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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tsteffentsteffen Member Posts: 2
    i own a 97 bonneville, the replacement engine has 60,000 miles on it.

    lately and i only notice this when going up hill. it hesitates almost like a chug chug chug up the hill and then the temperature gauge goes way up. it had done this about 2 months ago and then didnt do it again until now. the mechanic says he cant fix it if it aint broke because it never does it when he has it.

    if anyone can help i would sure appreciate it
  • tsteffentsteffen Member Posts: 2
    my 97 pontiac bonneville chug chug chugs up hill and then the temperature gauge goes way up. it doesnt do it all the time, just intermitent.it feels like it missing but it isnt and it does only when i go up hill or at least that is when i notice it the most.someone had suggested the transmission problems?

    thanks for any help
  • 95pontiac95pontiac Member Posts: 2
    I found out what it was. There is a sensor above the tps on the throttle body and it was carbend up. So I hit it with some carb cleaner put it back in and it runs awesome.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like the mass airflow sensor. Good to hear you got it sorted out.
  • chezraychezray Member Posts: 1
    Had a replacement engine 3.8 L turbo put in my car with about 70,000 miles on it that came from a Riviera that was rear ended. My original engine had 145,000 and needed replaced.

    On the replacement engine the shop replaced all the gaskets (new), put in new bearings, plugs, catalytic converter, etc.

    Got a 6 month, unlimited miles warranty. Have burned almost 4 quarts of oil in the first month (1000 miles). There are no leaks anywhere and nothing noticeable from exhaust.

    Car in shop now and they have ran a series of tests, compression, etc.and so far everything checks out ok. Any ideas as to where oil is going? What should I do if they can't find the problem? Should they be responsible for repairing the problem (if they find one)or replacing the engine if they can't solve problem? Thank you....chezray
  • manny3manny3 Member Posts: 2
    Hello
    I too have the same problem with my 95 SSEI and dealer did tune up ,water pump and know is telling me need transmission at a cost of $3500 to $4000.
    don't known what to believe any more.
    Car has 8700 miles only.Will try to identified the TPS sensor. Hope this will do it.
    Thank you for your information.
    Manny3
  • manny3manny3 Member Posts: 2
    hello again.
    Does that sensor come out easy or did u spay over it?
    Thanks agin
    manny3
  • pontiscottpontiscott Member Posts: 1
    Code Shows 1-2 which is all okay or ECM.....Changed that(ECM)could this Be the Crank Sensor.......I noticed that if I sat at idle at a light and let the motor heat up it would start to hesitate and even stall out........So when it would start I would run Fast and the air cooling it down when on high way seemed to allow it to run okay.But know it burped white smoke out the intake when I went to start it and it wont turn over.........It then kicked a Egr code once so I went through that,all the Vac tubes are replaced as well....New Ign.packs on the top end and still I get the 1-2 ode as all is well.......I am not getting a Sensor (Crank) code but that was the suspect all along.

    Thanks For Any in Put.....
  • ss396ss396 Member Posts: 2
    I have owned my '02 SLE since new. It has 56,000 miles and just in the last 6 months the driver's side seat has developed a very hot spot when using the heated seat. Even on the low setting I can't hardly stand it for more than 10 minutes MAX!! My guess is a short and probably not very safe to use right now but just wondering if anyone else has had this problem?

    Thanks for insight
  • tmds3tmds3 Member Posts: 2
    Was wondering if there is an easy way to pull the ABS code from my 96 SE, I know I can jump to pull engine codes but can't find anything on how to pull ABS codes. The light comes on and stays on after the brakes warm up, never on while the brakes are cool.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You can't jump anything on a '96 to retrieve codes. It's OBD II compatible and a scanner or code reader is required. The only way to retrieve ABS codes is with an ABS capable scanner.
  • tmds3tmds3 Member Posts: 2
    Do you know if Autozones readers will pull ABS codes or just engine codes?
    Thanks,tmds3
  • lmcg2926lmcg2926 Member Posts: 1
    I just brought a used 95 Bonneville. The brakes went out on me and they said it had to to do with the master cylinder and the ABS censor for the front and back wheel barrons. Well, i told them to fix the master cylinder this is costing me $353 but to fix the ABS sensor that is going to run me $600-$700. Does anybody know where I can get a cheaper price on the ABS sensor? Or if your in the RHode ISland area and know of someone who could do it for cheaper please let me know!
  • kcraven25kcraven25 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: Hi,
    I have a 92' Bonneville and I've had the battery replaced twice and just had a new alternator put in a few months ago...It drove like a dream til yesterday I went out to start it and it was completely dead. I'm going crazy over here when I keep taking it back to the shop constantly and having to get it jumped all the time. I'm at my wits end with this car. I love it dearly and need to hang on to it for about another year or so til I graduate from college. If anyone has any suggestions please reply!
    Thanks,
    Kelly (broke college kid from Purdue)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    You might post in
    Mr_Shiftright, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1355, 25 Apr 2005 12:06 pm
    and ask alcan to suggest what might be happening.

    All I can think of is a neighbor with a 3800SC Gran Prix a few years old who had lots of battery drain problems since almost new. Another neighbor who's a shadetree mechanic found it was the starter. He replaced the starter and no more morning surprises with a flat battery.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dac033dac033 Member Posts: 1
    I have been reading postings with great interest. I have a '99 bonney I've owned since new. I have experianced same vibration problems and been told it was because tires needed rotating, I had tires rotated every 6000 miles - didn't help.

    Just had to have upper and lower intake gaskets replaced at 79000 miles. I also noticed coolant loss with no appearant leak but did find a small puddle after car sat for 2 days that motivated me to have it checked. I am relieved that I am not alone with this problem but a angry that it is such a common problem with no apperant concern on the part of GM.

    I love my car but am now disappointed that I have to worry when this may happen again :(
  • jimmy9jimmy9 Member Posts: 1
    i had the fly wheel and the starter changed, the car turns over, but will not start. what do you think the problem is, and where should we start looking. it seems to be something minor.
  • bishop819bishop819 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Bonneville Se non supercharged and I had the very same problem. The oil pressure sending unit usually is the culprit. Either the wire that goes to the guage has fallen off due to being pressure washed or the sending unit has gone bad. Either way its $30 for a new one or a little dirt on your nails to reattach the wire. Good luck.
  • bishop819bishop819 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on my 1996 bonneville w/over 200,000. I have hed the tranny replaced along with the torque converter (Standard procedure when replacing tranny) but the shudder is still there. I have read elsewhere that it is a low torque problem with the engine especially in third gear or overdrive at highway speeds.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Can you describe the shudder?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Are you sure it's not a misfire due to secondary ignotion breakdown you're feeling? If the plugs and wires haven't been changed for a while, replace them with ACDelco parts. Also look for carbon tracking down the coil towers.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I asked when the shudder occurred and what it was like because my 93 LeSabre had a prom upgrade to correct the uneveness I'd feel when the torque converter was locked up and I was lightly accelerating or holding my own at 50 and up to maybe 65. I believe the chip delayed the lockup on the torque converter so you didn't feel uneveness from the engine due to EGR or other roughness.

    I had changed wires two times and plugs trying to get rid of the uneveness. Hadn't changed the EGR. Did change the PCV too. Still had it.

    Later cars had slip built into the TCC to soften the connection between the motor roughness and the wheels so you don't feel it if it occurs. My 98 has that "feature" which can have its own problems.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Later cars had slip built into the TCC to soften the connection between the motor roughness and the wheels so you don't feel it if it occurs. My 98 has that "feature" which can have its own problems.

    That would be a function of the torque converter clutch pulse width modulated solenoid, which ramps up the apply pressure and also allows controlled slip of the tcc clutch under limited load conditions to improve driveability and retain fuel economy. Or something like that.
  • ss396ss396 Member Posts: 2
    I had a coolant leak in my 02 bonneville immediately upon purchasing it (brand new). The leak was never enough that I saw any on groung under the car or that I needed to replace much fluid but I could smell it after I'd driven the car. Took car in the first time and they said it was a bad clamp on a hose and replaced it but the problem didn't go away. Took it back a month or so later and they determined I needed a new upper intake gasket. That fixed the problem and no problems since. (Well, with coolant anyway)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I think I have a problem with the programmer that supplies the vacuum to the various vacuum motors on the HVAC unit. The air conditioning vents don't blow. And from my testing, the motor for them isn't getting vacuum from the programmer.

    These are expensive. Are they reman units or a different source? Has anyone taken one apart and been successful in fixing the relay inside so it turns on the vacuum again like it's supposed to?

    This is a 98 LeSabre. So I'm willing to look for alternatives to a replacement. But air conditioning by using the defroster setting is less than great!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    You should delete your email from the post so it doesn't get caught by the archiving bots and used for spamming.

    have you tried lifting the carpet and checking along edges to see if you can tell where the water is flowing in from?

    Garden hose? for testing. Air conditioner drain clogged causing overflow of condensate inside the car? If you're in a climate where you've been using the air, that's a possibility.

    You have to be under the car looking up to find the drain hose. Try running the air conditioning and seeing if there is a drip at the normal rate if you're in a more humid climate.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • chasbvillechasbville Member Posts: 12
    Hi, I had this problem in my 94. It could be a badly installed replacement windshield, OR trapped water from the small area behind the right front wheel well. You need to clear out the drain hole here if the 2000 is the same as the 1992-99 and I suspect it is.
  • robotbob40robotbob40 Member Posts: 4
    car wont start has power just wont startif i turn on key and cross starter it runs for 3 seconds and then dies :confuse:
  • rtunertune Member Posts: 2
    Just in case no one has mentioned it, another engine seize up problem results from a faulty design of the intake manifold upper plenum. In 1995 it was redesigned and made from a composite plastic material. It is still used today -2005, I'm not sure if it has been re-designed to cure the following problem. There is a metal tube that protrudes up from the metal lower section of the intake manifold, thru the plastic upper plenum. This tube is part of the EGR system (exhaust gas recirculation system). It carries extremely HOT exhaust gases. Over time the heat from this metal tube degrades the plastic (burns thru). Since there are coolant passages on both side of the tube, a mere 1½ mm of plastic wall away, the engine can then start to "lose" coolant for no apparent reason and with no telltale signs other than periodic low coolant or periodic overheating. The eventual result can be engine lockup or catastrophic engine failure. Two good "sites" to view on this are: http://ken-co.com/manifold/default.htm and www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3102/is_6_123/ai_n6083402 also look at www.naparts.com/WhatsNewDetail.cfm?StoryId=57 From what I've experienced & read this problem still exists. It can be fixed for as little as $300 if you're a mechanical person, but remember to also change oil and oil filter too!
  • rtunertune Member Posts: 2
    I have before & after photos of Ken-Co company's fixit repair of the upper/lower intake. How do I add them to this board?
  • sgmburkesgmburke Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 1992 Bonneville. Was come-and-go for over a year then went steady on - ran down the battery. The problem was a 12 Volt Relay next to the fuse box under the passenger side (under the glove box). There are several relays. You can find this one by opening and closing the door, and you can hear/feel it "clicking" (BTW You have to remove a cover on the 1992 model to get to the fusebox with the relays). Anyway I removed the relay and the problem stopped. Now I need to turn on the lights manually. I am searching on line for replacement relay. I found similar models for $10.00, but still looking for exact match. Good luck...

    Manufacture: Hella
    12V
    PN 4RD-960388-14
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    why not just get one at your local GM dealer... It probably doesn't cost much.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ollllloandyollllloandy Member Posts: 2
    i recently bought a 1993 bonneville ssei. it had sat in a garage for about 2 years because of some electrical problems. The entire dashboard was not recieving any power and the motor was not running right, sputtering as you pressed the gas pedal. i have fixed the dashboard problem and it now has power and works correctly. 2 problems left.(1) It still runs poorly. Which im thinking has something to do with the gas sitting for 2 years, and am planning on replacing the fuel filter. (2) the heater or air conditioner turns on automatically when i turn the car on. pressing buttons on the air conditioning setting panel doesnt do anything. im guessing it is some more electrical problems but just asking.
  • apatsfan9999apatsfan9999 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Bonneville with the same problem. I've put two batteries and an alternator in. I had it to the dealer twice, couldn't find a problem. I had it on 4 diagnostic machines, couldn't find a problem. Found a new mechanic, he said it was the rear lighter. It was fine for a couple days, then dead again.
  • mstabbemstabbe Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1997 buick riv that started to loose coolant and seized up after removing the plugs and moisture it will turn over. I thought maybe i blew a head gasget but after reading your article i think not. i cannot find any info from the web sites you listed and I would sure like some help with what I need to do to make the repairs.
    Thanks
  • ollllloandyollllloandy Member Posts: 2
    just bought a 1993 bonneville ssei from a friend. the car sat in a garage for a little less then a year because of electrical problems that he didnt want to deal with. The problem is a bunch of burnt/singed wires in the front right corner of the passenger side that lead up to the computer. has anyone ever had this problem? and if so do you know what the reason is? i know there is too much power coming through one or more of the wires obviously otherwise they wouldnt have been burnt. I was thinking about replacing the section of wires that are burnt myself but im not sure if that would be a smart idea. whether i should just pay someone to fix them or do them myself i do not know. anyone have any advice?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the 8th digit of your VIN is K (non-supercharged), the coolant level has been dropping, and there was coolant in one or more of the cylinders, it's almost guaranteed that the composite upper intake plenum has warped and requires replacement. After the repair, the oil and filter should be changed at least twice in short order as engine bearings do not like antifreeze. This info does not apply to VIN 1 (supercharged) engines.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Wires usually burn because of a short circuit in a component drawing too much current, or because of a wire pinched or insulation rubbed through, and shorted to ground. Unless you're able to determine the cause of the burned wires in the first place, there's a good chance you'll be replacing them all again when you power it up and fry everything again. Probably best to bite the bullet and take it to a good auto electrical shop unless the cause is obvious.
  • freddy111freddy111 Member Posts: 5
    My 96 SSE runs consistantly hot. The Dealershsip says that is normal. Also the tranny shifts poorly. The lack of performance info is dissapointing. There are performance modules on Ebay for $10 to $40. Are these any good. Any info would be helpful.
  • diegeldiegel Member Posts: 1
    recently, while driving, i went to use the power window switch and the car just stopped...it would not start for a few hours...this happened 2 other times in the last week, twice when i used the power window switch, and once when i had to use the wipers...it will crank, but not start...was told to replace fuel pump, which i did, but it didn't help...switched out the fuel pump relay, still to no avail...can anyone help me? i love my bonnie...it is a '96 SE, 3.8....help! thanks!
  • mndrewmndrew Member Posts: 1
    2000 Bonneville SSEi: Heated Seat Failure

    Can anyone help troubleshoot or point out an additional resource to identify the likely cause why my pilot's side heated seat won't work? Here's the indications:
    1. Clicking the pilot's seat heater switch to ON (HI), the switch light illuminates and appears to be on for about two seconds and then switches itself off.
    2. I can hear a single "click" sound coming from under the pilot's seat when the heater switch turns off automatically.

    I've eliminated the the seat heater switch and the fuses as being the problem. The co-pilot's seat heater works fine. I'm trying to figure out the item under the seat that is most likely causing the problem. Is there some sort of fuse under there, too?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It should run about 90-95C (about 195-205F).

    Those eBay modules are essentially an 8 cent Radio Shack resistor which replaces the coolant temp or air intake temp sensor. Skewing the temp signal to colder than the engine actually is causes the PCM to over-fuel the engine. Net result is marginal power increase, overly rich fuel mixture, and poor fuel economy. If they worked, GM would have installed them when the car was built.
  • mstabbemstabbe Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info on the 3800 manifold plenum. I removed it and found it to be burned and deteriorated around the EGR tube that comes through the manifold. After removing the gasget I could see a good size hole. I would have never found this problem without help. I have ordered a new plenum from Northern Auto Parts and will install it friday. I am hoping there is no further damage to the engine. I will change oil a few times to make sure all coolant is out of the system. Thanks again for your guidance in repairing my 97 Riv.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    You might want to be sure you're getting the latest design (redesign) for the gasket. Check with your Buick dealer to see.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ashlemanashleman Member Posts: 1
    Good day to the kind souls who might rally to my aid. My recently acquired 2000 Bonneville with 18k miles is running at a steady 200 degrees. Most vehicles I have owned seem to operate at about 180 degrees. A call to the service manager at the local Pontiac shop indicated 200 is a regular operating temp. The manager did not say it was the "official" target temp. Is this accurate? Is this form maximum tolerances, performance, fuel economy? What will happen if I locate a 180 degree thermostat and swap it? Any advice appreciated! Tom
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I assume your car has the driver information center readout that's digital.

    #1 would be how accurate is the reading from the gauge. It may be off by 2 degrees. My 03 LeSabre says it's running at 198 after the radiator water gets warmed and it starts getting it as recirculated water. That's moving and with or without air conditioning running. Stop at a light and the temp moves up to 205 in warm weather like SW Ohio has now.

    If you stop and idle while the car's been warmed up, the temp should go up to about 217 and then the fans kick in (air conditioning is off) lower it back to 205 and then kick off.

    I'd look for patterns of not opening while car has air moving through radiator or having the thermostat open too much for signs that it's time to change the thermostat.

    I would check to be sure the recall was done for the new bolts that hold the air intake to the manifold and had the sealer pellets put in. That should have been more than a year ago. I believe it should have a sticker on the radiator supports that gives the date, dealer and campaign number for the recall. If it's not there, check with a dealer to have them run the VIN number to see if it's been done. I believe any GM dealer can do the recall for you...

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • apatsfan9999apatsfan9999 Member Posts: 2
    Just got my 94 Bonneville back again. The relay for the power antenna was drawing all the juice over night. I just hope this finally fixes the problem!
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    When warm, the temp gauge on my 2000 SSEi always indicates 200, slightly higher when idling in traffic on a hot day. I think the target temp is actually 195 (it is not 180) but the gauge isn't that accurate, and there is no digital readout. I'd say 200 is normal. The dealer can use a scan tool to get the actual temp that the computer sees.
  • gcashgcash Member Posts: 3
    there is deffinately a problem, I'm on my 4th and I have had the car since 1996. it's a 94 sse. The next time it goes I'm replacing it with an alt for an ssei I'm told they are better. and may need a minor alteratin to mount it.
  • bonne02bonne02 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Thanks for the wealth of info here. I need help on replacing the rear brake caliper dust boot on my 2002 Bonneville that has a cut in it.

    Could I simply pull out the old boot then install the new boot? Or do I have to remove the caliper from the car?

    The repair manual says you have to remove the caliper completely to rebuild it. But from the instructions, it appears that you could possibly just remove the lower pin bolt on the caliper, swing the caliper up, and remove/re-install the dust boot.

    Any opinion or help would be greatly appreciated.
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