Mazda 626 Troubles

lgraham1979 · March 2005

any help on 1991 mazda 626, screeching noise while acclerating?

irishalchemist · March 2005

Belts maybe? What engine and transmission?

626town · March 2005

well my mass air flow went bad on my 94 626 and my coil (about $55.00 )at the same time. A mazda dealer fixed that problem for me. After other mechanics couldn`t`t. look at your engine while it`s running,in a dark garage.If you see a blue fog like light around your coil and ignition wires , well thats your problem.

rangerlg · March 2005

Sometimes when I am driving my 2000 626, the air conditioner will stop blowing cold. Wheni t does this, my idle will be real high (above 2000 RPM). I can actually begin to go in 1st gear without putting my foot on the gas (I ha a manual). I have 99,000 miles on this car. Is this my compressor going out or maybe something simple. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

alcan · March 2005

A vacuum leak could cause those symptoms. Check for any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines.

p100 · March 2005

A malfunctioning A/C relay could cause these problems. Looks like your A/C compressor clutch does not get current all the time (this is why A/c blows hot occasionally.

Another possible reason for intermittent A/C malfunction is contamination of the A/C compressor clutch harness connector. this connector is located directly below the coolant overflow bottle. I had this problem with my 99 626 V6. The collant bottle had a slow leak along the bottom seam. How coolant got into A/C compressor clutch harness connector and contaminated ti. My A/C would work intermittently until it finally quit. Replacing the bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem for good. I also had an A/C relay fail once. the cost of the relay is about $ 26.

steamer1 · March 2005

!st how to instal a water pump belt on a mazda 626. 2nd why I have had problems with the length of time the water pump belt lasts only 2 months the last one

sd01 · March 2005

Clean or replace the idle air control (IAC) motor/valve. It's a stepping motor that manages idle and benefits driveability. When inspecting this part, be sure not to lose any gasket/o-ring used for installation.

Another possiblity is that your throttle position sensor (TPS) is going bad somewhere in its travel.

jwalker500 · March 2005

Howdy... For the second time in about 2 months, my 2001 Mazda 626 ES V6 has had difficulty starting. Once it was a cold start, the second time was warm, but the symptom was the same. On the first attempt, the car starts, but then the engine abruptly stops after a few seconds. With numerous attempts, the engine turns over but doesn't catch. Then, after 20-30 minutes it starts up fine and is able to start ok numerous times subsequently. Any ideas on the problem/solution? Fuel injection?

hahnsolo · March 2005

I just bought a used mazda 626 at 61k miles.
Recently the check engine light would flicker on and off depending if i turned a corner hard or hit a bump.

Now i took the car on the xpress way and now it wont go off. Anyone ever have this problem? Suggestions?

I just had the car inpected and oil changed with no problems

crsmith · March 2005

My 97 626 4 cyl 5 spd will sometimes not start in the morning. It cranks at a normal rate but will not start. When it first happened and was towed into the shop, they replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil and spark plugs. When it happened again, a week later, we had the battery replaced since it was due. It wouldn't start last Sunday morning at first, but we were able to get it started a couple of hours later. Once it starts for the day, it's fine. When it starts, it runs great. Any ideas?

I don't know if it's related, but occasionally I've noticed the tach dropping to 0 for a second then back up again while driving on the highway.

man_hu · April 2005

I've got the same problem on 94 626 GLXI (french appelation i presume. Yes i'm french in france)
Tonight i've been in a dark place an effectively ther's some light on the ignition wires.
I think i will command them tomorow.
Today i've change the coil and it's not good. In France it's cost 75 (almost 80 us$).
I've found this very expensive.

pteezy · April 2005

Well.. i bought this car.. and its nice but its got a bad tranny.. errors in 2nd and 4th gear and an overheating issue ( had the computer scanned) and it idles really high when cold and really low after.. vibrates alot and when u roll down the window or somethin it gets worse... any suggestions.. new tranny or rebuild?

rangerlg · April 2005

I am looking at changing the AC clutch on my 626. I am scanning the parts sites and it has listing for three different bearings. Do I need all these bearing for my clutch? I can't seem to find an already assembled clutch to just replace. Also, is this a real tough job? I assume I will have to pull the belts to access the clutch. I was going to change then out anyway. Thanks for the help.

bshabazz · April 2005

I just bought a 1995 Mazda 626 4 cyl, about 3 months ago. About a month after I had it, the water pump started leaking anti-freeze. Found out the water pump was the oldest thing on the car (last owner kept all records of maintenance). My Dad recently replaced my leaking water pump with a brand new pump, and brand new thermostat. When I bought the car, the timing belt was just replaced so my Dad did not replace that. After about a week, my water pump leaks again from the same area. I'm not sure if it is the water pump itself or if it is a hose that anti-freeze is leaking from, but one thing is for definite is that it leaks, once again! Do you know what he might have done wrong for a brand new pump to leak so fast again? He put sealant around the pump and everything and it's still leaking. Do you think it may be a hose or something? Thanks for the help.

dieselrulz · April 2005

i'm trying to replace the drive axles on an '87 626 for my roommate. i've done this on my hondas... to do this, i've popped the tie rod joint, and removed the bolt snugging the ball joint to the hub, but can't seem to get the ball joint to separate fully from the hub. is there something i'm missing? i've used a LOT of leverage, applying downward pressure on the control arm while hitting it with a hammer to try to pop it... it slid about halfway out, slowly, with a LOT of hammering, but now doesn't move. my honda ball joint popped easily - almost exactly like the tie rod joint. any help??

sincere appreciation!
chad

alcan · April 2005

It probably has some rust buildup on the stud of the ball joint. First, give it a good dose of PB Blaster penetrating oil. Then to get extra leverage, bolt a chain around the outer end of the control arm forming a loose loop. Slide the bar through the chain until the inner end of the bar is at the control arm pivot. Should give enough leverage to pop the ball joint loose. Also, make sure the outer edge of the control arm isn't catching on the brake rotor splash shield when you pry it down.

mazda626atx · April 2005

I have an american version 94 ATX here in Greece and the CEL comes on. It used to come on only under load (uphill accelerating etc)I have installed xternal trans cooler and now it comes on at lower speeds and occasionally stays on till I come to a stop. It has ford EEC IV and I drew codes using jumper from sti and sto and retrieved 159 118 119 possibly 181. I cleared the codes and am back in USA now.It is difficult to read the codes and I am not certain about a few of them but almost positive that the 159 is accurate. Also when running car (parked) to warm it up pre testing, it is almost impossible to maintain 2000 rpm . Get near 2000 then surges to 2500 and then when I try to back off it drops back to 1500. Maybe that will mean something to you guys? I think it is prolly MAF or O2 sensor but would like to find a inexpensive tool to read the codes accurately. I do not want to change parts randomly. Car has 55k on it and went thru CEL light to Hold light progression 3 years ago and had tranny rebuilt prolly unnecessarily. After rebuild mechanic ordered a sensor and all was fine for 20 months or so. He does not remember what part he changed and Mazda does not keep records back to 2001 I thought it was MAF but Mazda said they never sold that sensor without entire housing It cost $59.45 from Mazda Feb 15th 2001 Aside from light car drives fine.I am concerned what will happen when it gets warm in Greece. Maybe nothing
TIA PGP

dieselrulz · April 2005

Thanks! using your advice, i successfully separated the ball joint.

i'm now trying to remove the old brake disc to replace it. it has 4 bolts holding it to the spindle/hub from the back side. there is an opening on the back large enough to get an open ended wrench in, but these bolts are on GOOD, and i fear that i'm going to strip them before they come loose. i've used some P.O. and tried a deep angle box end wrench, but can't get it around the head of the bolt with so little room.

i have a manual for MY car, but this is my roommates, and i'm just trying to help him out. any (more) advice will again be sincerely appreciated!

chad

alcan · April 2005

My info shows it's a captive rotor. You'll have to remove the steering knuckle/hub/rotor assembly and take it to a machine shop with a press to disassemble it. Might also require a new wheel bearing as they tend to separate when pressing the hub out.

mazda626atx · April 2005

Hi Guys I have been reading posts in here for weeks and finally posted #1642. a few days ago.Please look at it when you get a chance. IRISH you posted something #1114 about MALF codes and that site (goldennet ) no longer exists. Could you repost the info or know where I could get it now? Also ALCAN seems to have some info on these cars that may be helpful I have the HAYNES mazda 626 ford probe manual 1993-2001 but it does not go into reading 3 digit codes on OBD I cars in any depth.
TIA
PGP

chrb · April 2005

Can anyone help me find a fuel injector seal for my Mazda 626 LX (2.0 4-cyl). I think its also called a hat. According to the dealer they found the seal broken while fixing another problem (see below). Now I have fuel all over the engine and can see it spraying out around the injector sides while the car is running. Needless to say, the fire extinguisher was moved to the car and the keys put far away.

It seems that the seal can only be purchased with a new injector ($350 OEM and $100 after-market). Look at this picture for clarity. By the way, the injector functions just fine.

I can buy a used injector for about $25 just to get to the seal, but thats a used one. Any advice on where to get this? Tried all the major parts shops and also some importers to no avail.

Let me also explain two other resolved issues Ive just had for the benefit of others. The engine light came on a few weeks ago and the car started having idling problems. The engine would run fine otherwise, but idling got progressively worse over weeks. Replaced the spark plugs and the leads. The code read too lean on cylinder one. Finally I took it to the dealer who found the intake manifold gasket leaking. That was replaced and problem fixed for $355.

Also had a leak on the metal oil pipe running from the gearbox to the radiator. Luckily, it spilled the transmission fluid on the exhaust pipe and caused a lot of smoke, so I could catch it before too much oil was spilled. After replacing the pipe for $40 (actually two pipes attached to each other), I found that the leak was caused by excessive corrosion. So, check those metal pipes before loosing a gearbox to it.

Otherwise, I had very little trouble with this car and hope to be driving it for another few years. Current mileage is 85K.

Drive safe.
Christian.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

I think these seals are rather standard sizes. You might find out who makes the injectors and talk to them.

Also talk to another dealer. I've always been able to order injector seals.

kiesha248 · April 2005

I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1994 MAZDA 626 WITH 155,000 MILES ON IT. OKAY, I REALLY LIKED THE LOOK OF THE CAR, SO I DRIVE IT FOR A ABOUT A DAY AND WHAT DO U KNOW, THE HEADLIGHTS WOULDN'T COME ON! THEN TO MY HORROR I EXPERIENCED A WILD JERKING MOTION WHEN I ACCELERATED!!! THIS SCARED ME OUT OF MY WITS!!! AS IF THINGS COULDNT GET ANY WORSE WHILE DRIVING, THE STEERING WHEEL SHAKES HORRIBLY. IM AT A LOST FOR WORDS. THE OTHER NIGHT I ACTUALLY FELT LIKE CRYING. PLEASE, IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS ON WHAT I SHOULD DO (OTHER THAN TRASH THE CAR) PLEASE LET ME KNOW.

dieselrulz · April 2005

alcan,
thanks again for your help! after thinking about it a little, i realized that even if i COULD break those bolts loose, they would hit the knuckle before they could come out anyway... so basically, like you said, they need to be pressed apart/ back together. i was hoping to get away without doing an alignment, and new wheel bearings - but seems inevitable at this point. my acura is the same - press in/press out. if he hadn't waited so long to do his brakes, then his discs would still be good, but the pad backing has worn them down to almost nothing!

again, sincere thanks. (from my roommate too.)

chad

(ps, i'll be tackling the rear drums next. should be easy from what i've heard, but i've just never done drum brakes before - so i may be back! fortunately i've already been able to remove the drums, which i hear can be real tough sometimes.)

alcan · April 2005

First, TURN OFF THE CAPS LOCK KEY. You don't need to shout.

Second, did the check engine light come on? If so, take it to AutoZone, have them retrieve the trouble codes (no charge), and post the code #'s. We can go from there.

alcan · April 2005

Chad, when you do the rears, do one side at a time and use the other side for reference. If not, you'll get amnesia 1 second after removing the last spring from the second side LOL.

mazda626atx · April 2005

Hi ALCAN. I posted #1645 and #1642 When you have time could you give me the benefit of your experience please.
TIA
PGP

dieselrulz · April 2005

LOL - definitely good advice! i get that type of amnesia a lot i think... the just-after-it's-completely-disassembled amnesia. =D

i forgot to ask; when i pulled the axle out, there was a significant amount of gear oil that came out. on my acura, because the motor is longitudinal, i have a differential that takes 80/90 gear oil. this mazda i'm working on is horizontally mounted, so the axle goes straight into the tranny? (let me know if i'm wrong!) my acura takes 10/30 in it's 5spd trans, but what came out of the mazda definitely smelled like gear oil. what's recommended for the 5spd trans in this car? i'm guessing i get to pump it up into a fill bolt somewhere...

thanks, thanks, thanks... not sure how many more times i can say it.

chad

alcan · April 2005

You have a good nose. The manual transaxle fluid spec is SAE 90 EP gear oil if the temperature is above 0°F (-18°C), or SAE 80 EP gear oil or Dexron III ATF if the temperature is below 0°F (-18°C).:

To check/add lube, remove the speedo gear and housing from the top of the transaxle. The fluid level should be at the upper shoulder of the gear.

alcan · April 2005

Hang in there, I'm on it. Trying to locate the least expensive reader that will do the job.

mazda626atx · April 2005

THx Alcan. Also when running car (parked) to warm it up pre testing, it is almost impossible to maintain 2000 rpm . Get near 2000 then surges to 2500 and then when I try to back off it drops back to 1500. I know people have mentioned surging here but only happens when not under load THX GOD Also CEL used to come on only under load (uphill accelerating etc)I have installed xternal trans cooler and now it comes on at lower speeds and occasionally stays on till I come to a stop.Do either of these things indicate anything to you my GURU

PGP

j626 · April 2005

I have a 94 mazda 626 and recently replaced the ball joints without having to replace the lower control arm. All you need to do is rent the press (ball joint removal kit) at any autozone, murrays, or auto parts store. They won't even charge for the rental, just the deposit you leave till you return it. Just take off the tire, disconnect the hub (ie. spindle, wheel hub, etc.), once the ball joint is exposed use the press to take the ball joint out, reverse the press and use it to put the new ball jooint in. It's really simple to do, and anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this. Just never use a torch to take the ball joints off a vehicle because this will just expand the collar and when you go to put your new ones on they will eventually begin to slip.

james_andrea · April 2005

I just baught a 96 mazda 626 4cyl. great cond. 100k miles 3 months ago and it started to idle funny and my check engine light came on. so we took the car back to the dealer and they called mazda and they said it was the idle air control valve and to clean it out realy good and that should work. they did that and everything was fine and the check engine light went out. a couple days later the check engine light came back on and it started to idle funny agian. know the car wont drive over 1200 RPMs and it will try to cut out on me but once you force it over 2000 RPMs it drives perfect. and some times it wont start up on a incline or hill. I was wondering what really could be wrong and should I pay 400-600.00 for the Idle control valve? thanx james_andrea :sick:

alan1999 · April 2005

Not sure about the headlights but the jerking is a fairly common problem due to a cracked intake hose (big, black accordian type hose from the air filter box to the intake manifold). The symtoms are that the car will not jerk in reverse or if you start of verrry slowly. What is happening is that the torque of the engine is pulling apart a crack in the hose and allowing too much air into the manifold. The part is about 60 bucks and it will take you about 45 minutes to change it. You have to save a couple of parts from the old hose so don't throw it away until you have installed the new one. As for the headlights, check the fuse first, then I would probably inspect the switch after that. Good luck.

drboeing · April 2005

Hi all,
I have a 96 626, the starter just crapped on me, the parts place need to know which month the car was produced as there was a change in mid year. How do I decode the VIN to tell me which month this car wasw produced.
Thanks in advance for the help

alcan · April 2005

Look on the sticker on the driver's door.

mazda626atx · April 2005

When running car (parked) to warm it up pre testing, it is almost impossible to maintain 2000 rpm . Get near 2000 then surges to 2500 and then when I try to back off it drops back to 1500. I know people have mentioned surging here but only happens when not under load. Also CEL used to come on only under load (uphill accelerating etc) but since I have installed xternal trans cooler, now it comes on at lower speeds, stays on longer and occasionally stays on till I come to a full stop at a light. Any ideas ?
THX PGP

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Some kind of fuel delivery issue...sounds like its running rich. Do you have somewhat disappointing fuel mileage on this car?

mazda626atx · April 2005

Thx Mr Shiftright. I am in NYC at the moment . I am going to have wife do a mileage check before I get back . This way if I need parts I will bring them with me when I go. I sense the mileage was dissapointing but I thought that was more due to my aggressive driving style. Plus I never really checked because gas is sold in liters there so I will have to pay attention and convert to gallons.What type of highway mileage should I expect . Also mixed city freeway driving. :lemon: If its running rich what might it be ?
Thx

PGP

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

well it'll have to be diagnosed more carefully. There are no error codes from a Check Engine Light? Usually some sensor or valve gone awry and messing up the fuel mixture.

626town · April 2005

i also had the same problem but it only cost me $55.00 AT A MAZDA DEALER IN CHICAGO WILLIAMS ON THE SOUTH SIDE

626town · April 2005

THANKS BUT I CHANGED BOTH CONTROL ARMS , BUSHINGS WERE BAD BUT THANKS FOR THE INFO. I`LL GIVE MY MURRAY GUYS SOME SH-T

mazda626atx · April 2005

I get a 159 MAF and a 181 (lean condition) or 118 (ECT). I was rushed when I got these codes and it was my first time. I will have to read them again when I get back to Greece and I hope to get better at recognizing them. I was curious if the surging to 2500 then dropping to 1500 might confirm something, because I am considering buying parts here before I go back and have an opportunity to retest. I cleaned the MAf and checked all the wiring and will either buy a new one or wait till I get there and have a shop check it out with the info I now have.
Also I was wondering what sensor would become more sensitive by adding external tranny cooler as I mentioned in post #1642. ( The whole scoop on the car is in this post ) Its sorta tough cause I dont have a parts store there , so I have to sort of guess what I will buy here and take with me.
Thx again PGP

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

If we're going to get into codes, you should prepare your question exactly and then post it here,where it is more likely one of our visiting techs would see it.:

Technical Questions

thanks

Shifty the Host

temnik · April 2005

Hi there, do you have solution for code # 113 ?
There might be a few causes: I drove a couple of miles (about 20) with gas light on (according to the spec) and I changed air filter at the same day.
Please, help:)
Thank you in advance!

P.S.
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description
Trouble Code: P0113
Vehicle Qualification: Mazda 626
Description: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

mhanner · April 2005

What was the check engine code? It could be a sensor in the transmission- 626s are notorious for tranny problems if it's an automatic. Did you check the fuel filter?
Also try cleaning the MAF sensor. Mike

mazda626atx · April 2005

A 113 code is IAT like you said. Check that sensor , circuit all wires , fuses etc. There is a way of cking it using an ohmeter and a hair blowing gun , but unless you know what you are doing bring it to qualified tech. Also make sure air filter is seated properly cause the MAF is closely connected in Mazdas and in some models 93-97 V6 the IAT is part of the MAF. Also which engine 4 or V 6

stuckwith626 · April 2005

does anyone know what might be wrong with my 95 mazda 626, i just had the cylinder head reconditioned and when im stopped at a light the car revs up by itself and i now have an oil leak that i didnt have at first. please help this is is breaking my pockets and the check engine light blinks off and on as well as the o/d light

pteezy · April 2005

SO here's my dilemma.. i have a 94 mazda 626 4cyl 2.0 automatic.. tranny needs rebuilding.. has errors in 2nd and 4th gear... so those 2 gears slip.. ALOT!! and it has an overheating problem.. also just recently, after i drive maybe bout 15-20 miles, black smoke starts to come out from underneith the car.. , but its not overheating... i found tranny fluid on the ground so could it be leaking onto the manifold? also has an idling issue..NOW! I was made an offer to buy an RX-7 engine.. have it put in with tranny and all for $1000... AND i was made an offer on a 96 vtec civic for $2000... which should i go with?

Mazda 626 Troubles

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