Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Another possible reason for intermittent A/C malfunction is contamination of the A/C compressor clutch harness connector. this connector is located directly below the coolant overflow bottle. I had this problem with my 99 626 V6. The collant bottle had a slow leak along the bottom seam. How coolant got into A/C compressor clutch harness connector and contaminated ti. My A/C would work intermittently until it finally quit. Replacing the bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem for good. I also had an A/C relay fail once. the cost of the relay is about $ 26.
Another possiblity is that your throttle position sensor (TPS) is going bad somewhere in its travel.
Recently the check engine light would flicker on and off depending if i turned a corner hard or hit a bump.
Now i took the car on the xpress way and now it wont go off. Anyone ever have this problem? Suggestions?
I just had the car inpected and oil changed with no problems
I don't know if it's related, but occasionally I've noticed the tach dropping to 0 for a second then back up again while driving on the highway.
Tonight i've been in a dark place an effectively ther's some light on the ignition wires.
I think i will command them tomorow.
Today i've change the coil and it's not good. In France it's cost 75€ (almost 80 us$).
I've found this very expensive.
sincere appreciation!
chad
TIA PGP
i'm now trying to remove the old brake disc to replace it. it has 4 bolts holding it to the spindle/hub from the back side. there is an opening on the back large enough to get an open ended wrench in, but these bolts are on GOOD, and i fear that i'm going to strip them before they come loose. i've used some P.O. and tried a deep angle box end wrench, but can't get it around the head of the bolt with so little room.
i have a manual for MY car, but this is my roommates, and i'm just trying to help him out. any (more) advice will again be sincerely appreciated!
chad
TIA
PGP
It seems that the seal can only be purchased with a new injector ($350 OEM and $100 after-market). Look at this picture for clarity. By the way, the injector functions just fine.
I can buy a used injector for about $25 just to get to the seal, but that’s a used one. Any advice on where to get this? Tried all the major parts shops and also some importers to no avail.
Let me also explain two other resolved issues I’ve just had for the benefit of others. The engine light came on a few weeks ago and the car started having idling problems. The engine would run fine otherwise, but idling got progressively worse over weeks. Replaced the spark plugs and the leads. The code read too lean on cylinder one. Finally I took it to the dealer who found the intake manifold gasket leaking. That was replaced and problem fixed for $355.
Also had a leak on the metal oil pipe running from the gearbox to the radiator. Luckily, it spilled the transmission fluid on the exhaust pipe and caused a lot of smoke, so I could catch it before too much oil was spilled. After replacing the pipe for $40 (actually two pipes attached to each other), I found that the leak was caused by excessive corrosion. So, check those metal pipes before loosing a gearbox to it.
Otherwise, I had very little trouble with this car and hope to be driving it for another few years. Current mileage is 85K.
Drive safe.
Christian.
Also talk to another dealer. I've always been able to order injector seals.
thanks again for your help! after thinking about it a little, i realized that even if i COULD break those bolts loose, they would hit the knuckle before they could come out anyway... so basically, like you said, they need to be pressed apart/ back together. i was hoping to get away without doing an alignment, and new wheel bearings - but seems inevitable at this point. my acura is the same - press in/press out. if he hadn't waited so long to do his brakes, then his discs would still be good, but the pad backing has worn them down to almost nothing!
again, sincere thanks. (from my roommate too.)
chad
(ps, i'll be tackling the rear drums next. should be easy from what i've heard, but i've just never done drum brakes before - so i may be back! fortunately i've already been able to remove the drums, which i hear can be real tough sometimes.)
Second, did the check engine light come on? If so, take it to AutoZone, have them retrieve the trouble codes (no charge), and post the code #'s. We can go from there.
TIA
PGP
i forgot to ask; when i pulled the axle out, there was a significant amount of gear oil that came out. on my acura, because the motor is longitudinal, i have a differential that takes 80/90 gear oil. this mazda i'm working on is horizontally mounted, so the axle goes straight into the tranny? (let me know if i'm wrong!) my acura takes 10/30 in it's 5spd trans, but what came out of the mazda definitely smelled like gear oil. what's recommended for the 5spd trans in this car? i'm guessing i get to pump it up into a fill bolt somewhere...
thanks, thanks, thanks... not sure how many more times i can say it.
chad
To check/add lube, remove the speedo gear and housing from the top of the transaxle. The fluid level should be at the upper shoulder of the gear.
PGP
I have a 96 626, the starter just crapped on me, the parts place need to know which month the car was produced as there was a change in mid year. How do I decode the VIN to tell me which month this car wasw produced.
Thanks in advance for the help
THX PGP
Thx PGP
Also I was wondering what sensor would become more sensitive by adding external tranny cooler as I mentioned in post #1642. ( The whole scoop on the car is in this post ) Its sorta tough cause I dont have a parts store there , so I have to sort of guess what I will buy here and take with me.
Thx again PGP
Technical Questions
thanks
Shifty the Host
There might be a few causes: I drove a couple of miles (about 20) with gas light on (according to the spec) and I changed air filter at the same day.
Please, help:)
Thank you in advance!
P.S.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description
Trouble Code: P0113
Vehicle Qualification: Mazda 626
Description: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
Also try cleaning the MAF sensor. Mike