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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • 626town626town Member Posts: 7
    I have a 94 626 with a 4 cyl. and 125,000 on it. Recently I`m having trouble with 1 st gear. It`s almost like if the car is in neutral when I accelerate then the gear engages with a heavy jerk. After that, the rest of the gears seem to shift correctly.The 1 st gear will only engage at a higher rpm`s. What could be causing this . Need Help .
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    In regards to the tranny how many miles on it. I had a 94 rebuilt with 45k on it and mechanic was honest enough to tell me nothing was really worn. As to tranny leak I just blew out the 2 transaxle seals at 53K ( after a downshift on mountainous road after 2 hours high speed driving 70-80-mph) and tranny fluid leaked onto exhaust pipe and smoked like crazy. How much fluid did you lose. Mazda trannys (CDE really Ford )are notorious for giving false disaster symptoms related to other sensors. After rebuild the tranny acted the same then mechanic told me to change $50 sensor and now its fine for last 4 years aside from seals going .
    Dont act too fast IMHO
    PGP
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Well Mr Shiftright . My Wife just drove the car 145 miles and used 4.96 gallons (18.80 liters )so mileage was 29.32 on the hwy . She told me car seemed weak on the long uphill climbs. Its pretty high there in mountains of Greece and thin air might contribute or maybe she shoulda put in in 2nd because tranny is, and she is also, reluctant to downshift.
    Any thoughts on power loss? MAF or O2 ? Aside from CEL off and on, and weakness, all else was fine
    Thx PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Without codes it's like working in the dark.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Mr Shiftright . I got a 159 (MAF) and a 181 (heated O2 sensor) as I mentioned in POST # 1668 before I left Greece. I was not sure I did it right but I have found out from other sites that in fact I did. If its a O2 sensor Mazda says they have 3 of them . I have heard they have one ? If there are 3 how do I figure out which one is bad.
    Can a bad MAF also create a bad OS reading. What if I do nothing? Car drives fine aside from long uphill climbs and Mileage was normal. Aside from CEL I wouldnt know anything was wrong
    Thx PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the problem is that the code doesn't mean these items are bad, it only means that these items are unhappy for some reason, which could be caused by something else (nice, huh?) . Maybe will jump in to help you here, he's a working tech, I'm not.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Who will jump in to help me ?? Well whomever he is I would love his help, before I go out spending a lot of money on guesswork . I have cleaned tha MAF with a computer sray can and looked at most of the wires. I am mechanical, but by no means a mechanic! Help :)
    PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    e-mail me and I'll send you his e-mail. I can't post it here because he'll get spam. Or, go to the Technical Questions Forum and look for his posts and click on his name and you'll get his e-mail. Maybe he can help you, I don't know.

    good luck with it,

    Shifty the Host
  • austin626austin626 Member Posts: 2
    Hello Mr. Shiftright, I have a delima with my 2000 626 4 cylinder standard 5-speed. It started to idle badly, and at acceleration especially in gears1&2 it misses bad and doesn't want to go if you give it gas, you have to let off a bit and ease back into it. the code was a #1 cylinder misfire. I changed the spark plugs, wires, coil pack, and used some feul injector cleaner and that fixed it for 2 weeks. Now it's back at it only worse. The check engine light came on again, but it only showed the same code again. Now even at highway speeds it misses and lopes. PLEASE HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I think you'll have to check to see if the injectors are getting pulses (noid light) and then swap out the fuel filters if the injectors seem okay. Might help. A cylinder can misfire for a lot of reasons.
  • austin626austin626 Member Posts: 2
    So you think that the problem may be more fuel injector related? Also I have replaced 1 fuel filter, is there more than one on this car? Also sorry if this is a dumb question , but what is a noid light? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's a device you plug into the injector's electrical connector to see if your fuel injectors are getting a pulse from the computer. No pulse, no squirt, no boom-boom.

    Most local auto parts stores sell noid lights.

    If you are getting a pulse to that cylinder, you might have to check your fuel rail fuel pressure and see if that's proper. If that's proper, then I guess I'd pull the injector and replace it for that cylinder.

    This ALL presumes that you are, in fact, getting a proper and consistent spark to that cylinder that isn't firing.

    I dunno, without being there I don't want to tell you to go out and spend money. Just throwing out ideas for you based on what you are telling me.
  • mdmazdaownermdmazdaowner Member Posts: 1
    I took my car in to see why the engine light was constantly going off/on...So I received an estimate that included a Fuel & Emission problem, and a few other things that I already knew I needed (new tires/alignment).

    He gave me prices for the catalyst converter which was $672 the o2 sensors (2) were $416.00. Are these prices this high b/c its a Mazda, b/c when I went to a couple of sites this morning, they advertised Mazda Converters for $149 and o2 sensors starting at $19.00. The mechanic told me that Mazda manufacturers their own products and if any others would be used, it would cause other problems. Is this true? Will someone give me some insight, please?

    And not to mention...for the Tune-up... The wires were quote at $83 and the plugs were $32. and not to mention almost $90 :confuse: for labor alone!!!
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    First of all do a Google for OEM mazda parts . If you are going to pay 83 you should at least get NGK wires that are excellent quality .O2 sensors can be found at site also There is one that is named something like that. I have checked sensiors and can see them a lot cheaper than that .
    In closing I had to change the evaporator on my Mercedes in NYC and Benz wanted $980 plus tax for the parts with an alleged 20% discount that I got because my friend owns a body shop .List price was $1200. I bought the same parts Bosch all around online for $600. Bosch plugs cost 2+ unless they are the platinum
    Also you can call some of these online sites if you are buying a lot of stuff and get a better than advertised price . Sales people on the phone work on commision and can shop suppliers while you wait.Os sensors at $19 I would avoid $50 and up I do not know what model etc .
    Do your due diligence online
    PGP
  • velcrovelcro Member Posts: 1
    I noticed your message about starting problems with your 626. I have a 1991 and trying to solve the same problem. I purchased the car with the problem, as the previous owner could not solve it. Cold starts were uncertain; warm was always fine. I recently notice a leaking fuel injector.? Fuel injectors? Any info you might provide would be appreciated. Thanks so much, Nick
  • pteezypteezy Member Posts: 3
    I'm not sure how much fluid i lost, but it only leaks when it gets hot.. maybe after a good 30 miles.... and you think a $50 sensor would cause it to slip in 2nd and 4th gear?
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Mine used to slip in 2nd, 4th , change into 2nd gear from a standing start, search and change gears while I waited stopped at a light. The tranny gets signals from sensors that make it crazy thats all I am saying. I think more Mazda trannys are rebuilt than is necessary and my mechanic in Greece says the same tranny in the Mondeo has no preoblems This tranny was used in different cars with different results You have the CD4E right.
    Where did you lose the oil from If you lost it from the selas they aree $30 job plus parts Cost me $30 for OEM transaxle seals and $71 Eoros to have them and reman axles put in so check it out before you decide is all I am saying
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Also when I lost the fluid from the seals it fell on exhaust pipes and smoked like crazy . Check one thing out at a time In my humble opinion
  • lindros810lindros810 Member Posts: 1
    '97 626 4 cylinder with 104,000 miles. Last couple of months been white smoke coming from exhaust on start up after sitting over night or after being at work all day. Been eating oil like crazy. Went to get it checked and compression problem was found in 4th cylinder(basically blown). PSI's were 210,205,210,135. I was told that with the milage it wasnt worth trying to fix the cylinder itself cause your at risk of blowing the other ones. Better off droping a new engine in it or buying another car. Anybody have any suggestions or have had this same problem?? Need Help! Thanks. :sick:
  • caulfieldcaulfield Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 626 and the AT needed a front seal replaced. After spending $500 getting it replaced, the transmission burnt up after 180 miles on the interstate, costing another $2500. Evidently, this is a common problem among many 626s about the trannies burning up after having seals replaced. Is there any way, or has there been, a collective effort at pressuring Mazda to fix these obvious flaws with the transimssion design, and refund those that have wasted money?
  • epwepw Member Posts: 1
    Wondering if anyone has any ideas that may help .. i have a '97 626 with 254,000 mi ... it seems to be running very lean to the point the plugs get white and start misfiring after about 2000 miles .. also has fast idle at times .. as well as fluctuates between fast/slow repeatedly ... thanks in advance for your help
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Do a Google for a class action suit or Recall There was a class action suit for the 94 that had an attorney in Alabama handling it . I had the number but threw it away as my car is in Greece.
    Good Luck Peter :)
  • mtnmedicmtnmedic Member Posts: 1
    Is there any way to reset the anti-theft radio in my mazda 626? The LCD went out a while back. The battery went dead the other day, and evidently I put the code in wrong since I couldn't see it. I can't get it to work. Any advice? Does anyone out there have a used am/fm/cassette/cd for a '93 626 that has a valid code?

    Thanks
    Shane
  • terravecchioterravecchio Member Posts: 1
    Looking for a diagram and any help with my car. Its old and I don't want to invest alot of money in it but I need a exhust from the cat back. I need to know pipe size and if i can fit parts in. auto shops want between 250 and 400 for replacement of parts car worth about 300 Help please
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    the radio can be reset using factory master code. Dealer will charge at least 1/2 hour labor to perform repair.
  • drewlzdrewlz Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am curious if anyone has any ideas on what might be wrong with my 1991 Mazda 626 LX (2.2L non turbo) - it has 210,000 KM on it so far.

    My car surges when idle, the RPM will bounce from 100 to 900. It may go through this cycle up to 10 times, then even out to 750RPM (where it should be).
    My 626 will also hesitate from a stop, or stall all together, though this seldom happens. When the car is in neutral it idles nice and smooth. Driving in any gear once past the initial acceleration attempt, the car runs great.

    There is no engine warning light or other obvious problems. There are no vacuum leaks (I had this checked already).

    The problem began to show itself about a month ago and is now constant. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs and the spark plug wires are new as well. Makes no difference. This problems happens once the car has warmed up to normal operating temperature. (10 minutes or less)

    For the problem to show itself the car must be in gear and the car must be stopped. It happens mainly when you come to a stop.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • sierra99sierra99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 626 starts great, idles great but as soon as i put in gear and try to accelerate it starts sputtering badly, I have to be very gentle on the accelator to gain speed. Even in N or P when I apply gas it sputters and coughs and I can only reach a maximum RPM of about 3500 - 4000 and is very slow in getting there. Any help would be great!
  • mikec11mikec11 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 1990 626 DX with an R-12 factory air system that has suddenly quit working, If I jump the A/C clutch directly to the battey it works fine and blows cold and it still has plenty of charge left in the system. Has anyone else had the same problem and what was the fix? The car has 130K trouble free miles on it and before I wade in to the electrics I wanted to see if it was a common problem.
  • brokenfleabrokenflea Member Posts: 1
    i have about 130,000 miles on a 1993 mazda 626. i get white smoke from the exhaust on pressing on gas. the car does great on power though.i was wondering what could be the exact reason why its blowing white smoke from the exhaust. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    TIA
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    pure white smoke like steam? That's a head gasket.
  • meatbeatjackmeatbeatjack Member Posts: 1
    I dont know what i'm doing wrong, but....

    i took the wheels off, removed the stupid little cover on the only caliper bolt that i could find (are there supposed to be 2 like normal calipers?) and tried to take it off, but it seems like just a tiny little bit of the bolt is left in, just enough to not let the caliper up and give me access to the pads. should i just whack it a couple of times with a screw driver and hammer or does anyone have any other suggestions?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Each brake caliper has two mount bolts. Yhey do not have any covers on them. The only bolt on the rear caliper that has a cover on it is the Allen head bolt, which you need to turn to retract the piston in before you can put new pads on. Unless you are talking about the caliper sliding pins that have a boot on them. You do not touch those unless you neede to lube them.
  • amzeusamzeus Member Posts: 8
    Hello All,

    I'm new to the site, found it searching for 626 problems... I currently have a 98 V6 626 5-speed with 335,000km (208,000 miles). Car still runs great exept for worn suspension and a troublesome gearbox - almost impossible to shift gears after driving on the highway or running the airconditioning. Regardelss, I found a 2002 ES 5-speed with 50,000miles on it and will most likely buy it. One trouble I did have on my 98 was a bad 3rd gear synchro (failed out of warranty - doh!), and I did notice on the 2002 that this same problem was starting to appear (which is still covered under warranty, so I'll get it replaced). Anyone else have bad synchro's in the 626? Is the stock tranny fluid not ideal?

    Anyways, I hope the new one lasts just as long as the first. I may keep the 98 for parts, unless there are people who want a car with 335,000km -anyone interested, whole car? parts?

    Mike
  • laura5laura5 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Mazda 626 was bought second hand in 2003. It was running pretty good then. After a while, when I do the regular checking, the mechanic told me to change from axles, which I did. Ever since then, the car is running not as smooth as before.

    I have a remote car key, but I like to lock my car door using the button on the window when I step out of the car, now the key is not working anymore.

    Starting from last month, the airbag signal starts to flash on and off. The transimission is running bad, humps with acceleartioin. Engine is loud and whenever I step on the gas, I feel like the car is suffering.

    Anyone any ideas what is going on?
    I read so many bad reviews about this car, not I wonder whether I should just drop it and get another car...
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    The first step is to get the OBD ll codes from your car. I have heard many parts stores will retrieve them for you . The air bag is controlled by the SRS system and you have to be carefull not to activate it Thats square one IMHO.
    Then come back and tell us what they are .
    Good Luck
    PGP
  • tiementiemen Member Posts: 1
    Mine did this once at 65K miles, the mechanic said the plug have moved somehow and used some type of compound or grease to prevent a repeat. So far so good.
    (dear lord, you have a quater of a million miles on that car?? :surprise: how many transmissions did it take to get you there?)
  • mazda_manmazda_man Member Posts: 3
    i have a 626 DX 4cylinder,my car started sputtering a week ago,i have to easily press the pedal for it to go,if i press it just a little hard it starts to sputter,i thought i was my spark plugs so i replaced them,NOT IT,so i replaced the spark plug wires,NOT IT,i thought maybe it was my rotor button,i replaced it,NOT IT,thought it was the fuel filter,replaced it,NOT IT,thought it was my cadilac converter,i just got it today,i'm putting it on tonight,if that isn't it then i'm getting a diagnastic test done on it and it will tell me exact what the problem is,someone told me it might be my fuel injectors,i hope not because they are really alot of money,if anyone has the same problem and knows exactly what it is please let me know i would really appericaite it,thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check the air intake ducting between the airflow sensor and the throttle body for any cracks or other damage that would let unmetered air into the engine. You'll have to remove the ducting and take a hard look at it.Why are you replacing the catalytic converter? Have you done an exhaust restriction test to verify that the converter is plugged? Throwing parts at a problem can get expensive in a hurry.
  • carhelp101carhelp101 Member Posts: 5
    i was wondering if your latest fix has worked...i also have a mazda 626, 1999 lx 4 cylinder....i started having problems late last year, very similar to yours.....when i'm sitting at a light, the pressure drops hard and fast..when i give it gas, it sputters and doesn't want to go, which is even more noticeable when the air/heat/fan is on, i actually have to turn it off in order to go!! in december, i took it in for a diagnostic, but nothing really came up as i'd just replaced my battery weeks before, except one bad spark plug and the wire..my mechanic suggested i use a higher end wire, but i chose another as they were around $30 cheaper....the car was back to normal after that until about two weeks ago, when the check engine light started coming on again when i give it gas and it's shuttering again, so back to everything that happened last year.....everyone i've spoken to thinks it is the oxygen censors, though one person thinks it could be the fuel injectors.....the O2 censors are around $170 just for the parts, so i don't want to waste the money if this isn't it......sooo, just wondering if your latest worked as we seem to be in the same boat........if not, possibly the O2 censors or fuel injectors, from what has been suggested to me............btw, i've even taken my car in to auto zone type places when the check engine light is blinking and nothing shows up, to which i'm told that the computer isn't holding any info.......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm going to buy stock in companies that make 02 sensors.

    No one is properly diagnosing this car. No codes, REALLY? That's very strang. Oh well, -- Why don't you dose it with a VERY strong injector cleaner, like from Swepco or BGK44, and then after running that for a while have someone read your air/fuel mixture---would be great if you could get on a dyno but I know that's expensive.

    Being an intermittent problem, it could be injectors. I don't understand why we have no codes. Remember, a code-reading machine is only as good as the operator using it.
  • carhelp101carhelp101 Member Posts: 5
    yep, no codes!! of course, this was done at an auto zone..i've made an appointment for saturday to get a diagnostic done on it, hopefully something will show up since i have not changed the battery this time! my neighbor suggested an injector cleaner, which i did when the problem first started, as well as when this originally began back in december, and no luck....it is getting worse each day..the check engine light came on twice coming to work this morning....if i slow down or stop completely, it has trouble getting gas when i start to go again.....and again, it is worse when the air is on, and i'm in georgia, hard to go without air this time of year!!! i'm hoping that nothing shows at auto zone because their machines are basic, but my gut tells me i may end up with a new car soon! thanks for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well sometimes something has to fail to pin it down.
  • blowmeuptomblowmeuptom Member Posts: 3
    My girlfriend bought a 2002 626 in 2003, it's got an automatic transmission, lately (as in the starting of summer) when the A\C is on, primarily anytime the car is stopped, i.e. stop light, stop sign etc. it almost feels like the car is killing out, but in very, very, small bursts! I turn the A\C off and it stops instantly, and when I start to accelerate, the instant I engage the gas pedal, there's almost the same sputtering feeling before it starts to accelerate, Id like to catch this problem now, I hate working on these japanese cars, and in past experience what would be a common sense fixing problem, turns into stuff you couldn't have even perceived in the end, any ideas? also anytime it rains or snows(i live in utah) the passenger side floor turns into a damn!!! sometimes so bad we have to wetvac it! it's very irritating, and also the hazards and\or left-right turn signal will activate itself and will not turn off unless I pull out the fuse, the other night the cops banged on my door at 3:45a.m. seeing my car in the drive way shut off, signaling right!!! this also happens only when it has been raining or snowing!! any ideas on this. It's just pathetic, it's been a decent car, but decent really dosent cut it in my book anymore! Thanks
  • mazda_manmazda_man Member Posts: 3
    well i changed the cadilac converter the other night and that wasn't it either,i'm glad i changed it anyways some idiot who had the car before me clean it out so it made the car sound loud,anyways i did notice that my fresh air intake hose was really broke ,and to much air to the motor can cause it to not run all that great,so i ordered one of those it's not but 15.00 dollars,i tryed all the really great fuel injector cleaner,bc i thought that would mabye clean them out ,it's not running any better,i just hope and pray it the air intake hose and not the fuel injectors
  • carhelp101carhelp101 Member Posts: 5
    i see that you and i are having pretty much the exact same problem, except for the latter part of your messgae! i have an appt tomorrow to get mine changed checked out, via $65 diagnostic test! i'll let the board know what i find out, hoping it's not expensive! from what i've read, the 626 stopped being a japanese made car around 1994; they're made by ford now, which is an acronym for 'fix or repair daily!' i'll keep you posted on what the problem is!
  • hercyniumhercynium Member Posts: 2
    I never noticed the problem since I bought the vehicle a year ago, but I just got an oil change and the mechanic told me the engine was making a sucking sound that might indicate a cracked intake manifold. (This place doesn't fix that sort of thing, though) I opened the hood and heard it for myself, and it certainly isn't a healthy sound to me.

    From what I've read on this board, this seems to make sense, since this car sometimes stalls when idling, but only when the engine's hot.

    When it comes to cars I know very little. What I need to know: Is this a serious problem; should I get it fixed immediately? Also, what should I be expecting to pay for this repair? (Feel free to throw out estimates based on total guesses of what the problem might be.)

    So far this car has performed wonderfully, save for a radiator leak over the winter and a strange clicking sound coming from the front wheels when I make a really tight turn (my last car, a mazda 323 did that as well, and it always worried me, but never seemed to be a problem).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's rather odd for an INTAKE manifold to crack....exhaust manifolds are much more likely to do so.

    If you have a vacuum leak, sure, that's serious---you could burn your valves by screwing up your fuel mixture and driving your little engine computer crazy. But most vacuum leaks aren't that hard to fix unless the intake manifold is WARPED...and even then you can often take them off and have them machined flat again.
  • carhelp101carhelp101 Member Posts: 5
    i got my car looked at today and wanted to let you know what i found out....he ran the diagnostic, i'm not positive how to explain this, but basically, he said that the problem had not been occurring to long, so the problem had not been set officially in the system that the test reads.....the important part is this: one of the spark plugs had a crack in it and the spark plug wires were put on a little backwards...he said both of these things would cause the problems i'm having....he was not thrilled with the brand of wires that was put on it, he prefers a brand that of course, i can't remember! he did say that the oxygen censor shouldn't cause the problems that i'm having....basically, it's fine now, told me to watch it...only $100, it could have been worse! good luck! maybe you should change your plugs!
  • troymajestytroymajesty Member Posts: 1
    I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAve to replace the vehicle speed sensor
  • amzeusamzeus Member Posts: 8
    I also have a 98 626 5-speed V6, with almost 209,000miles mind you, and it just started to make this sucking sound as well. There are many things that could cause a sucking sound, but my problem, like Mr_Shiftright mentioned, is the exhaust manifold. You can visually check this (don't know if you have the 4cyl or if it's different) - under the front of the car in the very center just behind the rad you will see the exhaust manifold (attaches to the front of the engine). The mid line of the pipe tends to rust, and eventually small holes or cracks will form. Don't know how much to fix, I'm trying to get rid of this car as I bought a 2002 626 ES. I would also check the air intake, not the manifold, but where the air filter is and the hose leading from the filter to the throttle body for cracks. The filter housing is sometimes hard to install over the rubber filter frame, and it is possible the housing is leaking.
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