Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda 626 Troubles

14445464749

Comments

  • plumberdanplumberdan Member Posts: 2
    i need help with this code car is un able to pass smog untill i resolve this issue. any help would be great.
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Member Posts: 4
    whatever happened with your 626, was the engine fried? yesterday i was driving my 99 626 with 200,000 on it and on entering the freeway and accelerating to highway speed it suddenly lost power and will hardly go. i checked with just answer and they think it is the catalytic convertor. just curious to your findings, the symptoms are somewhat similar.
  • zedzzedz Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. I am a newbie here and need a bit of help. Last night driving down the m6 doing 70mph my cambelt broke. AA got me back home and said the cambelt had boke and at 70 mph the possibility of the valves being bent were very high and the repair cost could be as high as the value of the car itself. Is this true due to the bank holiday i cant get it to the garage for a while. Bought my 2000 model diesel for £2K year and a half ago and no probs at all till now. read somewhere if its a non interferance engine it may be ok have no idea what this means but is it true. sorry for the essay but any help is appreciated.

    cheers
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Unfortunately I don't have specs on UK models and we don't have this engine in the USA.

    But yes, if it is a non-interference engine that you're okay. Basically "interference" means that the pistons, going up and down, are timing by the timing belt NOT to hit the valves, which are above the pistons and also going up and down. Rather like a clockwork. However, on an interference engine, should this "timing" be interrupted by breakage of the belt, the pistons, still spinning, will indeed hit the valves, also still spinning from momentum---even though the valves and pistons are no longer connected by the timing belt.

    The reason for interference design is to give a lower engine profile and I would imagine longer piston stroke.

    You can't rely on AA to give you accurate info. You need to go to a qualified garage or contact a Mazda dealer about this.

    If the valves are bent, you do have a considerable expense to bear---the head must come off, new valves installed, etc. It's generally not about a "whole new engine"---not that drastic, but still here in the states this could be a $1500 job, no problem.
  • zedzzedz Member Posts: 2
    Thanks or the reply. Due to bank holday here its a major problem getting a mechanic to look at it. I work 7 miles from home no bus and taxis are expensive and because i just started cant take time off work. will try to ring both the garage and mazda tomorrow to see if they can give me advise before i know if i have to scrap the car. Sad really.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well not all modern engines are interference and perhaps the diesel needn't be. Do let us know.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Question about the EGR passage cleaning. I just did this to resolve low EGR flow CEL. Cleaned out throttle body and passages, and replaced gasket. Put everything back together, reconnected battery, and started car. Car is idling a little rough now, and is making a squealing sound when idling and when under light throttle. The gasket I used is a Mazda part, and I tightened all 4 throttle bolts very tight. I had to scrape the old gasket off. Any ideas on what is causing the squealing sound, which to me sounds like an air leak? Is it possible I did not put the gasket on correctly?? I would love to see a good pic of a gasket installed correctly, but so far have non found one anywhere. Thanks for any suggestions :)
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    Squealing might be your belt(s) slipping because of the rough idle. The rough idle might be because of a loose vacuum hose. I don't have this model 626, but there are normally lots of vacuum hoses on and around the EGR valve.
  • dixiedcdixiedc Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 that makes a clunking sound when you take off from a stopped position and when you change gears.
  • pc2129pc2129 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 626 es 2001 4cyl 2.0 manual, here's my problem. my battery light turned on, It's been on for about two weeks now... I suspect the alternator, is there any other possibility? I
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Squealing sound was caused by carbon debris that had fallen into the EGR tubes as I cleaned out the main ports inside the throttle body. I opened the throttle body back up, shot some more cleaner down in the tubes, took car out and drove it for a while and squeal is gone. Idle is also back to normal and car is running well. Next on list to do is replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Always something!!
  • dfwtxpatrickdfwtxpatrick Member Posts: 1
    Got a friend that had his oil pump go out. Motor is knocking like an old Singer Sewing Machine.

    Does anyone know if any axles or the transmission are in the way of removing the oil pan?

    This will depend on whether or not the car gets fixed.
  • demetriusnycdemetriusnyc Member Posts: 1
    ihave 1996 mazda 626 my clutch is all thw way to the floor does it have a clutch cable ? What could be the problem it will ot go in gear.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably a failed clutch slave or clutch master cylinder. There's no cable.
  • skykingdumb1skykingdumb1 Member Posts: 6
    Have looked for crank position sensor, but cannot locate. I was told it was near serpentine belt and wire harness comes up near manifold ??? Not there. Anyone???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think that car uses a CPS, which would explain perfectly why you can't find it!
  • jrahojraho Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    It seems i have the exact same problem as you have.....since my battery went flat the idling is rough...to say the least!
    Did you find a solution?
    John.
  • skykingdumb1skykingdumb1 Member Posts: 6
    Well, that explains that! Then my next question is ,why will it run for 45 mins then quit? Won't restart until couple of hrs later. Tank clean, new sock, pump working,, I'm at a loss. Great running when running
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Hi Guys

    MY wifes Mazda 626lxa (1994 atx ) overheated last week in Greece. We costantly check the water level from the plastic reserve tank and it is always full, or we top it off.

    After car overheated she brought it to a mechanic who said we must check by opening radiator cap while cold , once a month and and see if it is really full. He said with age water does not circulate properly between actual radiator and reserve tank. He compared it to hardening of the arterys in people. He also said bubbles can flow in the line and stop the water from passing

    He drained all the coolant, refilled it and said keep an eye on it . Lo and behold after an aprrox 200 fairly high speed (80MPH ) mile trip in hot weather , she opened the actual radiator and it is a little low , while the reserve tank is showing completely full.
    Is there a hose that connects the reserve/ overflow tank(plastic) to the actual radiator that could be the cause.

    What else can cause this problem in a 15 year old car .
    I am presently in the States and am trying to diagnose the problem with your help from afar.
    Thanks
  • rosedersarosedersa Member Posts: 1
    Please go file it at http://www.autosafety.org/fileacomplaint/

    Something needs to be done about how poorly this car was made and the people who have been made to suffer for investing in Mazda. I will never buy from them again.
  • autobahn5autobahn5 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, there's a pipe (usually a hose) linking the plastic reserve tank to the radiator, and it might have been blocked, though, this is rarely the case.

    Most overheating problems in 626s arise from wiring problems with d cooling fan(s) (e.g. burnt out wires) or blocked radiator cells (usually from accumulation of sludge over time due to filling with dirty water).

    To prevent overheating, always be sure that your cooling fans are indeed working whenever u switch on d car engine. If ur engine still overheats with d fans working, ur radiator cells may be clogged. Finally, if u've had ur radiator removed and d cells cleaned out at a mechanic's, and ur car still overheats, d source is definitely from excessive friction within d engine block. U might need to change ur oil, filter and spark plugs.

    I,m certain by d time u've tried all these, ur car will b just o.k.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    These cars are also known for the coolant tank developing a leak at the bottom. I have replaced the tank on my daughter's '99 model twice in the past 3 years. Both developed cracks on the bottom in the seam of the plastic tank. First indicator of a problem was overheating, especially when stopped at traffic lights.
  • jmclellandjmclelland Member Posts: 1
    i WAS GOING DOWN THE INTERSTATE AND THE MOTOR STOPPED PULLING. BY THE TIME I COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD THE ENGINE DIED AND WOULDN'T START. I HAVE HAD FRIENDS TELL ME THAT IT'S TIMING BELT. COULD THIS BE TRUE? AND I ALSO HAVE A MAJOR OIL LEAK INSIDE THE TIMING COVER THAT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHERE IT'S COMING FROM.
  • askperryaskperry Member Posts: 21
    Yes, a timing belt failing will cause the engine to die. but there are lots of other things can cause the engine to stop. Top things that come to mind are, dead battery, failed alternator, alternator belt breaking, ignition coil failing, spark plug wire to ignition coil failing, overheating, engine fuse blowing and of course running out of gas.
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Member Posts: 14
    Once on a freeway my mazda 626 1999 model car all of sudden died, in such a way that dash board lights and all electrical functions went dead and the car comes to a complete halt. This was simply due to a dead fuse, but the mechanic charged me $600 US$ and at that time I was not sure. My car was coming from a hot environment and then into a sudden cold and was probably running for 2 days continuously, and that could have contributed to this. So do make sure that it is not the fuse.
  • bt100bt100 Member Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    As far as the EGR flow issue, this is a very common problem with these cars. It is caused by carbon build-up in the throttle body. There are 2 small ports that go to the EGR valve that get clogged and must be cleaned out by hand. You have to open up he throttle body to get to them. You will need to purchase a throttle body gasket before you do this, as you will destroy the one in place. They are cheap. Also get some throttle body cleaner to spray into the ports. Following is a link that explains it, including some pics: http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=13174&st=0

    If the EGR is stopped up bad enough, it might be fooling your computer system and making the tranny shift higher, maybe. Were any codes present indicating a tranny problem?

    If the timing belt has not replaced, I highly recommend getting this done. Do you know any maintenance history on your car?

    Brake light could just be low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid levels.
  • cliffmazda626cliffmazda626 Member Posts: 1
    you said the car is 15 years old and it overheated then maybe it's possible the head gasket has blown
  • lon8lon8 Member Posts: 1
    Where is the thermostat located on a 2000 626 e s?
  • runo4hruno4h Member Posts: 1
    I do not have an answer yet. I came inside after a ride in my wonderful 1999 626 that I love so much and have left parked for the last month, and decided to google my problem. Basicly we have the same complaints. Not sure what the rotors had to do with an idle problem. :) I left the car with a mechanic for a month before and had to go pick it up because some people don't see the reasoning in repairing a 10 year old car. I absolutely love my car!! When I graduate from college I'm buying a Mazda 6. I'm going to take some of the the suggested solutions to another mechanic this weekend and I'll let you know if I get it repaired. Good luck and post a reply if you get yours fixed!
  • renemrenem Member Posts: 4
    I've been experiencing the same rattle/vibration at low speeds for about a week. I recently had my muffler and back pipe replaced a month ago, so I know that is not the cause. I only hear the noise when I first start up my car until I am at about 35 mph. I don't know if it it goes away or if at the higher speed I just can't hear it, but it seems to disappear after the car has been running for a while. It is difficult to tell where the sounds is originating, but it seems to be more in the front.
  • renemrenem Member Posts: 4
    You probably already have the answer, but my 98 was stalling all the time as well. I had the PCV valve replaced and no more issues.
  • jamohjamoh Member Posts: 1
    I have my 626, 108K. Recently, I had crank-no-start issues. Sporadically. Like first try = cranks, no start. second try, starts right up. Happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the course of a month. Last Monday, crank and crank and crank, wouldn't start all day. Had it towed to a non-dealer service center. They said that the fuel pump is working, as in getting voltage, but that it's not getting the command to pump fuel. But otherwise it was working normally, because it was pressurizing, etc. The guys there said they couldn't find an electrical wiring diagrams that matched my car, apparently they changed a few times, and my car matches none of the diagrams they could find. They couldn't solve it, but called me the next day with the car starting up fine, 100% of the time. Went to pick up the car, and as it was almost dusk, turned on the headlights -- headlight relay just chirps/buzzes, won't turn on. Thinking the headlight relay is fairly simple, I traded the relay with the horn, as they are both the same part number. Horn still works, Lights still don't -- the relay just hums and buzzes. Odd indeed.

    The next day, starts fine, headlights work fine. Techs are stumped.

    I then recalled about a month ago, my wife reported that the airbag light was flashing when she drove the car. Next time I drove it, it was not. Then one day it did, and it was a 3-7 code. My limited search capabilities for finding the meaning of this lead me to believe it was irregular voltage detected on the passenger side module. (If anyone has the exact meaning, please advise.) But that went away and has not come back either.

    Long story short, I continue to have these intermittent, seemingly unrelated issues, that are various degrees of severity (can't drive the car at night without headlights, can't drive at all with it not starting, but can drive with a warning light occasionally).

    Some posts point to these lead back to something as generic as the alternator going bad, and not putting out enough current. I'm tempted to believe that, because windings do go bad, but I've never had a dead battery issue.

    Talking to the Mazda dealer, he wants to change the fuel pump and swap out the relays. I think this is short-sighted though. It's treating the symptoms, not treating the problem.

    So, along the lines of a pre-failed alternator, could this be something as simple as a bad ground somewhere too? Any similar stories to correlate here or advice is appreciated greatly.
  • iodomeiodome Member Posts: 1
    just replaced my slave and master cylinders for my clutch. still not getting any pressure.doesn't seem like it is taking any fluid from the reservoir. any suggestions? 1996 Mazda 626 4-cylinder
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    edited February 2010
    Two things "right off of the bat": One: The hydraulic system ie master cylinder, line/lines from it to the slave cylinder, as well as the slave cylinder must be "bled" of all air in them. Usually one can have an assistant pump or press up and down on the clutch pedal, while the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is opened, or loosened (while the pedal is held down) letting air mixed with fluid out,you can use a piece of rubber brake line going to a tin can to catch the old fluid mixed with air coming out, or a rag if you wish, and then closed or tightened BEFORE the pedal is allowed up so as not to draw any air back in. It is good to pump the pedal two or three times before it is held down to build pressure up before holding it down to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. This process is repeated numerous times, but stopped to top off the master cylinder(clutch) with brake or clutch fluid (same thing basically) so IT DOES NOT GO DRY THEREBY ALLOWING AIR BACK INTO THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. Usually this is complete with one or two topping offs of the master cylinder when it is roughly half empty.
    Second: The clutch must also be adjusted properly, ie, not too much freeplay, nor too tight that it will wear out the release bearing, and or cause the clutch to slip.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Just a random thought, but are the cables to the battery and the connections to the battery still good? Was having an issue with my daughter's '99, including flickering headlights. Finally would not start. Jumped it off enough to get to auto parts place. tested battery and it was bad. Replaced it. Hook up cables, car would not even begin to start. Bottom line was the negative connection, though it looked good, was not actually tightening on the negative battery post. Also explains battery going bad as I am sure it was not getting a charge off of alternator.
  • zoevzoev Member Posts: 2
    Hi... i recently bought a nice 99 626 automatic. love it, however, i got in an accident. replaced the front fender, driver side doors, signl, etc. had to replace driver side control arm, and adjust the frame for various noise. anyhow, now its almost perfect, but...
    after an alignment 3 wks ago, this clicking/binding noise in the drivers side wheel (?) is freaking me out. it happens only when i hit a bump/pothole or when im turning hard to the left. it sounds like a ball joint or god only knows.
    my mechanic took off the wheel and tightened and checked everything after driving with me briefly. sees nothing. also, sometimes i "feel" the noise in the brake pedal. does that make sense? any ideas? my mechanic said its probably this hard rubber piece that supports the axle or something when the car bounces up and down. thanx! ;)
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    I would almost definitely say that your front axle is damaged from the accident. If you can "feel" the noise in the brake pedal, the axle is front wheel drive, and will send input into the brakes. It could have been worn, and then damaged more in the accident, even though it apparently works, it could be damaged or bent or both.
    The worst case is that the transaxle is damaged as well. But try to get the front axle replaced first.
  • notagain2notagain2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm working on my wife's '96 626 ES, and I've found a NEW problem. To begin with, it munched its' alternator belt. I had to remove the entire idler pulley [non-permissible content removed]'y to make it function properly as the adjustment bolt had been shouldered off...'yummy'(or not). I put all the cookies back in the jar (+new pulley) and put on the belt and tensioned it per manual's instruction. I let it idle for a few, all was good. I checked everything again before zippin' her up when I smelled hot belt. The alternator pulley was SUPER HOT. It still turns but it's just murdered a new belt. So I ask you,..."say whaaaaattttt??!!!??!? I know I have to replace the alt. but why the heat issue and can you direct me as to the best way to remove/replace the unit?
    thnx a mil! notagain2
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 Mazda 626 DX. I HAD belt problems with my alternator belt as well.
    There are several things to consider.
    #1.If the belt is removed, can the alternator pulley spin freely?
    It should keep spinning after you let go of it for at least a second or two.

    #2. The new pulley you installed should ALSO spin freely.
    Sometimes one can over tighten a perfectly good pulley, and it will bind up and not spin well.
    Requiring, a spacer washer to be installed possibly, or simply using a lockwasher
    and or locktight, to prevent vibration from loosening it,backing it off a bit, and then not tightening it quite as much when re-tightening.

    #3. The alternator, pulley and crank pullies all have to be in alignment, meaning that the belt is running in a straight path, not left or right too much, sometimes the alternator,bracket(alternator) or pulley, has to have a different bolt or a washer or two added to bring the belt's path into proper alignment.

    #4. Lastly, proper belt tensioning has to mean that ten to fifteen pounds of pressure
    flexes the belt at least a half inch, up to one inch, ten to fifteen pounds is not a lot of pressure.

    Also: A new belt WILL flex and stretch, mostly after a few minutes of running,
    so, I advise you to RE-Check belt tension after starting and running just a few minutes. And, again, not too tight if you re-tension that belt. It will squeal if it's too loose anyway.
  • mazdalover4mazdalover4 Member Posts: 1
    have a 97 626 141,000 miles had the wheel bearing replaced he took apart the pasenger side by mistake got it back with a bushing noise I suppose in the upper strut P side haven't looked too far yet anyone got ideas
  • kennekkennek Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 mazda 626 dx that has no spark but has power to the coils. I took off the dist. cap and everything looks good. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas if theres a sensor that might be out that i could do myself>
  • travo71861travo71861 Member Posts: 1
    my 01 626 just started having transmission problem. I changed the fluid. The pump is working, the filter is not stopped up. When you put it in drive from a dead stop, it does not want to go. You have to rev the rpms up to like 2000 and it will slowly start moving until it gets up to like 20 mph then will shift good and no problem after that. When you rev it up it will eventually catch and shift and run great. Its just everytime you start from a dead stop it doesnt want to go. seems like it has to build up pressure or something. Is there an electrical problem? Would it be the soilinoid? Is the valve body stopped up? Can someone help me figure this out please. Its my only way to go.
  • malice2malice2 Member Posts: 1
    About 2 weeks ago both my engine temperature gauge and my fuel gauge gauge both way beyond the red line on the temperature gauge and fuel gauge. I have a 93 mazda 626. After a few times of turn the key into the on position they will return to normal levels.

    I decided to take a look today and noticed the my engine coolant temperature sensor was melted in half at the base right above the bolt. I know it needs to be replaced but would that cause my gauges to act like that?
  • zoevzoev Member Posts: 2
    after a serious accident my car was making a noise from the driver side wheel. my mechanic looked for two hours, working on it, test driving. turned out to be a loose sway bar link or whatever. took the second place five minutes to find the problem. they said it wasnt harmful, but loud as hell.
  • bellagoboombellagoboom Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i saw that you had a 95 626 and was curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • bellagoboombellagoboom Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i am curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love it but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • infamousfazeinfamousfaze Member Posts: 1
    i recently had the timing belt replaced, the mechanic removed the pulleys for the serpentine belt and alternator belt to have access to the timing parts. well he replaced everything ..but now everytime i want to turn on my car it sounds like my alternator belt is spinning round without turning the car on. i have to tighten screw that moves the idler pulley and find a position where it turns on. but then after 20 min the car starts stalling and sometimes turns off and i have to repeat the routine. any ideas on what it could be? the idler pulley (the pulley closest to the hood that moves when you tighten the screw) sounds a little rough when i spin it. any ideas?
  • bigmike62bigmike62 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks! My wifes 1999 626 4 cyl is doing the exact thing.....
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Just thought I would share this. My daughter's '99 V6 model was experiencing occasional no start issues. Went on for a few days, then would not start at all. Engine cranked, all electricals were working, but no start. I noticed that I was not hearing the fuel pump. Had car towed to the shop. Of course it started for them initially, but then went back to the no start issue. Turned out all it needed was a fuel pump relay. And a new fuel filter. Hope this helps someone.
Sign In or Register to comment.