Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have basically had to sink $3,250 worth of repairs into a vehicle with 65,000 miles. Unacceptable!
The car was fine until this summer, when it started leaking coolant. Wow it made it five summers without leaking which is an above average failure timeframe I guess comparing the other notes on boards. So we went with the $1100 new intake manifold, luckily the leak was external so the engine was safe.
No sooner we replaced the intake as the transmission started slipping all over the place; 3rd and 4th gear. This car has been babied (it's my wife's car, primarily used to pick kids up from school), so it riddles me how the transmission was "abused" but that's what the dealer's mechanic "told" us it "looked like."
Too bad for GM because we were also negotiating the sale of an Envoy with their sales staff; unknown to the maitenance dept. So I then took the car to another very reputable transmission shop who basically told us in short order it had to be rebuilt. So another $2,100.
I am happy to inform that after $3,200 in repairs this year the car neither leaks coolant, nor the transmission slip. Wow what a deal!
So I started making the rounds with GM. I have service receipts from the point of ownership; a case was opened; many letters sent to GM. Nothing, nothing, nothing.
Guess with the new global economy these folks just don't give a hoot about even responding in writing to the average consumer.
I will never, never, never, never buy another GM - which was just about every car my father owned while I was growing up, and what I have owned so far.
Anyone else tried to get a word out of GM on paper, and if so what was their response in writing to the coolant issues?
Can anyone tell me more about torque converters and how this problem would so affect my auto by creating this high speed droning noise and greatly reduce gas mileage??
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm
Lines from the air dryer to the rear shocks. Replace as required.
Rubber air sleeves on the rear shocks. Replace as required.
Solenoid valve -- Replace the air compressor head if leaking.
Air dryer to compressor head O-ring -- Replace the air dryer if leaking.
Air dryer cover -- Replace the air dryer if leaking.
Air compressor head gasket -- Replace the air compressor head if leaking.
Air compressor head cover gasket -- Tighten the cover bolts to 5.6 N·m (50 lb. in.) if the head cover gasket is leaking. If the leak persists, replace the air compressor head.
Thanks, Ken Bidwell
Watch the voltage reading the next time it happens and I bet the voltage drops to 12 briefly.
My theory about every GM part having an Achille's heel stands. This regulator looks like it was engineered to last the life of the car, except for that one weak spot that was bound to fail. The upper cable is attached to a piece of UHMW that snapped in half. Metal pulling against plastic is a recipe for trouble. Interestingly, I heard the "snap!" when I was lowering the window, yet the cable that broke free was the one that raises the window, which makes me think that something got bound up with the cable or the reel. Yet, when I got the old regulator out, both cables moved freely when I ran the motor.
It is apparent that the design of the part that failed has not been changed on the new regulator. This is what the new one looks like:
It's only a matter of time before the other regulators break too. At least now I know how to replace it!
Ken
Lights dimming:
I had that trouble with 93 LeSabre just before I traded it. I decided it was the heater control head losing ground and turning on the air conditioner, and both cooling fans. When that happened a big load hit and the lights dimmed almost scary at first.
The ground problem was in the major collector next to the driver's door under the carpet. But I never got to dig in and clean up the connections before my wife traded it in.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also has anyone ever heard of struts going at 55,000? I'm starting to think i bought a real p.o.s.
After much too much wasted time, Pontiac dealer thought torque converter was bad in SLE. I left car on Dec. 29 for repair. Got loaner covered by warranty. Never heard another word from DLR. So I called them on Jan. 2, when I'm told:
1. The guy who was originally fixing the car is in the hospital (I wonder...)
2. Torque converter is apparently now NOT bad; DLR. says transmission mount causing droning noise/hum at higher speeds 2000+RPM. (this is tranny second mount in 2 months....they are replacing another one, apparently.)
3. Part will be late -(tranny mount); it never comes in until Jan. 7 - and I find out yesterday that while car is in DLR. lot somebody breaks in a window and steals my radar detector! God knows what else might be gone. I've been fighting with the DLR. because my extended warranty won't pay for the loaner past 8 days MAX.
4. Well, I MAXed-out on that loaner as of yesterday. DLR. replaced window and cleaned out broken glass, says will pay one more day for loaner since car wass on their property when window was smashed out. Today DLR. claims car will be road tested today for fix(?) in tranny mount.
I hope this is over after today. Seems like every warranty trip to a Pontiac dealer results in real disappointment, unexpected more troubles -or just no satisfaction with repair - and/or additional costs and frustration.
5. Anyone know anything about trans. mounts and engine drone or hum as a known problem (DRL. says drone at 2000+ RPMs is really a "vibration/trans mount" issue, but I don't know whom to believe anymore....)
Mike, frustrated in NJ
Mike
That said, if I'd had bigred's aggregate experience, I probably wouldn't be considering another Pontiac either. Ironically, my '00 SLE has been just shy of perfect (not even a rattle) - and I have an extended warranty!
can someone help me , i have no idea what to do anymore , seen everytime i try to fix someting , someting else broke please let me know if you get some ideas
thank you
Take each one off and clean and tighten it back. That he other ends of those cables, loosen and reconnect at the engine and starter and ground connector to the body (follow the black cables).
It could be a battery failure also. Might check with that in mind.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
All of my mounts, trans and engine - were replaced. (Unfortunately, the hum is diminished - but NOT gone.) Your engine mounts should be replaced - the engine should not be "jumping" and I can only say that if my 3 year old Bonne's mounts were shot (according to the dealer) then it stands to reason that yours are shot too.
Because that area can be damp in rain and winter (in North), the contacts inside can corrode. High draw by power seat could have burned through some corrosion and lost the ground connection.
The box is where your left hand would danger when putting it between the seat and the door.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
A local parts store quoted price of $129.00.
Clunk Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft) #01-02-32-001C - (09/12/2003)
2001-2004 Buick Regal
2000-2004 Cadillac Seville STS
1997-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier
2000-2004 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1997-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
2000-2004 Pontiac Bonneville
2003-2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is being revised to add and remove models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001B (Section 02 [shy ] Steering).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 180° of steering wheel rotation in either direction for J-cars (Cavalier and Sunfire). However, some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.
Important
Do not replace the following steering gear part numbers:
GM P/N 26063582, GM P/N 26056808, GM P/N 26031078, GM P/N 26079915, GM P/N 26055468, GM P/N 26079917, GM P/N 26079929, GM P/N 26081813, GM P/N 26080057, GM P/N 26088612, GM P/N 26086001, GM P/N 26088334, GM P/N 26088539, GM P/N 26068964, GM P/N 26058681, GM P/N 26068967, GM P/N 26088606, GM P/N 26067451, GM P/N 26087241, GM P/N 26087416
Do not replace the following intermediate shafts:
GM P/N 10327501, GM P/N 10327502, GM P/N 10327553, GM P/N 22680754, GM P/N 22704392, GM P/N 26050292, GM P/N 26055042, GM P/N 26073020
GM P/N 26078302, GM P/N 26079240, GM P/N 26079787, GM P/N 26100571
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below.
1. How often should I ? Just follow the maintenance schedule in the owners’ manual. If you don’t have one, buy one-it helps if you can read (not everyone graduated from Southern Cal).
2. How many miles will my car last? Most any car will last forever (longer than a young mans morning timber) provided you follow number 1.
3. What kind of oil should I use? See number 1 above (remember, not all engineers graduated from Georgia Tech).
4. How fast can I make my car? Money=Speed-the more money you spend on real motor parts (the stuff below the intake) the faster you go (do you really think a “tornado” will improve gas mileage and add 10 more hp).
5. What kind of air filter should I use? Whatever you bought-provided you follow number 1 above (just make sure it stops the dust from the GTO in front of you).
6. What kind of oil filter should I use? Whatever you bought-provided you follow number 1 above. I use my hands to put it on and take it off, without the fancy tar on the end.
7. What kind of tires should I use? See number 1 above. GM/Tire engineers collected large amounts of data and research about the kind/size of the tires on your car long before it came to market. Any time you change from the owners manual strange things like noise, rubbing, sliding down the road upside down, etc happen (remember, not all engineers graduated from Va. Tech and work for Firestone).
8. What kind of plugs should I use? Whatever you bought-provided you follow number 1 above. After all, it’s the size of the gap that matters-like all things in life.
9. What kind of fuel filter should I use? Whatever you bought-provided you follow number 1 above. Remember to also use Texaco/Shell gas, and put isopropyl alcohol anti-freeze, Marvel Mystery oil, and Techron fuel system cleaner in your tank 4 times a year. They keep the carbon deposits down, get the water out of the fuel, frees stuck things inside your motor, and makes the brown stuff inside your injectors/carburetor disappear (so you don’t have to use the “tornado”)
10. What kind of wax should I use? Maguire’s-he really is a car guy, has a great show on Speed, and if you buy his stuff he’ll keep his show on Speed.
Anyone care to guess - new tranny? Maybe a seal or a plug let loose and it just voided itself. Dealership won't have anyone to look at it until Tues. I'm dying to find out.
Any guesses out there? If new tranny, new car probably. Shoot!
Very very happy, again.
Sort of like when my Century leaked fuel in front of the gas tank. It was the tube having come loose from the filter snapon. Easy fix at the dealer. I was on the highway and with wife and kid, so I didn't spend time crawling underneath...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i had some issues with it, but they were minor. enjoy it while you have it.
If it has the lockup torque converter valve problem that causes uneveness in the lockup percentage, the hard shifting probably came as a result of the transmission setting a code for inability to control the lockup with the fluid valve. The valve wears the bore in the valve body on the trans. The hard shifting is the transmission's way of going into limp-home mode like the engines can do. It probably reset itself and the hard shifting disappeared.
Or the hard shift may be actually the lockup torque converter not being controlled properly by the valve. This is how I first noticed a problem a year or two ago on mine. During normal shifts from 3 to 4 or 4 to 3 the lockup is smoothly removed and then reapplied; if the valve is not working properly, that application is rough at times especially on long uphill slopes.
It's a lot cheaperly to check it out than to trade it. Mine has 100k on it. Has done this for maybe 20K. Am checking into the replacement valve kit from aftermarket (Sonnex). Plan to keep car, so may have a pressure valve replaced too.
If your Toyota is V6, I doubt you're saving that much on gas. Mine gives 30 to 31 on interstate driving, 22-24 suburban and short trips. I can buy a lot of gas for the cost of trading.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On my '00 SLE, I've gotten a combined mileage of 9.4L/100 kms (25 mpg) since new (I haven't reset the fuel economy calculator in 2 1/2 years and am compensating for the 3% difference between the DIC and the pump as far as fuel used). I do roughly 30k kms a year (or about 20k miles). At our prices, that works out to just under $C 2000 a year for fuel (gas is a tad pricier here than in most States). If I find a V6 that'd do the same job as the 3.8 and save me 10%, that would amount to a savings of just $C 200/year - or about $US 150. The mileage on my '95 Camry V6 LE was actually worse than on the Bonnie and Toyota "recommended" premium fuel. My annual fuel expenses is lower for the Bonnie even 9 years later! Now, my '92 Camry LE was a 4-banger and it was quite economical. Anemic, to be sure - but economical.
But, jono, your Bonnie was 5 (or 6?) years old when you traded - you must just have had the itch for something newer. Nothing wrong with that: enjoy your Camry - they're decent cars.
But I found Alcan's description was good on how to repair it. I had trouble getting the air screen that looks like a beehive out. I finally u sed a large paper clip to rotate it and it worked its way out.
Instructions should have included to use your spouse's toothbrush and not your own. It's hard on the toothbrush. I used one that has flexible parts and noticed the flexing was getting softer. When I checked the connector between the parts was softening. Good thing I didn't break off one of the pieces into the air intake!!!
Use a solid toothbrush!
Found air intake cleaner at Pep Boys.
Runs perfect now. That explains the occasional rough idle as it warmed up and I came to stoplights. I thought it was PCV valve at 100K needing replacement!
THANKS ALCAN!!!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Steve