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Saturn Maintenance & Repair
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Comments
Have fun,
Brad
As a 93 SW2 owner, I haven't changed the chain yet, but it can fail prior to 100k, even though many go to 150k. Oil changes are crucial in the 3-4k mile range to max chain life.
You didn't say if your mechanic was at a saturn dealer. I don't think timing chain is an issue for out of spec timing, so I wonder if your issue is really a timing problem at all; there's a tensioner that takes up wear and stretch of the chain until it's too far out and then the chain has to be replaced; usually timing chain NOISE (rattling sounds) is the first indicator of a problem. If the chain breaks it will damage the valves so be sure on this point.
Quotes for a chain at saturn dealers in my area have been in the 600-650 range.
Wrong plugs in saturns can cause problems and a host of other things can also (egr, engine temperature sensor, etc.) all much cheaper than a timing chain.
Check the www.saturnfans.com site forums doing a keyword search for info on what you're interested in getting help with - lots of smart folks there to point you in the right direction!!>>>> Good Luck
Some owners have experienced even greater consumption, so you shouldn't feel bad about this; this is about a quart per change.
It is also a good idea to keep your oil level up on the dip stick too; don't let it get too low before adding. The saturn engines use a timing chain [not a rubber timing belt] that needs good lubrication to have a long life.
The saturnfans site will give you more information; see message 5.
On a possibly related topic, the "Service Engine Soon" light has been coming on as well -- again, since we switched to synthetic. The mechanic said the code indicated a misfire in the fourth cylinder and an emissions code (I don't know what). Any relation?
Thanks in advance.
Compressor seizing is a bad thing to let happen. I'm surprised there was no warning noises for a few weeks prior, but you never know...
Let us know, but I think this is going to be a pretty expensive repair for your friend unfortunately.
I guess what worries me is now I'm stuck with a questionable car. Love the motor and tranny, but some of the body squeaks and loose front make me start to think. I've read several other forums and lots of people complained about tires, front ends, cooling, ... . Might have to, but don't want to hold on to this car for a while.
Thanks for listening.
When it is warm out (usually upper 70's plus) and the car has been driven, then left off for a period of at least 15 minutes (i.e. drive to the store on a warm day), I experience a hard start condition, where the car cranks for 5-10 seconds before slowly starting. Normally, it fires within 1-2 seconds.
The dealer is worthless unless there is a code in the system. I took the car to a trouble shooting mechanic. Based on the symptoms, the likely guess was a pressure regulator (fuel system losing pressure when the car is turned off). When it is hot, a vapor condition would make it more difficult for the car to build up pressure.
He tested the car and found that is was losing pressure when off, so we had the pressure regulator replaced.
The problem still exists. The mechanic stated that the pressure test following the new regulator was fine.
I have already had the temperature sensor replaced previously, which was bad and caused a starting problem if the car sat for a week or so. The dealer could find this because the system detected the problem.
The alternate possibilities, I am told, are the fuel pump (which is expensive) and the ignition module (in which the car would probably not start at all if it had a problem).
Has anyone experienced a similar problem or have any thoughts on this one?
Your mechanic had I think a half-good idea there, but really the possibility of a "vapor-lock" in a modern fuel injected car is so remote that my confidence in the mechanic's diagnosis is diminished somewhat.
Why don't you try this. Change your fuel filter, just in case.
Have you ever had a compression test on this engine? With 90K miles, a drop in compression would certainly affect hot starts. Does the engine feel as strong as ever, pulling up hills, etc.?
One experiment that your mechanic or you could perform is to inject some starting fluid into the intake horn just before a hot start to see if it fires off faster.
RE: SQUEALING SATURN--could be a belt, or could be a defective pulley bearing or idler pulley bearing. You can tell if a belt is slipping by examining the inside of the belt to see if it is glazed and shiny---the slipping sort of burns and buffs it.
I agree about the vapor lock issue. The fuel pressure regulator was losing pressure, but did not solve the problem.
The fuel filter was just changed at the 90k scheduled maintenance and I run injection cleaner every other oil change.
I have not done a compression test, but the engine performs and can pull the hills - as well as a small 4-cyl can.
The thing is that the problem is intermittant - it starts fine more often than not.
Well if indeed we have good fuel delivery and good compression, we have to suspect an electronic component such as the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor (I really don't know this car that well, so I'm not sure how your engine is engineered for ignition.
My car will be illegal to drive in New York State next year unless Saturn can fix the problem. They have had it 11 times on this all dealer maintained car. The problem started at 12990 miles 2 days after warranty and car now has 17600 miles. I may have to give this car away to charity.
Following is a long saga of dealing with P0442 code on a 2000-Saturn
SL2:
Saturn has yet to fix this vehicle with reliability or credibility;
the manufacturer doesn't seem to have the answer, either. Problem
started 2 days after 3-year warranty was up: Last visit, car was in
shop for three days. Car has never been to an outside mechanic.
Notice repeat part replacements on this low mileage car. Come
4/1/2005 this car will not pass inspection in New York State. In
fairness, Saturn has not charged me, but I can't even get another
dealer to take this car as a trade-in.
Any suggestions on what Saturn mechanics failed to do? They claim car
passes pressure tests and smoke tests -- that the car is mechanically
sound -- that there is no leak.
George
Date Miles Part and Part serial number and job
>04-Nov-2002 10622 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
>04-Nov-2002 10622 Connector 12117087 Repair ALDL/DLC/SES
>02-Jun-2003 12875 State Inspecrion
>10-Jun-2003 12996 None No Repair
>17-Jun-2003 13113 Seal-F/PM 21008100 Replace Fuel Pump Seal
>07-Jul-2003 13339 Solenoid, Evap. Emiss. Cannister Purge 10293954 Replaced Valve ASM
>07-Jul-2003 13339 Solenoid, Evap. Emiss. Cannister Purge 21007370 Replaced Tank ASM
>23-Jul-2003 13509 Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor 16238399 Replaced
>11-Aug-2003 13773 Solenoid, Evap. Rmiss. Cannister Purge 21008461 Replaced Solenoid
>16-Sep-2003 14242 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
>21-Oct-2003 14605 Tank ASM 21007370 Replace Fuel Tank
>21-Oct-2003 14605 Cannister 17098073 Replace Fuel Vapor Cannister
>21-Oct-2003 14605 Valve ASM 10293954 Replace Vaklve for Evap. Emiss Cannister Vent Solenoid
>21-Oct-2003 14605 Pump Kit 21015152 Replace in tank Fuel Pump
>06-Jan-2004 15467 Fuel Tank Filler Neck 21008388 Replace fuel tank filler neck
>04-May-2004 16672 Engine Control Module (PCM/ECM) 21025128 Replace Computer
>14-Jun-2004 17217 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
>14-Jun-2004 17217 Fuel Tank Cap 22660002 Replace
>27-Jul-2004 17567 Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor 16238399 Replace
Just a break down of the car, in case it helps:
- 2001 Saturn L300 (V6)
- 120K miles
Q: Do you think I should be 100% responsible for the replacement cost of this failure? AND when I go to trade it in, or sell, how do I explain THREE engines in 4 years to the buyer/sales person?
Joe
I have a 95 SL1 and I have had it for 9 years. For the past 7 years it have been burning oil. I fill it up with 1-2 quarts of oil every 1, 2, or 3 weeks, depending on how much I drive it. They can not find out what is wrong with it. The dipstick is completely black before I am able to get it into it's regularly scheduled 3,000 mile FREE oil change ($7 for the air filter) that I have been receiving for the past 9 years.
PROBLEM 2 SHIFT STUCK IN PARK
NOW I can not get my shift out of park. I can not get my car into the shop into the following weekend because they just went back to work after the 10 week strike. I have been leaving my car in neutral w/ the emergency brake on with the key in the ignition in my garage. Otherwise I am risking not being able to make it to my destinations. Is anyone else having this problem?
I WILL NEVER EVER PURCHASE ANOTHER SATURN!
Re the shifter, they like to break just above the support for the Park - Reverse detent. Shifter repair is possible but requires labour intensive disassembly, welding of the lever, and reassembly. Better to find a used shifter assembly in a recycling yard.
The alternator is a very common problem with some of GM midsize vehicles. I thought GM had re-designed the alternator a couple of years ago. The new one should be in your 2004 L. I would keep pushing the service department on this issue. The only way to fix this problem is a new, re-designed alternator.
If they continue ignoring the problem, start writing letters up the food chain, eg District manager, Regional Manager, then corporate. If no luck there then get a lawyer and push for a buy back. Do a search in in the Saturn and Oldsmobile forums and you'll find a ton of compaints like yours. Some have been solved with a buy back of the vehilce or a new alternator.
Good luck.
My brother's old SL1 saturn (1996 or so) which provided a durable car, was the reason I considered the ION in 2003. The service at two dealers was bad and the cars themselves (first one had to be replaced within a month), while good freeway cruisers, had every ION problem referred to in this forum.
Now supposedly Saturn wants to go UPSCALE. With what? Are they trying to become another Volkswagen or Mercedes (technically clever, unique cars that are some of the least reliable in the world) ? If so, goooooooooooooood luck!
Good passing on hills, though, for its size. And little wind noise or vibration on freeways.
Right before I made my purchase, I read these incredibly helpful discussion threads.
#1 - I asked about the quick wear the tires may have and was told that it was the brand of Firestone tires that were sold standard with the car. The mechanic at Saturn told me to get a different Firestone tire or go with Michelin and I shouldn't have a problem with quick wear. We'll see, but I'm optimistic.
#2 - I also had trouble starting my car yesterday afternoon after I came home from work. I thought I had possibly flooded it. My husband tried starting it again this morning and when it didn't start he called our Saturn dealer. The mechanic asked him several questions and walked him through a checklist for the car and then finally asked how much gas I had in my tank. I had a little less than a quarter of a tank of gas. The mechanic then wanted to know if my car was parked on a steep hill. Our driveway has a very, very slight incline (maybe 10 degrees). It was parked pointing up the hill. The mechanic said that for this particular model, anything less (yes, even slight) than a quarter of a tank of gas on a small hill will cause the car to think it's out of gas. I guess the floater in the tank is extra sensitive? On the good side, I'll never run out of gas and always have over a quarter of a tank at least. OR if I have to park on a hill, I'll park with my nose pointing downward.
Not a huge issues, but I thought rather helpful.
Anyone else have this problem? They did offer me 3 free oil changes, which I suppose will be of comfort the next time we're stranded on the highway ...
I have a 1994 Satuen SL2. My problem with this car is, the horn. It doesn't do it all of the time, but when I am driving the horn will go off for no reason.
At times it will stick and others it is just does it three short blasts.
Any ideas?
I disabled the horn because I have been getting funny looks from the local police here.... LOL
-Annie
I will replace my battery (still original battery) this weekend to see if this solves the problem. The battery is chepaer then an alternator.