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Comments
I sure like synthetic in the tranny. Huge difference with 2 of my vehicles.
No sure about engine oils yet. One with a small hard working engine uses synthetic, my Mazda currently uses hydrocracked Valvoline Maxlife, and my old beater still uses a dino blend.
The only way to tell if the wheel bearings are shot is to take it into a shop. When they take the weight off of the wheel a bad bearing is noisy.
My repairman was a Mazda specialist at a dealer for 20 years before he set up an independent shop.
He said that the front struts on Mazdas are expected to last about 80,000 miles. The most obvious sign of strut wear is leakage. Check to see if it is bent out of shape as well. Failing to smooth the ride over those small bumps however may be a clear sign that replacement is needed. Again, a mechanic will be needed to let you know. I put premium shocks on the front and don't regret the extra $50.00. It's a better ride.
My son bought the Mazda I now own at 65,000 miles. It always vibrated just like you said. At 110K, after the above accident and all other repairs were made, it still vibrated at high speeds. It also wouldn't track straight. The core problem was that the ball joint was worn out. Since we had neglected it so long, the power control arm on that side was bad also. Have the mechanic definitely check the ball joints. It if had been repaired earlier it would have saved me a bundle.
Since we had neglected the repair so long we also had to replace the tires. A wheel alignment should also be considered.
I think that with the appropriate repair you can have a better ride than new.
What I never could figure out was that California recommendation to inspect at 60k, 75k and 90k (I think: the manual is out in the car, and it's 19 degrees fercrissake, and I'm not going out in the snow to go look at it), and replace at 105k. I mean, if you're going to open the covers and look underneath, you might as well change the belt and be done with it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I won't worry too much about the noise. Had 138k miles on my 93 ES and it is still running strong, despite the noise when engine is cold.
My dilema is, while waiting for the part, the light went out! Any ideas what's going on? My gut is to let them give me a new computer, but I'm not sure....
Any thoughts?
Check Engine lights are intermitent quite often anyway.
Wouldn't be suprized if it's those *&^%(*& Oxygen sensors.
They're listed as a regular maintenence item at 60,000. And they're over 200 apeice
I had originally taken it to the dealer for this problem and this is what I was told. So, next time I will ignore it for 10 days.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I could get Oxygen Sensors up to 1997 for the 626. A considerable savings. We just had to buy the 1997 ones 8 months ago at $250.00 apeice.
It's so cheap I'm going to have them replace the old one on my 1991 at my 120,000 mile checkup.
I have experienced no problems with fuel economy, pick-up etc.
Is the light timed to go on and off at regular mileage intervals?
I find the light worthless and a damm annoyance.
Thanks
Mark
My 98 626 has 73k with no real problems (knock on wood)
Good luck
Make sure you kill the fuel pressure (yank the relay out of the box while the engine is running) before you mess with this thing.
legacy - well, that sounds strange to me. Just based on the grinding/holding in gears/missing low gears I would also say its the tranny. BUT, it is odd that you had the starter problem at the same time. Its either a bad coincidence or the 2 problems are related (which is possible). Just bad luck, I think.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Change out Power Steering and brake fluids every 30,000 miles.
Immediately change out the transmission Fluid and add Lubegard, repeat every 15,000 miles. Very stable with this extra maintenance. Not following these procedures WILL cause transmission problems.
Follow the Severe maintenance schedule, according to miles, but never exceeding the TIME listed on the normal maintenance schedule.
I change timing belt every 60,000 miles even though California recommends 105K on the same belt. Not worth possible wrecking an engine if it breaks at high speed.
Repack CV boots when you get to about 75,000. Don't wait for cracking.
Disregard the later post with problems. It's clear to me that it was not maintained properly. My V4 is a 1991 and has 120K miles also. It is such a joy to drive that we hope to keep it to at least 250,000 miles. It looks like it will do so with proper care.
Your list of problems is phenomenal.
1. Clunking Noise when turning. When this happened with mine it was the Strut Mounts and Struts were also worn out. You've gotten good life out of these for OEM versions. Many go sooner. Routine Maintenance.
2. Oil seal leaking. Normal Maintenance. I have 3 different cars with overhead cam engines and they ALWAYS leaked around 120,000 miles on the valve covers. If your cam and engine seals are leaking among the timing belt, this would also be a normal maintenance item. On my vehicles they also tend to break down at this time.
3. CV boots. Normal. A pain, but I've had to repack them about every 75K. See if they can get in a high quality boot if needed again. It wasn't very good when replaced the first time.
4. Check engine light. Do a tuneup, replace PCV valve, Air filter, and Oxy sensor. Leaving the check engine light on means that it is not working correctly and should have been addressed much earlier. I've seen some amazing lack of performance issues, including oil leakage when PCV valve and oxygen sensors issues haven't been addressed.
6. Get a compression test. That will be a good measure of whether the oil in the tailpipe is a tuning or engine failure issue. I REALLY don't like the oil in the tailpipe This may be a sign of major repair needed.
Other than that, there's not much I can add to what Mr D has to say.
There aren't any real V6-only issues of any significance, except for the fact that you have, for instance, twice as many valve cover gaskets to spring leaks.
One thing you will notice is that the overdrive in the four is a lot taller than the one in the V6; you may be surprised at how high the revs get out on the open road.
- Conrad
I consider 180,000 on the original CV boots almost miraculous. Nothing of Japanese origin survived much over 75K without repacking. My Dodge had one repacked at 155K and the other one is still strong. So hopefully the newer ones under stronger Ford influence will hold up better.