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I always change my own coolant. This V6 engine has no engine block drain plug. There is a plate with a gasket on the back of the engine block that could be removed to drain coolant, but it is very difficult to access and Mazda delaer strongly recommended not removing it. So I just drained the radiator (there is a 10 mm hex plastic drain plug on the right lower corner of the radiator. You must be extremely carful not overtighten it or you will strip the plastic threads).
Anyway, just draining the radiator on the V6 and disconnecting the lower radiator hose will drain slightly less than a gallon of coolant. So do not mix more than 1/2 gallon of Mazda coolant and 1/2 gallon of distilled water for the recommended 50/50 mix. And yes, do use DISTILLED water, irrespective of what somebody tells you.
After you refill the system through the coolant overflow bottle (no radiator cap on the V6 radiator), start the engine and run it with the overflow tank filler cap off. Otherwise the air will not be purged from the system and hot air pockets may be trapped in the cooling system, giving abnormally high momentary temperature readings. Add coolant as necessary to top off. Then reinstall the cap on the overflow bottle and take the car fro a spin. After you park it and the engine cools off, check the bottle level and add more coolant if necessary. You may have to repeat this one more time.
The only time I drained about 2 gallons of coolant from my engine was when I removed the water pump during the timing belt service. I replaced the water pump too.
The coolant overflow plastic bottles on these cars are of poor quality. I am on my third bottle at 150K miles, as all of them developed slow leaks along the bottom seam at some point. I imagine that the ones in the 4 cylinder version are not a whole lot better. Recommend replacing them every 60k miles.
My Manual shows nothing resembling what you have listed Maybe you can get it read at Auto Zone for free and come back with the new code. I will be checking in every few days.
Good Luck
PGP
Now, in the summer, I don't drive with head light on that much; but the air condition takes the place of the head light, and the symptom is more severe. When the air condition is on, and I brake to a stop, the car will shake. If I don't turn off the air condition quickly, the engine will stall. The air condition works fine other wise (when I don't have to brake to stop, eg on free way).
I believe these two things are related, but don't know where lies the fault. Please help. Thanks a lot
Everything, I push the brake to fast, try to pass a car...well everytime the car need power, the engine light goes on, I have to release the gaz, let him breaths and try again smoothly. I now it has no power but this is definitly a problem. The women that have it before tell me that she did bring it to a dealer and put it on the computer, but they found nothing.
It is may be fact that it has not enough air coming?
When I try to pass a car in a hill, it goes okay, after 5-10 sec, Engine light come on and rpm goes at 4 and stuck there. engine dies, like I have not the feet on the floor. It looks like that there is no overdrive(it works). If someone knows what I am saying, please respond
Let me know and I can tell you how to read codes to help you diagnose it if it is not the air ducting. It is very possible thatyou need a newair flow meter. I changed mine and the car is runnning great after 3 years searching for the problem and almost setting fire to car in frustration.
PGP
The engine in my car ceased running on the way home from work yesterday. The engine started losing power and acceleration while cruising at ca. 50 mph. The loss of power eventually led to a stall over about 5 seconds. The car would not start and had to be towed. Prior to this (an hour or so), the engine was running a little rough with a noticeable loss of power and tend to idle at about 500 RPM or less. The weather was rather hot over the last few days (high 90s). There was a peculiar odor in the car when I drove to work in the morning and I can't really describe it. I had a half tank of gas and the spark plugs along with the fuel filter were replaced about a month ago. Further attempts to start the car this morning were unsuccessful; the starter and perhaps, the engine turns but that's about it. My check-engine-light is on but it has been on for some time now. It would be intuitive for me to heed some attention to the warning but I am just using this car as a banger for a while longer. I've managed to check a few things before I hitched a ride to work today:
1. I checked the belts on the left hand side of the engine and they were not broken (I will check to see if they are worn later today). I've read that the timing belt may be a cause but I am not sure where to look. I saw a total of two or three belts when I was looking this morning.
2. Fuel filter doesn't seem to be leaking; I was wondering if I had installed the filter wrong last month.
3. Opened the oil cap on the top of the engine and had someone try to start the car. I couldn't see anything moving and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to except for a small pin of some sort rise up and down. I didn't look too closely though.
4. Oil and coolant levels were at specification.
There have been a couple of suggestions here and there about similar problems but not very specific. I was wondering if anyone had any different suggestions or for that matter, just plain reiterate a few previous suggestions. From what I've gathered already, it could be a problem with:
1. fuel lines
2. fuel pump
3. air duct manifold
4. distributor cap and/or rotor
5. fuel pressure regulator
6. fuel pump relay
7. alternator
8. spark plug cables
9. mass airflow meter
10. timing belt
11. heck, I might as well list parts for the entire car.
I'm not too savvy with the more complicated (relative I guess) aspects of a car engine but am mechanically able. Any help would be much appreciated.
Remember codes do not mean a part , or sensor is defective , it just leads to a place to look for the problem . Your converters could be running inefficiently because of 2 rich a mixture and that could be Mass AIr Flow meter, or O2 sensors. Is that the only code they get or is it the one they are telling you about . Have you watched while they drew it?
You also mention that it comes on some times and most of the times now. Is it more prevalent when hot. I would have them clear all the codes (there are hard codes and memory codes)and redraw codes the first time it comes on.
If you have recreated the same driving action you may get a lead about which direction to start first.
Investigate, learn and do not beleive the first or second mechanic especially when they do not agree entirely.
It took me 3 years here in Greece and 4 mazda dealers till I found out the problem.( I FOUND IT NOT THEM) with help from these forums and soem research.
Try to be more specific under what condtitions the first inkling of the light going on after all codes are cleared and come back and tell us
PGP
THAT WILL NOT BE THE ANSWER TO YOUR OVERALL PROBLEM BUT IT CAN BE THE REASON YOU ARE FEELING THAT SHAKE. I REPLACED MOUNTS AND NO LONGER FEEL THE SHAKE WHEN AIR CONDITIOING COMPRESSOR KICKS IN. IT IS STILL THERE BUT MINIMIZED AS IT SHOULD BE.
IF MOUNTS ARE BAD THATS A START. THEN YO HAVE TO DRAW CODES TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING EXTRAORDINARY VOLTAGE DROPS THAT CAUSE THE BAD ENGINE FIRING .DID AUTO ZONE DRAW ANY CODES ?? DO EITHER FIRST ACCORDING TO BUDGET
GOOD LUCK
PGP
PGP
I have 99 Mazda 626 LX 4 Cylinder and currently it has 62000miles. So far I am only doing Oil Changes on regular basis, but I wanted to find out, what kind of maintainence I must do on my car now, so that it keeps on running in good health. How much does that kind of maintainence on the average cost?
Thanks
Syed
I have a 626 LX - 1999 Model - 4 Cylinder with 62000 miles. Do I need to change the timing belt? The car so far is running OK. What else should I replace which is critical.
Syed
Can anyone confirm that this is a range sensor code. I have ordered the part and it will be coming to Greece with my cousins son tomorrow. I hope this solve the problem but any confirmation of code or advice would be appreciated
TIA
PGP
I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY HERE IN GREECE.
THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AFTER ABOUT 1 1/2 HOURS OF DRIVING AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THE 133 THAT I HAD BEFORE CLEARING IT AND STARTING TRIP.
THX
PGP
Anyway, I will briefly describe how to do this without breaking things (following the shop manual sequence).
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal
2. Get a flat bladed screwdriver, wrapped in a rag, insert it into the front edge of the side dashboard panel (driver's side) and gently pry the clips out. The panel has hinge-like plastic clips in the back, so be careful not to break those. Once the front edge of the panel is pried loose, pull the panel out. You will see two screws under the panel, holding the lower dash panel in place.
3. Remove the two lower panel screws and also one on the right hand lower edge of the lower panel. Then pry the panel out gently and it will drop about an inch, revealing additional screws holding the black upper panel in place(no need to fully remove the lower panel).
4. You will need a short torx bit screwdriver to get to some screws. Also, a flex shaft torx bit screwdriver will work (this is what I used). To remove the upper black cover panel , you also need to disconnect the oscillating vent motor connector, hazard switch and rear defroster connectors, and the power mirror switch connector, which was so stubborn on my car, that I left it connected and just moved the panel out of the way suspended from the power mirror switch harness.
Be careful not to break the wiring harness connectors. The have a plastic barb that must be pushed in to release the connectors. Do not force them apart, and do not use pliers to pull them apart.
5. Remove the instrument panel black cover. It is attached with 4 same size torx screws.
6. Unplug the three connectors on the back side of the printed circuit instrument cluster and mark with tape for correct reinstallation. Now you can remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle and get to the bulbs.
7. The bulbs that provide the illumination for the speedometer, tach, and the gauges are green bulbs with grey sockets. There are three of them. Also, there is one small green bulb. There are four types of bulbs used in the cluster. Each warning light has a small individual clear bulb. There is probably at least twenty bulbs total in that instrument cluster. The bulbs are removed and replaced by gently twisting them and pulling straight out.
I have 63000 miles on my Mazda 626 LX, 1999 Model 2.5 liter 4 cylinders. I have not yet replaced the timing belt on my car and I was informed by the service people that this is very critical to be replaced. Mazda dealearship here costs around Cd$845.00 (canadian). This is the cost of 60,000 miles service on the car.
Now I wanted to find out, if I should take this car to mazda dealership or any mechanic should be able to replace the timing belt. The local mechanic has given me a cost of almost half the amount.
Will greatly appreciate any insight.
Thank you..........
Here is a update of my situation posted August 4th or so:
Tranny Problems My 94 626 lxa 4 cylinder with the FORD CD4E tranny went a little nuts today . After a lot of driving on a very hot day it would : #1 not go into reverse at all #2 neutral produced a forward gear with clunky starts, and # 3 drive would not engage at all #4 forward could be accomplished by using S or L gear #5 after cooling down reverse came back although it was very clunky . Although car did not register overheated I needed to add over 1 liter of coolant to radiator.
I am getting a 133 code after two 111 (codes which signify no faults). I can find nothing out about 133 codes on a OBD 1 Mazda in my book.
Tranny will not go forward in D but will go in S or L and eventually when getting up to moderate speed 40-50 MPH or so, I can put selector in drive. It will drive well in 3rd and 4th gear (I DROVE 140 MILES AT HIGH SPEEDS 80 MPH> without problems) .
The hold light came on after about one hour of driving. Also Reverse does not work now,it clunks and does not move at all .Also S and L engagement of tranny causes a loud clunk.
Anyone know how to check solenoids as suggested here ?
Thx Peter
What now?
first problem i had was my steering it was leaking steering fluid...i thought it was a hose problem or something then it leaked to my tires which was a bigger problem...i also hear clickering sounds evertime i go over bumps..
solution-- it was a rack a pinion steering cost $900 canadian to get fix at mechanic---product worth $150
second problem
my rpm revs really high and my temperature is at red line and my steering was hard to control--the problem was my water pump was broken and my steering belt was gone..Mechanic fee $600
third problem
everytime i drove my car i would hear a dragging noise at the back of my car...this started happening after i change my break pads 1 week earlier.. --problem-- it was my tires...the were not even so i got 4 new tires and a tire and a tire rotation which is important, it makes sure my car is level..cost $600 new tires
fourth problem
my car started leaking smoke out of my exhaust, it was grey smoke not black...it got fixed when i took it to the mechanic..- problem was, it was leaking oil in my engine pumps.. which cause grey smokes cuz it hadnt leak that bad yet cost to fix $500
1 month later it started leaking smoke again so this time i solved it a different way...took out my cat coverter and got straight pipes and a new racing muffler...cost $400 1 yr later still hasnt smoke a bit of grey smokes...lasted longer then cleaning my engine
fifth problem
i bought a new intake for my car to make it sound better and make it gain more horse power....i attached everything correct, 1 week later my car is now starting to shake when my intake is hot, when its cold it runs fast and smooth but when its hot it kinda chokes or dont get enough sucking or something? havent gone to the mechanic yet on this one..kinda wanna fix it on my own just in case it was a small problem! If anyone had this happen to them please help.. thx u
btw.. i flush my oil and my tranny and i gain all my horse power back ..it was like running like it was new..
First of all, you cannot replace just the bearing or the pulley with the bearing. You have to buy the whole A/C clutch assembly(even if the clutch was not damaged), which retails for about $ 250. (A new A/C compressor with the clutch is $480 for the V6 model). I bought the clutch and proceeded to remove the old clutch with the proper tools which I rented from Autozone. When I pulled of the pulley, I discovered that the damaged bearing has sheared off from the pulley and remained stuck on the compressor shaft. There is no way to pull it off, so I have to buy a new A/C compressor. And this means replacing the receiver/dryer too. And discharging/ recharging the system. So a $ 15 bearing failure has now turned into a $800+ dollar expense.