Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda 626 Troubles

1353638404150

Comments

  • dougsbartdougsbart Member Posts: 1
    I recently aquired the 92 626. #1 Plug was blown apart, compression test showed about 150 PSI in #1. #2 had 0 PSI. So i figured it was a head problem. Took off and re-worked head, replaced and still had about 150 PSI on #1 and only about 60 PSI on #2. My son has been driving the car for a little while, just a back and forth to school car. Last night "boom" blew #1 plug apart again and no compreesion on #2. I am trying to figure are these problems related, or are the rings bad in #2 and no relation to the unusually high compression in #1? Is the head bad, maybe cracked somewhere that I missed? Incidentally #3 and 4 are what I would consider normal at about 100PSI. I have never seen a plug blow out like this before.

    Pls advise, Thanks,
    Doug
  • bohookbohook Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Mazda 626lx with automatic trans. Upon returning to my car I started the engine and put the car in reverse but the engine just revs. I can select drive, and reverse but I can't feel the trans engaging. The shift selecter seemed a bit loose so I checked the linkage cable in the interior and it moves with the selecter . I'm unsure how to identify the same cable under the hood. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?
  • 626er626er Member Posts: 1
    Good bet that the MAF is bad if you are having to prop it open and allowing a very rich mixture. Also, be sure to check the throttle body hose for cracks. My 90 626 ran lousy. Never could find the problem. Replaced the MAF with one from salvage yard (recommend go to reputable yard) but still ran rough. Finally pulled the hose and discovered large crack in bottom of hose. Couldn't see or detect it until I took it completely off. Replaced hose (again from salvage yard) and engine perked right up. Be sure to disconnect the batttery before you remove the MAF and take care to remove the MAF connector clip carefully. Total cost: MAF $55, hose $10, running smoothly - priceless!
  • underdhoodunderdhood Member Posts: 1
    Proud owner of 1990 626 LX. V-6 w/175,000 miles.
    A/T with the economy/power mode select.
    Have had a problem which has gradually gotten worse.
    From a stop, with light to standard acceleration, the 1 to 2 shift is accompanied by a huge BANG. It is like a SAM missile hits the left front of the car. Any possible "Hail Mary" fixes i.e.; band adjustment, governor replacement, sensor failure? Or is this the sign the Old Faithful is now swirling around the drain?
    Am from old school, where you don't change fluid after 100,000 miles. So I'm a little learry of pulling the pan unless it gives up completely. The Dr's oath, first do no harm. Thanks!
    ps: does this have a lock-up tourque converter? If so, does it have it's own wiring harness?
  • earlylight1earlylight1 Member Posts: 2
    2 Fridays ago, car shut off while coming to a stop. Started after a few cranks. A couple miles later started running ruff slowing down to a light, I put it in nuetral and it stopped spuddering put it back into drive-it spuddered 2x then that was it. I also added dry gas... the problem stopped. The following Thursday driving down the highway the car shut off and I had it towed. My mechanic replaced the distributor cause he said there was no spark. The car started, I went in the shop to pay my mechanic and I came out to the car and it shut off again. My mechanic ordered a manual to find out the electric system, he thinks the problem is before the distributor. HELP!
  • junky626junky626 Member Posts: 1
    I am having this same problem. Did you get it fixed? If so, how much approximately. My engine check light has been on for over a week now.
    Thanks so much for the help.
    Kathy

    kathyk@cebridge.net
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    What year and model is your car? ATX or Manual? Some of us have the books but for which car.
    PGP :)
  • earlylight1earlylight1 Member Posts: 2
    626 2.5 auto...
    The car shuts off when I accelerate over 2750 rpms...going up hill or over 55. I have put on 2 used distributors. engine computer, new fuel filter, changed air intake hose (from air filter to engine) and it is still doing it. Check engine light does not come on.
    I found out there are 2 types of distributors a small cam (0.4??) and a large cam(0.5??)could my mechanic put in the wrong size? is that possible?
    I took it to the Mazda dealer and they say I need a MAZDA distributor? My mechanic disagrees...
  • couchladycouchlady Member Posts: 1
    I have a 4 cy. 1998 626 LX-manual tranny. We keep having a problem with the check engine light and a slight surge in the engine when it is idling. The air idle control valve has been cleaned, as has the throttle body. We have replaced the knock sensor, and an air sensor. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing the check engine light. Our mechanic is stumped
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Which diagnostic trouble code numbers were retrieved?
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    According to my manual there are 9 different possibilities for general loss of power. Prolly the reason mechanic is stumped.`But there should be a pecking order to what should be diagnosed. Have you joined ALLDATA? Maybe you could direct question to Alcan he seems to know a lot about Mazdas if you can get his attention or Email him.
    Good Luck
    PGP :)
  • mikefoxmikefox Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 mazda 626, 5 speed. I got into it the other day and noticed that my car was staying reved at about 2000 rpms even with the clutch in, and the charge (battery) light came on, and on top of that my heat stopped working (i know, its a handful). I just put a new battery in it, but am a little stupped on what this problem could be with all the symptoms...if anyone has any suggestions it would be helpful

    Thanks
  • tomsurferguytomsurferguy Member Posts: 1
    Yeah ok I have a 92 Mazda 626 Automatic..but My Charge light came on aswell and my heat stopped working...what it was with mine was the Alternator Belt needed to be re attached (ok a new had to be put on)..But newayz..I didn't know that until the car died 45 minutes from my house b/c the battery had been drained...thought it was strange b/c I had just gotten the car and Had just put in a brand spankin new battery and it died...found out earlier in the day when i was test running it making sure it ran..the alternator belt snapped and fell off..look for the alternator and see if it had a belt attached..If it does take it to Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone and get them to check your alternator

    Tom :)
  • mickeyz1mickeyz1 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having problem with my Mazda 626 1.8 LXi 1997 (manual) for last 3 weeks. Car has done 63000 and was very reliable for last 5 years.
    I have seen few mechanics, including Mazda service. Mazda suggested to change catalytic converter, which I did, but the problem is still there. I was trying to speak to the technician who diagnosed the problem, but they said that I have to come again for diagnoses and I would be charged again (£50)...
    The symptoms of the problem are:
    - Car loosing power under load, especially on higher revs and when it goes up a hill. The problem is worse when the engine is cold
    - When the car is stationary, pressing on accelerator the engine works smoothly even over 4000 rpm. Car starts OK when hot or cold
    - Car has stopped few times going up a hill with cold engine. After about 20 seconds the car would start and run like before (going hardly up the hill)
    - On motorway can go up to 75 miles/hour

    Parts that have been changed:
    - spark plugs
    - air filter
    - engine filter
    - Catalytic converter

    Mazda garage suggested changing catalytic converter, silencer and pre-silencer. After changing converter there were not any improvements, so I did not bothered with the rest.
    I would be grateful if someone can help.
  • awaidyaawaidya Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 mazda 626. It had a complete engine overhaul 2 years ago. After every oil change (roughly 4 weeks) oil color starts to turn black and eventually burn rapidly. I have to add 1 qrt every 2 weeks. The problem had even before the engine overhaul. Any expert suggestion would be really appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • pdanapdana Member Posts: 19
    I was wondering if anybody knows anything about the 1992 mazda 626, with four cylinder and automatic trans? I need something to get around town in. I saw this one and it says it only has 80k miles on it and that it runs good. I've seen where a lot of these cars seem to have transmission problems, was this also the case for the '92? Thanks for any info.
  • georges2georges2 Member Posts: 2
    hi bolts,

    I have the same car as yours and is dead since 4 months.the engine is not going on, at mazda they said it is the distributor, here (lebanon)I could not find the part,even used or new.I waited 4 months to bring from outside the country and it did not work.
    I finally saw your posts.
    PLEASE PLEASE help me. what is the crank sensor, where does it fit? etc...Because I exchanged the complete distributor with all what's inside and the engine still doesn't start.(No sparks from the plugs)
    I do really appreciate if you can help.
  • looloo20looloo20 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. First time poster wondering if anyone could give me some advice. Got into my 93,626, 2.5L, Manual yesterday and turned on the ignition, and when the car started a strange beeping noise started coming from the dashboard with none of the dummy lights accompanying it. Turned the car off and on again and there was no beeping the second time. I'm really scared to drive the car because I Know I need to check my timing belts, and I don't need another blown engine. I'm a 19 yr old female and I need to use my car this week or I'm gonna miss an important photo shoot.
    Please Help
  • georges2georges2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, usually if the key is in the ignition switch and the door is open you should hear a beeping noise, but in your case you said that when you turned off then on no more beeping, I think this can be the seat belt reminder.
  • langerlanger Member Posts: 6
    I have 1990 Mazda 626 GLX, 4cyl, 12 valve, 2.0 l, 5 spd manual trans. I recently changed the head with a 1989, but now it keeps going out of time, does anyone know how many teeth are on the '89 camshaft sprocket versus the '90 as I think this may be the problem. :confuse:
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    if your timing belt should break, it wont harm the engine. You have a "non-interference" engine in that car. You would have to tow it to a garage and replace the belt, but no harm to valves or pistons...
  • bosikonabosikona Member Posts: 1
    I need to find a after market exhaust manifold for my 2001 MAxda 626 4-litre...Can anyone help?
  • rebeccakrebeccak Member Posts: 2
    Hello:

    Can anyone help me with this question, please? I'm tired of asking my mechanics what’s the problem with my car and getting nowhere for they’re always giving me the run around and fix something other than the one I want to be fixed (female situation I guess…)
    Every time I start the car... first thing in the morning or after a few hours there’s a squealing sound. I believe it’s a belt but ‘m not sure which one. Can anyone help me with this?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a common slipping belt symptom, or a bad bearing in the idler pulley upon which the belt revolves. I'd replace the offending belt and tighten it properly and/or inspect the idler pulley for excessive wear and wobble.
  • tdreotdreo Member Posts: 17
    Here's the story:
    I bought my 4th Mazda, a 2001 626 (4cyl, auto) and about a year later my 5th, a 2002 626 (4cyl, auto). At the time, I was under the impression that the transmission problems were solved, boy was I dumb for believing that.
    The 2001 tranny died at 22,000 miles, under warranty thank God.
    The dealer claimed "we've never seen a 2001 go bad"
    The 2002 died last week. The car was 3 years old (almost to the day) with 60,000 miles on it. After much complaining and dealing, Mazda went from "you're on your own" to being so thankful that I have bought 5 cars from them they would cover half of the cost (what a treat!). What a ungrateful, arrogrant company. To make the story a little shorter, it cost me $2000 for my "half". I flat-out told them that this 5th Mazda would be my last if they did not cover the repair but they didn't seem to care. Bye-bye Mazda, I guess 5 isn't enough. I'd lay odds Mazda will be the next GM in a few years.
  • mrsinkmrsink Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes my Mazda 626 (2002, 6 cyl.) starts slowly from a stop - almost seems to lose its breath when I press on the accelerator. It feels like there's an air bubble in the gas line or it's about to stall or something. (Not a mechanic, sorry.) Problem is worse when engine is cold. Sometimes this is almost dangerous, like when I need to move a little faster to catch a space from a turn, into traffic. I wind up having to wait for big long spaces because the car literally moves in slow motion for about 3-5 seconds. Has anyone seen this in their Mazda or know what the problem is / how to fix it? :confuse: Thanks.
  • rebeccakrebeccak Member Posts: 2
    thank you Mr_Shiftright. that's exactly what was wrong. hmmm i like this site :) i should visit it often.
  • tdreotdreo Member Posts: 17
    Mine (2002, 4 cyl)does the same thing.
    I've changed the plugs, wires and the ignition coil with no change. My next guess is a bad injector or fuel pump.
    Let me know if you find anything on yours.

    Thanks
    Tony
  • k_mank_man Member Posts: 1
    My 98' 626 4cyl, 5 speed, does that exact same thing. It always seem to hesitate when accelerating, and then all of a sudden take off as I let off the gas (should work the other way around). Lately it rattles as it accelerates, as if it is out of breath. I changed, sparkplags (then for a little while it went better), gas pump, etc..nothing really helps. Now, the stupid thing even drops RPM to about 450...when idling and when the engine is warm. I keep thinking it will die on me any minute. This car never seemed to be doing well. I had an RX7 before and had no problems, yet when I buy this dumb sedan it never runs right,
    I bought it with 49000 miles, but I never liked the way it ran...

    Please help if you have any thought on this.

    k-man.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    someone asked not too long ago about the 4-cyl tranny in a '92 626. I'm curious about the same year. What year 4-cyl autos should be avoided?

    thanks.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • kaos64kaos64 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the Cam sensor is located? My CEL came on and I took it to Autozone for the free diagnostic. The error shows a "Bank 1 cam sensor malfunction". Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The cam sensor is an integral part of the distributor according to this info:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/47/c1/09- 00823d801447c1.jsp
  • babeautobabeauto Member Posts: 10
    I hope someone can help me with this. I am about to sell my 96 Mazda 626, 4 cylinder. Hasn't been a terrible car, but enough small problems starting popping up that I chose to buy a new car instead of fixing the 'ol 626. I bought a new Mazda6 s Wagon with the 6speed ATX. Anwyay....on the old 626, I can no longer get the key into the Drivers side door lock. Is there anyway I could fix this myself?? I am selling the car tomorrow, and would like to fix this for them. Any suggestions??
  • mulch528mulch528 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 (4 cyl auto.) It does the same thing. The plugs and wires were changed about six weeks ago. But doesn't seem to help this problem.

    I now have a check engine light that goes on when accelerating at approx. 45-50 mph. It eventually goes away. When this happens, it sounds like it is missing....

    Have any ideas?
  • michiganmazdamichiganmazda Member Posts: 1
    What did you find was the final solution?
    We are having the same problem with a 2002, 626 with only 13,000 miles on it.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    My 1999 ES V6 5 speed has the cam sensor located inside the rear valve cover, close to a cam sprocket. 1999 626 V6 does not have a distributor though.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Hi Guys,
    I just got to Greece and brought the Bosch MAF with me. When mechanic drew codes, no code for MAF showed , just a 181 which is oxygen sensor. Having previously pulled both 159 MAf and 181 Os sensor I had him install the MAF against his judgement. I then cleared the codes and told him I would bring O2 sensor next trip.
    I pulled out of the shop and CEL came on one time ONLY.I REPEAT ONE TIME ONLY! I drove car all around at all speeds up to 85 MPH and it never came back on again.
    My impression is the PCM might have been receiving errors from both, but changing MAF ONLY seems to have rebooted the PCM and for now at least car drives fine. I will be going up to mountainous regions in a few weeks and that will be the final test.
    AT least to me, that shows how one bad sensor can influence another sensor and make it be out of range.
    I will advise after mountain test.
    Thx and I hope this helps someone else
    PGP
    P.S. People can do a search to find the entire saga if interested :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    EUREKA!!!!!!!! LOL

    Keep up posted.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Well its me again.After fixing check engine light (I HOPE) now onto the clunking sound in the front end. I changed the CV joints a while ago and its not them. The mechanic here says its the bearings and strut plate that need to be replaced.I do not have much faith in Greek mechanics and looking through my Haynes manual, I do not really see any reference to this as a possible cause.
    Any advice Alcan or Mr Shiftright or any other knowledgeable person? Does this seem right . Other Mazda place thought it might be stabilizer links, and to wait till it gets worse to know definitely. Who to believe and how to test/find out ? If in fact, it is strut plate and bearings , will waiting cause any more serious damage .
    Just a clunk/clink sound when turning wheel at rest like the CV joints which are now perfect.
    Thanks again
    Peter :)
  • warrior626warrior626 Member Posts: 1
    I was also having clunking in the front of my '01 626 ES, but it went away after i had the tires replaced. I have no idea why it happened, but i just thought i'd throw it out there. It doesn't really seem to make sense, but it worked for me.

    Also, i was just wondering if anyone else has had any problems with their Bose CD player. When i bought the car, there was a CD stuck in the player (Black Eye'd Peas, yuck). The CD plays fine, but it won't come out. I was thinking it might be something as simple as a broken lever somewhere, but i've never fiddled with a car stereo before. It hasn't really effected me, as I use an mp3 player with a fm transmitter, but it would be nice to be able to use the CD player without having to take it to a mechanic.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    I was going to put at least 2 new front tires on car also, maybe 4 all around . I will give that a shot first, before replacing any front end parts, although I do not think it will solve the problem .
    Thx
    Peter
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If it's making the noise turning the wheel with the car stationary, try this. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you reach in past the front wheel and hold your hand against the spring. If it's an upper mount bearing binding then releasing, you'll feel it through the spring when it releases.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Thx Alcan,
    I will try that tomorrow and let you know
    Peter :)
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Alcan you DA MAN:)
    Thats the feeling I get from the spring so I guess it isthe bearing thats bad. Mechanic said bearing and plate . Does that mean "strut mounting kit". I see bearing listed separately, a mount listed, and a mounting kit. I do not see plate and bearing separately and am afraid of ordering wrong parts.
    Also is this a dangerous condition or can it wait for 3 months or 1500 miles max till I get back to USA and back,to get the correct parts?
    Thx Again
    PETER
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Hi Peter, t'was just a lucky guess. Without pulling it apart and inspecting the components it's hard to say what condition the upper mounts and spring seats are in. The component causing the clunk is the bearing binding then releasing, but if it's a '94 it's a pretty good bet that the seats and mounts are deteriorated too.

    Another option, order the mount kits and the bearings separately, then return the kits if only the bearings are needed. That way, you'll have all the parts necessary. Nothing more frustrating that removing the struts and disassembling them only to find that there are additional worn parts which you don't have on hand and which will require duplicating all the labour.If it was me doing this repair, I'd just go ahead and order the mount kits. Should include items 3, 4 and 5 as shown here:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801451d7.gif

    A note of caution, a spring compressor MUST be used to disassemble the struts for mount replacement or that mount coming at you at about Mach 3 when the piston rod nut is removed could be the last thing you see.

    Will also need an alignment afterwards.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Hi Alcan,
    My confusion lies in these 2 types of different sets sold.
    This is the strut mounting kit #L3033-151212


    http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Mounting%20Kit&dp=false

    and this is simply the strut bearing #L3035-103835 at the top of page and "Front Strut-Mate bearing plate" by Monroe not KYB at the same parts house (bottom of page )# TS902922.

    http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Bearing&dp=true

    The Monroe set has some more parts but does not look like the identical parts as the "strut mounting kit". The mechanic said bearing and plate but was a little vague and had no printer, he just showed me the parts on a computer.
    Does the Monroe set look like the right one to you? My guess is,that it is the right one and what is your opinion please?
    He said it was 2 1/2 hours labor and I believe they have the correct equipment to do it. I am not going to attempt it myself.
    Thx again
    PGP
  • msnadiamsnadia Member Posts: 3
    My Mazda 626 2002 V6 does the same. It always seem to hesitate when accelerating, and then all of a sudden take off as I let off the gas (should work the other way around). Lately it rattles as it accelerates, as if it is out of breath. I had chnaged the plugs only 5000 miles ago.
    I have seen others have had this problem. Any solution?
  • msnadiamsnadia Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. Any thoughts?
  • carldombekcarldombek Member Posts: 1
    First, the car (a 97 with a 5-speed, 4-cyl, 200,000 miles) jerks a bit on acceleration. The shop adjusted the clutch but didn't replace it, though they thought it might need it. Input, please?

    Also, my driver's side seat belt won't retract properly and, as it's the one in use 100% of the time when the car's being driven, probably needs to be replaced. However, I can't see a way to remove the trim panels without brute force and don't want to risk breaking anything. Suggestions, please?

    Carl Dombek
  • kk2482kk2482 Member Posts: 33
    If you are referring to the keyhole - all you need is a little lead to loosen up the latches in the keyhole. *This can be done with any malfunctioning keyhole* Contact your local autoparts store - they'll know what you need ;)
Sign In or Register to comment.