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Help :confuse:
Will let everybody know if I see any difference after I instlal the new links.
Also, the creaking noise that seems to be coming from the left front strut upper mount, is not as pronounced. i may let that one go until I replace the struts, along with the upper mounts.
A week ago my 95' mazda 626 started having problems for the millionth time. At first, when I started the car, everything seemed fine and I was driving around town happily. Before I knew it, the car wouldn't rev up when I step on the gas. Or rather the rpm will go up and drops as I stepped on the gas. After that, the engine dies and won't start. I thought this was a problem with the fuel pump or something like that. So, I took it to a shop. They diagnosed it and told me that the distribution cap & rotor is old and needs to be replaced. Thinking that it would cost me less money (and it did), I replaced it myself, since it's a pretty easy job. Got the parts from napa and a few mins later my car was running again.
One week later (today), my car has problems starting up again. I thought maybe the cap was loose or wasn't placed properly, so I unscrewed it and screwed it back on. The car starts now, but it doesn't start very normally. The car engine rattles a little more when it starts. It starts now, but I don't want to risk driving around and having it die on me again. I've already payed alot for towing and diagnostics.
Considering my story, can anyone tell me what could be the possible source of this problem? I'd really appreciate if someone could give me some inputs.
Thanks
However, I can always make them work by turning the wiper switch on before I switch on the ignition. Everything is then fine, until the next time it throws a fit.
I'm not much of a mechanic, but have been known to throw up the hood and putz around. So, if anyone has a "Try this", I'd appreciate it.
To replace the links, you need a 14 mm open wrench, regular and deep 14 mm sockets, long ratchet or breaker bar, and a 5 mm Allen wrench. When you break the nuts loose on the old links, you will need to hold the socket bolt in place with the 5 mm Allen wrench while loosening the nut (otherwise the bolt will tun with the nut in the link socket hoint). And soak the nuts well with penetrating oil before you start. Those nuts were really tight!
BTW, those links are not cheap. With 25% off the list price from my local Mazda dealer, the two links cost me about $60 plus tax.
My 2000 4cyl mazda 626 intermittently fails to start. The problem is far more prevalent when the temperature outside is high, and when the car has been run recently [less than 30minutes]. However the problem does seem to occur on fewer occassions when the vehicle is cool [2+hours turned off]. When the vehicle fails to start it usually seems like on my first try I get a couple of firings from the spark plugs, and that's it [doesn't seem like enough to be flooding the engine]. Then repeated attempts lead to nothing more than the starter turning the engine with no ignition whatsoever. In most situations if I let the car cool for an hour or two after having problems starting it, it starts. Once the car is running, it runs fine almost always.
The starter turns fine in all situations, so I've ruled out battery or starter. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter but to no avail; the problem is exactly the same after doing so.
I have also brought the car to a couple of shops, including a mazda dealership. None found any issue while the vehicle was at their shop (no bad test codes, unable to reproduce the problem etc.) During this winter the car seemed to perform almost flawlessly [ambient temps ranging from -10 to 30 degrees fahrenheit], but now that it is 50 degrees fahrenheit out again, the problem has returned.
thank you!
damaged hub(s), damaged strut(s), damaged tie rod(s), damaged steering box, bent axle or damaged CV joint, possibly an engine mount broken.
Also make sure your idle speed is not abnormally low.
I have changed the distributor.. cap and leads.. plugs, and given the car two treatments of Injector Cleaner.
Has anyone had the same problem? I will clean the throttle body tomorrow and check the flow sensor... also I will try to check the TPS for any gaps in ohm resistance.
Hope you can help.
The Fuel Pressure Regulator keeps going bad. I've replaced it twice in two years. There is something else in the car causing the regulator to become faulty, and causing other problems with the vehicle.
Can anyone please tell me what components in the vehicle could possible do damage to the Fuel Pressure Regulator if they are faulty themself? Would the fuel pump relay have an effect? the fuel pump itself? the main computer brain? the fuel injectors?
I'm just trying to get an idea of all the possible causes of repeated fuel pressure regulator failure. thank you.
I bought a second hand 1997 Mazda 626 V4 automatic 3 weeks back with 93K miles on it. The engine was doing fine until last week when the engine started to heat up all of a sudden and stopped in the middle of the road. I got it towed to the nearest Mazda dealer. He took a week to diagonize and told me that the compressor is bad and would cost a lot to repair it. So he suggested on changing the engine itself for $2600($900 engine[85K miles] + $1700 labor). Before this problem there was a lot of vibration in the engine during drive (D) and would come down a bit when in N or P. I do not know the cause for that! Can this be one of the reasons for the engine to heat fast and stop abruptly? Is there any other reason for the engine to heat up so fast and stall? Should I get the engine replaced or take it to any other local mechanic? I am student and can't afford to spend a lot on the car right now. Can anyone suggest what needs to be done?
Any replies will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
:mad: &
Overheating needs to be carefully diagnosed, as there are many reasons this can occur.
If you can't get any straight, solid answers, get the car out of there.
The dealer told me that the engine has "bad compression" or "low compression". The head and the head gasket are OK. But since the compression is low, he will have to change the engine. Is it a good idea to get it done from a dealer or a private mechanic? The dealer is quoting US $2600.
Any idea's how much does the engine for a 1997 Mazda 626 I4 automatic (2.0L, I think) cost?
Thanks!
What you need is results of a cylinder leakdown test to determine the cause of the low compression. This can be pinpointed exactly. Either bad valves, warped head, bad rings????
Good news...The mechanic said, he has stopped the engine from overheating. He had to change the water hose for this. But he also told me that the compression is low/bad. He wants me to change the engine as soon as possible.
1) Can I drive my car with a low/bad compression? If so, for how long?
2) How will the low/bad compression effect the engine?
3) What must the ideal compression be for a 1997 626 Mazda I4 automatic?
4) Is the compression a serious problem?
He told me that the head and head gasket are OK.
Is there a site where I can read more about all this stuff?
All the info that I have posted so far is from the mechanic.
Thanks again!
Here's a good explanation:
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=16170
Check the engine compartment very carefully. It appears my son's 626 (I4) developed a vacuum leak of some sort due tot the collision. It got past the shop's inspectors, but we noticed a lot of vibration in the engine after we got the car back, so it is going in for a detailed analysis tomorrow (preliminary analysis is the vacuum leak).
The driver side headlight does not work (Passenger side is fine), The brights do not work either.Checked all fuses, they are ok.. Tried 2 new bulbs.. When I press forward on the stem (head light controls) to put on the Brights, the Blue Indicator light does not come on on the dash panel (The brights do come on on the Passenger side headlight though).
With the headlamps on, no brights, I checked the voltages and the 2 side connections to the headlamp bulb are both at 12V. The center Connection (TOP) has no voltage.
I think the issue has something to do with both sides being at 12V, possibly cause the Brights switch is left on?
Any suggestions are appreciated..
TIA...
Stan
trolls in the trunk. How many miles on your double
ought and how long had those trolls been active?
Any thoughts?
This can be done from the second small box on the left of the battery not from the large DLC box. This small second box is overlooked in many manuals and not everyone knows about its existence. The STi ( self test input) is by itself at theend of the connector. If you have problems pulling codes let me know. I will check back in a day or 2
PGP
You might try adjusting the idle speed?
The good news is that the dealer did not charge any diagnosis fee after working on the car all day. I thought that was very decent of them (Walser Mazda in Burnsville, MN).
But I bet that he flushes the transmission and replaces the fluid very frequently too.
pull the codes...this procedure will fit your last sentence
quite nicely...ITS FREE. Good luck
I found the manual frustrating because it would say remove part X to reach part Z. I want a manual that says remove part X by... to reach part X. If I a diagram similar to the engine compartment overview in the owner's manual, then I could say the bracket under A is only held by one screw/bolt and there is another hole on the bracket and and on A. I need a basic vocabulary. Our state does not have an emissions test. We have been driving in town with the windows wide open,rather than burn gas on air conditioning. We have a carport rather than a garage. We are down to the one car. Is it safe to drive it until I can get a service appointment?
Thanks