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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check out the part in post #1361 about the condition of the fluid he drained out. :o(
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    And, I repeat: "Yech".

    Well, if the stuff managed to get congealed, all manner of things could have been mangled inside that little slushbox.

    I'm just surprised it worked at all with a fresh fill, I guess.
  • korchmakorchma Member Posts: 12
    Hello everybody!
    It seems that it's my turn to ask for help...
    I love my 626 LX 2000, but one unpleasant feature makes me creazy: the wee-wee sound while you turning the steering wheel. I talked to a mechanic and he says that plastic cover on the wheel expends from the heat and touches the piece that doesn't move. He knows about this problem and even called Mazda but nobody knows how to fix this. So far I refuse to believe in the unfixability and was wondering if anybody has this?

    Thanks!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It's not so difficult to pull that cover, but then you're stuck guessing exactly where it's making contact - unless there's a spot that's obviously worn. A lot of people have reported this on a lot of different cars; I suspect it's just the tolerances adding up in the wrong direction.

    There doesn't seem to be a TSB on this, either.
  • tdreotdreo Member Posts: 17
    2002 626 LX 4 Cylinder Automatic with 3K miles:
    I have a "whine" coming from the engine area that varies with engine RPM. It varies from just audible to real annoying. It seems to get worse with the electrical system under load. Also under hard acceleration it's very loud. I think it's the alternator. If I rev the engine in park I hear it. The dealer, as usual, says that everything is working fine. My other 626, a 2001, same model, does not make any noise. What do you think? Could it be a defective alternator?
    It really is starting to drive me crazy.

    Tony
  • izzy3269aizzy3269a Member Posts: 6
    The dash panel on my '94 626 is dead. The Check Engine Light, Brake Light, etc. are all dead when I turn on the ignition. However, I can start the car, turn on the headlights, but I can't shift into reverse. Any ideas as to which fuse is blown, or what the problem may be? Thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I'm thinking more likely the belt than the alternator itself. Make them retension it and see if the noise goes away.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    When the gauges go, it's usually the METER fuse, which on my car at least is 10 amps (red). This in itself would not affect the transmission, so I'm going out on a limb here and speculating that the shift linkage got out of whack, in the process causing the shift-indicator gizmo to turn to slag, which in turn took out the METER fuse for the gauge panel. The alternative is that the IG KEY fuse in the main fuse block under the dash is messed up, which would affect the METER circuit, but it seems to me that if IG KEY were bad, you wouldn't be able to start.

    Of course, the transmission issue could be wholly unrelated, in which case you'll have two easy (one expensive) problems instead of one difficult one.
  • izzy3269aizzy3269a Member Posts: 6
    Yes it was the METER fuse. When this blows, it also locks the the gear shift. You can override the lock, by putting a spare key into the lock to the right of the shifter. Thanks for your help
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Doesn't do that on the newer ones. On the other hand, they don't have the key-lock by the shifter either.

    Anyway, I'm happy to see it's fixed, and better yet, fixed cheaply. :)
  • johnjay28johnjay28 Member Posts: 9
    1st msg 1361.1995 mazda 626 4 cyl auto the 1st problem was the trans would not respond to any selection from rev. to 1. i replaced the transaxle range sensor and now the tranny responds to all settings. the new problem is while in park when i rev the engine to about 2k rpm when i release the pedal it takes around 6 sec. for the rms to drop. when i put it in rev. the rpms drop to below 600 rpms and at times the engine dies.when it doesn't die and stays running, and i select rev. or drive with the hand brake on the trans. will engage and disengage on it's own every five or ten seconds. i am afraid to drive it in order to get the codes pulled. the way haynes repair manual says to do it does not work on my 1995 model. does anyone know how to pull these codes. the cel does not come on but the od light flashes once in a while. any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks, john
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    I was driving my mpv the other day and when I came to a stop, the radio shut off. I also noticed There was no indication of what gear it was in as I shifted into park. From that point I could not shift back out of park. I think it was the "cigar" fuse I found that was burnt. After seeing that, I immediately looked up to find a shiny new penny that my two year old daughter decided to deposit in the lighter socket. I'm glad it happened while I was driving and not while the nanny or wife was with the kids!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Think throttle-position sensor. (And think tow truck.)
  • manirbanmanirban Member Posts: 1
    Just got a '99 626 LX AT - pretty happy with
    it except for one thing - when I try to adjust
    the power seat UP, the engine starts to die, kinda like when you turn on the AC in an underpowered car. I tried to recreate the engine dying by turning on every other electrical component, but it only dies when the power seat is adjusted up.

    Any thoughts? Could this be a belt related thing?
    Thanks.
  • purifyerpurifyer Member Posts: 5
    My '91 626 has bad CV boots and joints. They pop when I turn. I know I need to replace the boots and probably the shaft as well. My questions: How hard is a repair like this for the average home mechanic? Should I bite the bullet and pay a certified care repair shop to do it? What's an average cost for this type of work?
    Thanks.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    If you're going to do it yourself, just replace the entire shaft. By the noise you described that's what you need to do anyway.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It's relatively DIYable; the trick is to remember to plug the transaxle as you pull out the halfshaft, so the differential side gear doesn't roll out of position. I don't think you have to do nasty things like pull engine mounts on the '91s. Out here on the Lone Prairie, a rebuilt axle with fresh boots is under a hundred bucks.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    If the other functions are normal, I'd blame the switch before the motor.

    The bad news, of course, is that you have to pull out the seat either way.
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a mazda 626 LX 4cyl. 5spd. and have about 222,000 miles on it. I bought it at 88,000 miles and have nevre replaced the O2 sensors on it.

    I was wondering if you guys think it is waste of a money for me to go out and buy O2 sensors and have them installed, even with nothing wrong with the car. If I were to replace the O2 sensors then which ones should I buy and how much would it cost to me to replace them ??

    Thanx all.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    No sense spending the money to fix it. And OEM sensors are pricey; you didn't specify what year 626 you have, but at least some models will work with so-called "universal" sensors if you save the connector from the original factory sensor and reuse it.
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Thnx for the quick reply,
    Given the year and mileage of the car, should I still go ahead and change it ??
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    If you're not burning scads of fuel, you probably don't need the new sensor. On the other hand, I've never before heard of one lasting this long, but almost anything is possible on a '93.

    (Define "scads of fuel"? Okay, how about worse than 22 mpg.)
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Actually I get pretty good mileage on the car. About 420 miles per tank ( I think about 13 gallons) per fill up.
    Does this mean I should not chage, becasue I read somewhere that this should be part of a major tuneup. Thnx again.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Change the plugs once in a while, the plug wires every few years, and the timing belt at 60k, and there's no need to pay for some "major tuneup" package.
  • phroadrickphroadrick Member Posts: 14
    Hello everyone. I have a 99 ES V6 Auto and had to have some of the dash panel bulbs replaced just after I bought the car. That was no problem. However, when I got the car back, my daytime running lights don't work now. Asked the mechanic and he says no correlation. Any suggestions? (also, some of the bulbs behind the tach are still out) Thanks!
  • skadietskadiet Member Posts: 2
    '93 626 ES w/ factory alarm. The alarm goes off now nearly every time I unlock it. Started doing this a few months ago regardless of the key I use.

    After turning the key in the lock cylinder there is a delay before the alarm sounds. Locking/unlocking it a again several times shuts it off but it's quite annoying now.

    The small door that covers the cylinder is recently broken off on the driver's side but same thing happens on passenger side. Any clues?
  • jimherndonjimherndon Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a new leftover 2000 Mazda 626 LX with the V6 & 5 speed trans in May of 2001. I commute a fair distance, so I have already put on 49,600
    miles. Driving to work yesterday at about the 45 mile mark of my 50 mile commute, the dash lit up like a christmas tree and the car just died. Luckily, I was able to coast to the side of the expressway before becoming involved in an accident. I could not restart the car and after having it towed to the dealer I bought the car from, was told that they believed I had a "fried"
    Power Control Module. Has anyone else out there experienced or heard of this being a problem with this car ? Any suggestions as to what could cause a unit like this to blow ? It's a $700.00
    unit according to the dealer and I'd hate to be replacing one of these after every 50K miles. Hopefully, this part and the labor to install it will be covered under the 3yr/50k "bumper-to-bumper" warranty...any thoughts ???
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    As a longtime DRL hater, I'd like to tell you that I paid off the guy to kill them, but t'ain't so.

    DRLs run off the METER fuse, so that should be the first thing to check. The other things which might inhibit DRLs - parking-brake switch, a misaligned ignition switch - wouldn't have much effect on the gauge panel.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It's not especially common, but any computer (and that's all this thing is) can fail, and the timing of the failure always seems to be geared toward maximum inconvenience. The prices seem to be coming down, though; the PCM on my '93 was priced at a stiff $1700.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Condensation inside the lock cylinders can make the alarm go nuts. You might consider replacing the cylinders, especially since the little snap-guard is broken on one door, but first see if it responds to a graphite treatment (squeeze a bit onto the key, insert, do some hokey-pokey, wipe off any spillage).
  • jts7896jts7896 Member Posts: 3
    My car won't shift into drive when it's cold. It didn't do this last winter. It's starting to happen with some frequency -Even when I let it warm up for several minutes. I just had the transmission fluid changed out and my 60,000 mile maintenance performed two months ago. Ever hear of cold causing transmission problems?
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    The pcm is warranted for 8yr/80k on every mazda. Pcm failure is rare, and I would expect that you wouldnt have another problem unless there is an outside condition causing the failure.(water leak, spilled soda etc.,)
    I happen to have a pcm for a calif/emission 96 626/auto trans on ebay that has all the technical updates if anyone is interested. I have another one for sale if anyone needs one as well.
    Jts your trans problem sounds typical if you have a four cylinder. This trans unit does not work well in the 626 without additional help from an additional external cooler. I am assuming when you say it "wont shift into drive" you mean it wont move in "D" range. The fluid that was removed from your trans at the 60k service was probably better off staying in there. The replacement of the trans fluid at high miles(when the trans is working fine) seems to cause more damage for some reason. Of course your dealer wont tell you that......
  • phroadrickphroadrick Member Posts: 14
    I don't necessarily have any plans to fix the DRL's but was curious how to if I decided to. I will probably get adventurous some weekend and try to replace the panel bulbs behind the tach. Really appreciate your reply!
  • skadietskadiet Member Posts: 2
    I'll try disassembly. I kind of figured condensation may be a cause.

    Meanwhile, I've found that a quick locking-unlocking-relocking disarms the alarm yet locks all doors.
  • johnjay28johnjay28 Member Posts: 9
    1995 626 4cyl. VIN # 1YVGE22C0S5404418
    trans would not go in any position including rev. replaced the range sensor / switch inhibtor and the tranny works in reverse and in all fwd positions but only in first gear.what could be causing this.how could i pull the codes on this vehicle. i beleive that it has the EEC-IV system. thanks, john
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Pretty sure the '95 is OBD-II compliant, which means a scan tool is required for code retrieval. The emission sticker under the hood will state either OBD or OBD-II. Another way to tell OBD-II is a 16 pin, 2 row connector below the dash for scan tool plug in. The no shift could be a vehicle speed sensor circuit problem or range switch misadjustment.
  • jts7896jts7896 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply johnjay. I think I'm going to trade it in for a Toyota or Honda...Everybody says those last forever.
  • izzy3269aizzy3269a Member Posts: 6
    Here's the story. If I start my '94 626 in the morning, I can only drive it if I don't apply any gas and let the idle carry me along. After a few minutes, the engine warms enough so that I can give it some gas and go. Therefore, I have to warm up the car first, rather than just go from a cold start.

    After it is warm it drives okay, but it will surge when leaving a stop sign (and sometimes backfire once) or on the highway when I hit 50 MPH (80 KPH). The CEL comes on too.

    I took it in to have the codes read and the codes were:

    172- O2 not switching bank 1
    181- cruise limit bank 1 still lean

    Before having the codes read, I replaced the O2 sensor and cleared the computer about 2 months ago. I have also replaced the sparkplug wires.

    After seeing these codes, I also replaced the fuel filter, as the mechanic thought it might be that, or perhaps the fuel pump (which I haven't done).

    My next step is to clean the Mass Air Filter with throttle cleaner (apparently carb cleaner is too harsh) and see what happens.

    Any other suggestions would be appreciated, if someone can tell me where I can focus my attention, based on the codes that came up.

    Thanks in advance!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The throttle body itself could have picked up some crud and may be due for a cleaning.

    I doubt it's the fuel pump: you'd more likely get an error for fuel pressure - although the fuel pressure regulator becomes a possible culprit.
     
    And check the idle air control valve while you're at it.
  • irishalchemistirishalchemist Member Posts: 152
    I had the same 181 code with my 95 626/LX/4L. I think the computer is the EEC-IV from Ford in both the 94 and 95. I my case, it lit the CEL when under load (speeding up up hill, for example). I did a 'complete' tune up, which included changing the valve cover gasket (it was leaking and oil was getting to the plugs). So I changed that, the plugs and wires, I cleaned the MAF (be REAL CAREFUL IF YOU TRY THIS!!!), and I cleaned the throttle body. Hasn't done it since (May of 2002). I had changed the O2 sensor also before that, what it was basically 'killing the messenger'. I spent total ~150 bucks for all the parts.

    Good luck,

    G.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    the 181 code is turned on by a lean condition. The two biggest causes of 181 are a faulty air flow meter, and/or leaking intake gasket. I am not sure if "FREEZE FRAME" data is stored on a 94 626, but if it is, a faulty intake gasket usually triggers the code at idle, and a faulty air flow mete usuall triggers the code at speed.
  • kent68kent68 Member Posts: 6
    Hi all,

    I'm new to the 626 board, but I'm hoping you can give me some advice. I am looking at 2001 626 V6 ES w/ 5 spd. It has about 18,400 miles, dealer is asking $14K (although I know I can get it for less). It drives fine, except the clutch is a little abrupt engaging - but that may be my fault, I'm just not used to that clutch. Also, when the engine is on and the car is sitting still with my foot on the brake, there is a hissing sound coming from under the driver's side dash - it stops when I take my foot off the brake.

    Are the abrupt clutch and hissing brake sounds normal? Is there anything else I should be on the lookout for, or are there other problems that you owners have encountered? I'm going to take it to my mechanic for a thorough once-over, but I'd like feedback from real 626 owners if possible.

    Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Mazda's had a problem with the ducting between the airflow meter and throttle body cracking, allowing unmetered air into the engine. Remove and carefully check the ducting for any cracks or other damage.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I'm going to assume that the brake hiss is probably from the ABS system, since I don't have it and I don't have ABS.

    626 clutches have never been perfectly linear, though they seem easy enough to get used to. Did the shifter suit you? Some people (including the Edmunds.com reviewer) truly hate it.
  • izzy3269aizzy3269a Member Posts: 6
    I cleaned the MAF and checked the the ducting between the airflow meter and throttle body. The duct seems okay. I reset the computer and it still surges on the highway, but not when leaving a full stop. I only ran it 4 or 5 miles, so I will let the computer reset itself. The CEL lit up when going up up hill, but then went out.

    Next step will be to clean the throttle body and check the for leaks from the valve cover gasket. Last time I change the plugs, I did recall oil in the number one plug well, so maybe there is a leak into the spark plug. Thanks for all the help so far.
  • irishalchemistirishalchemist Member Posts: 152
    I had similarly discouraging results when I first started figuring out the CEL problem in my 95 - Spent some time working on the O2 sensor, reset the computer, and it was fine for a day, then the CEL came back up (you can read all about this if you go back to messages 900-950 or so).

    One more thing you may want to check is the air filter. When I changed VCG, plugs, wires, and cleaned the MAF, I also changed the air filter - There was a penny inside the air filter housing. Wonder how it got sucked into it. Also, looking at the plugs (or looking for oil in the wells) may help. If the plugs have weak spark the computer may be going crazy (although you should get something related to a rich mixture, right?). Anyway, good luck. I found that figuring out what was causing the CEL to light up was very educational, but extremely annoying...

    Cheers, G.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've got a '00 LX-V6, and don't have the hissing brake problem, but perhaps it's from the ABS system as windowphobe6 suggested. Most power brake systems do use vacuum to reduce pedal effort, so I suppose it could be a vacuum leak that you hear, although that would seem unusual for a newer vehicle.

    As for the clutch, was it engaging quickly on the entire drive, or just when you started out? Mine "grabs" rather quickly (like wet brakes do) when starting out after sitting for a couple days, or when the humidity is high. Usually only lasts for the first few shifts though.

    windowphobe6, I consider my clutch/tranny/shifter to be "average", as I've certainly driven better and worse in the past. The shifter is a bit sloppy for attempting very quick throws, and I completely agree that the clutch isn't perfectly linear. I'm also sensing that my 1-2 synchro is getting worn a bit too fast, despite the fact that I rarely do much hard driving, always think about shifting smoothly, and never downshift instead of braking. I'm hoping I don't end up having to double-clutch the 1-2 shift or abandon 1st gear entirely, like those folks that abuse their standard shift transmissions!
  • kent68kent68 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the feedback windowphobe6 and slick dog. When I first heard the hissing, my first thought was ABS, but this car doesn't have it - ABS/TCS was an option that the previous owner didn't purchase. I guess it may be a vacuum leak, I haven't taken it to the mechanic yet to find out (the dealer has policy of having to put a deposit on the car before taking a car to mechanic - this issue has been a bit of a sticking point for he and I).

    As for the clutch, I suspect the problem is that I'm not used to it but, again, I'll have a mechanic take a look at it.

    Slickdog, since your car and this one are so similar, have you encountered any problems that I should specifically look for?

    Thanks.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Good luck with your dealer, kent68. If you ever get to the bottom of the hissing, please share.

    I've only had a few (minor) problems with my car since driving it off the lot:

    - During it's first winter I noticed a tapping sound in the rear of the car when starting out in the morning, which would disappear in the first couple miles. The dealer couldn't reproduce the problem when I took it in, then I saw a TSB which seemed relevant, but I haven't noticed it much this winter so I've been debating whether or not to bother taking the car in again.

    - Early last summer my serpentine belt started squealing for several seconds just after turning on the A/C if the engine speed was greater than ~2000 rpm. The dealer blamed the belt, installed a new one, no problems since.

    - At around 18K miles, I noticed a slight clicking sound from my front wheels, and some signs that the rotors were warping. The dealer machined my rotors for no charge, and so far the problem hasn't resurfaced (~10K miles later). I suspect that a mechanic may have cuased the problem by over-torquing my wheel lugs, becuase I found them that way after I got the car back from it's brake job! I'm hoping it wasn't the result of poorly designed rotors as is the case with my wife's Taurus (it needs a brake job every 15K miles!).

    - I'm on my third set of vinyl shift/park brake lever boots, because they keep tearing through in several places during the cold weather. The dealer keeps replacing them under warranty, and telling me I'm the only one with that problem, but it's obviously just poor quality vinyl. The ES has leather instead of vinyl, so this shouldn't apply to the car you're considering. I'm trying to talk the dealer into giving me leather too, but they won't agree to it.

    Overall, I'm very pleased with the car. Most of the problems have merely been an annoyance, and the dealer has been very accomodating overall. By contrast, my wife's Taurus has been plagued by several minor and major problems during it's lifetime, many of which were very costly to fix. She always wants to take my Mazda instead of her Ford when leaving the house, and I don't blame her!
  • johnjay28johnjay28 Member Posts: 9
    i changed the fluid which looked brownish. is there a way to check that fluid is flowing from the tranny to the radiator and back ? i was thinking of removing one of the hoses and cranking the engine without the coil wire. would this work or would i need more rpm? what would be the psi from the hose? thanks for your help in advance, john
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