Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

imidazol97 · January 2006

If you have a dual auto air unit it might be related to the two doors that are operated by the programmer box that sits at the corner of the heater box and has a electric motor connector at the top and the motor moves a door that controls heat to the driver and passenger. I saw a post by one guy who removed the glovebox for access and hooked a coat hanger around the little rod to pull it to the heat position.

The bottom of the programmer has an electric motor in it and connects to a metal rod that snaps into a white plastic snapto thingie that moves back and forth. I believe that one is the passenger side control to adjust the relative heat/cool going to the passenger.

I don't recall if the upper problem was a motor not working and he didn't want to take out the hush panel, glovebox and try to replace it -- it might require removing something higher on the dash for easier access...

palalt · January 2006

Didn't see anyone respond to your question, so here's my OPINION. My 93 SSEI always shows negative boost (which is actually a drain on the engine) until I reach some point of RPM or accelaration, at which time it registers positive and begins to "add value or performance". I've never read the owners manual about the actual guage but believe what you're seeing is normal. By the same token, if you're under full throttle and nearing maximum rpm in any gear, your guage should be reading towards the high/positive side, like 7 or 8 pounds of boost, which means it's adding the appropriate power. If you don't see the guage peaking like that or feel the performance gain under full throttle, I'd look into it.

95ssei · January 2006

I have a 95 Bonneville which I recently replaced the engine in (long story and almost 3 grand later I have a replacement engine). The replacement engine (a used one with about 71,000 miles on it) is displaying a rough idle and surges as if one of the cylinders is missing occasionally while driving. It only does this at 2000 RPM's or below. As long as I am accelerating the car seems to run fine. I am thinking this could be the result of a partially plugged fuel filter and am going to replace it considering I don't know if it's ever been replaced in this car. Would anyone else have any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Preston

jgtmil · January 2006

Thank you for your responce mine does the exact same thing but the manual does seen to state that it should read zero. I guess my real concern is what you mentioned, the drain on the engine. and if this affects the gas milage. never the less it runs fine.

imidazol97 · January 2006

How many miles are on the fuel filter? less than 100K? Might not hurt to change it. Mine at 130K has some blockage based on simple blow test after it dried in the sun for 24 hours.

I assume the new motor has new GM plugs and new GM wiring? That would be my first place to start. At 70K and 12 years it's due if they were not already replaced.

Second check might be the coils, but I'm not sure about symptoms on the coils from reading all the discussions. I'll leave that to knowledgeable people.

95ssei · January 2006

The fuel filter has 116K on it as does the rest of the car. I'm have the new filter but a matter of finding time (and will power considering I'm in Ohio in January) to change it. I'll check all the plugs and plug wires out as well. Thanks for the advice!

imidazol97 · January 2006

If you're in the mood for fuel filter change today and couple of earlier days would have been great here in beautiful Ohio-at least SW.

It's in front of the right rear wheel and up next to the frame rail. You relieve pressure or let the car sit overnight, jack up car slightly, put jackstand under rail in case jack lets go when you jiggle the car, and push in on clips and release the line then use wrenches on the other end. If you have the older location it's under the passenger's foot-a lot harder to get to requiring jackstands and some time.

I'd do OEM GM or NAPA wires and GM plugs first if you don't know they're new within 20K.

harop · January 2006

Mine(not supercharged) was running rough after huricane Catrina, and then my mechanic(and a friend) told me first to change the gas(I was using cheap Costco, and now switched to Chevron) and use some Injector Cleaner. I bought Chevron(Techron) injector cleaner from Costco and after second tank, all problems were gone.

-haro

mdonnelly · January 2006

I HAVE THE SAME RUST SPOT AT THE TIP OF THE HOOD ,MAYBE GO TO MY AUTO BODY GUY . L.I. , NY. 2001 SSEI

mdonnelly · January 2006

2001 SSEI SUPERCHARGER - 63K - ON VERY COLD MORNINGS
12-15 DEGREES(2X & 2 MONTHS APART),
THE - SEVICE STABLEIZER SYSTEM - WARNING CAME ON WITHIN 1 MI. OF NEIGHBORHOOD DRIVING . MY MECHANIC SAYS IF IT WAS A PROBLEM THE COMPUTER WOULD SPECIFY THAT MORE FREQUENTLY .
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? AND HOW DO YOU SERVICE THE SYSTEM ?

bonne02 · January 2006

Hi,
My 2002 Bonneville make a whining noise when I make a turn (left or right) AND accelerating at 20-40 mph. This noise sounds similar to a bad transmission gear noise.

If I am coasting or braking when making a turn then there is no noise.

Does anyone have any idea what this might be? Is this a serious problem that should be fixed immediately?
Thanks.

samiam6 · January 2006

My 92 Bonnie (only 230,000 mi.) stalls after about 30 mins. running and won't restart until engine has cooled completely. It didn't set a code. I suspect either a crankshaft sensor or ignition module. Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track and if so is there a way to test these individually. Thanks for any help I can get. p.s. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet but when it stalls it stalls dead and doesn't sputter.

justjoeking · January 2006

There is nothing wrong with your boost gauge, or your supercharger. It is NOT causing a 'drain' on your engine. (Do not attempt to adjust your set. :shades: )

Here's the secret: your boost gauge works on the same principle as a vacuum gauge on a non-supercharged engine. It measures pressure in the intake manifold, both negative (vacuum) and positive ("boost"). The only difference is that a vacuum gauge on a non-supercharged engine doesn't have a positive range. This makes sense, because the only way a non-boosted engine could generate positive pressure in the intake manifold is if you ran it backward.

Any running engine is sucking air down its intake. If you can find a naturally aspirated car with a vacuum gauge and watch it (some cars in the 80s used to call them "economy gauges"), you will see it gives the same type of readings under the same conditions as your boost gauge. A vacuum gauge shows higher manifold vacuum (that's greater negative PSI) when the throttle is closed or the engine is decelerating. That's because the engine is pulling really hard to suck enough air through a tiny opening. To demonstrate, pucker your lips and inhale fast - watch your cheeks pull in with the negative pressure.

Now try the same with your mouth wide open. This is what happens when you step on the gas - you open the throttle and the wider opening reduces the negative (vacuum) pressure in the manifold, because more air can now get in. This makes the gauge swing 'up' toward zero - but a vacuum gauge doesn't quite reach zero unless the engine stops running, because any time you're sucking any air this creates a manifold pressure that's lower than atmospheric pressure. (Tip: "Zero" on a vacuum or boost gauge = atmospheric pressure.)

Again, the only difference on your car is that with a supercharger adding pressure to the intake manifold you will eventually get into positive PSI ("negative vacuum?") when the throttle is open wide enough, the load is high enough, and/or the revs are high enough.

But even before the gauge swings above zero, your engine is getting the benefit of added air pressure and volume from the supercharger. More air down the intake = more fuel = more power. There is never a "drain" from your supercharger reflected on the boost gauge - it only shows the pressure of the air the car is inhaling. As a matter of fact, the extra "drag" imposed on the engine from having to spin the supercharger belt would actually be reflected in a slight INCREASE in boost on the gauge. (If that doesn't make sense read on.)

The highest pressure that the stock supercharger on our cars is supposed to generate is 8psi - at that point a dump valve spits out the extra pressure before it turns our engines into giant grenades. If your gauge ever lingers in the red zone above + 8psi, it probably means you have a bad dump valve and you should fix it quick.

Other than that, only two types of readings indicate engine trouble on a boost or vacuum gauge. (1) Vacuum not high enough at idle indicates a vacuum leak. Your gauge should be pegged in negative territory at idle. It might creep up a little when you put it in gear, and a bit more when you turn on the A/C. This reflects the load on the engine. (Get it? More engine effort = lower vacuum, and eventually positive boost if you have a blower.)

(2) Erratic vacuum readings indicate rough running, like a cylinder missing its spark or leaking/mis-timed valves. I'm not talking about a gauge that swings wildly when you change throttle position - it's supposed to do that. I mean a needle that wobbles or jumps around, especially if you're not moving the throttle and the engine load is constant.

That's about all I can add - your car sounds like it's fine. Hope this helps!

doc8246 · January 2006

Where is the battery located in a 2003 bonneville?

dadscar2 · January 2006

hey, how/where do you find these codes? Is it something I can do without buying one of those expensive scanners?

alcan · January 2006

A scanner or code reader is required. AutoZone will retrieve trouble codes no charge.

evandro · January 2006

Under the rear seat, per the owner's manual.

HTH

mdonnelly · January 2006

2001 SSEI SUPERCHARGER - 63K - ON VERY COLD MORNINGS
12-15 DEGREES(2X & 2 MONTHS APART),
THE - SEVICE STABLEIZER SYSTEM - WARNING CAME ON WITHIN 1 MI. OF NEIGHBORHOOD DRIVING . MY MECHANIC SAYS IF IT WAS A PROBLEM THE COMPUTER WOULD SPECIFY THAT MORE FREQUENTLY .
ANY SUGGESTIONS ? AND HOW DO YOU SERVICE THE SYSTEM ?

jeffy_pooh · January 2006

I have a 1987 pontiac bonneville.
My car is idleing rough. and it dies at stop lights. it feels like its not gettin gas. and when im driving it has no more acceleration. it used to be quick when i stepped on the gas. but now it hesitates. and i can hear the engine and the rpm but it doesnt even feel like its going anywhere. could it be a second fuel filter?

supabon · January 2006

This morning I started my car, no problems. However, noticed that when I came to a stop or had to sit and idle in traffic my car started to shimmy. It shimmies from side to side, and the service engine light came on. Thinking maybe some built up carbon could be the issue, got some cleaner for the fuel system. That has yet to show an improvement. It hasn't stalled, and doesn't really act like it's going to. Just running rough. Acceleration is poor. Definately no significant change in the rpms. Recently changed spark plugs and cables. New battery too. Any advice would be great.

harop · January 2006

jeffy_pooh,

If you check my earlier message 1747, you may find it applicable to your problem. In fact, my Bonny 95 was idling rough but never died. I also felt it was not as quick as I was used to. But after 2 applications of Chevron-Techron fuel injector cleaner and switching to Chevron gas, my problems are gone.

-haro

imidazol97 · January 2006

>changed spark plugs and cables.

I hope you used OEM quality wires and GM plugs. How many miles are on your car?

You might check to be sure all your wires are still in place and connected.

If you try the Techron, put in at nearly empty tank and fill up with number of gallons for the size bottle you bought-I don't remember the two sizes they have. They have an injector cleaner and they have a fuel system cleaner. You might look for the fuel system cleaner. Use premium brand name fuel.
Drive.
When down again if problem still there, repeat and fill up proper amount of premium fuel. Do not use again for a third time.

Usually when I put it in, I notice a difference in 10 miles or so. It doesn't take using the whole tank to feel and hear an improvement.

jgtmil · January 2006

WOW you have given me more than enough info, I feel that I have been educated. This is why I use this forum, thank you.

jgtmil · January 2006

I have a 95 bommy and everytime it rains my right rear floorboard gets flooded. This is while the vehicle sits. Part of the headliner is wet too it looks as if it is leaking from the moon roof but the seals look fine. Does anyone have any suggestion before my wires short out, we don't have the luxary of a garage...

imidazol97 · January 2006

Aren't there drains tubes from the sunroof? Check those with a hose to see if they are carrying away water. I suspect one of those is backed up or leaking letting water get onto the headliner.

Do the rear-facing drains come out in front of the rear wheels? I'm trying to remember what posters have said in other discussions.

harop · January 2006

Exactly, and in my case I took off the plastic cover from rear-right and what noticed was the drain hose had come out and was loose. I just pushed it back and since then no more leaks for 4 years.

supabon · January 2006

What are OEM cables? A mechanic friend of mine did all the work for free. I only supplied the money to get the needed materials.
I was told not to drive it until after it was hooked up to a systems monitor to check out what the computer says.
I did put in a fuel system cleaner. However, I have not driven 10 or more miles on it since then. Also have not been using premium fuel. (Little expensive for a teacher's salary)

imidazol97 · January 2006

OEM is original equipment manufacturer.

In other words, it's safest to stay with strictly GM wires or a true equivalent like NAPA's OEM. I think Belden makes an OEM level. I wouldn't put on the cheaper, hotrodder type wires that you may see or be pushed to buy at some auto parts stores.

jgtmil · January 2006

Is it possible that the drain hose has come loose from the moon roof side. I pulled the plastic cover and the back seat out to follow the drain and the tube seemed to be in the right spot. also there are water marks on the right side of the headliner, and i cannot find any way to remove the courtesy handles to get the liner off...

imidazol97 · January 2006

I believe that's what post #1761 says. But I don't know how to get into there to check at the moonroof itself.

I don't have sunroofs and never have since 1979 Mustang Pace Car.

harop · January 2006

Now I remember more.
I actually did remove courtesy handle before I could see and fix the problem. I also remember it was not so easy to remove the handle, because most small plastic parts would break. Good luck!

-haro

jgtmil · January 2006

Yes the plastic breaks! very easily. nothing a little super glue couldn't fix ha ha. the over all solution was to back flush the drain tube. thanks for the help this has been a very sour smelling problem.

samiam6 · January 2006

I have a '92 bonneville with 230000 mi. on it that stalls after it warms up. Once it cools down it will start again and run another 30 min. or so. No codes have been recorded and when I turn the key to the on position after it stalled I don't hear the fuel pump. I suspect either the crank sensor or the ignition module but was told the crank sensor usually will not work again after it goes out. Can anyone advise me if I'm on the right track or what checks I can make to narrow this down. Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much,
Mike

dmax_me_am · January 2006

I have a 2000 Bonneville getting very pour MPG 15 and getting worse. It has 54,K on it very well maint. Looks & drives new incredible as it may seem in this instants this car is all but new. New wires plugs AF, Syn. Oil, gas filter WHY ???? the bogus MPG. Just lost a 3800 Buick getting 19 & 20 same driving. What up

december · January 2006

thanks i fixed it,that is what it was.

december · January 2006

Does your exhaust smell like rotten eggs?It could be your converter on your exhaust.

captainat55s · February 2006

DO YOU HAVE TO RUN PREMIUM UNLEADED IN SSEI'S

ardbeg · February 2006

I am experiencing a vibration (2000 Bonneville SSEi) in the steering wheel at anything over 50 mph.... particularly when the wheel is turned slightly as when changing lanes. It is not a wheel balancing problem as the dealer has put 4 new wheels from another vehicle on it and nothing changes. I've been told by the dealer that the steering components are all "tight". I still believe the problem is somewhere in the steering mechanism.... Can anyone provide any suggestions?

samiam6 · February 2006

In reference to my message #1768 I changed the ignition module, started the car,it ran for 5 secs. or so then died again only this time it set a code. The code was 58...fuel pump disable due to the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system). Does anyone have any suggestions on trouble shooting this system or even bypassing it? I guess if I can get by the VATS I'll put the old ignition module back on...maybe it was never the problem. Thanks for any help I can get in regards to these problems.
Mike

imidazol97 · February 2006

I thought the VATS system only kept the car from starting when an incorrect resistance was read. I didn't think it could stop it once the car was running.

The VATS can be bypassed but you may have the earlier system that Passkey II.

samiam6 · February 2006

I believe the '92 vats system is prior to the Passkey 1 & 2 systems. If the vats won't kill the car after it's started why does it keep setting that code when it dies? Any ideas? Thanks.Mike
The discription of the code acording to alldatapro.com is "58"-PASS Key (VATS) Fuel Enable Circuit.....Anyone???

jt9 · February 2006

We own a 2001 Bonneville that has just begun humming. Can you tell me what you found out about your car when it did this? I notice your message is dated Dec 03, and figure you either fixed the problem or got rid of the car (which is very tempting) Thanks in advance for any help you can share.

jt9 · February 2006

I need help, our 01 Bonneville is making a humming or maybe more of a whining noise continuously when running. Even when we shift to N it can still be heard. It gets louder the faster we go.
If anyone has any suggestions we sure would appreciate your help.

morgi · February 2006

Had the same thing with my '91 It turned out to be the MAF sensor.

britegreen · February 2006

94 bonneville if equiped? location of emergency fuel shut-off, or fuel interupt switch. thanks

hydrasports · February 2006

I have a 2002 SE with 59,500 miles. I have had the half shaft lubricated and 2 new ones installed all under warrantee. I still feel a notch in the steering after only 5000 miles since the last repair when turning under acceleration. I keep fixing the same things over and over. Is something else wrong with my steering? It does not bind or get stiff like the rack is going.

deemo27 · February 2006

Go search and read all my earlier posts. You may need to change the computer to get codes to show up. Could be the cam or crankshaft sensor.

alcan · February 2006

Doesn't have one. What's the problem?

mlm4 · February 2006

Same problem with my 2000 SSEi and my 2004 Avalanche. Both have had the intermediate steering shafts replaced with "improved" designs, yet the notch sensation comes back. I don't know much about how the shaft is constructed, but if it's like 99% of the other parts in GM cars, I'd bet the problem could be resolved if they switched from a 20-cent component to an 80-cent component. GM parts always have an Achilles' heel and it always seems to be the smallest and cheapest piece of the entire design that causes the problems.

samiam6 · February 2006

Thanks for your feedback. Here's the latest update...After changing back to the original ignition module, the car again wouldn't start so I re checked the codes and found it had set a code "17"spark reference circuit problem) and "42"(electric spark timing circuit problem)...ahah!!! Since it didn't set a "41"(cam sensor circuit problem) I figured it had to be the crank sensor; according the the manuals I referenced they're the only 2 sensors in the ESC system. I replaced the crank sensor...car still didn't start...so I guess I'll replace the cam sensor. I just hope I didn't damage the crank sensor during installation by either tightening the adjustment screw too tight or not aligning it properly (the only alignment tool I could find were these plastic feelers from NAPA and the balancer was a press fit on the shaft). This project is wearing me down!!! Any support is greatly apreciated. Thanks, Mike

Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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