Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

wnewell · July 2003

rcaston where can I find this online petition?

wn.

montanafan · July 2003

1995-1998 GM cars with the 3.8L non-supercharged V6 engine can have a coolant leak caused by upper intake manifold degradation. Over time EGR gases heat the upper intake manifold causeing degradation of the material near a coolant passage (near the throttle body). The coolant will start to leak into the manifold. This condition is noticed by the loss of coolant in the overfill tank. If no other sources of coolant loss or leak are found, this condition could be the cause. Eventually given enough time the leak increases in size and volume. The lower intake manifold gets filled with coolant. The final stage would be coolant getting into a cylinder and hydrolocking it. The repair is to replace the lower intake manifold and upper intake manifold. Costs are about $900 plus what ever other additional repairs are done. Sometimes this can occur before 70,000 miles (California & Other states warranty limit), but people who have this happen usually report mileage between 90,000 and 125,000.

imidazol97 · July 2003

On 98 LeSabre occured at 70K: friends 98 Bonnie, 50K.
Had seen small loss of coolant over a few months before
even in cold weather. Had smelled coolant but couldn't find
leak one time at very slow, driving on mountain road in
Gatlinburg, with engine showing higher temp than normal
which turned on coolant fans.

Someone had put links on this or Bonneville group showing
pics of old vs new lower (metal part) of intake manifolds which
were replacements.

scraj · July 2003

90k miles. Teal.
Took car for 90k service. Same dealer and same service person for the past 6+ years.

Was told that one of the rear shocks are leaking. They replaced them with Monroe shocks since GM had discontinued the electronic shocks which can be controlled using the Perform Ride and Normal Ride buttons next to the shift lever. Did anyone else go through this one? The shocks got so stiff in a couple of hours, i felt that i was drving an empty u-haul truck..jumping all over the road. Went back to the dealer. Was told the monroe's shocks rubber had gone back into the shock and twisted itself. They showed me the shocks and the damaged line on the rubber. They said the compressor for inflating the shocks or whatever is not working fine and needs replacing. I told them that it was fine till you diagnosed that the shock had started to leak. I did not find any symptoms in the past 7 years. They replaced the shocks with new monroe shocks and it seems ok now. The ride command switches are disabled now. I can live with that.
At the same time, the radio quit on me. If i rotate the knob the volume would come up, but, would die down gradually in a few seconds. Asked in outside shops for aftermarket. They said the steering wheel controls will not work with any aftermarket radios. So, asked the dealer. They said that they would put in a refurbished piece for $375. (The stereo with a single CD player and manual equalizers - exactly the same as my previoius one - i had no issues with that). Done. And, now, the stereo holds the volume for AM radio. But, for FM radio and the CDs, the volume would increase automatically from the begining and the radio would quit after some time.Took it to the dealer. They said it was the amplifier problem and ordered a new one. Yesterday i was told to come over and get the new amp. Yesterday evening i was told that when they connect the new AMP it still does the same thing. But when they disconnect the amp, the stereo works fine. I checked and it seems to be true. They said that PONTIAC has information about the stereo,but, they do not have any specific information about the amp. There is a seperate Music/Base gain knob below the stereo (A 5 inch long plastic plate with a moveable knob) which increases the base. That one does not work without the amp. The dealership said that they have to field test to figure out what is going on and they (and i) have to wait till they can locate any bonny with the same kind of stereo and base gain moveable knob below the stereo. Too much time and frustration for a problem that looks so silly. Any information on this issue will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the really long post.

1badsidekick · July 2003

My parents have a '93 SSEi with the exact same radio as you're mentioning here. It has the manual equalizer controls and the gain slider control right under the stereo. The FM band on this radio has seen better days, and it will barely pick up anything anymore. The CD player quit working correctly 2 years ago, and the power antenna died in the up position about 4 years ago. The buttons on the steering wheel to control the radio now only half function, it feels like the buttons have slipped off the contact patch below, but not sure. They were going to trade off the bonny about a month ago, only to find that the dealer could only give them $2,000 for it trade in. Mom said "it's worth more than that to me, I'll keep driving it." It now has about 110k on it.

imidazol97 · July 2003

They might do better selling it individually.
Lots of 92-95 Bonnevilles and LeSabres in our area
are showing up in the hands of owners who put what looks like $2000 worth of chrome wheels on them and all kinds of customization. Probably their own radio which makes the radio problem
void.

If it's been an import honda or toyota I probably would have been facing some major expense for maintainence and would have spent a fortune at dealer on 30k checkups required and had a sludge problem or trans problem.

But I had little expense out of the 93. Lots of little irritations with things that didn't work part of the time -- had ground problem with connection at left of driver's seat under carpet. but had changed spark wires with original equipment at 120K for second time.
That group of car is good for 150K plus with good care in the past. Engine and trans were great on car I traded with 150K on it. Car acted good for 200K. My wife made me trade it. She got a Crimson Red LeSabre... with chrome wheels and Michelins. She twisted my arm. But I still miss the green 93.

1badsidekick · July 2003

I was told of a common problem with the 92-95 bonnevilles that was transmission related. We also know someone who has a '92 SSEi and had to replace the engine a few years ago. So far this one has been pretty good, but it hasn't been without problems by far. It has required a new alternator every 20k-40k miles, the latest only lasting 8 months. Put on in August of '02, replaced in May of '03. We were wise and bought from Adanvanced Auto Parts, with a lifetime warranty. Now I just walk in with original receipt in hand, and walk out with a new alternator. Thank god it's easy to get to! Other problems have been several water pumps, a starter, lots of electrical issues like malfunctioning power door locks, windows and the like, plus about 30k miles ago the ABS/Traction light came on, and I think it's sensor related. Besides all of that, it rides and drives very smoothly, and is very comfortable. It is also by far the "nicest" vehicle my parents have ever had.

imidazol97 · July 2003

Re the Bonnie locks and windows. Pull up the carpet beside the drivers seat next to the door. You should find a boxed in area with the grounds from the dash area coming together for commond ground ( I think it's G200 on the schematics ).
Tighten and clean those so they make good contact. I was told that will fix the problems coming from dash like AC manual style control cutting in and out, door locks not working at times, windows may ground there too.

I looked it up in my 93 lesabre manual but traded the car before I got around to working on the box.

What's the common trans problem that 92-95s have?

1badsidekick · July 2003

I've heard of several people who have had to replace the tranny completely. I don't know exactly what the problem was, but it was fatal to the trans.

8sparks6 · July 2003

I used to be active in Town Hall, but lost my password, changed ISPs and could never log in. I've re-registered and hope to participate a bit (lurk mostly) once again. I have a '93 Bonneville that was parked for a few years. I just put it thru the shop for belts/hoses/fluids and anything else it needed, plus new tires, a couple of months ago. I turned 28,000 miles on it last week. I have had a noise since it was new and am hoping someone can point me to a solution. When accelerating from a standstill, I get a clunk that seems to come from the rear of the car, sounds like maybe from the rear suspension. I vaguely recall something about a TSB on this ??? It's a nice car and a joy to drive - and I expect it will be even better once it's broken in ;-)
Charlie

ayrat · July 2003

Drove from nj to az my 1992 SE. Stuck in Denver, CO, as bearings/inserts, reportedly broken. Got knocking noise from the engine...Was suggested to look for another car here, rather than fixing it (replacing engine with junk one plus labor $1,500 plus no guarantee it will run), perhaps will look for used import pickup truck. Anyone willing to purchase it for parts here in Colorado? Original Aluminium wheels and BFGoodRich tires(20K only) , almost new OEM windshield, just replaced brake booster with rebuilt one, cranksensor 1 month ago, oxygen too. Clean interior, nice chairs. Let me know. Dent in the driver's door and cracked LH mirror. It was a comfortable car...

scylark · July 2003

Intermittently on normal turns, and or hard acceleration/braking I hear a popping sound that sounds like its coming from multiple areas, i.e. pillar between doors on drivers side, shock area on drivers side, and middle of the rear end. I have had it in several times and nothing turns up wrong. It is not an interior noise as I have taken the trunk and most of the back seat area apart, and it still does it. I can not reproduce the sound when the car is sitting still. I saw a similar post in message 534. Any answers? This is a 2002 Bonneville SE.

idntnvu · July 2003

Hi all, "the user formerly known as 1badsidekick" here...the parent's '93 SSEi is having a fit again. My mom took it to Gatlinburg TN this past weekend, and on the way up into the mountains, it overheated, and wouldn't start again for a while. She finally got it restarted, and didn't drive it the rest of the time they were up there. She and her sister got in it to come home yesterday, and the thing was heating all the way home (about 4 hours, 230 miles). She kept the climate control on 90 the whole way, and considering the temperature outside was 87, they were a little warm. Now, the question is, what is causing this? The fans at the radiator seemed to work intermittantly, but they did work. I know the engine has to reach a certain temp before they kick in. What else could this be? Thermostat? Water pump? Any help is appreciated. I'm going to try to get it to the garage today for them, but I'd like to get it in there and halfway know what to expect, rather than going in there with a blindfold on. (Even though the mechanics at our garage are good, they tend to "throw parts" at the problem, rather than knowing immediately what it is.) Any advice??

chevydude2 · July 2003

Got a '98 Bonneville SE -- great car -- 135M and minimal problems -- still gets 28-30 MPG on the highway... Guy that works for me had his car vandalized the other night -- kids put SAND in his tranny fill tube, gas tank and Oil fill pipe -- All while his ALARM was set... So, I checked the factory alarm in my Bonneville .. armed it with the drivers window down and reached in and OPENED THE HOOD and never set off the alarm. Any idea on a fix? Could a local car alarm shop install a hot switch on the hood that would tie in with the factory alarm?? Try yours and see what it does...I was AMAZED...

mlm4 · July 2003

The factory alarm is intended to be a theft deterrent system, not a vandalism deterrent system. All it does is lock out the ignition system and honk the horn when someone forcibly opens a cabin door. An alarm shop could install a better system with motion sensors, glass break sensors, and switches for the hood and trunk, etc.

daver9 · July 2003

my 2001 has developed bare spots at the bottomcorner near the rear door closing. I thought it was weird becuse both sides were the same. car has only 30k on it.
  I talked to someone who has the same yr and his was the same. He is getting his repaired by the same dealer that I bought mine from. They told him all he had to do was pu on the pontiac "mud" flaps and they would paint that area. they told him they had several people complain that there bonneville was doingt the same.
  I called the dealer and they said, at first, We have not heard anything about anyone else having problems and i sounded like a defect. When I gave them the name of the guy who was going to get his repainted without any hassles, the played dumb and said stop by and we'll take a look at it.
  My wife stopped by today and the guy's car that was to be fix was sitting outside ready to be picked up. my wife said it looked like they patched just the area where the paint was of without sanding it. It was uneven in the spot that had been bare. She went inside and went through the same bull..
  the same that they have not had any complants about the bare paint spots in those certain areas. She then said.. well... there's one right out side that you just did! the lady said which car? & my wide NAMED the guy who owned it.
  they again backslid and went on to tell her that they have have several people complain about that area losing paint prematurely.
  now we have to take it back again when the service manager is there.
  SO If your newer style have paint coming off just behind the rear doors, make sure you get it to a dealer so that this problem is recognized and something is done for everyone without going through a HASSLE. If you need pics of the area that is in question, email me at dave11@budweiser.com , I will snap a few and send them.

idntnvu · July 2003

In case anybody cares, we cancelled the appt to get the SSEi looked at for the overheating problem. Flushed the radiator and replaced antifreeze, and so far so good, no problems, but we'll see.

loubanas · July 2003

I have a noise in the engine compartment when my 2003 Bonneville is idling. When I press the gas petal, the noise goes away. I took it to the dealer and the answer was the fuel line is now connected to the fire wall and causing the noise. Didn't have a fix. Has anyone encountered this noise? And possibly a fix?

kupper25 · July 2003

Here's one especially for folks like Montanafan and Imidazol (must be a chemist?) who have written such great posts about early 90's Bonnes.

I am "maintenance coordinator" for a 92 SSEi in my family with 52M mi. The ride on this vehicle is getting pretty mushy, and I am trying to determine if it is worth it to put money into the suspension. Don't know if this means shocks or struts, and don't know if this means full struts or cartridges. Also wondering if it makes sense to do the shocks (struts?) without also doing the springs.

I think I do know that Bonnes of this year do not have the air-adjustable "ride adjustable" shocks that came later. I have looked over the old posts here, and I see that Snooper was asking about '96 Bonne struts back at post 1022, but I haven't found his answer (and don't know if it would apply to '92).

In general the car is still working pretty well so I would consider improving the ride if the cost is reasonable and I can count on an improvement. Would appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks.

imidazol97 · July 2003

The whole strut gets replaced. I put replacement struts on my 93 LeSabre at 45k. Couldn't stand the soft wallow any longer -- it did NOT have air leveling on the rear so it was too soft. I put on Monroe Road Sensing struts. Now they have a different name for it. I just replaced struts on 98 LeSabre at 75 K with load levelers in rear.

I waited till sears had their 1/2 price on struts sale on Monroe. Only problem is that they get to do the realignment -- not real happy with the quality of their alignment guy.

I believe the replacement part numbers when I checked on 93 were the same for Olds, Bonne, LeSabre. If the ride you want is really firm, you might want a different strut. On the 93 it was firm. But now the 98 has a nice controlled ride after 5 K are on them -- but not real sports car like. The sensa-trac monroes are more compliant in the middle of the travel and tighten up near the top and bottom, at least that's my understanding.

Springs should be fine.

gvoigt · August 2003

Our '97 Bonne has developed a really annoying engine surge at speeds between 66-73 mph. It will vary 300-500 rpm. It seems to be the computer wanting to shift the trans or cannot properly sense the speed and is fluxing the the throttle. If you shift from OD to D it seems to help, but it isn't the answer to the problem. Anyone had a similar problem.

ezrapon · August 2003

Believe it or not, I've had this problem and have heard of others with it as well.... it turned out to be plug wires.

gvoigt · August 2003

Had the plug wires replaced for an unrelated problem not long ago. But I will check them again. Maybe this time I will install monster wires.

imidazol97 · August 2003

I had a problem with my LeSabre 98 going up and down smaller amounts. It showed up with engine just starting to warmup at 35 mph with torque converter clutch locked up. It did it some at higher speeds. Service manager said usually you had to drive the car 20 miles to get it to act up. he said it's the control valve for the torque converter lockup. It never completely is locked up (to cushion engine vibrations from being felt by passengers) and this valve controls how much slip is present from 98% lockup down.

I didn't change my trans fluid until 60K. He said it should be done at 36K. I suspect GM has bad valve or valve body and or poor transmission fluid they installed from factory. I have changed the fluid 2 times in 10K since. It seems to have helped. He thought it was sludged up. It's cheaper to try changing fluid myself than 6-700 for valve body replacement.

kupper25 · August 2003

Imidazol97, thanks for the response on the struts (post 1147-48). I'll see about changing them out and leaving the springs alone. Appreciate your help.

lash92ssei · August 2003

I had my struts (front & rear) replaced on my 92 approx. a year ago (had 152K). Can't say as it really made much of a difference from the old one.

imidazol97 · August 2003

What struts/brand did you put on?

lash92ssei · August 2003

I had OEM parts installed at the dealership. Always have all my cars serviced at the same place by the same people. Just for S&G's, before I purchased the new struts, had the parts dept. manager look up the part numbers for the stock Bonneville struts and then cross ref. to other Pontiac struts. According to him the front struts on the Bonneville are the same as the WS6 package for the Trans AM. Anyway, I've had the new ones on now for about a year with approx. 11K on the odm and still can't say as I really noticed a big difference between the old and the new.

abuck389 · August 2003

I have a 2000 Bonneville, with 33k miles, that has a noise that has been gradually getting louder over the past 24 months; it is now loud enough for my wife to hear it. It doesnt seem to be getting louder lately. It is more pronounced while sitting in the car, barely heard while standing outside and is coming from the front, it sounds like a water pump or alternator going bad, the alternator was replaced by dealership, about 18 months ago thinking that was the cause. The noise is most noticeable at idle and can be heard slightly while driving. The noise is steady or constant, meaning it does not change with higher RPMs. The local Pontiac dealer service manager has given me two different causes of the noise, one it could be the transmission and another time it could be the electric fuel pump

fantascp · August 2003

Keith- From your message #1044- you were right on the money- it was the plastic pin - it was sheared off right at the base- no wonder the trunk would never open automatically.- the part is an Actuator- GM #16630423- I got it from GM parts direct- total cost was $16.71 for the part and $7.95 S&H- it was pretty easy removing the old part and installing the new one- I can't believe i waited this long to finally fix the darn thing but i guess i was getting tired of opening the trunk with a key all the time- boy talk about how spoiled we get!- my first car was a 55 Chevy Belair- no auto trunk release there!
Thanks again for your help.

Chuck.

johnins · August 2003

I am new to this. I have a 97 bon which I love for the power. But that change on fri leaving myrtle beach. I was on rt 77 going 70+ mph and then my rpm shot of controll. I had to have the car towed to the nearest gm dealer and he said it was my transmisson and has to be replaced! does anyone else have a problem like this

shivelyt · August 2003

Weird thing seems to be happening on my 95SE with 79,000 miles. Suddenly I'm hearing a rattling or gurling noise under the hood. Doesn't seem to change with acceleration or in idle only. Local garage diagnosed it as being a worn down pulley on either alternator shaft or on A/C compressor shaft. Quoted me $280 on new alternator or $650 on A/C compressor. Haven't lost air conditioning or any voltage light on. Seems like a lot for a pulley either way. Anybody else have this problem? No end of problems now on this car including leaky valve covers. Car is probably now worth more than $2-3,000. Would really appreciate hearing from others with my experience.

alcan · August 2003

It's usually the harmonic balancer, the pulley on the end of the crankshaft which drives the serpentine belt.

fantascp · September 2003

(98 Bonneville-SSE). The safety belt light stays on and does not go out for about 70 seconds EVEN WHEN the driver's belt is already buckled. The chime also comes on.
Both of these should only happen if the seat belt is not engaged. When i engage the seat belt into the holder the light goes out if i push down on the seatbelt buckle , but once i release the pressure, the light goes back on on the dash and stays on until the 70 seconds goes by. I'm thinking its the connector in line to the seat belt switch. My question is - Where is this connector? is it easy to fix?
ANY help is appreciated.

Question #2- Bose Stereo System- 25 Watts per channel- 100 Watt total system. rear 6x9 Speakers- anyone replace them with aftermarket speakers? and if so what brand etc- they have a 2 ohm impedance- I've been told that i could use either Pioneer or Sony with no problem. I do not want to replace the entire Bose system
I just need 2 rear speakers that are compatable with Bose without spending big GM priced bucks for new Bose rear speakers.

fantascp · September 2003

Answered my own question on this one- just put in Pioneer 6x9 rear speakers replacing the Bose Speakers(2 ohm impedance) that were missing from the back. - no problem going from 2ohm to 4ohm. The amplifier is fine and the sound is pretty damn good, especially the base,( still have the other 6 BOSE Speakers- 2 on each front door and two back tweeters attached to the Amp) considering the Pioneer's are less than 1/4th the cost of the Bose rear speakers.

fantascp · September 2003

98 SSE- Has anyone replaced the SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
on the Drivers Front - if so, how difficult of a job is it? Any info is appreciated.

jim237 · October 2003

My 2001 SSEi with 12,000 miles is making a clunking-grinding feel which is only felt in the steering wheel. It use to be happening some of the time, but recently happens all the time , mostly at from a start to slow speeds. Have not taken to dealer. Any suggestions!!

scylark · October 2003

In regard to my previous post #1142 regarding the popping noise ...multiple noises were actually coming from one area...the pillar between doors on the driver side. It turned out to be the control arm on the rear door. The body shop at the dealer replaced it, but it made it worse. Finally they shortened it 3/8 ths of an inch and it solved the problem...if anyone else has experienced this..that was the fix.

bonneville89 · October 2003

I have a 89 Bonneville SSE, cannot get the rear doors open!
Has anybody else had this problem?
And how can I get these open?
What a pain!
thanks
kris

fantascp · October 2003

Al- please refer back to my posts of 1163 and 1165- re: seat belt switch- any help is appreciated.
Thanks.

sherlock104 · October 2003

Hello, I have a 1992 bonneville SSEi with 162K
just last week all my gauges,DIC monitor and compass went dead. The only thing that works are my Speedometer and the tachometer. I need my DIC monitor to work so that the odometer can be read so that I can get my emmission sticker. Checked all the fuses that bring power to the Instrument Panel all O.K. Also checked grounds and they also are O.K. any suggestions will deeply appreciated

lash92ssei · October 2003

Chances are it's your circuit board for your dash. With the amount of mileage you have it's time for another one.

henry100 · October 2003

Transmission seems to be humming while driving as if it is in a lower gear than it is. Problem began after stopping during a long highway drive. Could it have something to do with the Traction Control feature?

jim237 · October 2003

In reference to # 1166 that I posted on Oct 5 concerning the steering problem I was having with my 2000 SSEI. I reviewed some of the past messages from owners with the same sort of problem and most had said it was probably due to a steering joint that is not lubricated properly. I took the Bonnie to a dealer and they confirmed that the problem was the non- lubed joint. Pontiac now recommends the whole intermediate steering shaft be replaced instead using the $ 20.00 lube kit offered earlier from Pontiac, which was only a temporary fix. I hope the joint on the new shaft has been updated to last.
Time will tell!!

sherlock104 · October 2003

thanks for the input lash92ssei. Assuming that the circuit board its at fault is it a part that can be bought or the entire dash has to be replaced?
Looked on E-bay for such an item but no luck so far.

henry100 · October 2003

Transmission seems to be humming while driving as if it is in a lower gear than it is. Problem began after stopping during a long highway drive. Could it have something to do with the Traction Control feature?

jrodriguez2 · October 2003

Hello!
I have a Bonneville 93 SE and my radio buttons on the wheel stop working a year ago.
I have noticed that there are 4 screws at the back of the Wheel and I am desperate to fix the radio buttons on the Wheel because the Volume button on the radio does not work anymore ( it mutes if I push but will not turn up or down the volume )

I am looking for your advise, I have these questions:

1.- If I remove the screws from the back of the wheel, will that deploy the Air bag? if not, is there any risk of damaging the Airbag mechanism?

2.- Is there any way to just remove the buttons and not the front center part of the Wheel?

3.- At night, the buttons iluminate, wich tells me there is some sort of power delivered to the buttons, if a cable is twisted or blocked on the stearing column the buttons shouldn't be iliminated.. right?

4.- How can I identify the radio cables on the stearing column?

Finally, I red the post of others explaining their problems with the radio buttons on the wheel, I will follow the two advises I found ( locking the wheel ) and tilt the wheel to "release" any stucked cable.

Thanks in advance for your help.

jrodriguez2 · October 2003

My Trip Odometer just stop working ( Bon'93 ), a friend told me that I might need to unmount the dashboard to check the gears of the odometer.

I have no idea how the Trip Odometer works, but I am hopping it works similar to the regular odometer. My Regular Odometer works fine ( 94K miles ) which confuses me even more.

Is there any cable that goes from the engine/transmission to the trip odometer? what makes the numbers turn on the odometer?

Thanks in advance!

jrodriguez2 · October 2003

When I turn the key on my Bon'93 all light on dashboard turn on correctly -including the ABS - then after moving the car less than a block or 300ft the ABS light will turn on and it will never turn off unless I turn off the car.

I know there is a way to "bridge" ports A&B with a paper clip to diagnose the Engine and 'puter, but I will like to know if there is a similar process for the ABS system. I think that based on the model of my car (1993 SE ) the ABS systems is the TRAVES II but I am not sure.

Any help will be appreciated.

PS: After 10 years of great service, I only have those 3 concerns with my car ( Radio buttons on wheel, Trip odometer and ABS light ) not bad considering the time.

jrodriguez2 · October 2003

Searching the Web I found this link that explains how to service the Rubber pins of the Radio controls from the Steering Wheel.
I hope you find this useful as I did.

Thanks.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=53

Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles