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If you do have the keyless system, can you find out why you didn't get any remotes? And make sure that Mazda deletes the codes for the old remotes from your system - otherwise there's someone out there with a remote that works on your car!
Hope this was helpful - Gregg
626 (four-cylinder) - '94-up - Ford CD4E
626 (V6) - all - Mazda G4A-EL
Millenia (base) - Mazda G4A-EL
Millenia S - Jatco JF403E (Nissan RE4F04A)
The current (F) version of the G4A-EL appeared first in '93.
The peak years for CD4E problems were '94 through '97. (Ford redesigned the pump plate and gasket in late 1996, and the coast/forward clutch assembly in early 1998, addressing two major problem areas.)
Has anyone changed from 14" wheels to 15" wheels?
The 15" alloy wheels are available and the 14"
alloys are not.
gary
I thought I'd do some browsing to see what owners have to say about the Mazda, and it sounds like the transmissions haven't been very dependable.
My son has a Ford that has lived up to its initials Fix Or Repair Daily and if the Mazda has a Ford transmission, I'd avoid it like the plague.
I appreciate greatly the candor and honesty of those who have made entries on this message board.
I think I'll stick to Toyotas.
I guess I'm one of the fortunate ones - I got one of the last four-bangers with the V6-version tranny.
leakage. We own a 96 Mazda 626, it currently has
73,000 miles. We noticed the power steering fluid
has been low. Brought it in to our mechanic. He
states the leakage is from the rack and pinion
unit. It's seems odd to me that a 4 year old
vehicle should have such an issue. Has anyone run
into this issue before and does the rack and
pinion
unit have a specific warranty period? Any info
would be greatly appreciated.
This is a sharp looking car, and there have not been a lot of problems with it. I do know that the one thing about it that I don't like is the rough way the AT shifts. The car now has about 101k on it, and I will probably get the tranny fluid changed. I hope to get about 175k from the car before repair costs become high enough to make me get something else.
This is my third Mazda. I had an '88 323, and a '91 B2200. Both were AWESOME! The 323 went 200k before needing repairs, and the truck at 140k still was in great shape. If you are looking for a long lasting, very cheap to run car, the BASIC 5 spd Protogee is a good choice. Avoid all the powered acces and extra options, they are usually what cost so much to keep repaired.
Get ready for a timing-belt change at 120k, and it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a new water pump while you're at it.
I am new mazda driver and I am very happy with it.
I bought a gray 91 LX with 105,000. I find it to be a very reliable automobile. I am also the kind of person who likes to HOOK cars up.
So I put on it Sumoto 205/55 tires on a 16 rim, a new CD player, tinted and more...
Well, I am basically saying that the car is a great car for a very reasonable price. That is why you shouldn't buy it new but used.
Resale Suck!
Fabian
There was also a recall notice on some minor thing I can't recall (pun intended). Had a butthole backed into the front bumper and didn't leave a note (imagine!) and it was a bit pricey to fix. The dealership quoted me $2000. Yeh, right. The new bumper and cracked grill cost about $1200 to fix at another place. But it's a lease, so...
Another thing I don't like about it is the heating/ac. It's not very accurate--always comes out of the dash even when it's setting is on feet only. My feet are always cold, so my hub and I fight with the settings. Ask the dealer if that was normal. Yep.
Also, the seats are very uncomfortable for short people and getting in and out of the car isn't so easy, even for a young person. The doors close on you.
So, I'm tossing the keys back in Aug. when the lease is up and looking at something else. The styling is pretty ordinary which is another reason I'm getting rid of it. My hub drives a Ford Ranger, which is a great truck. Comfy ride and fun. I want to love my car as much as he loves his truck.
Love the Bug, but need a little bit bigger back seat/trunk. Will keep looking...
On jhob's starting problem: The only time I ever saw something like that - and it wasn't in a 626 - it turned out to be a battery cable with an intermittent break.
On troyh's question about engine/transmission interaction: Everything goes through the same brain. Some things that are purely electrical can manifest themselves as seeming transmission problems. On my own 626, I was getting third-gear starts, occasionally even fourth-gear starts. Transmission gone south? Nope. A couple of small parts on the PCM were hosed. With any computer-controlled transmission - which means any automatic 626 since 1993 - it's wise to make sure the electrical systems are working properly before you spend the long dollar for a transmission rebuild.
The V6 cars have Mazda's own automatic, in production since 1987 and revised substantially in 1993, which is perhaps not as bright as Ford's - if you're on the cusp between third and fourth, you're going to watch this transmission go through all manner of indecisiveness - but by all accounts less likely to fall apart two weeks after the warranty runs out. I have this transmission in my '93, and it's doing well.
Maybe I should see if they will give me a good trade in on a new Tribute, which arrived yesterday. Since they just fixed it, they should be willing to give me top dollar (LOL).
I own a 93 626Dx with automatic tranny that was changed at 72K. The odo since reads 94K. What is the best way to extend the life of this tranny in terms of servicing. I heard it is not possible to replace the fluid completely since it does not have a "drop-down pan". Should I attempt a flush anyway ?
Also, for the last couple of thousand miles, the earlier smooth purring engine now makes a thump-thump sound. The tech. is not able to diagnose it and suggests waiting till it gets worse (more money in it for the dealership!). I do not wish to wait till the engine is ruined.
I will appreciate your suggestions.
Regards; KC Jones
As for the thumpage, there aren't a whole lot of components under there that can thump. I'm thinking "crankshaft damper", but that's a shot in the dark. When's the last time you had the timing cover off?
The 626 never has been staggeringly popular. A good year is 80,000 sales, versus about five times as many Accords or Camrys. Most people shopping in this size class don't even look at the 626, so it hasn't built up the sort of reputation it needs to have really high resale values. And the transmission problems that did crop up in the middle 90s - and are still happening to cars built in those years - have left some dealers skittish about 626 trade-ins, which doesn't help either. The '97 is probably the best year of the fourth-generation 626 (though I could do without the extra brightwork that was slathered on toward the end of the model's five-year run), and the Consumer Reports guys have reported that reliability is above average for that year. If you like the way it drives, grab it.
Thanks for the powerflush suggestion on the 93' tranny. I'll take that. I had the timing belt replaced about 3-4 months ago when the engine note had started to thump. The tech. said all the belts seemed OK. I'll try suggesting the crankshaft dampner to him. Might it be connected with the hydraulic lash adjusters in any way ? To get some idea, the engine sounds as if 2 sets of cylinders were to fire alternately in a pulsating manner.
Regards; - KCJ
It might be something as minor as a loose timing cover - or conceivably, the belt could be off by the width of one tooth, though this would tend to affect performance negatively. (The computer will compensate to the extent that it can.)
Thanks for the suggestions on the HLA and Mazda OEM filter. I'll check them out. I've been following the Mazda maintainance thread for sometime now. Your insights into the machine are impressive.
Regards; - KCJ
Some Mazda guys swear by "When in doubt, change the plug wires," and if you're still running on the originals, you're due.
Computer problems are uncommon, but possible, and the little buggers are expensive to repair and even more expensive to replace outright. If everything else checks out, though - and you'll have to have some serious circuit testing to be sure - then it pretty much has to be the computer. If the car's running well enough, I'd ignore the light until something serious happens.
Has anyone found the source of this problem, but more to the point, a credible fix for the same? There are times when the engine is running so rough at a stop that I think it's going to die on me. (I do have regular maintenance performed, but my dealer remains clueless.) Your thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
Thanks for sharing your time and knowlege.
I'd check, after that, the IAC valve, to make sure it's not gunked up or sticking. (Usually it can be cleaned; in really horrid cases, it must be replaced, but usually when it gets to this point, the engine won't idle at all.) Deposits on the valve, or on the throttle body or in the injection system, will cause undesirable results, so cleaning is definitely your first priority.
After that, look for air leaks - it's possible for cracks to develop in the intake tube - and for deposits in the mass-airflow sensor. Lots of possibilities, so it's better to take them one at a time.