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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    p100 is correct. If your clutch failed the symptom would not be the pedal going quickly to the floor and staying there. The pedal itself would feel quite normal even with a burned out clutch. So it's a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue, we suspect.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Left front tire on my 2000 626 ES I4, 97k miles, with 16" factory alloys is losing air, down nearly 14 pounds in one week, just sitting on a driveway. Had a tire shop check it a couple of weeks ago, and they said it looked ok and they couldn't see any leak. It has been patched before. If I have to buy a new tire (actually at least two), I will, but I don't want to do that then find out the problem is with the alloy wheel. I've heard (and the tire dealer mentioned) that sometimes alloy wheels can develop leaks. Anyone hear of that happening with the 626's wheels? (Cosmetically they are in excellent shape.) And if the wheel is leaking, is there any way to repair it?

    My son drives this car 210 miles each way to college, so I need to do something before he goes back in August--I don't want it blowing on the freeway.
  • kitchen33kitchen33 Member Posts: 1
    i want to put the 2.5 liter v6 motor in my car because im tired of the 4 cylinder, i was wanting to know if the v6 would mount straignt on to the transmission that is in the car already
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Have them take the tire off the rim and carefully inspect on the inside. How did they patch the tire last time? With a plug or patch or patch/plug combo? I have seen patches applied to the inside of the tire curl up and start leaking shortly after being applied because of poor surface preparation, and if they were too close to the sidewall. It is also possible that you can have a piece of wire of thin nail in the thread and you cannot see it.

    I seriously doubt your rim is leaking, unless it is severely rusted in the bead area or dented.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    This will not work. The transaxles are different, especially the automatic version, wiring harness is different, engine management computer is probably different, exhaust is different, V6 cars have four wheel disc brakes, bigger diameter axle shafts, bigger radiators, etc.

    This project is not worth even attempting, unless you had a complete V6 donor car that you could use the parts from. Older V6 Mazda 626s are cheap to buy. Sell yours and find a decent V6.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Thanks very much for the reply. The tire shop did inspect the rim, said it looked OK. They said the patch looked OK too, but it might be hard to spot a slow leak. They did not patch the tire before, another shop did (it was some kid, on a Sunday, so not sure what kind of quality job they did). Not sure what kind of patch it is.

    The wheel doesn't seem to be rusted or dented, and the tire shop didn't see anything. What I'll probably do is take it back there and have them inspect the wheel again, and if it looks good go ahead and buy 2 new tires for the front.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Another possibility is that somebody damaged the tire bead when they removed and reinstalled the tire last time. If they did not use soapy water to lube the tire bead, they could have made a tear in the bead, which will then cause a slow leak
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    My daughter has a 99 626 ES V6 that is having an unusual idle issue. When the A/C is on and car is either in park or stopped, the idle will surge as high as 1800 rpm. While driving it is fine, only when parked or sitting at a traffic light. Anyone else have an issue like this? Could it be the IAC Valve (I hope not)? This problem does not happen with a/c off. Car has 125k and has been very well maintained by us. As an example, when she gets in and starts the car up each day, as soon as she turns on the a/c it immediately surges.
  • shanes56164shanes56164 Member Posts: 2
    I'm gonna beg for some new Ideas here. We're working on getting this car running after the owner installed a salvage yard motor himself, and after repairing all other possible causes, we're starting to conclude that the final problem remains in the fuel rail. we belive that either the regulator is bad, or all the injectors are faulty. Here's a rundown of the situation:

    Replaced:
    fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, wires, converter

    checked and found correct:
    timing belt and timing marks, fuel pressure, Injector pulse, injector resistance reading, spark from coil pack.

    symptoms:

    standing fuel in all cylinders after attempt to start, no fuel pressure or flow on return line after the regulator, full 80 psi to all injectors, when running, runs at 300-500 rpm, but only on 2 cyl.

    any help will be greatfully accepted!!!!!
  • roman9vs10roman9vs10 Member Posts: 2
    Have you checked the effects of disconneting the Air flow sensor on top of the air filter housing? If the engine runs better or the same, this may be your problem.
  • kellij2kellij2 Member Posts: 7
    ok so i have the same car you do but it is a 99. I just replaced the thermostat about 3 months ago because my car started to run hot when i would be stopped at a light or in traffic, but as soon as i would start to drive it would go back to half or under half near the cool side. It is doing it again so now I am wondering if it is a sensor. I had a coolant flush and fill when I replaced the thermostat, it has 131k on it. I don't know what to do with it, but this is a problem I have been having as well. I am not leaking anything and the fans are working.
  • kellij2kellij2 Member Posts: 7
    I just have had to recently start fixing things in it, overall has been a great car up until the past yr. My EGR valve was stuck open so I bought a new part and had it replaced from my mechanic a little over a year ago. The engine light was on not long after the replacement giving me the same code 400. It was a flow problem. How do I fix this? Also, I just had my thermostat replaced and a flush and fill because my car started to run hot while I was stopped. It just started doing it again, although it isnt everytime I am driving it is so random. Once I start driving again the gage stays at half or towards the cool side. Could this be an oxygen sensor or something with the AC?
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Pulled connector for air flow sensor. Car ran the same, definitely no better. I have also noticed that if I give it gas will idling, instead of the idle settling back down to its higher than normal level, it surges back down, varying between 1000 and 2000 rpm until it settles in the 1000-1200 range. And, again, if I turn the a/c off, it seems to idle as it should, in the 750 range. Check Engine Light is not on at any time. Very strange issue. Any other suggestions are appreciated?? Also, I doubt it is related at all, but I also noticed that the temp guage has a slight flutter to it. It does not hold dead on the indicated temp., but looks like it has a nervous condition. Not flucuating, just not holding steady loke all of my other cars do.
  • gracefullygracefully Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mazda LX 4D Sedan,4-Cyl, 2.0 Liter, automatic transmission. It has 43,300 miles. The hood vibrates like crazy and my car sounds like an airplane. Does the drive or timing belt(s) need to be replaced? I haven't had much maintenance done on the car besides changing the oil.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Check Engine Light actually came on last night while daughter was driving, and again today. Took it to friendly auto parts place and had code read. It read Code 1131. They printed out a list of potential issues, anything from o2 sensors (night likely), to Mass Airflow Sensor (also not very likely), to a fuel injector issue. Whatever it is, it deals with bank 1. Anyone else have this code come up and figure out how to resolve?
  • zoomnomorezoomnomore Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1997 mazda 626 the ideling at a stopped position doesn't bother me enough to give up on the car if anyone might know the first place to start I would be deeply thankful

    Also i have read that the 626's have power problems (I have had the experience the windows don't do good if you try to use them all at once and the car doesn't even turn over when the lights are on but that has only happened twice) i'm thinking about putting a new stereo system in it and i didn't know if that was a bad idea reading about the problems people are having
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    This is an unusual noise. It is coming from the front, passenger side, and is only heard when the a/c is on. Sounds almost like a "slapping" type of sound. I suspect belt or pulley related maybe?? There is no other belt type of sound though, such as a screech. Very strange. And, I do not know if related, but when the a/c is on, as the compressor cycles on, the headlights/dash lights will briefly dim. Any ideas on this unusual sound?
  • shanes56164shanes56164 Member Posts: 2
    I belive that the compressor is to blame. the sound you describe along with the time it is apparent are a dead give away, but this is only verifiable by using a mechanic stethescope to probe around the compressor and listen for when the noise is most noticable. and don't just touch the probe to the compressor body and be satisfied, touch it to the front cover of the motor, to the alternator, to the power steering, and so on. By doing this, you'll find the culprit in a hurry. as for the guages and lights dimming, I belive the alternator is being dragged down by whatever is causing the slapping noise. I'd almost bet that when you test spots with the stethescope, you'll find the noise at the compressor, which indicates it's very low on oil, or a mechanical failure. thus, causing the engine to work harder just to turn the AC compressor. a stethescope is about $20 at any parts store.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd move on this noise right away. If the AC compressor seizes, you have contaminated your entire AC system and then you have a big mess and a BIG expense.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Thanks for responses. After listening closer, the noise seems to be an upper engine noise. Decided to check oil level. Was down about 1/2 quart. Topped off oil, and no more noise at any time now, with or without a/c on, at idle or full throttle. Plus, a/c has never given any indication of an issue with it, still blows nice and cold as it should. I will tell my daughter to listen closely for any sounds from the engine. I probably should add that the car had been sitting for about 5 days without being started when I started it up and heard this "noise".

    Also, I had posted an earlier thread about an idle surge issue. After running some Lucas in the last tank of gas and pulling the negative battery cable to reset computer, no more idle surge.

    Car needs to "survive" one more year of college, and then it is not my problem :) Car has 124k on it now.
  • ghostfaceghostface Member Posts: 1
    my power steering been makin horrid noises lately cuz the fluids been leakin i guess now i was drivin and hit a bump then all of a sudden my power steering stopped workin while drivin i could turn but it felt like my car was off and it began to try to over heat. can any1 help me what should i do and will it be expensive
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    Well, if your power steering is leaking, and it's not a small leak that you can just keep filling up before it runs out. Then, I would suggest that you do not drive it at all. The leak came from a bump you stated, maybe a power steering hose got busted, or loose. It could also be the rack and pinion unit got damaged from a big bump too. If you have to keep useing the car, and you can't afford to fix it, then you might be able to remove the power steering belt(only if it's a seperate belt and doesn't power other important parts to) so that the pump won't be running dry, but I'm not sure if that's safe or not, so you might want to get advice from someone else about that.
  • pdemello3pdemello3 Member Posts: 1
    Just started having problems . Put the car in Drive from a standing stop when I hit the gas, the engine revs but is very slow to take off,almost like its in neutral. It does take off, a bit sluggish . At higher speeds, it seems fine. Can anyone help. :mad:
  • justplayinjustplayin Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 626 and this just started on my car. This what I have been told to check, first is to change out the spark plugs. then also change/flush tramsmission fluid and last to make sire that your belt is tightly secured and not loose. The last thing to check is the pully's. Hope this helps
  • cbus722cbus722 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Mazda 626 LX 2.0. Can't get it to pass the emission test. Code PO421 comes up and don't know what it means? Had Code PO133 on the test , but it's not coming up anymore after changing both o2 sensors,spark plugs,new spark plugs wiring. Can you tell me what Code PO421 is?
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    The hood rests on rubber pads that can be adjusted by turning them. If the pads are not making contact with the hood, it will vibrate. The stick (for lack of a better term) that holds up the hood gets loose with age. You can wrap duck tape around the area that rests on the frame.

    Good luck.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    I have a 1990 Mazda 626 (still). Whenever I turn on the A/C or turn the steering wheel,

    1. the "charge" light and "rear" light come on.
    2. Power steering is lost.

    After I cleaned the battery terminal, this problem only exist when I turn the steering wheel.

    I get 12V when the engine is off and 13.3V when the engine is on. I've taken the battery and alternator out of the car and had them tested at AutoZone. They are both good.

    Thanks in advance.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    direct a brief spray of carb cleaner around different locations where vacuum hoses attach, around the throttle body and around the manifold. If the is a leak, the engine will surge.

    Good luck.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    Reset your computer: pull off the negative battery cable. Press the brakes for ~5 seconds.
  • parnell1234parnell1234 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 626 Mazda and it runs fine been driving it a year and the other day it started jerking as i was on the freeway seems like it was the transmission the overdrive light keep coming on even though it was off.i can get up to 90 and it will run good and all of a sudden it will start again and i lose RPMs and it jerks could someone please help me.
  • parnell1234parnell1234 Member Posts: 3
    My Mazda started jerking the other day felt like the transmission the over drive light came on allthough i keep it off please help me.
  • kfpflakfpfla Member Posts: 5
    Hello Parell1234,

    One quick question: Does the O/D light "Flash" when on extended highway trips?

    If it does, you might have a "known" Mazda Service Issue.

    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 4 Cyl Automatic and for some reason if I am Driving at 70 mph and let off the gas pedal my O/D Light Flashes and continues to do so until I stop and turn off the car, let it cool for about 10 minutes and then restart it again.

    However while I am driving with the O/D light flashing (at lower speeds) I experience very hard switching in gears. After a full stop, when I start up again the transmission will shift into second with a bang then into third with a milder thump.

    However this does not happen every time I drive 70 mph (Usually after an hour of highway driving.)

    I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.

    When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).

    It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)

    A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."

    It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.

    Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).

    Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).

    Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.

    You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)

    I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.
  • atttentionatttention Member Posts: 1
    hello
    sorry for my English as I live in Russia and badly I speak english
    I own the MAZDA 626 GF 2000year. 2,5 V6 car a super on mechanical transmission that at you a rarity has arisen a problem :-)))
    I will be short. It is necessary for me buy a tank broad KLG4-15-350C
    who every body to help, I have found already there where to conveniently my friend to buy
    TOMS RIVER MAZDA
    HIGHWAY 37 EAST TOMS RIVER, NJ 08754
    Phone: whether 732-341-2900

    it is necessary to learn there is there this detail and how many costs?
    In advance all thanks
  • mazadadramamazadadrama Member Posts: 1
    HELLO THERE I HAVE 2000 MAZDA 626 2.5 AND I JUST REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, HARMONIC BALANCER, TIMING BELT, TIMING BELT PULLIES, ALL THE DRIVING BELTS, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES AND NOW WHEN I GO OVER 65 MPH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS AND THE CODES SAYS MISFIRE CYLINDER ONE I BELIEVE DONT KNOW TO MUCH ABOUT CARS BUT I REALLY NEED SOME IDEAS IF ANY ONE HAS HAD PROBLEM KINDA OF THE SORT PLEASE LET ME KNOW
  • kellij2kellij2 Member Posts: 7
    what a coincidence my car just started running rought and the engine light was flashing on and off when it was switching gears. Meaning when I hit 40 and then 50-60. Had my oil changed to day at monroe and the mechanic just driving it said it was misfiring and it was because of my wire kit. I just had a tune up not even a year ago and when he showed me the middle plug that is on the thing the oil goes into, it was white and not catching the sparks from the plug. So I would have your wire kit and plugs checked if they are both fine I was told it can be injector or your coil. I have a 99 mazda 626 lx. I am sure it will probably be your wire kit especially if the are the duralast brand purchased from auto zone. Hope this helps
  • cmazda1994cmazda1994 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,



    I am at the end of my rope with this problem. Let me start by letting you know what I did do to try to fix my problem.

    I have changed both fans, cleaned and flushed the radiator, bought a new radiator, both of the radiator caps have been changed, I changed the thermostat, change every possible hose that I could find on the car, change the water pump, there are no leaks and if I accelerate in the car the gauge goes to the cool side. After the car was inspected the engine light came on and the car ran rough. I changed the sparks plugs and that took care of some of the problem but not all, the car still runs hot, the gauge goes to the middle toward the hot side. I have tried everything that I know to do and the hot problem is still there. All of the parts are new, so could it be something internal. What could I be missing? I have also changed the Universal Catylic converter. Please advise me on what the problem could be. Thank you for your help in advance.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! :) Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!

    The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
    See you there!
  • caseysdubs1caseysdubs1 Member Posts: 11
    Hey , I'm needing to check the thermostat on my 2006 V6 but don't know where to look. I need to know how to get to it and remove it. Can anyone tell me and hopefully post a pic or link? I'm new to working on cars so please be direct.

    The problem I am having is that the heat blows cold when at idle and the temp gage is all over the place. Heat works fine when accelerating but at a stand still, nada.
    Added coolant but problem persists.

    P.S. Should there be more than just a few ounces of coolant in the overflow? Also, when I remove the cap, there is none showing at all. Should I be able to see some? Maybe I did not add enough.
  • hawkohawko Member Posts: 1
    I have a1994 626 hatch, i bought it 13 months ago, it stalls when turning right, when the fuel is low, the more i accelerate ,the quicker it stalls, i've asked several mechanics & none seem to know what is wrong, up until recently, so long as i kept fuel level above a quarter it was ok, but now it's doing it even with plenty of fuel, any advice would be appreciated
    ty Dave
  • kellij2kellij2 Member Posts: 7
    OK so I have the same car you do but it is a 99. I had the same problem and didn't see that i was leaking anything, but check the overflow tank, meaning the plastic containter you pour your antifreeze in. I had a slight crack underneath it that I couldn't see my mechanic did. I replaced that and my car doesn't run hot anymore. When I did this, my problem went away. hope this works.
  • okieopieokieopie Member Posts: 2
    Just got off the phone with a mechanic who claims that the motor in my 2001 Mazda 626 is "fried". The car has 115,000 miles on it. I want to check with you all to see if you think he's right.

    Here's the situation:

    Saturday, I drove my car on a 100 mile trip with absolutely no problems. Pulled it into the parking lot and went to bed. Early Sunday morning I started the car and immediately the Check Engine light flashed twice. There was little power in the engine and a "rattling" sound from under the hood (right side). I had to get to where I was going so I went ahead and babied the car along (very little power) until it finally wouldn't go any further. I know that it was an idiotic thing to do and I'm probably paying the price. Since I am out of town I had it towed to the nearest garage and they have been working on it since Monday.

    Monday, the mechanic told me the plugs were fouled and said that the car needed a tune-up. Said that he was going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires. I told him that I didn't think that was the problem, but he insisted that he needed to do it to get it to run.

    Tuesday, I checked with them and they said that the new plugs fouled immediately when trying to run the car. Said that he was going to try to do a wet and dry test (I think he means a compression test).

    Wednesday (today), he said that air was being sucked in through the exhaust and that the engine was "fried". Said that the oil was 2.5 quarts low when it was towed in (though when I checked it, it showed full). They're supposed to get me a price for replacing the engine.

    If the engine truly is blown, so be it... But I can't figure out why the car would run absolutely fine on Saturday and then have a catastrophic failure on Sunday. If anyone would like to offer their opinions or their sympathy on the loss of my beloved 626, I would be grateful!

    Thanks! :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's hard to say without an autopsy and unless the mechanic has those X-ray vision glasses you used to be able to order from comic books, he really doesn't know the full answer either. I realize you are only able to pass on info second hand but it doesn't quite add up, as you say. The plugs were fouled with what? oil? gas? That would be good to know.

    Air sucking from the exhaust? How did he determine that?!!

    I think I'd do a "cylinder leakdown test" before tearing into this engine, unless the mechanic can take a part and stick it under your nose for you to see some horrendous damage.

    Possibilities? cracked head? Loss of oil during the night, resulting in engine damage while being run? Leaking injector filled crankcase with gasoline, washing cylinders of oil causing damage?

    How is the whole engine "fried"? Top and bottom? All the parts are bad? Has he pulled the cylinder head off?

    Way too little information here.
  • okieopieokieopie Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions. To answer a couple of your questions...

    There was no loss of oil in the parking lot during the night. The car showed symptoms immediately upon starting (the flashing check engine light, loss of power).

    I'll check with him what he means when he says the plugs were "fouled" -- He showed me one of the plugs and it did look black and burned. From what he was saying to me, it seemed that he was meaning that it was fouled with gas that wasn't burning off.

    As far as the other questions, I'll ask him about those magical glasses :)

    Thanks for your help...
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    I can help you some. My daughter has a '99 V6 that I just had the thermostat replaced in. It is located below the air intake box (where the air filter is). I understand they had to remove the box, remove the coil pack to get to it because it is on a lower hose.

    I would also suggest you check the coolant reservoir bottle closely. Hers developed a leak (very common, it is plastic). I had to go to Mazda and buy a replacement. Very easy to replace though. The reservoir tank should be full to the "max" line.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Apparently the idle issue was something electronic, though I do not know what. I had to pull the battery cable for something else, and after doing this, the idle is now perfect and has been for the past 3 months. So, I have no clue what the issue was, but it is now resolved.
  • jaganrvcejaganrvce Member Posts: 1
    My car Mazda 1997 626 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 73000 miles was working great until all hell broke lose. Suddenly the car started shaking noticeably with a strong rubber burning smell. The car would still drive but the engine would make strange noise but would not turn off. The shaking reduces visibly if put in neutral gear. The heating does not show any heating etc. Also, the engine light has started to blink. What could be the problem here? Is it a transmission problem?
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    Your description of the symptoms is hard to comprehend, A rubber burning smell might be a tire rubbing on something, or a belt or hose slipping or melting. Shaking stopping when put in neutral might be a lot of different things rangeing from an engine not running right, to a bad motor or transmission mount, to a transmission problem or axle problem, maybe a bad ball joint also. You could go to an Autozone or Advanceautoparts store, and they will loan you for free, a code scanner that will plug into your dashboard, and give you a readout from the car's computer as to why the check engine light is on.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    This is totally a guess on my part, but the no heat, burning rubber smell, and rough running sounds like it could be a water pump seizing. My daughter's boyfriend has an Xterra and it had very similar symptoms when the water pump was going out a couple of weeks ago.

    Also, have you changed the timing belt yet? I know the V6 is good for 105k, not sure about the 4 cylinder belt, but it may only be 60k.
  • eve1969eve1969 Member Posts: 1
    I Just bought a 1997 Mazda 626 and I'm having some problems with the car. at first it started to stall on me. and it seamed it was loosing power and the gears would not shift. I took it to the mechanic and he did the Diagnostic and found a bunch of codes which he said they were all related to the same part. so he replaced the EGR valve cylinoid and Solenoid Valve. I thought that was going to fix my problem but no It was still doing the same thing. I took it back and they said they need to replace the Air Inlet Boot and do the Transmission Fluid. But that it still needed the Idle control Valve. It's running a little better but is not 100 percent. I did another Diagnostic and it came up with 6 codes need help. the codes are P0171- P0300-P1131-P1130-P1506 and P1744. Please help any suggestions.
  • plumberdanplumberdan Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1998 mazda 626 with a v6 non turbo with the code p0400 any idea how to make it go away.. need to smog car asap
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