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Comments
Dont act too fast IMHO
PGP
Any thoughts on power loss? MAF or O2 ? Aside from CEL off and on, and weakness, all else was fine
Thx PGP
Can a bad MAF also create a bad OS reading. What if I do nothing? Car drives fine aside from long uphill climbs and Mileage was normal. Aside from CEL I wouldnt know anything was wrong
Thx PGP
PGP
good luck with it,
Shifty the Host
Most local auto parts stores sell noid lights.
If you are getting a pulse to that cylinder, you might have to check your fuel rail fuel pressure and see if that's proper. If that's proper, then I guess I'd pull the injector and replace it for that cylinder.
This ALL presumes that you are, in fact, getting a proper and consistent spark to that cylinder that isn't firing.
I dunno, without being there I don't want to tell you to go out and spend money. Just throwing out ideas for you based on what you are telling me.
He gave me prices for the catalyst converter which was $672 the o2 sensors (2) were $416.00. Are these prices this high b/c its a Mazda, b/c when I went to a couple of sites this morning, they advertised Mazda Converters for $149 and o2 sensors starting at $19.00. The mechanic told me that Mazda manufacturers their own products and if any others would be used, it would cause other problems. Is this true? Will someone give me some insight, please?
And not to mention...for the Tune-up... The wires were quote at $83 and the plugs were $32. and not to mention almost $90 :confuse: for labor alone!!!
In closing I had to change the evaporator on my Mercedes in NYC and Benz wanted $980 plus tax for the parts with an alleged 20% discount that I got because my friend owns a body shop .List price was $1200. I bought the same parts Bosch all around online for $600. Bosch plugs cost 2+ unless they are the platinum
Also you can call some of these online sites if you are buying a lot of stuff and get a better than advertised price . Sales people on the phone work on commision and can shop suppliers while you wait.Os sensors at $19 I would avoid $50 and up I do not know what model etc .
Do your due diligence online
PGP
Where did you lose the oil from If you lost it from the selas they aree $30 job plus parts Cost me $30 for OEM transaxle seals and $71 Eoros to have them and reman axles put in so check it out before you decide is all I am saying
Good Luck Peter
Thanks
Shane
I am curious if anyone has any ideas on what might be wrong with my 1991 Mazda 626 LX (2.2L non turbo) - it has 210,000 KM on it so far.
My car surges when idle, the RPM will bounce from 100 to 900. It may go through this cycle up to 10 times, then even out to 750RPM (where it should be).
My 626 will also hesitate from a stop, or stall all together, though this seldom happens. When the car is in neutral it idles nice and smooth. Driving in any gear once past the initial acceleration attempt, the car runs great.
There is no engine warning light or other obvious problems. There are no vacuum leaks (I had this checked already).
The problem began to show itself about a month ago and is now constant. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs and the spark plug wires are new as well. Makes no difference. This problems happens once the car has warmed up to normal operating temperature. (10 minutes or less)
For the problem to show itself the car must be in gear and the car must be stopped. It happens mainly when you come to a stop.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
TIA
i took the wheels off, removed the stupid little cover on the only caliper bolt that i could find (are there supposed to be 2 like normal calipers?) and tried to take it off, but it seems like just a tiny little bit of the bolt is left in, just enough to not let the caliper up and give me access to the pads. should i just whack it a couple of times with a screw driver and hammer or does anyone have any other suggestions?
I'm new to the site, found it searching for 626 problems... I currently have a 98 V6 626 5-speed with 335,000km (208,000 miles). Car still runs great exept for worn suspension and a troublesome gearbox - almost impossible to shift gears after driving on the highway or running the airconditioning. Regardelss, I found a 2002 ES 5-speed with 50,000miles on it and will most likely buy it. One trouble I did have on my 98 was a bad 3rd gear synchro (failed out of warranty - doh!), and I did notice on the 2002 that this same problem was starting to appear (which is still covered under warranty, so I'll get it replaced). Anyone else have bad synchro's in the 626? Is the stock tranny fluid not ideal?
Anyways, I hope the new one lasts just as long as the first. I may keep the 98 for parts, unless there are people who want a car with 335,000km -anyone interested, whole car? parts?
Mike
I have a remote car key, but I like to lock my car door using the button on the window when I step out of the car, now the key is not working anymore.
Starting from last month, the airbag signal starts to flash on and off. The transimission is running bad, humps with acceleartioin. Engine is loud and whenever I step on the gas, I feel like the car is suffering.
Anyone any ideas what is going on?
I read so many bad reviews about this car, not I wonder whether I should just drop it and get another car...
Then come back and tell us what they are .
Good Luck
PGP
(dear lord, you have a quater of a million miles on that car?? :surprise: how many transmissions did it take to get you there?)
No one is properly diagnosing this car. No codes, REALLY? That's very strang. Oh well, -- Why don't you dose it with a VERY strong injector cleaner, like from Swepco or BGK44, and then after running that for a while have someone read your air/fuel mixture---would be great if you could get on a dyno but I know that's expensive.
Being an intermittent problem, it could be injectors. I don't understand why we have no codes. Remember, a code-reading machine is only as good as the operator using it.
From what I've read on this board, this seems to make sense, since this car sometimes stalls when idling, but only when the engine's hot.
When it comes to cars I know very little. What I need to know: Is this a serious problem; should I get it fixed immediately? Also, what should I be expecting to pay for this repair? (Feel free to throw out estimates based on total guesses of what the problem might be.)
So far this car has performed wonderfully, save for a radiator leak over the winter and a strange clicking sound coming from the front wheels when I make a really tight turn (my last car, a mazda 323 did that as well, and it always worried me, but never seemed to be a problem).
If you have a vacuum leak, sure, that's serious---you could burn your valves by screwing up your fuel mixture and driving your little engine computer crazy. But most vacuum leaks aren't that hard to fix unless the intake manifold is WARPED...and even then you can often take them off and have them machined flat again.