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Saturn Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Were your plug wires changed? If not, the sparks could be arching between them and causing the hesitation. I can't remember whether your car has a distributor or not, but if it does, the cap could be cracked and causing the hesitation. It could be a problem with the timing chain slipping, but I'm not so sure. It should NOT cost $750 to fix the timing chain. I would pay no more then $400. Hope that helps a little.
  • btealebteale Member Posts: 1
    If the Saturn does have a timing chain, it shouldn't be worn out at 100,000 mi. Timing chains are better than timming belts which need to be changed every 80,000 mi. I know the plugs in my Saturn SL1 foul every 20-30,000 miles. I would bet the plugs or wires are bad. The Saturn has no way for you or the mechanic to change the timming, it is all computer controlled.

    Have fun,
    Brad
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Saturn engines use a timing chain. It's common for the chain guides to fail before 100,000 miles. The spark plug fouling is usually due to seized oil rings.
  • davedave1davedave1 Member Posts: 45
    for a little more detal on the timing chain issue you have.
    As a 93 SW2 owner, I haven't changed the chain yet, but it can fail prior to 100k, even though many go to 150k. Oil changes are crucial in the 3-4k mile range to max chain life.
    You didn't say if your mechanic was at a saturn dealer. I don't think timing chain is an issue for out of spec timing, so I wonder if your issue is really a timing problem at all; there's a tensioner that takes up wear and stretch of the chain until it's too far out and then the chain has to be replaced; usually timing chain NOISE (rattling sounds) is the first indicator of a problem. If the chain breaks it will damage the valves so be sure on this point.
    Quotes for a chain at saturn dealers in my area have been in the 600-650 range.
    Wrong plugs in saturns can cause problems and a host of other things can also (egr, engine temperature sensor, etc.) all much cheaper than a timing chain.
    Check the www.saturnfans.com site forums doing a keyword search for info on what you're interested in getting help with - lots of smart folks there to point you in the right direction!!>>>> Good Luck
  • olddawgolddawg Member Posts: 3
    I have 2 Saturns, a 95 SL2 and a 96 SL2. Both have over 80k miles and burn oil at the rate of about 1 quart every 3000 miles. The Saturn website says that this is normal. Does anyone have any experience with this? It sure wasn't normal in any of my other cars.
  • davedave1davedave1 Member Posts: 45
    I have a 93sw2 and it has burned at least 3/4 quart in 3000 miles since day 1. I took it back under warranty, and the dealer did a check finding that in 2000 miles it didn't change enough to warrant engine work. Oddly enough, when I use valvoline it consumes less than other brands.
    Some owners have experienced even greater consumption, so you shouldn't feel bad about this; this is about a quart per change.
    It is also a good idea to keep your oil level up on the dip stick too; don't let it get too low before adding. The saturn engines use a timing chain [not a rubber timing belt] that needs good lubrication to have a long life.

    The saturnfans site will give you more information; see message 5.
  • mharamhara Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 SW2, 45k miles. We recently switched to Quaker State synthetic oil, and it's consuming oil at an alarming rate: about 3 1/2 quarts in a little over 1000 miles. I've taken it two places and no one can find any leaks, and it doesn't *seem* to be burning it (no smell or smoke or anything). The last mechanic did a pretty thorough check and didn't find anything. I think I'm going to go back to regular oil and see if that fixes it, but I'm wondering if anyone has any other ideas.

    On a possibly related topic, the "Service Engine Soon" light has been coming on as well -- again, since we switched to synthetic. The mechanic said the code indicated a misfire in the fourth cylinder and an emissions code (I don't know what). Any relation?

    Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Saturn oil consumption is usually caused by the oil rings seized in their grooves in the pistons, combined with taper in the cylinder walls. New pistons, rings, and hone the block. Won't smoke because the catalytic converter runs so hot it burns off all the oil. The misfire is probably due to a defective spark plug wire. Mist the wires with a salt water solution and look for the arcing.
  • greenslgreensl Member Posts: 1
    We have a 96 SL2 and it started burning over one quart per thousand miles around $75,000. Our local dealer and the factory rep agreed to rebuild the engine for warranty cost and we only pay 1/2 of that. Did not even buy the car there. The first time they did everything but bore the cylinders. Did not fix. We are scheduled for boring and oversized pistons next week. Only paying $200 for our share of that and problem should be fixed. I can't say enough about Saturn pleasing the customer because we were 35,000 miles over warranty!! Never showed blue smoke or leaks on the garage floor.
  • 4346943469 Member Posts: 2
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    with 43k miles on it, my friends 2000 LS1's AC compressor seized up. the belt broke shortly after. The service center is saying that it'll cost $850 for the new compressor. They say the clutch (AC) is shot as well from the compressor siezing up. Does any of this sound suspicious... it sounds kind'a to me. It's Saturn of Bordentown in NJ.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the compressor seized up it could turn out worse than that---the debris from a seized compression could contaminate the entire A/C system, repquiring replacements of dryer and condenser and cleaning out of all lines.

    Compressor seizing is a bad thing to let happen. I'm surprised there was no warning noises for a few weeks prior, but you never know...

    Let us know, but I think this is going to be a pretty expensive repair for your friend unfortunately.
  • tjohn12tjohn12 Member Posts: 2
    I just got a letter yesterday offering to "exchange" my 2000 L-Series 4-door for any 2004 Saturn, within the next 4 days! They need to fulfill a "special used vehicle request". What is that? Sounds like a buy back for some sort of lemon flavored catastrophe looming large in Saturn's future. I've read some depressing remarks from 2000 L-Series owners (Tires, Alignment, Cooling System, Sensors, Ignition, etc). Is it really that bad? This is my 3rd Saturn, the first two were an SL2 and SC2, both 1996. Loved them. Should I sell ASAP? [tjohn12@verizon.net]
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's a sucker play to deal your used car in and buy a new one.
  • tjohn12tjohn12 Member Posts: 2
    I tend to agree. The words "Buy back ..." were in the letter, so I called on the slim chance that they would buy the car. No deal. Strictly "come on down ..." and trade-in.

    I guess what worries me is now I'm stuck with a questionable car. Love the motor and tranny, but some of the body squeaks and loose front make me start to think. I've read several other forums and lots of people complained about tires, front ends, cooling, ... . Might have to, but don't want to hold on to this car for a while.

    Thanks for listening.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's a little soon to bail out of the car in terms of depreciation, etc. Usually around 80K miles or just under is a good time if you are worried. That's when major things start to happen. And being under 100K, you can still sell it to someone.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    I have a 97 SL2 (DOHC) with 90k miles which has been extremely reliable and cost efficient. I have been having an intermittent starting problem which I am hoping somebody can shed some light on:

    When it is warm out (usually upper 70's plus) and the car has been driven, then left off for a period of at least 15 minutes (i.e. drive to the store on a warm day), I experience a hard start condition, where the car cranks for 5-10 seconds before slowly starting. Normally, it fires within 1-2 seconds.

    The dealer is worthless unless there is a code in the system. I took the car to a trouble shooting mechanic. Based on the symptoms, the likely guess was a pressure regulator (fuel system losing pressure when the car is turned off). When it is hot, a vapor condition would make it more difficult for the car to build up pressure.

    He tested the car and found that is was losing pressure when off, so we had the pressure regulator replaced.

    The problem still exists. The mechanic stated that the pressure test following the new regulator was fine.

    I have already had the temperature sensor replaced previously, which was bad and caused a starting problem if the car sat for a week or so. The dealer could find this because the system detected the problem.

    The alternate possibilities, I am told, are the fuel pump (which is expensive) and the ignition module (in which the car would probably not start at all if it had a problem).

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem or have any thoughts on this one?
  • jreasejrease Member Posts: 14
    My '91 SL2 with 170000 miles started screaming a high pitched squeal on the highway today. Sounds like the belt, or when power steering fluid is low. The fluid is fine and the car is handling fine. But it did that off-and-on traveling home. Very loud! Right now, sitting in my garage, it does that when I simply startup. Sound like a slipping belt or something to anyone? I'm an extreme novice, but it seems to have something to do with that. If so, what can be done, if anything, myself? I plan to get it to the dealer or other mechanic tomorrow.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    RE: Hot start-- well, you have what we call a "heat-soak" starting problem, meaning that sometehing doesn't like just sitting there and getting warm from the engine heat with no fan running to cool it.

    Your mechanic had I think a half-good idea there, but really the possibility of a "vapor-lock" in a modern fuel injected car is so remote that my confidence in the mechanic's diagnosis is diminished somewhat.

    Why don't you try this. Change your fuel filter, just in case.

    Have you ever had a compression test on this engine? With 90K miles, a drop in compression would certainly affect hot starts. Does the engine feel as strong as ever, pulling up hills, etc.?

    One experiment that your mechanic or you could perform is to inject some starting fluid into the intake horn just before a hot start to see if it fires off faster.

    RE: SQUEALING SATURN--could be a belt, or could be a defective pulley bearing or idler pulley bearing. You can tell if a belt is slipping by examining the inside of the belt to see if it is glazed and shiny---the slipping sort of burns and buffs it.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    Thanks for the input.

    I agree about the vapor lock issue. The fuel pressure regulator was losing pressure, but did not solve the problem.

    The fuel filter was just changed at the 90k scheduled maintenance and I run injection cleaner every other oil change.

    I have not done a compression test, but the engine performs and can pull the hills - as well as a small 4-cyl can.

    The thing is that the problem is intermittant - it starts fine more often than not.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The intermittents are always the damnest problems...you don't know whether it is based on ambient conditions or whether it is a component or a combo of both.

    Well if indeed we have good fuel delivery and good compression, we have to suspect an electronic component such as the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor (I really don't know this car that well, so I'm not sure how your engine is engineered for ignition.
  • greamergreamer Member Posts: 8
    This was posted on another board. Saturn Tennesee does not help me. Dealer knows nothing. Can anyone help me?

    My car will be illegal to drive in New York State next year unless Saturn can fix the problem. They have had it 11 times on this all dealer maintained car. The problem started at 12990 miles 2 days after warranty and car now has 17600 miles. I may have to give this car away to charity.
    Following is a long saga of dealing with P0442 code on a 2000-Saturn
    SL2:

    Saturn has yet to fix this vehicle with reliability or credibility;
    the manufacturer doesn't seem to have the answer, either. Problem
    started 2 days after 3-year warranty was up: Last visit, car was in
    shop for three days. Car has never been to an outside mechanic.
    Notice repeat part replacements on this low mileage car. Come
    4/1/2005 this car will not pass inspection in New York State. In
    fairness, Saturn has not charged me, but I can't even get another
    dealer to take this car as a trade-in.

    Any suggestions on what Saturn mechanics failed to do? They claim car
    passes pressure tests and smoke tests -- that the car is mechanically
    sound -- that there is no leak.

    George

    Date Miles Part and Part serial number and job

    >04-Nov-2002 10622 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
    >04-Nov-2002 10622 Connector 12117087 Repair ALDL/DLC/SES
    >02-Jun-2003 12875 State Inspecrion
    >10-Jun-2003 12996 None No Repair
    >17-Jun-2003 13113 Seal-F/PM 21008100 Replace Fuel Pump Seal
    >07-Jul-2003 13339 Solenoid, Evap. Emiss. Cannister Purge 10293954 Replaced Valve ASM
    >07-Jul-2003 13339 Solenoid, Evap. Emiss. Cannister Purge 21007370 Replaced Tank ASM
    >23-Jul-2003 13509 Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor 16238399 Replaced
    >11-Aug-2003 13773 Solenoid, Evap. Rmiss. Cannister Purge 21008461 Replaced Solenoid
    >16-Sep-2003 14242 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
    >21-Oct-2003 14605 Tank ASM 21007370 Replace Fuel Tank
    >21-Oct-2003 14605 Cannister 17098073 Replace Fuel Vapor Cannister
    >21-Oct-2003 14605 Valve ASM 10293954 Replace Vaklve for Evap. Emiss Cannister Vent Solenoid
    >21-Oct-2003 14605 Pump Kit 21015152 Replace in tank Fuel Pump
    >06-Jan-2004 15467 Fuel Tank Filler Neck 21008388 Replace fuel tank filler neck
    >04-May-2004 16672 Engine Control Module (PCM/ECM) 21025128 Replace Computer
    >14-Jun-2004 17217 PCM Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 21025106 Replace
    >14-Jun-2004 17217 Fuel Tank Cap 22660002 Replace
    >27-Jul-2004 17567 Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor 16238399 Replace
  • crbcrb Member Posts: 10
    I have recently had problems (well, I've always had problems with the car, but these are ongoing) starting my saturn. It cranks and cranks and won't turn over. I had this happen back in April, and they replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Then it started a couple weeks ago and they replaced the "crankshaft position sensor" to the tune of $200! That did basically nothing. now they have no real idea, only that it might be the ignition cylinder which would cost $400 to fix. has anyone else run into a problem like this?

    Just a break down of the car, in case it helps:
    - 2001 Saturn L300 (V6)
    - 120K miles
  • kzumbahlenkzumbahlen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ion 3 Quad Coupe and had a few minor problems with it. The front fog light help moisture, which Satun gladly fixed and now the paint on the driver side has started to chip off. I don't park next to people in parking lots and I don't open my doors up into other peoples cars. The paint chips are small but they are all down the door. Anyone else had this problem?
  • deputy53deputy53 Member Posts: 1
    OK! give me your opinion on this one: have a 2000 LS-1 81,000 and change on odometer. 1st engine locked up at 20,000 and change. Cause: main bearing failure on crankshaft. Saturn DID replace under warranty! 2nd engine gone at less than 62,000 miles on it. Cause: Timing chain broke on Interstate- valve's and piston's met-end of engine! Now, Saturn wants $5,000 for a NEW engine installed! I use Castrol Syntec oil, and change it and filter every 3K.(My father was a mechanic-taught me importance of filters and maintenance.)
    Q: Do you think I should be 100% responsible for the replacement cost of this failure? AND when I go to trade it in, or sell, how do I explain THREE engines in 4 years to the buyer/sales person?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's usually not the timing chain that breaks. The nylon rubbing blocks on the chain guides wear out, allowing too much slack in the chain. The chain jumps a few teeth and the rest is history. If it lets go at low speed it's usually just a matter of pulling the head and replacing all the bent exhaust valves. If it jumps at high speed there might be piston damage. Common Saturn problem.
  • jschaferjschafer Member Posts: 1
    There is a Service Bulletin concerning this problem and recommends that the computer need to be re-programmed. I had the same problem, and this is what the service tech said was needed. Hope this helps.

                                 Joe
  • needabeatneedabeat Member Posts: 2
    I have had a 95 SL1 going on 9 years now. It have been burning oil for the past 7 years. The dealership can not find out why it is burning oil. I have been putting 10W 30 in it every week or two or three, depending on how much I drive it. They seem to not be able to come up with any solution. I recently have been having trouble getting the shift out of park, any problems with that?
  • needabeatneedabeat Member Posts: 2
    PROBLEM 1 BURNING OIL

    I have a 95 SL1 and I have had it for 9 years. For the past 7 years it have been burning oil. I fill it up with 1-2 quarts of oil every 1, 2, or 3 weeks, depending on how much I drive it. They can not find out what is wrong with it. The dipstick is completely black before I am able to get it into it's regularly scheduled 3,000 mile FREE oil change ($7 for the air filter) that I have been receiving for the past 9 years.

    PROBLEM 2 SHIFT STUCK IN PARK

    NOW I can not get my shift out of park. I can not get my car into the shop into the following weekend because they just went back to work after the 10 week strike. I have been leaving my car in neutral w/ the emergency brake on with the key in the ignition in my garage. Otherwise I am risking not being able to make it to my destinations. Is anyone else having this problem?
    I WILL NEVER EVER PURCHASE ANOTHER SATURN!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, if your oil is getting dirty fast you have blow-by from the combustion chamber into the crankcase. Worn rings probably.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Not sure who "they" are but any tech familiar with Saturns knows both problems well. #1 cause of Saturn oil consumption is the oil rings seized in their grooves in the pistons, especially in old single cam engines. The compression rings aren't affected so a compression test shows normal. A soak in GM Top Engine Cleaner as per instructions *might* free up the rings, otherwise it's a teardown with at least new rings but probably a rebore and new pistons.

    Re the shifter, they like to break just above the support for the Park - Reverse detent. Shifter repair is possible but requires labour intensive disassembly, welding of the lever, and reassembly. Better to find a used shifter assembly in a recycling yard.
  • ifionlynewifionlynew Member Posts: 1
    The headlights and interior lights on my NEW 2004 with 4125 miles on the car began to give problems. I would be driving down the road and the lights almost go out. They dim so much that it is impossible to drive at night with any confidence. It was almost as if the alternator was going out. I took it to the Saturn dealer and they immediately gave me a letter from Saturn saying that this was NORMAL????? This is my second Saturn and I have never seen this before. The excuse was an electrical transient current passes through the car. And this was supposed to make me feel better? I have an electrical current that is randomly traveling through the car and they have no clue as to how to fix it, so they claim that it is normal. Buyer Beware. The GM dealer said that this was a safety issue and needed attention, but he wasn’t a certified Saturn dealer so his opinion didn’t count. Saturn offered me a 50K warranty for free, but if it isn’t broken then how is a warranty going to help? I read a similar issue on Edmonds the other day, so this seems to be a repeating issue. Saturn needs to fix the problem rather than saying it is normal. But, it is hard to force them to fix what they say is not an issue. I am very disappointed in Saturn and the Dealer for not addressing the problem. I will never buy another Saturn and I would like others to know what I went through before they buy Saturn and get messed over like I did.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Blinkng headlights are not a normal function of the car.

    The alternator is a very common problem with some of GM midsize vehicles. I thought GM had re-designed the alternator a couple of years ago. The new one should be in your 2004 L. I would keep pushing the service department on this issue. The only way to fix this problem is a new, re-designed alternator.

    If they continue ignoring the problem, start writing letters up the food chain, eg District manager, Regional Manager, then corporate. If no luck there then get a lawyer and push for a buy back. Do a search in in the Saturn and Oldsmobile forums and you'll find a ton of compaints like yours. Some have been solved with a buy back of the vehilce or a new alternator.

    Good luck.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    Not sure what is going on but noted Consumers Reports now claims Ion's are below average and Vues' way below average wrt reliability. What happened to Saturn QC ? Factories too old? Production volume too high ? A few folks have had good luck with theirs - is that an oddity?

    My brother's old SL1 saturn (1996 or so) which provided a durable car, was the reason I considered the ION in 2003. The service at two dealers was bad and the cars themselves (first one had to be replaced within a month), while good freeway cruisers, had every ION problem referred to in this forum.

    Now supposedly Saturn wants to go UPSCALE. With what? Are they trying to become another Volkswagen or Mercedes (technically clever, unique cars that are some of the least reliable in the world) ? If so, goooooooooooooood luck!
  • saturnsucksaturnsuck Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 ION develops a strange chemical film inside the windshield. It could be from coastal fog here in So. CA. Does any other 2004 ION owner have this problem? The film is not oily in nature, but it is very difficult to clean off the glass,which has me concerned. Also, the A/C unit does not turn all the way off. There is a constant stream of air from the system. This is my mom's car. I think Saturns SUCK.
  • drdavedrdave Member Posts: 4
    I also own a Saturn with the headlight dimming problem. It is a 2001 L200 with 65,000 miles that has always had this problem and 3 different dealers have called this "normal". I have almost been run off the road by semi's thinking that I am flashing my lights at them (thinking that, while passing me on the turnpike, they have successfully cleared my frontend). I am also convinced that it is a bad alternator - specifically the voltage regulator portion that is not reacting fast enough to boost output when a new electrical load starts up - like your radiator fan kicking in. Does anyone have a specific alternator part number that you KNOW fixes this problem? I know the 2002 and 2003 versions still had this problem.
  • ecotec_speederecotec_speeder Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a new 2004 Saturn Ion. Its a great car but i was curious to know some of the problems that I might run into down the road.
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    My experiences: Water leaks in headlights, rattles in dash/doors/roof/rear deck, rough cold starts and idle, abrupt/harsh shifts in/out of third gear.

     

    Good passing on hills, though, for its size. And little wind noise or vibration on freeways.
  • davey49davey49 Member Posts: 5
    I don't know if you solved your problem yet. I've heard a few people have resolved this issue by installing an Optima or other high end battery.
  • lee14lee14 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 LS2 model and ever since it passed the 14k I has the air flow sensor (oxygen sensor??) replaced under warranty 3 times. And after the 36k warrenty I started to have majot problems with the saturn. It started to have intermittent electrical problems at 40k and I had the engine control module replaced twice! Each costing over 1k. And I had my window switch replaced and my windshield wiper switch replaced twice!!! I never heard of a window switch breaking nor a wiper switch... Anyways now i have 80k miles on the car and the car has the service light, service engine soon light, and the reduce power light on!!!! This car is costing more than the car it self (bought it for 20k). My saturn was soooooo unreliable. Is there anyway I can get my car repair for free from Saturn or make them buy the unreliable car back?? I'm having problems after problems despite it being out of warrenty it was fixed more than enough times with my money!!!!!!!!
  • pparkerpparker Member Posts: 1
    The SES light on my L-100 has been intermittently on and off for a couple of months. The service tech (not at a Saturn dealership)reset it about a little over a month ago. He said it was an "old" error code and asked whether I filled the tank with the car running. (I do not). The light now stays on and the car has failed emmissions testing for inspection. I'm told they need to remove gas tank to replace a couple of sensors. It's a 2002 with 75, 000 miles. Any suggestions?
  • mrs.amrs.a Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an L300 (2002). I absolutely fell in love with it. When I say "just purchased," I mean, it's one week old to me.

    Right before I made my purchase, I read these incredibly helpful discussion threads.

    #1 - I asked about the quick wear the tires may have and was told that it was the brand of Firestone tires that were sold standard with the car. The mechanic at Saturn told me to get a different Firestone tire or go with Michelin and I shouldn't have a problem with quick wear. We'll see, but I'm optimistic.

    #2 - I also had trouble starting my car yesterday afternoon after I came home from work. I thought I had possibly flooded it. My husband tried starting it again this morning and when it didn't start he called our Saturn dealer. The mechanic asked him several questions and walked him through a checklist for the car and then finally asked how much gas I had in my tank. I had a little less than a quarter of a tank of gas. The mechanic then wanted to know if my car was parked on a steep hill. Our driveway has a very, very slight incline (maybe 10 degrees). It was parked pointing up the hill. The mechanic said that for this particular model, anything less (yes, even slight) than a quarter of a tank of gas on a small hill will cause the car to think it's out of gas. I guess the floater in the tank is extra sensitive? On the good side, I'll never run out of gas and always have over a quarter of a tank at least. OR if I have to park on a hill, I'll park with my nose pointing downward.

    Not a huge issues, but I thought rather helpful.
  • tickedofftickedoff Member Posts: 1
    I OWN A 2002 LW 200 WAGON. I HAVE HAD A COUPLE OF PROBLEMS. THE TAILLIGHTS SOCKETS ARE ALWAYS A PROBLEM IF YOU DO NOT REINSERT PROPERLY WHEN YOU CHANGE A BURNT OUT BULB. THE FRONT TURN SIGNAL IS ALWAYS BLOWING THE BULB. THE BULB DOES NOT BLOW BUT THE BASE BURNS UP. SOCKET NO GOOD? HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE RIGHT FRONT END SINCE FIRST COUPLE OF MONTHS. LOUD BANG WHEN HITTING BUMP (NOT VERY LARGE BUMPS) ALSO LOOSE TRACTION OVER ROUGH PAVEMENT WHEEL BOUNCES BADLY. VIBRATION BEGAN AT HIGH SPEED. THE DEALER CHANGED CONTROL ARM AND SAID MY TIRES WERE BAD BECAUSE I HAD NOT ROTATED THEM ENOUGH. I PUT QUALITY TIRES ON AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL THRE. NOW THE HORN BGAN TOOTING OUT OF NO WHERE AND DOES IT WITH THE CAR OFF. I REPLACE HORN RELAY NO CHANGE. REMOVED HORN. RELAY STIL OPERATES EVEN WITH CAR OFF. NOW AUTO DOOR UNLOCK SWITCH WILL NOT UNLOCK DOOR. VERY HAPPY CAMPER!!!!
  • ohtomaohtoma Member Posts: 28
    The clutch master and slave cylinders have each been replaced once at separate times, then this week the clutch pedal went right to the floor, unfortunately with my wife on the highway. Dealer said it was a defective seal in the master cylinder assembly, however at this point I certainly don't believe it. Fortunately it's under a 50k extended (provided by Saturn due to numerous other issues), unfortunately I only have 1k left!

     

    Anyone else have this problem? They did offer me 3 free oil changes, which I suppose will be of comfort the next time we're stranded on the highway ...
  • annietinaannietina Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

       I have a 1994 Satuen SL2. My problem with this car is, the horn. It doesn't do it all of the time, but when I am driving the horn will go off for no reason.

    At times it will stick and others it is just does it three short blasts.

    Any ideas?

    I disabled the horn because I have been getting funny looks from the local police here.... LOL

    -Annie
  • storm2storm2 Member Posts: 3
    Would like to know more details on the timing chain, how many miles does this happen on a Saturn what makes and years. I have a Saturn LS 2000 4 cylinder 2 cam. Just about 53,500 miles one loan payment to go for February and its mine. And just short of six months of five years warranty was 3/36, looking for help with this problem.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The ones I've run into have had around 120K or so miles on them. There's usually some warning, the chain starts getting noisy as the guides deteriorate and it starts slapping around. Any half decent Saturn tech shuld be able to spot it just by the rattling sound from the timing case.
  • storm2storm2 Member Posts: 3
    Timing chain went dealership will not make good they said its my negligent of not having oil flushed 11 months ago when I brought it in for a recall I had them change the oil and check the left tail light. They claim went I had them change my oil the oil filter was brittle and apart. They wanted to charge me at that time 200. 00 to 300.00 to flush out the oil to make sure there was no piece of filter in the oil at that time only had enough money to pay for the extra I ask them to do. I’ve had the oil change there was no warning nothing drove the car about a mile came home went to start it up the next morning and nothing. And anyone else can contact me by e-mail if the same problem at storm400@aol.com thanks
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    That is a possible solution for the problem. I know that many of the GM midsize cars built in this time frame have had this problem with the dimming lights. I also am having this problem with mmy 2000 Intrigue. Most people on the Intrigue board believe it is the alternator that is the source of the problem. And GM did issue a revised replacement alternaotr for the Intrigue a couple of years ago.

    I will replace my battery (still original battery) this weekend to see if this solves the problem. The battery is chepaer then an alternator.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Sounds like you have a good Saturn service department to work with. To talk you through your problem over the phone is great.
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