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Comments
My son drives this car 210 miles each way to college, so I need to do something before he goes back in August--I don't want it blowing on the freeway.
I seriously doubt your rim is leaking, unless it is severely rusted in the bead area or dented.
This project is not worth even attempting, unless you had a complete V6 donor car that you could use the parts from. Older V6 Mazda 626s are cheap to buy. Sell yours and find a decent V6.
The wheel doesn't seem to be rusted or dented, and the tire shop didn't see anything. What I'll probably do is take it back there and have them inspect the wheel again, and if it looks good go ahead and buy 2 new tires for the front.
Replaced:
fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, wires, converter
checked and found correct:
timing belt and timing marks, fuel pressure, Injector pulse, injector resistance reading, spark from coil pack.
symptoms:
standing fuel in all cylinders after attempt to start, no fuel pressure or flow on return line after the regulator, full 80 psi to all injectors, when running, runs at 300-500 rpm, but only on 2 cyl.
any help will be greatfully accepted!!!!!
Also i have read that the 626's have power problems (I have had the experience the windows don't do good if you try to use them all at once and the car doesn't even turn over when the lights are on but that has only happened twice) i'm thinking about putting a new stereo system in it and i didn't know if that was a bad idea reading about the problems people are having
Also, I had posted an earlier thread about an idle surge issue. After running some Lucas in the last tank of gas and pulling the negative battery cable to reset computer, no more idle surge.
Car needs to "survive" one more year of college, and then it is not my problem Car has 124k on it now.
Good luck.
1. the "charge" light and "rear" light come on.
2. Power steering is lost.
After I cleaned the battery terminal, this problem only exist when I turn the steering wheel.
I get 12V when the engine is off and 13.3V when the engine is on. I've taken the battery and alternator out of the car and had them tested at AutoZone. They are both good.
Thanks in advance.
Good luck.
One quick question: Does the O/D light "Flash" when on extended highway trips?
If it does, you might have a "known" Mazda Service Issue.
I have a 1998 Mazda 626 4 Cyl Automatic and for some reason if I am Driving at 70 mph and let off the gas pedal my O/D Light Flashes and continues to do so until I stop and turn off the car, let it cool for about 10 minutes and then restart it again.
However while I am driving with the O/D light flashing (at lower speeds) I experience very hard switching in gears. After a full stop, when I start up again the transmission will shift into second with a bang then into third with a milder thump.
However this does not happen every time I drive 70 mph (Usually after an hour of highway driving.)
I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.
When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).
It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)
A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."
It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.
Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).
Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).
Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.
You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)
I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.
sorry for my English as I live in Russia and badly I speak english
I own the MAZDA 626 GF 2000year. 2,5 V6 car a super on mechanical transmission that at you a rarity has arisen a problem :-)))
I will be short. It is necessary for me buy a tank broad KLG4-15-350C
who every body to help, I have found already there where to conveniently my friend to buy
TOMS RIVER MAZDA
HIGHWAY 37 EAST TOMS RIVER, NJ 08754
Phone: whether 732-341-2900
it is necessary to learn there is there this detail and how many costs?
In advance all thanks
I am at the end of my rope with this problem. Let me start by letting you know what I did do to try to fix my problem.
I have changed both fans, cleaned and flushed the radiator, bought a new radiator, both of the radiator caps have been changed, I changed the thermostat, change every possible hose that I could find on the car, change the water pump, there are no leaks and if I accelerate in the car the gauge goes to the cool side. After the car was inspected the engine light came on and the car ran rough. I changed the sparks plugs and that took care of some of the problem but not all, the car still runs hot, the gauge goes to the middle toward the hot side. I have tried everything that I know to do and the hot problem is still there. All of the parts are new, so could it be something internal. What could I be missing? I have also changed the Universal Catylic converter. Please advise me on what the problem could be. Thank you for your help in advance.
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The problem I am having is that the heat blows cold when at idle and the temp gage is all over the place. Heat works fine when accelerating but at a stand still, nada.
Added coolant but problem persists.
P.S. Should there be more than just a few ounces of coolant in the overflow? Also, when I remove the cap, there is none showing at all. Should I be able to see some? Maybe I did not add enough.
ty Dave
Here's the situation:
Saturday, I drove my car on a 100 mile trip with absolutely no problems. Pulled it into the parking lot and went to bed. Early Sunday morning I started the car and immediately the Check Engine light flashed twice. There was little power in the engine and a "rattling" sound from under the hood (right side). I had to get to where I was going so I went ahead and babied the car along (very little power) until it finally wouldn't go any further. I know that it was an idiotic thing to do and I'm probably paying the price. Since I am out of town I had it towed to the nearest garage and they have been working on it since Monday.
Monday, the mechanic told me the plugs were fouled and said that the car needed a tune-up. Said that he was going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires. I told him that I didn't think that was the problem, but he insisted that he needed to do it to get it to run.
Tuesday, I checked with them and they said that the new plugs fouled immediately when trying to run the car. Said that he was going to try to do a wet and dry test (I think he means a compression test).
Wednesday (today), he said that air was being sucked in through the exhaust and that the engine was "fried". Said that the oil was 2.5 quarts low when it was towed in (though when I checked it, it showed full). They're supposed to get me a price for replacing the engine.
If the engine truly is blown, so be it... But I can't figure out why the car would run absolutely fine on Saturday and then have a catastrophic failure on Sunday. If anyone would like to offer their opinions or their sympathy on the loss of my beloved 626, I would be grateful!
Thanks! :sick:
Air sucking from the exhaust? How did he determine that?!!
I think I'd do a "cylinder leakdown test" before tearing into this engine, unless the mechanic can take a part and stick it under your nose for you to see some horrendous damage.
Possibilities? cracked head? Loss of oil during the night, resulting in engine damage while being run? Leaking injector filled crankcase with gasoline, washing cylinders of oil causing damage?
How is the whole engine "fried"? Top and bottom? All the parts are bad? Has he pulled the cylinder head off?
Way too little information here.
There was no loss of oil in the parking lot during the night. The car showed symptoms immediately upon starting (the flashing check engine light, loss of power).
I'll check with him what he means when he says the plugs were "fouled" -- He showed me one of the plugs and it did look black and burned. From what he was saying to me, it seemed that he was meaning that it was fouled with gas that wasn't burning off.
As far as the other questions, I'll ask him about those magical glasses
Thanks for your help...
I would also suggest you check the coolant reservoir bottle closely. Hers developed a leak (very common, it is plastic). I had to go to Mazda and buy a replacement. Very easy to replace though. The reservoir tank should be full to the "max" line.
Also, have you changed the timing belt yet? I know the V6 is good for 105k, not sure about the 4 cylinder belt, but it may only be 60k.