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Well, if the stuff managed to get congealed, all manner of things could have been mangled inside that little slushbox.
I'm just surprised it worked at all with a fresh fill, I guess.
It seems that it's my turn to ask for help...
I love my 626 LX 2000, but one unpleasant feature makes me creazy: the wee-wee sound while you turning the steering wheel. I talked to a mechanic and he says that plastic cover on the wheel expends from the heat and touches the piece that doesn't move. He knows about this problem and even called Mazda but nobody knows how to fix this. So far I refuse to believe in the unfixability and was wondering if anybody has this?
Thanks!
There doesn't seem to be a TSB on this, either.
I have a "whine" coming from the engine area that varies with engine RPM. It varies from just audible to real annoying. It seems to get worse with the electrical system under load. Also under hard acceleration it's very loud. I think it's the alternator. If I rev the engine in park I hear it. The dealer, as usual, says that everything is working fine. My other 626, a 2001, same model, does not make any noise. What do you think? Could it be a defective alternator?
It really is starting to drive me crazy.
Tony
Of course, the transmission issue could be wholly unrelated, in which case you'll have two easy (one expensive) problems instead of one difficult one.
Anyway, I'm happy to see it's fixed, and better yet, fixed cheaply.
it except for one thing - when I try to adjust
the power seat UP, the engine starts to die, kinda like when you turn on the AC in an underpowered car. I tried to recreate the engine dying by turning on every other electrical component, but it only dies when the power seat is adjusted up.
Any thoughts? Could this be a belt related thing?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The bad news, of course, is that you have to pull out the seat either way.
I have a mazda 626 LX 4cyl. 5spd. and have about 222,000 miles on it. I bought it at 88,000 miles and have nevre replaced the O2 sensors on it.
I was wondering if you guys think it is waste of a money for me to go out and buy O2 sensors and have them installed, even with nothing wrong with the car. If I were to replace the O2 sensors then which ones should I buy and how much would it cost to me to replace them ??
Thanx all.
Given the year and mileage of the car, should I still go ahead and change it ??
(Define "scads of fuel"? Okay, how about worse than 22 mpg.)
Does this mean I should not chage, becasue I read somewhere that this should be part of a major tuneup. Thnx again.
After turning the key in the lock cylinder there is a delay before the alarm sounds. Locking/unlocking it a again several times shuts it off but it's quite annoying now.
The small door that covers the cylinder is recently broken off on the driver's side but same thing happens on passenger side. Any clues?
miles. Driving to work yesterday at about the 45 mile mark of my 50 mile commute, the dash lit up like a christmas tree and the car just died. Luckily, I was able to coast to the side of the expressway before becoming involved in an accident. I could not restart the car and after having it towed to the dealer I bought the car from, was told that they believed I had a "fried"
Power Control Module. Has anyone else out there experienced or heard of this being a problem with this car ? Any suggestions as to what could cause a unit like this to blow ? It's a $700.00
unit according to the dealer and I'd hate to be replacing one of these after every 50K miles. Hopefully, this part and the labor to install it will be covered under the 3yr/50k "bumper-to-bumper" warranty...any thoughts ???
DRLs run off the METER fuse, so that should be the first thing to check. The other things which might inhibit DRLs - parking-brake switch, a misaligned ignition switch - wouldn't have much effect on the gauge panel.
I happen to have a pcm for a calif/emission 96 626/auto trans on ebay that has all the technical updates if anyone is interested. I have another one for sale if anyone needs one as well.
Jts your trans problem sounds typical if you have a four cylinder. This trans unit does not work well in the 626 without additional help from an additional external cooler. I am assuming when you say it "wont shift into drive" you mean it wont move in "D" range. The fluid that was removed from your trans at the 60k service was probably better off staying in there. The replacement of the trans fluid at high miles(when the trans is working fine) seems to cause more damage for some reason. Of course your dealer wont tell you that......
Meanwhile, I've found that a quick locking-unlocking-relocking disarms the alarm yet locks all doors.
trans would not go in any position including rev. replaced the range sensor / switch inhibtor and the tranny works in reverse and in all fwd positions but only in first gear.what could be causing this.how could i pull the codes on this vehicle. i beleive that it has the EEC-IV system. thanks, john
After it is warm it drives okay, but it will surge when leaving a stop sign (and sometimes backfire once) or on the highway when I hit 50 MPH (80 KPH). The CEL comes on too.
I took it in to have the codes read and the codes were:
172- O2 not switching bank 1
181- cruise limit bank 1 still lean
Before having the codes read, I replaced the O2 sensor and cleared the computer about 2 months ago. I have also replaced the sparkplug wires.
After seeing these codes, I also replaced the fuel filter, as the mechanic thought it might be that, or perhaps the fuel pump (which I haven't done).
My next step is to clean the Mass Air Filter with throttle cleaner (apparently carb cleaner is too harsh) and see what happens.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated, if someone can tell me where I can focus my attention, based on the codes that came up.
Thanks in advance!
I doubt it's the fuel pump: you'd more likely get an error for fuel pressure - although the fuel pressure regulator becomes a possible culprit.
And check the idle air control valve while you're at it.
Good luck,
G.
I'm new to the 626 board, but I'm hoping you can give me some advice. I am looking at 2001 626 V6 ES w/ 5 spd. It has about 18,400 miles, dealer is asking $14K (although I know I can get it for less). It drives fine, except the clutch is a little abrupt engaging - but that may be my fault, I'm just not used to that clutch. Also, when the engine is on and the car is sitting still with my foot on the brake, there is a hissing sound coming from under the driver's side dash - it stops when I take my foot off the brake.
Are the abrupt clutch and hissing brake sounds normal? Is there anything else I should be on the lookout for, or are there other problems that you owners have encountered? I'm going to take it to my mechanic for a thorough once-over, but I'd like feedback from real 626 owners if possible.
Thanks in advance.
626 clutches have never been perfectly linear, though they seem easy enough to get used to. Did the shifter suit you? Some people (including the Edmunds.com reviewer) truly hate it.
Next step will be to clean the throttle body and check the for leaks from the valve cover gasket. Last time I change the plugs, I did recall oil in the number one plug well, so maybe there is a leak into the spark plug. Thanks for all the help so far.
One more thing you may want to check is the air filter. When I changed VCG, plugs, wires, and cleaned the MAF, I also changed the air filter - There was a penny inside the air filter housing. Wonder how it got sucked into it. Also, looking at the plugs (or looking for oil in the wells) may help. If the plugs have weak spark the computer may be going crazy (although you should get something related to a rich mixture, right?). Anyway, good luck. I found that figuring out what was causing the CEL to light up was very educational, but extremely annoying...
Cheers, G.
As for the clutch, was it engaging quickly on the entire drive, or just when you started out? Mine "grabs" rather quickly (like wet brakes do) when starting out after sitting for a couple days, or when the humidity is high. Usually only lasts for the first few shifts though.
windowphobe6, I consider my clutch/tranny/shifter to be "average", as I've certainly driven better and worse in the past. The shifter is a bit sloppy for attempting very quick throws, and I completely agree that the clutch isn't perfectly linear. I'm also sensing that my 1-2 synchro is getting worn a bit too fast, despite the fact that I rarely do much hard driving, always think about shifting smoothly, and never downshift instead of braking. I'm hoping I don't end up having to double-clutch the 1-2 shift or abandon 1st gear entirely, like those folks that abuse their standard shift transmissions!
As for the clutch, I suspect the problem is that I'm not used to it but, again, I'll have a mechanic take a look at it.
Slickdog, since your car and this one are so similar, have you encountered any problems that I should specifically look for?
Thanks.
I've only had a few (minor) problems with my car since driving it off the lot:
- During it's first winter I noticed a tapping sound in the rear of the car when starting out in the morning, which would disappear in the first couple miles. The dealer couldn't reproduce the problem when I took it in, then I saw a TSB which seemed relevant, but I haven't noticed it much this winter so I've been debating whether or not to bother taking the car in again.
- Early last summer my serpentine belt started squealing for several seconds just after turning on the A/C if the engine speed was greater than ~2000 rpm. The dealer blamed the belt, installed a new one, no problems since.
- At around 18K miles, I noticed a slight clicking sound from my front wheels, and some signs that the rotors were warping. The dealer machined my rotors for no charge, and so far the problem hasn't resurfaced (~10K miles later). I suspect that a mechanic may have cuased the problem by over-torquing my wheel lugs, becuase I found them that way after I got the car back from it's brake job! I'm hoping it wasn't the result of poorly designed rotors as is the case with my wife's Taurus (it needs a brake job every 15K miles!).
- I'm on my third set of vinyl shift/park brake lever boots, because they keep tearing through in several places during the cold weather. The dealer keeps replacing them under warranty, and telling me I'm the only one with that problem, but it's obviously just poor quality vinyl. The ES has leather instead of vinyl, so this shouldn't apply to the car you're considering. I'm trying to talk the dealer into giving me leather too, but they won't agree to it.
Overall, I'm very pleased with the car. Most of the problems have merely been an annoyance, and the dealer has been very accomodating overall. By contrast, my wife's Taurus has been plagued by several minor and major problems during it's lifetime, many of which were very costly to fix. She always wants to take my Mazda instead of her Ford when leaving the house, and I don't blame her!