Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I 'sucked and filled' my tranny's fluid last year (no pan to drop in the CD4E), and the first time I did this the fluid did not look great either. Brownish and smelt acrid. After 5 times of this 'suck and fill', I got almost 80% new fluid in the ATX, and now it's a nice color.
G.
It has done that before, but usually after few
attempts it goes ok.
This morning it didn't for more then 25 minutes (still doesn't).
Thanks again to all for the help.
I can't shift into the 1st and 2ed gears. But the other gears works fine. I can start the car on 3rd gear slowly and drive it.
What could be the problem?
1. Is there a chance I could dislodge any varnish from a rebuild if I go back to flushing out the tranny, or is the junk removed when they rebuild it?
2. the Lubeguard you talk about; do I pick that up at a store, or is that something Jiffy Lube would have as part of their flush package?
3. Do I need to ask Jiffy lube if they have the GF-4? fluid? I noticed that there were comments regarding the 4 or 5 ATF.
As you can tell by my pen name, I am eagerly awaiting GM to bring over the Malibu Maxx wagon. I actually considered looking at the 6's wagon, but it won't be here for a while, and I have some serious concerns about the Mazda 6's design. Anyway, no more Mazda's for me; that's for certain.
I was quoted a $2500 bill for 02 sensor replacement, new PCM and CAT (whatever that is). Since I have a little over 50K miles, am I still under emission warranty? Or do I have to foot the bill for this one? Is this problem considered emissions-related for warranty purposes? My mechanic found a TSB for this problem (F 01 005/98), as well as a recall involving 1998s that a PCM programming error could trigger an overlean condition that could lead to engine stall. Sounds like lots of other folks have had similar problems. For day-to-day city driving, my 626 is performing fine, but obviously I would love to get this problem fixed for good (plus I need a smog check this year and I doubt I would pass this year with emission-related problems).
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Despite some advice given on this webpage, mine (as a 6 year 626 owner who has seen it all) and a long time Toyota owner, would be to dump this car. With our economy in the tank, it is a great time to pick up a Camry or Accord at a great price with low financing. It makes me cringe when I see any 626 owner talk about "fixing" their car. That is like throwing your money into AOL stock....a very bad investment. We all need to wise up to the fact that Ford has duped us all. The sooner we quit rationalizing our bad decision, the sooner we can get into a more reliable Japanese built car.
You can buy Lubegard at retail. ATF-wise, this is a Ford box, so look for something meeting the Mercon specs.
That Chevy does look pretty interesting, I admit.
1. my car "has some minor bucking to it". I was told that is a symptom of O2 sensors, not Cat converter.
2. I was told that when the cat converter starts to go, I will not be able to start/run the car at all. Is this true?
3. I will be getting an emissions inspection soon. Will the dynamometer test reveal any hints as to whether the O2 or cat is failing?
minor bucking can be a number of things. Spark plugs, wires, cap&rotor etc., all are prime suspects for such a problem. And it's not enough to just replace these parts with parts found at pepboys, you need OEM parts. The airflow meter on your car can cause hesitation and some minor bucking as well. Usually a code is present for that situation(P0171). O2 sensors could cause similar problems, but again, a code would be present that tells you the sensor is bad before you could ever notice a problem.
A clogged converter will inhibit performance, but any problem that would cause a clogged converter(typically raw fuel entering the exhaust) would cause a check engine light to come on for whatever reason the fuel was getting by. Unburnt fuel would mean a misfire and each cylinder is monitored for that scenario.
If the converter becomes worn out-and they do- it is possible that you would never have a drivability problem at all. Whats taking place in the converter is only for emmissions purposes, and does not affect actual engine performance. However, if the cat is bad, you will not pass an emissions test. The code P0421 tells you that the cat is not performing properly and it needs replacement. This is why in the near future various states that have an emissions testing program will do away with sticking a tube up your tailpipe and will only be looking at the cars computer. These cars monitor themselves. The test station will check to see if your car has any of the code #'s present that fall under the federal or state guidelines for emissions failure and then you will have to make neccessary repairs. Dont think about having the codes erased and running down to the inspection station because that will not work. Your vehicle knows when its codes have been cleared and knows it needs ample time to recheck itself. Until all systems have been rechecked, it puts out a P1000 code that indicates more time is needed to perform tests. Your car will not pass any state or federal program's test with that code.
hope this helps and try to remember that the corner garage is way behind the dealers diagnostic capabilities.
The P1130 code indicates that the pcm is trying to compensate for the lean condition but cannot correct it. This code is a result of an O2 sensor not switching, but it seems to be working as it should. In other words, the O2 sensor is doing something that it shouldnt be doing, but only as a result of another components failure. Most likely the air flow meter. A clogged fuel filter or injectors have also been known to create extreme lean conditions so make sure your filter is/has been changed.
P0300 indicates a random misfire and can be a result of an extreme intake gasket leak in one area.
Without the proper diagnostic equipment or the knowledge to use it, these codes could have your mechanic selling you lots of parts you dont need. I cant stress enough that the dealer is the best place to bring you car for such problems. I see so many cars come in with aftermarket O2 sensors and similar items, and then the customer has to pay me to diag it properly and put in the correct parts.
Thanks
My 95 L4 626 ATX with 85K miles has consumed ~1 quart of oil since it's last oil change (5K miles ago...). I have been using Valvoline full synthetic in the last 3 oil changes (~15K miles). The strange things are:
a) It had never conusmed a drop - The dip-stick was always near the full mark before each of the previous three oil changes.
b) I have not smelled burnt oil since I changed the valve cover gasket a while back, and I cannot see any oil smoke coming from the exhaust. There are no leaks in the driveway either, and the collant has no oil.
c) The car is running great, and neither my wife or me have noticed any lack of power, etc., etc..
After looking on the web, my only (cheap) explanation is that I made a big mistake by changing the Mazda PCV valve with an aftermarket 3 dollar item right before the last oil change. Aparently these are the cause for increased oil consumption due to the flakiness of the aftermarket PCV valves.
Could this be the case here, or should I start preparing myself for more trouble down the road?
Many thanks in advance,
G.
G.
1. Sit in the driver's seat, driver's door open, all others closed.
2. Do this three times: insert key, turn to "on" position, turn to "off" position, remove key.
3. Push the driver's door ajar switch three times. Car will chime.
4. Push any button on the 1st remote twice. Car will chime.
5. Push any button on 2nd remote twice. Car will chime.
6. Wait three seconds. Press door ajar switch one time. Car will chime.
7. Remotes are now programmed.
Note: Any previous remotes will no longer operate on this vehicle.
I hope this helps.
I posted message # 1395 to this board back in January and the outcome to that inquiry was that the dealer I purchased the car from replaced the PCM at no charge because my 2000 626 V6 was still just under the warranty period at 49,500 miles.
The dealer stated that they could not get any error codes or get the car to start so they just replaced the PCM to get it running again. The first week of March, the car stalled again on the highway. This time I was able to start it (after several tries) and made it to work. I went out after work to start the car and it would not start. The next morning I had the car towed to the dealer again. At the dealership they were able to start the car and they kept it for 4 days.
The mechanic at that time told me that he could not re-create my problem and without any error codes, had no idea what was wrong with my car. Comforting thought huh ? Anyhow, I picked my car up again and this past week, the check engine light came on and the car started to run rough and felt like it was trying to stall out again.
Back to the dealer for a THIRD time for the same problem ! This time I was told that I needed the
Idle Air Control Valve & Gasket replaced...to the tune of $ 650 !!! You see, now my vehicle has 54,000 miles and is out of warranty. I argued that the problem first occurred while the car was still under warranty. Mazda has finally agreed to pick up the tab for the part, BUT the dealer wants to charge me $ 160 for the labor. They are also telling me that I won't get my car back for a week because they need to wait for the part and that a loaner car is not available. Is this how any of you other Mazda owners are treated by your dealership ??? A friend of mine told me that this should be covered under an emissions warranty - that this warranty runs for a longer period of time & miles...does anyone have any specifics on the emissions warranty for this model ? Is this a common problem on these vehicles ? Thanks everyone for your help !
Jim
How many miles on your 96 now ? Have you had any other problems with your Mazda ?
Thanks,
Jim
The main symptom is severe engine stumbling and hesitation at idle and when accellerating. The check engine light comes on occassionally, and the codes indicate too rich a fuel mixture.
The car was taken to the dealer three times, and each time the mechanics replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires. The #1 plug was consistently carbon fouled every 6 months. New wires and plugs would help for a short while.
The problem has gotten much worse. The plugs foul within weeks, and all the chambers are effected. The new plugs only lessen the hesitation now.
Over the weekend I checked the color of the spark on the plugs, and noticed it was orange rather than blue. I swapped out the coil with a new one, but it didn't help.
Any ideas on what is happening?
-Ty
As for whats covered above and beyond the 3yr 50k warranty, the catalytic converter and the PCM are all covered up to 8yrs or 80k miles.
I think I may have found the root cause of the problem, though. I searched some of the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) yesterday and ran across SB614906, which can be found at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/TSBScans/sb614906.pdf
The TSB states that rough idle and hesitation during acceleration on '98 to '01 626s can be attributed to a leaking intake manifold gasket. The symptoms identified in the TSB match what is happening with this particular 626, and the VIN number falls under the ones covered by the TSB. Since this TSB was issued on 10/18/00, and two separate dealerships identified and documented the problem but failed to fix it properly while under warranty, my friend is going to insist the TSB be performed without cost. I think he has a good case.
-Ty
i recently bought a used 626, and i took it for a long trip. when i was using the cruise control on the highway, the car would occasionally come out of gear, and the stick would pop in to neutral. i only noticed this happening when i used cruise control. does this seem like a serious problem, or is it nothing to worry about? otherwise, everything else in the car runs perfectly.
thanks,
chris
We just bought a 2002 626 LX three days ago. Didn't notice it at first, but I am really bothered by the whistling noise I hear while driving. From what I have read, it is the turbocharger. Is this noise normal or could it be an indication of trouble to come. It's not that loud but very annoying. We still have time to get out of this purchase, but we really like the car otherwise. My ears are starting to actually feel bad from the constant noise. Is there anything
we can do to correct this?
Thanks so much.
ML
I don't know if there is a problem because there was no CEL and I got 32 mpg going about 80 mph the whole way.
thanks!
Thanks again,
ML