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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    24,000, or every other year should generally be fine.

    I sure like synthetic in the tranny. Huge difference with 2 of my vehicles.

    No sure about engine oils yet. One with a small hard working engine uses synthetic, my Mazda currently uses hydrocracked Valvoline Maxlife, and my old beater still uses a dino blend.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    My Mazda had almost all of the suspension components replaced last January due to wear and a small accident.

    The only way to tell if the wheel bearings are shot is to take it into a shop. When they take the weight off of the wheel a bad bearing is noisy.

    My repairman was a Mazda specialist at a dealer for 20 years before he set up an independent shop.

    He said that the front struts on Mazdas are expected to last about 80,000 miles. The most obvious sign of strut wear is leakage. Check to see if it is bent out of shape as well. Failing to smooth the ride over those small bumps however may be a clear sign that replacement is needed. Again, a mechanic will be needed to let you know. I put premium shocks on the front and don't regret the extra $50.00. It's a better ride.

    My son bought the Mazda I now own at 65,000 miles. It always vibrated just like you said. At 110K, after the above accident and all other repairs were made, it still vibrated at high speeds. It also wouldn't track straight. The core problem was that the ball joint was worn out. Since we had neglected it so long, the power control arm on that side was bad also. Have the mechanic definitely check the ball joints. It if had been repaired earlier it would have saved me a bundle.

    Since we had neglected the repair so long we also had to replace the tires. A wheel alignment should also be considered.

    I think that with the appropriate repair you can have a better ride than new.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I had my '99 626 (4cyl) transmission serviced today. ($65 incl tax - for a drain plug loosened up and new fluid put in - I'll do it myself from now on) I talked to the mechanic (20yrs + of Mazda exp) and he said that if it were his car he'd go longer than 60k on the timing belt. Any testimonials on this one way or the other?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Well, exactly the same belt is supposed to last 105,000 miles in California - the Assembly apparently thinks it can regulate the laws of physics, which explains much about the state's Air Quality Board - so presumably there's that much margin built into the belt, and therefore I don't think it's necessary to run to the shop the moment the mileage rolls past 59,999.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    if you ever needed some shread of legal recourse, suggested interval is 60k.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    On the other hand, 60k is beyond the usual warranty period. (I have no experience with Mazda's own extended warranty, so I have no idea what it covers or fails to cover.)

    What I never could figure out was that California recommendation to inspect at 60k, 75k and 90k (I think: the manual is out in the car, and it's 19 degrees fercrissake, and I'm not going out in the snow to go look at it), and replace at 105k. I mean, if you're going to open the covers and look underneath, you might as well change the belt and be done with it.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    The timing belt, that is, on the 4cyl engine?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It would help if you have a steering-wheel puller, because that's what it takes to get the crankshaft pulley out of the way - that is, once you've removed all the accessory belts and the power-steering pump, but before you start taking off the valve cover.
  • jschermerjschermer Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Mazda 626 ES with 5 Speed. Recently the dashlight for the security system has started to malfunction. When the car is locked the light comes on and stays on until a key is put into the ignition. When the system is armed, the light is supposed to flash and turn off when a door is unlocked. Has anybody else had this problem?
  • 34423442 Member Posts: 7
    Purchased a "94" 626 ES V/6 5-spd.a couple months ago with 97,000 mi. seems like a good car so far with the exception of lifters that are noisy all the time, mechanic said he's heard worse. He sugested puting a 1\2 qt. of tranny fluid in before I changed oil and run for 15 min. and drain. Then add an additive called MOA to oil.Said that would maybe clean the sludge out. Anyway that didn't make any difference. Has anyone had that problem with the V\6? Mech. said to replace lifters would run around $1000.00. Haven't checked any other place. Anyone having this problem would appreciate any help. Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    my '99 V6 had a bit of noise as well. I believe this was a topic of discussion quite some time ago here. Don't remember if there was any resolution. But, anyway, I just ignored mine. My Toyota had WAY worse valve tapping. Of course, I don't know exactly how loud yours is, so I can't tell you if you should do anything. I doubt I would put $1000 into it, though, just to eliminate a bit of noise.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    When I was passing by and browsing I realized this question. As an x-mazda 626 owner, all I can say this is pretty much normal for Mazdas. At that time I was recommended engine flush + genuine mazda oil filter. After market filters are not capable of keeping oil pressure. Advises helped but did no resolve the problem. Good luck.
  • 34423442 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the come back. Yes, I agree $1000.oo is a little much just to eliminate lifter noise. My main concern was what the lasting effect would be eventially on the engine.Thanks again
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    put it this way, even if you let it go and it DOES become a problem. It will still be a rebuilt head and you'd still be looking at a grand to fix it (not counting inflation :). So I say just live with it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    As mentioned before, the Mazda oil filter does help a lot.
    I won't worry too much about the noise. Had 138k miles on my 93 ES and it is still running strong, despite the noise when engine is cold.
  • billt7billt7 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2001 626 LX I4 auto,Does Bosch oil filters work well or should I use Mazda filters, also can anyone recommend an after market tranny filter.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got a 99 626 w/ 4cyl engine. Approx 54k miles. Just had the transmission serviced. They drained what came out and I had them add 10oz. bottle of lubegaurd. For the first time I notice hesitation on takeoff. Could this be the beginning of the dreaded tanny problems with the 4cyl? When car is is in park there is no hesistation at all when I rev the engine. Once the car is moving there is no problems. SHifts are all smooth as ever.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    My Dad hadn't serviced his tranny for about 60,000 miles. After it was first serviced, it did the same thing for about 6 weeks, including a long trip. I checked a couple of months later, and it had settled down. When I drove it on a longer trip about 6 months after the repair, it performed flawlessly.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Not for the CD4E/LA4A-EL; the filter is internal (and I mean way internal) and not accessible without major disassembly.
  • billt7billt7 Member Posts: 2
    Has anybody used or recommends using a magnefine in line filter.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    I recently cleaned the throttle body on my '97 Mazda 626 w/ 2.5 V-6....afterward, the check engine light would not go out. I drove it for about a week, then took it to the dealer. They said the PCM module (computer) was bad, and they'd replace it under warranty. (I have 62500 miles on this car, so I'm guessing this is the emission's warranty.) Only problem was, they had to order the part.

    My dilema is, while waiting for the part, the light went out! Any ideas what's going on? My gut is to let them give me a new computer, but I'm not sure....

    Any thoughts?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    If they will do it under warranty then let them. They did the check, they are the experts.

    Check Engine lights are intermitent quite often anyway.

    Wouldn't be suprized if it's those *&^%(*& Oxygen sensors.

    They're listed as a regular maintenence item at 60,000. And they're over 200 apeice
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    well, not sure about the Mazda in this case, but I do know that the check engine light on my Volvo is known to come on if there is any temporary change in the fuel system vacuum (i.e. loose fuel cap) and it will not go off for 7-10 days even after the cap is tightened again.

    I had originally taken it to the dealer for this problem and this is what I was told. So, next time I will ignore it for 10 days. ;)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • craigs4craigs4 Member Posts: 9
    I have installed Magnefine filters in all 3 of our family vehicles. They have been tested and approved by Ford, have a Ford part number and are available from Ford dealers, ( for a much higher price than from Magnefine) They were proven to extend pan filter cleaning intervals to 100,000 miles as long as the Magnefine was replaced every 2 years or 30,000 miles. They can also be used on your power steering system. Cheap insurance. Available at www.emergingent.com
  • craigs4craigs4 Member Posts: 9
    Get your oxygen sensors from www.buyoxygensensors.com Exact fit and great prices.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    That is an amazing site.

    I could get Oxygen Sensors up to 1997 for the 626. A considerable savings. We just had to buy the 1997 ones 8 months ago at $250.00 apeice.

    It's so cheap I'm going to have them replace the old one on my 1991 at my 120,000 mile checkup.
  • bergyonebergyone Member Posts: 4
    I have a '96 626 with nearly 75K. Three weeks ago it started to take a long time to start when it hadn't run lately. It would take 3 or more turns of the key, cranking for several seconds, before it would finally go. Once it had started, it would start within a couple turns. I have an extended warranty that is about to run out. I took it to the local garage, they checked the fuel pressure overnight, couldn't find anything and cleaned the throttle body and injectors. A few days later, it was back to its old tricks. I took it to a Mazda dealer, and they tried it every morning for a few days, and couldn't get to hiccup. Finally, they were checking it out and fortunately, it wouldn't start right away and they determined it needed a fuel pump. We're waiting for the part now. Has anyone else experienced an intermittant fuel pump?
  • flamazdaflamazda Member Posts: 11
    Just went over 15,000 miles--went ahead and had the transmission fluid service. Didn't think it would need it, but in reading this board, decided to. No additives, just Mazda service. BIG DIFFERENCE in smoothness of upshifts, etc. Definitely worth it. Probably most important to do the initial one soon, don't know how long the unit sat on the dealer's lot, and probably some inital break in stuff off the internals. Maintenance schedule missing this item in manual. Will watch color and smell of fluid, probably will do again in 20-25K.
  • mark38lmark38l Member Posts: 10
    The Check Engine Light has come on several times on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX starting at about 40,000 miles it will stay on between ~500-3000 miles (about 1 to 5 weeks) and go out only to relite 8,000 to 12,000 miles later. The car now has 74,800 and has relite.

    I have experienced no problems with fuel economy, pick-up etc.

    Is the light timed to go on and off at regular mileage intervals?

    I find the light worthless and a damm annoyance.

    Thanks

    Mark
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Don't extend transmission service if it's an automatic. My Mazda mechanic who won many national awards in Mazda competitions said change it religiously every 15,000 Miles. They also put in anti-wear additive like Wearguard or Lubegard. He has over 20 years experience on Mazda engines almost exclusively.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Oxygen sensor may need replacing. The *&^%$#@!#$#$ thing is unfortunately probably a dealer item. The maintenance manual says that they need to be changed every 50,000 miles. Also, if it has an MAF sensor then it could likely need to be cleaned. Did you replace the spark plugs and do a tuneup at 60,000 as recommended?
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    My '99 626 (4cyl) 55k miles which has been perfect has started to miss when cruising @ 50 mph and then accelerating. Have just started noticing some hesitation for the first time. Plugs were changed at 30k and will be changed again @ 60k. Its been very cold (10 degrees) and I wonder if it could be water in the fuel making the engine miss. Any ideas?
  • mark38lmark38l Member Posts: 10
    check the fuel filter, and try some dry gas.

    My 98 626 has 73k with no real problems (knock on wood)

    Good luck
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    My understanding is that the Mazda 626 (99 4cyl) fuel filter is in the tank and that you don't change it. Anybody know for sure?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Unless they moved it just for '99, it's under the hood. In fact, in the 2.0-liter, it's usually under the cruise-control actuator, a smidgen northeast of the air cleaner. Not especially easy to get to.

    Make sure you kill the fuel pressure (yank the relay out of the box while the engine is running) before you mess with this thing.
  • legacy94legacy94 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 1988 626 5-Speed. It has given me no problems for the past 5 yr s. Then the other day we warmed it up for about 15 minutes, shut it off and it wouldn't start. When you turned it over it just went click, click, click and then nothing. Battery is 2 months old, went and got a new one, no start. Hammered at the starter and it started for 1 minute, then nothing. Replaced starter today. Now I have only top gears, 1/3/5. You can hold it in the lower gears, but if you let go it grinds. Thought maybe my clutch had gone but I still have smooth shifting in the top gears...Checked the linkage on the hoist and it looks fine??? Any Ideas? Of course, dealers say transmission, and of course, I am skeptical. Would there by any warning that your transmission was failing? Everything else, knock on wood, is excellent. Thanks in advance for any input!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got a chance to buy a 2000 EX V6/automatic with 16k miles. What are the problems (if any) with the V6 powertrain in the 626? I'm assuming that they are a little more reliable than the 4 cyl models. Any feedback would be appreciated. BTW, the car I'm looking at has abs/traction control/Bose system w/ cd changer for $14k. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    jonbgood. that sounds like a good deal to me. Nice car. Real nice car.

    legacy - well, that sounds strange to me. Just based on the grinding/holding in gears/missing low gears I would also say its the tranny. BUT, it is odd that you had the starter problem at the same time. Its either a bad coincidence or the 2 problems are related (which is possible). Just bad luck, I think.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • stevep12stevep12 Member Posts: 6
    Hi! I've got a 95 626 LX-V6 w/the 5 spd manual. I've got 119K on it with no major money put into it except for the timing belt when I bought it @63K and having CV boots replaced. It's now almost due for another and I have it in the shop as we speak for a variety of ailments: Engine light (been on for 3 years), oily deposits on tailpipe and bumper, blue smoke from tailpipe when downshifting, oil leaks on top of engine (valve cover gaskets?), and a clunking noise coming from the wheelwells whenever the wheel is turned over almost all the way in either direction. I'm waiting for a call with a diagnosis and estimate. I've done all of the basic maintenance since I got the car. Given what seems to be a large number of posts knocking the long term reliability of the 626, should I start looking for a new ride, or is do these problems sound like regular wear and tear? Just looking for a little feedback.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    The V6 is more prone to oil seal leaks than the V4. Even though it has low miles I would immediately drain out the oil and put in a hydrocracked oil like Castrol Syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, or Quaker State Higher Mileage Engine Oil. A statement like high quality base stocks appears on the bottle. I spend my spare time over Christmas holidays looking at these oils spec sheets, and doing extensive research. I believe that it is very close to synthetics for cold weather starts, antisludging capabilities, reduced consumption of oil, and are almost equal to synthetics in everything but extended drain intervals. Hydrocracked oils are impressive. Synthetics don't baby seals like the hydrocracked oils and will cause leaks in seals a little quicker. than conventional oil. You get most of the benefits for about half of the price of a synthetic.

    Change out Power Steering and brake fluids every 30,000 miles.

    Immediately change out the transmission Fluid and add Lubegard, repeat every 15,000 miles. Very stable with this extra maintenance. Not following these procedures WILL cause transmission problems.

    Follow the Severe maintenance schedule, according to miles, but never exceeding the TIME listed on the normal maintenance schedule.

    I change timing belt every 60,000 miles even though California recommends 105K on the same belt. Not worth possible wrecking an engine if it breaks at high speed.

    Repack CV boots when you get to about 75,000. Don't wait for cracking.

    Disregard the later post with problems. It's clear to me that it was not maintained properly. My V4 is a 1991 and has 120K miles also. It is such a joy to drive that we hope to keep it to at least 250,000 miles. It looks like it will do so with proper care.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Steve,

    Your list of problems is phenomenal.

    1. Clunking Noise when turning. When this happened with mine it was the Strut Mounts and Struts were also worn out. You've gotten good life out of these for OEM versions. Many go sooner. Routine Maintenance.

    2. Oil seal leaking. Normal Maintenance. I have 3 different cars with overhead cam engines and they ALWAYS leaked around 120,000 miles on the valve covers. If your cam and engine seals are leaking among the timing belt, this would also be a normal maintenance item. On my vehicles they also tend to break down at this time.

    3. CV boots. Normal. A pain, but I've had to repack them about every 75K. See if they can get in a high quality boot if needed again. It wasn't very good when replaced the first time.

    4. Check engine light. Do a tuneup, replace PCV valve, Air filter, and Oxy sensor. Leaving the check engine light on means that it is not working correctly and should have been addressed much earlier. I've seen some amazing lack of performance issues, including oil leakage when PCV valve and oxygen sensors issues haven't been addressed.

    6. Get a compression test. That will be a good measure of whether the oil in the tailpipe is a tuning or engine failure issue. I REALLY don't like the oil in the tailpipe This may be a sign of major repair needed.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    75k seems to be close to the limit on CV boots on these cars; I managed somewhere in the low 80s.

    Other than that, there's not much I can add to what Mr D has to say.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    By general agreement, the GF4A-EL tranny in the V6 cars is sturdier than the LA4A-EL (CD4E) in the four-bangers, though its shift mapping seems even dumber sometimes.

    There aren't any real V6-only issues of any significance, except for the fact that you have, for instance, twice as many valve cover gaskets to spring leaks.

    One thing you will notice is that the overdrive in the four is a lot taller than the one in the V6; you may be surprised at how high the revs get out on the open road.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The only time I ever had this happen to me was in an ancient Toyota Celica that lost third gear. Bearings on the gear itself, they said. Not expensive. Then again, being ancient and all, this car was RWD; pulling out the gearbox on a front-driver is more difficult and more costly.
  • legacy94legacy94 Member Posts: 2
    We were thinking (or just hoping)along the lines of a clutch-related problem rather than a tranny scenario. The car has been a good 2nd vehicle but I don't want to put anymore than $500 into it. It's in excellent cond but just getting tired I suppose. We just sold our dually, and we need another truck to haul horses, so I'll drive the 626 gingerly for now. I would really like an inexpensive fix so that I could either trade it in or prolong the life for a couple more years. It beats our truck on fuel mileage and is the "go into town" car. The real problem is that it's hard to find a good honest mechanic. I always feel like they know exactly what I'm talking about or describing, but always have to "open her up" before they can say for sure. I figure that when I am asking a transmission shop, then they should have run into all kinds of problems either very similar or the same as mine. Maybe just a HUGE inner trust issue with me and mechanics!!:)
  • conradsmithconradsmith Member Posts: 10
    I just sold a '93 626 4cyl, 5spd with 180,000 on it, and it was running fine. The only problems I have had have been with the plug harness and throttle body. It did have oil leaks on the engine that I assumed were from the valve cover gaskets. That seems OK for that mileage. I've changed the timing belt (and other belts and hoses) twice, but I don't remember having to replace the CV boots. It was still getting me to work and back. I wouldn't have sold it but the new MDX would have made our driveway too crowded (with 2 Mazdas and 2 Acuras). At least I will be commuting in a 2000 626 now, so I won't miss my silver one too much.
    - Conrad
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    As I write I am replacing the CV Axle. Warned about a boot starting to crack last year, but had just spend 3,000 on accident repairs and couldn't afford it at the time. Oh well, this procedure cost me an extra $100 for the delay.

    I consider 180,000 on the original CV boots almost miraculous. Nothing of Japanese origin survived much over 75K without repacking. My Dodge had one repacked at 155K and the other one is still strong. So hopefully the newer ones under stronger Ford influence will hold up better.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Windowphobe6 said something about pulling the fuel pump fuse while the engine is running before trying to change the filter. Couldn't I just clamp the fuel tank side of the filter hose with vice grips with the engine off and keep from having any fuel spill. (or at least any quantity of it) If not - where is the fuel pump fuse located? Thanks.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Actually WIndowphobe6 posted "yank the relay out of the box" before trying to srvc. the fuel filter. I know where the fuse box is but nothing is marked fuel relay. Any ideas anybody?
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Actually WIndowphobe6 posted "yank the relay out of the box" before trying to srvc. the fuel filter. I know where the fuse box is but nothing is marked fuel relay. Any ideas anybody?
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