Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda 626 Troubles

1333436383950

Comments

  • paulincoloradopaulincolorado Member Posts: 1
    Engine Light Flashes on / off VERY briefly during warm up period. During this time the Mazda bucks or acts as if it is being pushed by a trailer for just a moment. If it's parked and idling the RPM's will dip and idle is rough but when the engine light is on.

    After the engine warms up it just purrrs - Engine Light no longer comes on or even blinks. Could it be the O2 sensor or the EGR? :confuse:

    Thanks - Paul
  • bwade1bwade1 Member Posts: 8
    The first thing I'd check would be the refridgerant level. It's usually the most likely problem if you're a/c isn't blowing as cold as you'd like.
    Ideally the temperature in of the air coming out of the vent is about 40 deg. F, but if it's hot outside, then it should be about 35-40 degress cooler than the air temp.
    It's best to have a mechanic certified in a/c repairs to check the pressure and add more r-134a if necessary.
    If you want to do it yourself you can buy a kit at the auto parts store near you.
    If your system is blowing somewhat cool air still, don't add more than 1 small can of r-134a. The entire system only holds about 2 cans total, so if it's a little low, then less than 1 can will do.
  • oshawaoshawa Member Posts: 16
    I had this happen back in the winter.

    Check your air intake hose for splits/cracks.
  • oshawaoshawa Member Posts: 16
    Just peek underneath the car, check if boot('s) cracked. If it is the CV drive shaft, it is a SOB to replace.
  • hazehaze Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just got the diagnosis engine code PO 421 (on a mazda 626 year 98).
    If I understand things correctly from your discussion
    - there is a 8year warrant from mazda
    - the PO 421 code means that I should replace the cat converter
    - doing nothing wouldnt hurt the car - just makes its impossible to pass the smog/emission check
    - I could buy a cat converter for 150+ usd or so and replace it myself

    thanks
    haze
  • sudongsudong Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help!!!
  • xerosxeros Member Posts: 2
    I got a 1990 Mazda 626 DX from a friend about a year ago. Original engine, auto trans., and Fuel injection. 197000 miles.
    Recently I was driving home and my CEL started flashing in some pattern. I pulled over and it looked like there was low oil. so I filled it up. Today the light came on again but without the flashing. It will only come on while I am doing city driving. My MPG is hanging around 10-13(if that helps at all). I was also wondering if I should spend the $85 to take it to the dealership to ONLY get the codes from OBD1.
  • smokin739smokin739 Member Posts: 1
    My starter broke away from the engine. How do I get the starter out? there are electrical wires and tons of SH$% in the way. Can anyone help me or point me in the right direction. Do I go from the top or the bottom?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Which engine?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    You obviously need to remove the valve to inspect it. This means you must remove the refrigerant from the system. One way to clean the valve without damaging it is with compressed air, or with a thin wire. I o not believe these are that expensive to replace either. I would not remove the valve for inspection and cleaning until I eliminated all other possible causes. BTW, at 115k miles, my coolant bottle developed a slow leak again, so I needed to replace it. This time the A/C connector did not get contaminated.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    No, 4 cylinder manual tranmsission cars are much more reliable than 4 cyl automatics. V6 models have pretty good Japanese built auto transaxle.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Severe steering wheel shake could be cuased by a bad tire with a broken steel belt, or by a loose tie rod. Not so severe shaking by a tire badly out of balance.
  • jkiserjkiser Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    Our 1988 Mazda 626 has been quite reliable but, recently we have ran into two problems:

    1. When I try to start it, nothing, indicator lights come on but no crank. So, I am forced to push start it every time. I have to look for hills to park on, what a pain. It got this way, but at first it would fluctuate, start, not start, start, start, not start...
    Then just a few days ago it just won't start without popping the clutch on a push.
    What could be wrong? Distributor? Starter? I replaced selanoid already, what do you suggest?

    2. Just a day ago I noticed my 626 having hard time accelerating. So when I try to get on highway it takes a slow entrance and soon I am up to speed but the engine doesn't have the same umph as usual. What could be going on here?

    I also was wondering what should be checked on a tune-up? I really need to have one done soon. I want to know what is best for my vehicle.

    I really appreciate any form of reply and I just can't express how impressed by all of the posters here. What a wonderful sense of cooperation.
  • lpchouinardlpchouinard Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 626 DX 1994 4cyl 2.0 manual, here's my problem. Yesterday when i stopped at the red light (after driving on the high way for half an hour, engine running3k rpm) my battery light turned on, it went like this for the next 10 light or so and then it didn't reappear... I suspect the alternator, is there any other possibility? I changed the battery with a brand new one this winter. Also, when i accelarate too quickly (on sliperry surface ;-) ) the front tire loose grip and then the car start to jump!!! the problem is: me, front suspension, motor rack/stand or else????
  • yahyah Member Posts: 2
    hey, I haven't had a tuneup on my 626 2002 yet by I get my spark plugs changed so why is my check engine light on again and there telling me at auto zone tht it's another misfire on cylinder 3 and I changed it 2 mons ago w/ plugs& wires. Help anyone!!
  • yahyah Member Posts: 2
    help what is a good price for a tune up
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    I have heard from many here that Auto zone will pull the codes for free. I do not know if that applies to OBD1 models.What other symptoms aside from just the CEL? There are Mazda sites that show you how to draw the codes yourself ,My Mazda is a little confusing. Usually it is done by jumping the tens pin and the grnd pin in the Diagnostic Locator box that is next to the battery. You should be able to do a google for your year car and get the exact instructions from a mazda 626 site. Those sites have generation 1 which is prolly yours . Good Luck
    :) Also this forum may have gen 1 cars on its home page
    Good Luck
  • boltsbolts Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 1994 Mazda 626 ES V6, automatic. Within the last month or so, my car has begun to stall while slowing down, progressivly becoming more frequent. All that needs to be done is to put the car in park, turn it off and re-start (starts no problem). More recently, in addition to that problem, while driving the car it jerks and the engine light comes on. The engine light is usually on, unless the car is turned off and started again (some times a few times). I brought it to Mazda to do a diagnostics and they said it was the distributor assembly. I brought it to a mechanic that just changed it for a new distributor. On the way home same problem occured and when stopped it's even worse now, it seems like it's going to die. Any suggestins? I think I may have waisted a lot of money. Please feel free to e-mail me any suggestions or thoughts. THANKS FOR ANY HELP
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    Hi, the gas pedal on my Mazda 626 (1996) is very hard first thing in the morning or if the car has been parked for some time. If i start the car and give it upto a minute the pedal will be fine. Or unless i give it a good kick when i'm in a hurry, but not always happy doing this.

    Is this by design or is there a fault? the car has done 102k miles, if this has anything to with it.

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • kent5kent5 Member Posts: 3
    I'm considering to buy a 2000 Mazda 626 LX with an auto transmission. My friend, who helped me test driving it, felt "not smooth" when he stepped on the gas pedal. Especially when transmission shifts, he feels a little shake. I was wondering if anybody had the same experience. Is it a big problem? Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The throttle plate tends to stick in it's bore from built up residue. Time to clean the throttle body out. Remove the air intake ducting, have someone hold the throttle wide open, and spray in a liberal amount of air intake cleaner (not carb cleaner). Scrub the throttle body bore and the back of the throttle plate with an old toothbrush, wipe out the residue with clean wipers, and you should be good to go.
  • kristywahoo1kristywahoo1 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2002, WHICH NOW NEEDS A TRANSMISSION REBUILT!!!! I'm a complete wreck because of this disaster - i just got this car not even a year ago, and it's a newer model, nothing should be going wrong! i was wondering if you found out anything new on the subject matter since. I'm really upset about this, and i'm not paying this bill without a fight!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Have you tried calling Mazda customer service and asking them whether they'd be willing to split the cost? Manufacturers often will, as a "good faith" gesture.
  • dorsiainruinsdorsiainruins Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX that I purchased in April of this year and I've been trying to diagnose my interior light problem. All the lights (dome and driver/passenger overhead lights) work fine if you manually turn them on, but when I open the doors, they don't automatically turn on. I've checked all fuses and they're fine. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Have you checked the door switches. If they stick shut, the light will not come on when doors are open.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Sorry to hear that, but there is ton of information available on horrible history of 4 cyl Mazda 626 auto transmissions. It is a good idea to do a little research before buying a car with problematic history. A manual transmission would have been a far wiser choice in this car.
  • danyekdanyek Member Posts: 2
    I experienced this problem w/ my Dodge Caravan and went thru the entire deduction process. The culprit was a camshaft position sensor. Apparently the sensor was going bad. It was a $40 part and eblow grease on my part. No problems since the replacement. Good luck.
  • boltsbolts Member Posts: 3
    You think so? Well it's 3 aftermarket distributors now. The mechanic is going to try a new mazda distributor, or changing the crank sensor. I have no clue. It's frustrating. I've spent 4 days in a garage.
  • wmlove3wmlove3 Member Posts: 1
    hey did you ever solve this problem? If so what did you do?
    Thanks
  • kirbydalekirbydale Member Posts: 1
    I guess this is more of a radio problem as opposed to the car. I have a 2000 626 with the Bose 6-disc cd player. When trying to eject a disc the other day, it started flashing out and has not stopped.

    I can use the radio and tape deck but not the CD player. Does anyone know how to reset it or remove the face and manually remove the cd?
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    Hi Alcan, your fix worked a treat. I am now unstuck in the morning. Cheers.
    However, my Mazda has suddenly developed another illness which is a pain in the rear. It's now 'coughing and spluttering' when I drive. I thought it may have been related to the sticky pedal, so i gave the throttle body bore and plate a good clean. Well, it fixed the pedal issue but the coughing wasn't resolved. I've narrowed it down to when i press the gas pedal quickly it struggles, there is no power and the whole car shakes. If I accelerate slowly and gently, its better. Its also terrible up a hill. I'm now desperate, huge lorries are overtaking me on the motorway! Please help!!!!! Thanks. :sick:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If this condition developed right after cleaning the throttle body, take a good look at the air intake ducting and make sure there are no cracks or splits between the airflow sensor and the throttle body which could allow unmetered air to enter the engine. Mazda's can be bad for that and it would cause the engine to run lean, giving the symptoms you describe.
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    Hi. Its strange actually, the problem happened before cleaning the throttle body, which is what prompted me to clean it. Looking through previous postings, I decided to clean the MAF. this had a major difference, but it still has the occasional 'cough' whilst driving. I also noticed that one of the HT leads was wet with water (1st from the right). The air filter is also quite dirty but was only replaced 2 and half months ago. I'll check the air intake ducting to make sure there are no cracks. Many thanks for you help by the way.

    I think my lovely mazda has become a pensioner!......
  • svandasvanda Member Posts: 1
    The transmission Shift of my 1991 Mazda 626 is stuck on parking. It wont budge. I thought that maybe the lock [hold] was on but it is not. Can't find my car manual to see how I can fix it. Any help?
  • shygirl2shygirl2 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1995 Mazda 626 (ES). The brake indicator light on the dash stays on at all times. There does not appear to be any problems with the brake system and the car dealer claims that the car sat around on the lot for a long time and that is the reason (???). Any ideas? Thanks. I really appreciate any help.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Maybe if some of the brake fluid leaked out! The fact that the car sat on the lot for a long time is a really poor reason for not looking into the problem if that's what they're trying to do.

    Low pressure in the brake lines can cause the warning light to come on, which could be a result of fluid leakage.

    A problem with the warning light switch for the parking brake handle/pedal could also be the cause.

    If you just purchased the car then I think it would be reasonable to expect the dealer to look into this. You can't be too careful with brakes.
  • shygirl2shygirl2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. I did ask the dealer (a used car dealer, you know how they can be) about this problem, but he said this was an "as is" deal and said that I would have to pay extra for an inspection and any subsequent repair. He basically just danced around the problem by saying that the car had sat on the lot for a long period of time. But, thank you so much for giving me something to go on here because I am clueless when it comes to cars.
  • boltsbolts Member Posts: 3
    I actually have fixed the problem. So, first new distributor not from mazda, and second a new crank sensor. Car runs beautifully. A little sluggish pick up, but I'm guessing that's due to the age of the car.
  • brodbrod Member Posts: 1
    I've been looking/researching ALL day to attempt to make a wise decision. We are looking at a neighbors 1994 626 V6 at with 150,000 on it. I don't know if the trans has ever been replaced but I would like to know of individual owners experience overall, and seek input in order to make up my mind. She is only charging $800. Someone did hit the rear driver door but other that that the car is in good shape. Thanks for the help.
  • 88mazda_girl88mazda_girl Member Posts: 2
    I love my Mazda but its been giving me trouble for the past year. When i bought it it only had 16,000 miles, which is great for an 88. It has around 60,000 now. The first thing that had to be fixed was the gas tank, which me and my Dad replaced. Then it did fine for awhile, and then the tires and brakes. Then it just started to lose its power. When i first got it it drove like a dream, and now it will barely make it to town and back without overheating. When i push on the gas it just has no power, and the whole car jerks and shakes bad.I changed the spark plugs and wires and it sounds a little better. About 3 months ago my oil light came on and it was very low, so i took it in and they changed the oil , about 2 weeks later the oil light came on again. It was dry so i put oil in and it would run out in about 2 days. A friend then replaced a part that oil was coming out of and it quit leaking but still runs bad. I think it running low for so long has caused problems, but i don't trust the mechanics around here, so i wanted some advice. please help,Crystal
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Remove the air intake ducting between the airflow meter and the throttle body, and check it for any cracks or other damage that would allow unmetered air to enter the engine. Also, is the check engine light on?
  • dphatmondphatmon Member Posts: 3
    I have purchased a used 1997 Mazda 626 DX a couple of weeks ago. It has a four cylinder engine. The car was in bood shape and rides fairly well. I have started to have stalling problems in low idle while sitting at a traffic light or making a slow turn. This weekend I have paid the Mazda dealer $300.00 to clean my fuel injectors, induction system, and increase the idle speed adjustment, but this still has not resolved my problem. Mazda told me this morning that I had a loose number 4 spark plug that was not getting full compression since it was loose. When I received the car this evening it was a lot smoother and not stalling, but a few moments ago, the car stalled again at a traffic light. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? The car is in good shape, but it continues to stall at low idle speed. I know it is something simple to fix, but I am becoming frustated by this situation. Help please!
  • 88mazda_girl88mazda_girl Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, that hasn't been checked yet. No the engine light hasn't came on. I've been driving it cause i have no choice right now, but it sounds terrible and when i get to about 40 it just rattles and shakes. When im sitting at a stoplight its bad and i have to slam it to get it to go. Im broke right now so if theres anything i can figure out myself it would help. :sick: .
  • ryantatum20ryantatum20 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    There is a resistor located under the passenger side dash. You'll have to unscrew two screws to get to it after you drop the kick panel. It's rectangle in shape and once you pull it out of the vent you'll see coils on the top of it.

    It's about a $60 part that comes from Mazda service.
  • iluvmymazdailuvmymazda Member Posts: 6
    Hi, many thanks for your reply.
    i did as you suggested and pulled out the resistor. On my model it is a black plastic housing with what looks like a silver credit card attached to it. There are no coils on it?
    I live in the UK. Could this be why it is different from your suggestion?
  • rg500rg500 Member Posts: 2
    I wish everyone to stand up against Mazda, get all your reciepts for your gearboxes you payed for - including mine, and post them to Mazda Corp. for complete refund. Fancy stuffing up so bad on a gearbox thats so electronically reliant that they can get away with sumthing like this without even recalling all the cars to be fixed or replaced with new 1s,Mazda ? , you have totally destroyed any confidence in your cars that i have - had. Zooom Zooom, cough cough, splatter platter. Peice of junk, parts are expensive, unreliable etc.

    I read in a website once when i was looking for a problem with , "Harsh Gearchanging" for my Mazda 626 93'. It said, "If your walking up the street and a mazda automatic is on your side of the road, then cross to the other side. Do not buy an automatic mazda between the years of 92' - 96'. do not except a ride in one." One month later, i pulld outfrom the curb and was cruising up the hill (slight hill) and all of a sudden, i noticed the "HOLD: light on the dash came on, the revs started to increase and the car started slowing. All my worries happened at that second. Cut a long story short, a second hand gearbox for $750 AUD. Its not exactly good either, it slides into gears with cosiderable delay, like slipping. This apparently is normal, it makes a sort of grinding noise every now and then when shifting in2 fourth. I've had enuf, its gooooooone. Rough idling ? yeah doing that too. TRied the electronic tune up, no good. tried cleaning the throttle body sensor, no good. Next step is, cut my losses , get rid of it and - Not buy a Mazda. Sorry guys ( & girls), dont mean to sound negative but i tell ya for me, Mazdas and Mitsubishi's can please them selves. Ive been building hot cars sinse i learnt to drive a manual at the tender age of 12. I've turbo'd them , nitrous oxided them, changed engines rebuilt them and made cars and bikes a small part of my learning life. I know when theres a problem, when sumthings just not rite, and Mazda have just given themselves such a bad name for these cars. Problem is, Mazda are being arrogant and ignorant to all the consumers that have payed a lot of money for one of their products that are guerenteed to fail prematurily - or how ever you spell it, lol. Happy days people. This Aussie is going to settle for the good o'l local market. A Holden car (Aussie made), North South engine with a tail shaft and diff, 5 speed "manual" trannie, minimal electronics, and just as comfy if not more so than that bloody mazda im about to say good by too, all the best folks.
  • rg500rg500 Member Posts: 2
  • cathygcathyg Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 1997 626 on Friday. While driving it home the O/D off started to flash and it was shifting hard, I thought I had done something, not to sure about O/D switches. After letting the car sit for a few mins turned off, the flashing light went off. The next morning while on the Hwy. the engine light and the O/D off light started flashing, shifting hard and smoke coming out from under the hood. I looked under the hood and something was leaking out of the motor on the side.
    I took the car back to the dealership right away. He will take it to his mechanic on Monday to find out what is going on.
    I am in Ontario, do I have a right to ask for a refund? I did get a warranty for engine/tranny unlimited kms. but it won't cover anything that happens 500 kms or 15 days within purchasing the car, states it is a pre-existing condition.
    What legal rights do I have? I am not sure I want the car even if its fixed now, I don't know that I will trust it in the future.
  • xerosxeros Member Posts: 2
    my automatic '90 DX has a similar problem. I just have to let it roll for a second before I try to accelerate. As for slow turns, I have done what I mentioned or floor the pedal. Flooring it won't seem to respond imediately, but if you don't let up, it should respond after 5-7 seconds. Both have worked for me a few times. If this helps at all, it is proof that there has been little improvement in seven years of producing these vehicles. :P
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Hi Guys I just got back to USA from Greece and it was too hot to even think of working on my wifes car while I was there. Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF .I looked at the air filter box for cracks briefly and saw that the passenger side towards the front of car filter box is not completely closed. I can see the orange filter housing. Does anyone have the same year 1994 4 cylinder car w/atx and is that normal? I know Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it shoud. Could this be the reason. Also I have a dramatic loss of power in the mountainous ranges in Greece where the air is thinner to begin with> Also yesterday on the way to airport car was shuddering a little ataround 65 MPOH and higher . I will be going back to Greec in 6 weeks and would like to know what parts to take with me
    Tia Peter
Sign In or Register to comment.