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Saturn Maintenance & Repair
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We get split-second 'slipping' (as though it was my old '63 VW manual tranny), during which of course the tach goes from 2000-4000 rpm. The slips occur during gear CHANGES. They are very imtermittent, like 2-4 days apart, not constant. They have happened on straight-ahead driving as well as around corners. They have occurred between all gears, not just at the same spot. I have tried to MAKE it happen by stomping on the gas at various speeds, and while making lots of turns (as if the hydrauics would affect the trans shifting) without luck.
The dealer cannot replicate it either, and says there is no 'entry' on the onboard computer. As far as they know, we're making this up! They have refreshed the 'TMC' software twice, and now my only option is to convince the corporate field service guy (make it slip again!).
Am I alone with this problem?
The engine turns when the ignition key is turned but does not 'catch'. All the lights are bright and the interior displays and lights looked ok. But there doesnt seem to be any spark coming out of any of the spark plugs, which might explain maybe why the car just cut off so instantly with no warning.
Ive heard this could be a problem with the Ignition Module? I am no mechanic and know very little about cars so any advice on what the problem would be much appreciated. All I do know is the battery is in good condition.
Thanks.
Has anyone had this oil mixing with the coolant problem? If so, was it worth fixing, and to the tune of what (estimated) cost? What was the actual cause of the problem, and was it something that could be fixed permanently, or something that was likely to reoccur?
I'm hoping someone out there can give me some info to use when I take my car in to be looked at, so that I can be somewhat informed and make wise decisions.
I'd appreciate any educated and experienced input on this issue. Thanks much!
Can someone help me?
The differance between a LS AND a LS1 is just power stuff like windows and locks.They were not avaible in a Ls.The Ls name was only used for 2000 and 2001 in 2002 it was know as the L100.The Ls1 than became the L200 and Ls2 was the L300.Saturn did away with the Base model in 2002 and in '04 re-named the cars again L300.1,L300.2 AND L300.3.For 2005 the last year of the L car Saturn only offers The L300 with a V-6 engine.I hope this helps you.Good Luck with your new Saturn!
your L series. The dimming is caused by a software
failure a body control module, we have identified
a load dump that is created when the module turns
both radiator fans on high creating a full load dump
on the altenator (GM regulators have always been
slow to react to this) creating a voltage drop out.
The fans will turn on just above 145 degrees as the engine warms up and cycle at random. Don't bother asking the dealers about it, the only thing they will due is replace the module with another oem defective one. General motors corporate admits they have a problem but do not have a clue how to fix it
i have a '94 SC1, and i recently replaced the head gasket due to an oil and coolant leak, at about 82,000 mi. the oil and coolant hadn't mixed together, (it was caught in time luckily), but i still had to replace the head that was leaking nonetheless. the total came to about $1100.
my advice to you is DO NOT DRIVE your car until it is fixed. this is what i was told: if the coolant and oil mixes together, it turns into this nasty whitish waxy substance that gets everywhere inside the engine and takes forever, (and lotsa money) to clean up. since you said your car's oil has mixed with the coolant, you don't want to mess it up even more. plus your engine could overheat which would cause even more damage, or your engine could seize from the oil leaking out which would be very bad too.
you should check out your car's value, (try kbb.com) and if the repair cost is more than the value of your car, you should just scrap it.
my car has had this done once already, (at about 4 years old with the previous owner), and it lasted about 6 years after that until the head gasket had to be replaced again (with me as the owner, obviously). i am hoping it will last me a few more years, or at least until i am out of college, otherwise i probably wouldn't have had it fixed.
anyway, i feel your pain. i've put in close to about $2500 into my car, and i feel like it's practically new with everything i've replaced. and it ran just fine with the previous owner for 9 years, and me 1 1/2.
good luck, and i hope everything turns out okay.
Is there a forum that is just for Relay owners?
Mike
The saturn ION 5spd auto trans has an issue where the trans will flare on the 1-2 upshift when cold only and the 3-4 shift all the time.
The TCM update will fix 80% of these problems but there is a "learn in procedure" that must be performed to finish the job. Any Saturn tech can access this bulletin and perform the learn in. Not performing the learn in procedure will result in bad shifts and customer complaints.
reference these tech bulletin numbers
03-07-30-033 and
03-07-30-052
Have the techs perform this procedure and see if it helps. If you still have a problem, you will need a new Valve body for your trans.
Contact Saturn customer assistance if the local dealer cannot help you.
The crank sensor is tough to reach. (back of engine behind starter) best left to a pro with a lift.
We have a forum that shares the Relay with the Montana and Uplander. Here's the link:
Saturn Relay/Chevy Uplander/ETC Forum
MrShiftright
Host
Thank you,
Mine also died suddenly while driving, mine is just short of 101,000 miles. My 2000 L-series wagon (actually built in 1999), bit it yesterday. All electric was still working and there had been no warning. I'd driven it 150 miles Easter Sunday in the rain and everything was hunky-dory. Same for the Monday commute, 75 miles. No wierd noises, no idiot lights, it just cuts out on Tuesday. I am told it is the timing chain, it slipped and has "done some damage." A polite way of saying "She's dead, Jim!" Since I cannot afford to start over I am going to go for the offered Saturn dealership replacement engine (34,000mi) with a 1 year warranty. Is there anything thing I should be wary about in doing this (besides the 4 grand price tag?). I own it, and thought it had another 4 or 5 years in it. Good maintenance, new brakes pads, second set of tires. All the best for my baby so I feel a bit betrayed....
The log I did revealed the issue clearly on my car. Drive it from a cold start and without fail the lights will flicker between 7 & 10 minutes out, but no more after that. Sometimes 2 or three times in that "bout".
HOWEVER, Start the car and drive from a cold start, then after about 2 minutes turn it off for about a minute and restart, and the car will not flicker the lights.
I've heard that changing the battery, and possibly the alternator, will do the trick...
...
This is assuming that the transmission fluid is full. Low fluid can cause the exact same thing.
Timing belt alignment,Compression, Cyllinder leakdown, injector Ohms, injector balance, fuel pressure, I swapped spark plugs, ignition coil, entire upper plenum (injectors and all), Called T.A.C. 3 times and was lost. I found that spraying brake cleaner onto intake spacer near #1 caused the fuel trim to spike to -25% in both banks. Thinking I found it I swapped the plenum spacer with a used but good one, (Ihave a junk motor that swallowed water that I'm swapping parts out of) After replacing the spacer the misfire was still there but the fuel trim was spiked at +25% !!! It wouldn't come down. I cleared codes, still high. I disconnected the battery and shorted the cables together to clear the long term memory and still it was the same. Then I sprayed brake clean into the same area, the fuel trim came down to -25% again, then leveled off to 0%, then the misfire went away and wouldn't come back for me. I drove it 10 miles, it ran perfectly. I started Vacation the next day and left the car with a fellow tech to drive home to see what could have possibly happened. I'm not convinced that it's fixed. I was burned out from taking the plenum off so many times and the day was over.
Has anyone else seen this?
I can't really remember what the dealer said the problem was when the car was jerking when increasing speed - a relay I think. It was under warranty then so they covered it. But right after they fixed that it started jerking when decreasing speed and things went crazy like the service engine soon light went on and the overheating gage light went on and I can't remember what else, but then they said it was the "brain" or something that had to be replaced. I don't know, I mean I bought a new car so I wouldn't have to have these service problems. I'm so sick of this car.
Oh, also the airbag light is on pretty frequently - since I bought the car actually. Dealer says they can never find anything wrong. I don't know if this has to do with any of the other things, or the current one anyway.
I also had the charging system checked at AutoZone using their machine that hooks to the battery terminals. Their test WILL NOT pick up the problem with the alternator. Take it to a mechanic and have them do a check on the charging system. The service manager at the shop I had my car inspected said they missed a lot of problems when they tested the charging system with this machine. They have a different way to test which is more complicated and yields better results. I'm sure others in this forum can explain the process better technically. It cost me $40 to have the charging system analyzed.
If the problem persists, which I am sure it will when the battery begins to lose its power, I'll dropp the $600 to have the alternator replaced. Until then, things seem "acceptable" for now.
If your vehicle is still under warranty, do not accept that "they are made like this" excuse. If it was not like this when you drove off the lot, it is not acceptable!!!! I would call the service manager again and ask them to fix it. If he/she gives you the same response, ask them to put that in writing since you don't want to misinterpret their words when you call the regional manager. If the regional manager gives you the same song and dance, ask for his response in writing as well so when you call the local TV station, you don't want his words misinterpretted. Then call the district manager and so on. make sure you record all conversations and get names and titles.
Please remember that this is a safety issue as well as a major annoyance to other drivers. ONe person on this forum almost run off the road by a truck who thought he flashed his lights for him to get back over to the lanes.
Also go to the NHTSA web site and file a complaint. have your VIN number handy. Enough complaints will trigger an investigation by the NHTSA. GM does not need anymore investigations.
good luck with your vehicle.
If it happens only when hot, then the valve body will require replacement and the end cover will have to come off so the Input and out put shaft nuts can be replaced.
The Valve body (If previously replaced) comes with a 12 month 12K mile warranty from saturn so the repair may be covered under warranty.
A few years ago, Saturn started to factory rebuild the valve bodys and also the partial valve bodies. This began a world of problems for us tech's because we get something like a 50% failure rate right out of the box with these things. Be sure you use a Saturn dealer to make any repairs to your Transmission, otherwise the tech will replace the piece, still have a problem and then condemn the transmission. The most common issue with these re-man valve bodys is a bad actuator bus-plate that loses connection at the main line pressure actuator. While buzzing the actuator, you can wiggle the connector and actually get the actuator to shut off.
Sorry, you can only do the test with a tech2 scanner at the dealer.
Hope this helps.
p.s. the partial valve bodys have been discontinued.