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after i replaced bulbs/ starter/ battery etc i found that the positive battery cable, where it connects to the battery is actually poorly designed as two seperate cables.
these two cables ends are in one rubberized "boot" through wich a bolt passes and screws into the positive terminal on the battery.
pull the boot back and there will be corrosion in between the two cable ends. clean and seal the ends. tighten the bolt and no more compass/information center/gauge reset problems!
hope i helped-v
Kelly
I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, as the book value isn't much with 114,000 miles on it and being 13 years old. Just want to fix it good enough to sell it. We got a 2002 SSEI, Supercharged this weekend to replace it.
I have been told that the computer and anti-knock sensor will compensate and the engine will run fine with 87 Octane. Only that fuel economy and power may suffer.
Any thoughts?
bearing between the trans & engine. The bearing will get dry and start to radiate noise like a pulley going out.
If it gets real bad your looking at 10 hrs of dealer time
to change out a $6.00 bearing. The best to you and may it only be a pulley.
on it when it started to have the noise?
1) disable your driver side airbag--remove IP fuse #7, and to be safe, disconnect the negative battery terminal (check to see if you have a radio activation code as you may need that to operate the radio after you have disconnected the battery). Let the car sit for 15 minutes so the airbag capacitor fully discharges so that it does not accidentally inflate.
2) While you wait, spray some liquid wrench or other lube on the four star socket bolt heads on the back side of the steering wheel. My 93 takes a star socket T-30 with a 1/4 in drive for a socket wrench. Loosen the four star bolts till you can pull loose the airbag module far enough to disconnect the a) airbag yellow connector, b) the black radio connector plug, and c) the single wire which is the horn wire (leave it in the horn well).
3)Turn the airbag module over and remove the 4 hex screws that hold the radio switches to the module (you may also have to remove another bracket to fully remove the switches together). You are now looking at the $228 (non-serviceable) part the dealer will sell you.
4) Start on one switch piece, with the switch buttons face down, and remove the two inset hex head (3/16 socket should do it) screws which hold the capper housing on top of the bottom side of the switch circuit board, feeding some of the wire cluster thru the access hole on top of the capper housing to allow you to separate housing from circuit board. Lifting up the circuit board carefully, you will see the mechanical workings--the rubber plungers which push against the little white microswitches on the circuit board. put a piece of tape over the plunger holes if the plungers tend to slide out easily. Mine were dissolved in the plunger tubes and I had to clean them out with rubbing alcohol and q-tip.
5) To test your switches, plug the black radio female connector to the male end on the steering wheel shell, reconnect your negative battery terminal, and turn the key to ACC to get power to the radio. Get your radio working using the radio set controls. Now try depressing the small white micro switches on the circuit board you just removed. If they function, your switch is OK. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
6)Assuming your switches are OK, the challenge is to remove one of the plungers to determine the length. I trimmed the 5d nails to length with wire cutters, and installed them into the plunger tubes, having filed down the nail heads with a grinder so they are thin enough to not stick too far out past the end of the plunger tube. This will all become intuitively obvious to the casual observer once you get into it.
7)When putting your new plungers back in and the switch housing back together, dont screw the 3/16 hex head screws in all the way. My switches worked after I found the right combination of length of the nail plungers and leaving the hex screws loose. I had to do this because none of my rubber plungers were intact for an accurate measurement. 8)Once you have your switches working to your satisfaction, reinstall the switches on the airbag assembly, plug in radio, airbag and horn connectors, tighten the four star socket bolts (a little on each one, then another till all are tight) to reconnect the airbag assembly to the steering wheel. Reinsert your airbag fuse #7, turn the key on test your steering column controls to make sure they are still working. I have to tell you, I ducked down when I first started up the car--fearing the airbags would deploy. But they did not and I laugh about it now.
There you have it, just like a woman's skirt. Short enough to keep you interested yet long enough to cover the subject. Hope this helps you and anyone else who has trouble with their radio steering column radio switches and does not want to spend the money for new ones. Hopefully if you do get new ones, they will not be made with the same rubber plungers the originals came with.
I own a 1996 SSE and just love the car. I have 178,000 kms on it with no major problems. Get consistantly 35 - 40 mpg at 125 kph. But like everyone I want an SSEI and I found one with 58,000 kms on it. But I'm wondering how hot this one will run, because my 96 SSE runs very hot and I am not able to tow anything with it. Will this 98 SSEI be any better and can I tow with it? Would appreciate any help.
Thanks
craig
If it restarts, I'd check grounds inside the car. There is one next to the emergency brake, one next to drivers seat between it and door and same on passenger side. In some cars those get corroded with moisture and whatever causing funny things to happen. But usually not including engine dying.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
P1133 = O2 Sensor Insufficient Switching (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Might be a dead upstream O2 sensor on the front bank. Check first for the sensor wiring harness melted to the exhaust manifold, or a disconnected or dirty connector. If ok, check fuse #5 (20 amp). This also provides power for the EGR and cannister purge solenoids. If all's ok, probably a defective O2 sensor. Can be checked for operation with a scan tool.
The blinking indicates an error from the programmer (control) unit down on the heater box. Something is not working and you'll have to have the codes read by a mechanic with a TechII that can see the codes for the things beyond the engine control computer.
A likely problem is the blend door for heat and cool air which is linked to the programmer by a rod at the bottom or the top door which controls passenger vs driver blending and is controlled by a small electric motor connected to the programmer box by tiny wires and a connector.
The first thing to do is determine if you have vacuum control. Does most of the air come out the defroster and a little at the heater outlet at the floor? That could mean no vacuum and would explain why you hear air but get little effect from it. Check for that first. Turn on unit without starting motor. See where air comes out at defroster and floor. Then start the motor and vacuum should be able to change where the air is directed. Usual problem is when set for mid dash vents air comes out defroster instead which floor choice will work--if the vacuum from engine is reaching the programmer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also, to the guy that talked about his car not having vent circulation, I agree with the earlier response you received about the evaporator being clogged. I replaced mine for the very same reason and vent flow was vastly improved.
I'm a longtime Pontiac guy. Currently own a 93 SSEI, 95 SSE and an 02 SLE, so while not being a certified mechanic I'm pretty familiar with Bonneville problems. Now If I can only resolve the ABS & Traction Control lights that stay on in my 93 SSEI that spits out multiple codes, I'd be happy. I've replaced both rear wheel sensors to no avail. Would like to know if the pump or computer would be next logical step. Errors point to both.
033 R/R Missing 037 L/R Missing
045 Inlet Valve 061 Pump Motor Run Fault
It was suggested I replace both rear wheel sensors first, which I did. No change, still get the lights as soon as the car is started. This is on my 93 SSEI.
What is the sequence to turn off the security ? I bought the car used 4 years ago - never having this issue. The alarm light stays on after it is started for about 1-2 minutes and shuts off, but never any problems.
Please advise. Considering a bulldog by pass module with remote starter. What do u think ? Will the car have to be able to start before doing this surgery ?
Really disgusted as I love these cars. Had my last 88 (with the c motor) for 250,000 miles, gave it to the american heart association to live on !
Why is the battery dead?
A battery that's putting out low voltage because of drain problems or charging problems will cause systems on the car to do funny things. Battery problem needs to be fixed to diagnose others. Is something draining the battery? Glovebox or trunk light staying on?
>looking to bypass the security feature,
When you sit in the car and turn the key to "on" without starting the car, what does the "security" light do? It should come on and remain on for a few seconds and then go off. If it stays on then you have a problem reading the key, most likely or some other more uncommon problem.
If you have a light that stays on and won't let you crank, you can wait 3 minutes and then the light goes off and allows you to try again to insert a key with the proper chip in it. If you have a different key, try that one. If key resistor chip read is the problem, rub it with a pencil eraser and use rubbing alcohol on the key and insert into the lock cylinder wet to try to clean the contacts inside the lock. If you still have problems, there is a bypass method--same one they use when installing a remote start setup!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,