removed. will i have to remove the a/c compressor in order to get enough slack in the line to allow the valve cover to be removed. please advise. thanks, john
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I seem to have hit the Unsubscribe button at some point. (Nothing surprises me anymore, not even seeing three '95s in a row.)

    Pulling the valve cover gasket: I'd expect more trouble with the power-steering pump, which is mounted fairly close in.

    Cooling tranny oil: The "cooler" is a section within the radiator, and not enough of one, if you ask me. Have them add on an auxiliary cooler, or get another garage.

    Idle: Not adjustable. You can turn the mixture screw all you want and it won't change the computer's tiny mind one whit. If you're running hot with the A/C on, the electric fan array is probably not doing its job.
  • jpkiwijpkiwi Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1993 626 ES V6 stick (sounds like the stick is better from what I've read). Just got the timing belt done at 90k (figured I had used up my luck there), also the water pump, as it was leaking. I also had to get the axle replaced as I didn't notice a busted CV boot in time (axle part is $99, includes boot and joint). Also the front valve cover gasket.

    (By the way, if anybody lives in the Orlando FL area, I know a great mechanic for foreign cars, honest and reasonable. For example, I was quoted $1100 for a replacment A/C compressor from another place (my mechanic was in the hospital). I lived without A/C until he got out, and replaced the compressor for $250, and converted it to R-134).

    Anyhow, my issue is that the CV boots on this car keep wearing out, every 10,000 miles it seems. My mechanic says he could make a living changing CV boots for 626's. Does anyone else have this problem?
    Also, the car is still leaking water, but the symptoms have changed. It drips a lot when I start it up and start moving. I may have overfilled the emergency coolant, would that cause this?

    Other than the A/C and the @%#$$ CV boots, the car is great. I taught my wife to drive a stick, and she loves this car so much that I have to drive the mini-van!! (don't worry, I have a 92 Nissan Sentra for going to work - very economical..)
    Thanks
    J-P
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Typical lifetime of the CV boots, from what I've seen, seems to be 60k to 80k; I lost one boot on my '93 at 85k, and the second was on its way. Then again, I'm a long way from the ocean.

    If the overflow tank is overfull, yes, it can slosh stuff out of its top. (Normally, it should appear to be about half full.)
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    HI all,
    I have a 1993 mazda 626 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. Since the last 30,000 miles I have been putting Mobil 1 10w-30 Synthetic and I was wondering if this is bad for my car or even simply a waste of my money. It s just that I have not noticed a difference one way or the other, and infact someone told me that I should not be using synthetic oil in such a high mileage car. Thanks for any advice.

    Sabir.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Unless you want to pay for oil seal repairs. Synthetic cleans out the conventional oil deposits that keep the engine seals from leaking (pinholes). Then once it exposes the hole it gushes all over. Much more than a leak with conventional. It cost me some bucks to get that repair fixed since I had to do the timing belt as well. Conventional swells seals slightly, and while syn doesn't harden the seals, neither does it soften them.

    Seriously if it's been running synthetic before keep it up. But it it's been used to conventional I would drain out half of the synthetic and replace it with conventional.

    Never had a problem with seals on a 50--50 mix of Maxlife and synthetic. Get 2-3 gallons better on gas mileage too.
  • redapple2redapple2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 4 cyl auto 626 with 100,000 miles on it, and it has just developed a transmission fluid leak through the breather hose. The fluid does not look or smell burnt and there is no change in the performance of the car indicating slippage, but it still drips about a tablespoon of oil every 60 or 70 miles. I've been told it could be an overheating problem or it might be a worn or broken gasket inside the transmission. How many people have had the same problem and has anybody been able to find a solution?
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Anyone have any experience with the windshield defrost not working? On my 94 626 (which I bought used this summer) I've just discovered that no air comes out of the windshield defrost vents, no matter which button I push on the dash controls. Also, air always comes out of the dash vents, even if I turn off the little dial that is supposed to shut them off when that air in in the defrost or foot heat position.

    I can get air to come out of the foot vents. Seems to me some mechanism may be broken or out of adjsutment. Anyone here have any experience with this?

    Dave
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