Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

imidazol97 · January 2009

Phillifrank:

The bolts around the UIM develope seeps which wick up oil and in some cases coolant which pools in the low spots such as around the bolt in the middle of the picture. The UIM is dry in that area so it's not going to seep them. The coolant goes through the UIM at the throttle body seals between it and the throttle body and about an inch to the left of that where the coolant goes from the metal lower into the ABS upper manifold. You're going to see external coolant in those areas if there are seal problems.

The second picture shows a gooey clamp around the CV joint on the axle. Is it leaking grease--that's bad and needs to be check or fixed before joint fails. I see an orange brown tone on the belt and the pulley for the water pump. That suggests to me the water pump may be seeping; that's a wear item. When car's parked hot so coolant is under pressure you might be able to see a seep if you use a mechanics mirror to look into the backside of the water pump pulley there. The o-rings on the plastic elbow that comes out of the LIM to the idler housing may also seep in that area. You will be able to easily see brown coolant trail if that's occuring.

phillyfrank · February 2009

My car doesn't start after it's been running awhile, but it starts great when it's cold. I know when the engine is going to run ok when it goes up to 3 or 4 rpms and it idles fine for awhile. When I go to start it, after it's been running it wants to stall, but if I tap the gas pedal (lightly) it will surge and not stall. Sometimes it seems like no gas is going to the engine. I took it to my mechanic and he says the fuel pumps pressure is low and needs to be replaced. Does this sound right? How can I replace it myself? How hard can it be? I can't afford to pay $300. I'm a carpenter and good with tools, but I never took the time to learn about cars.

sultana · February 2009

I'm having problems with my car having a hard time starting...it always starts but one day it's not going to. The thing is that I only have problems with it starting when the engine is warm, the car starts beautifully when it's -30 but if I've driven it for an hour or so it doesn't seem to want to start very well. I'm also having problems with the car dying when it's idling but it doesn't seem to be idling high or anything. Help!

imidazol97 · February 2009

I just saw someone make a generalized statement as to what that often was caused by in another forum. I think it may be that the crankshaft position sensor was not reading so there's no spark. but don't throw on a crankshaft position sensor without more diagnosis. It also could be fuel pump related.

You need to find if you're getting a timing pulse and I believe their suggestion was use a 197 bulb, like is in the side market and rear lights on our cars. Straighten the prongs out straight and put one into a fuel injector lead--remove it from the injector and just stick the bulb in while someone cranks the car. If there's no flash, then the injectors are not getting a timing pulse. You might set this up and test in advance to be sure you know how to unsnap the injector lead and put in the 197 bulb leads and that you get flashes. Then when it won't start, stick in the bulb and try.

You need to diagnose if you are missing spark or fuel. If the injectors are working, then have a spare spark plug and pull off a spark plug wire and lay it with your spare plug against a metal part of the motor and crank to see if you're getting spark. Last, you can spray a starting assist fluid into the throttle body while cranking if you know you have spark and know you have injectors pulsing. If it starts then you can suspect fuel pressure and delivery from the tank.

phillyfrank · February 2009

My car doesn't start after it's been running awhile, but it starts great when it's cold. I know when the engine is going to run ok when it goes up to 3 or 4 rpms and it idles fine for awhile. When I go to start it, after it's been running it wants to stall, but if I tap the gas pedal (lightly) it will surge and not stall. Sometimes it seems like no gas is going to the engine. I took it to my mechanic and he says the fuel pumps pressure is low and needs to be replaced. Can it be the fuel filter needs to replaced? Where can I find the fuel filter in a Pontiac Bonneville SE?

imidazol97 · February 2009

See diagnosis for previous answer I posted.

Another commong finding is a vacuum leak. Little rubber tubing deteriorates and cracks or just rots especially near ends or hot spots on the motor. Using carburetor spray around the tubing and edges of the UIM and throttle body might locate a leak for you.

The IAC can go bad. The MAF sensor can be not working properly. Some people have luck troubleshooting MAF by simply unplugging it and starting the car. If it runs better with it disconnected for idle and low speeds, you may have found your problem. The MAF can be cleaned with chemicals like alchol or MAF cleaners from the parts store, but do not touch the wires. A soft brush might be used.

If your mechanic feels it's the fuel pump, he might be right. They deteriorate. The replacement with a quality pump is expensive. A lot of people put in the cheap pumps and end up replacing them again within a year because they fail. The pump replacement also means replacing the tubes and fuel gauge sender. The tank must be dropped on that year car.

The fuel filter, likely not your problem, is below the passenger side on the right. It's inside the rail. The tubing in front will be partly rusted and brittle. Use a tubing wrench for good even grip on the nut. The other end is a snap connector to the flexible tubing that goes toward the tank. If it were blocked, you'd complain about stumbling at full throttle and maybe trouble running cold when it's requiring a higher flow of fuel. Odds are it's not been replaced and you're over 100K. GM doesn't set a mileage for changing them out.

phillyfrank · February 2009

Is the fuel gauge sender also called a float assembly? Is it the sensor that shows you how much gas you have? If so, I had a new one installed 3 years ago. When I turn my ignition, before I start the car, I can hear a humm from the rear, is that the fuel pump? Can anything else be causing low fuel pressure? Is it difficult to replace the pump in the 97 Pontiac Bonneville SE? Can I install it using these step by step instructions

">http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/fuel_pump_repl.htm>

Thank You for all of your help

imidazol97 · February 2009

Do you have the receipts that shows just what was installed. They should have replaced the whole sender which includes the pipes coming out from the tank and over to the side of the car on that model, IF I understand the breakdown on that one. The fuel pump should have been replaced while they were in there. That tank is hard to lower and get into so any time one it's dropped the whole pump and sender should be replaced.

I'm wondering if there's a problem with the pump if it was replaced. Lots of replacements have come up failing, especially the cheap ones. If a pump is suspected, the only way to do it is use duct tape to fasten a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield facing the driver and drive it and see if the pressure falters when it gives problems.

ezlead · March 2009

Before going to a large expense on fuel pumps and the like,have the GD burgler alarm system checked. It is the most worthless system that GM ever put on a car.
My 97 bonneville does the same thing and it is in the key and ignition switch.
When it is warm the switch does not recognize the key and it disables the fuel system. It just cranks and cranks. It even does it sometimes driving down the road
Then you get a big backfire. Wait for it to cool off.
There is a way to bypass it. It costs about 20 bucks.
Or like me,my brother is an electronics expert and he is going to bypass it for me.

imidazol97 · March 2009

> burgler alarm system checked. It is the most worthless system that GM ever put on a car.

I'm confused if you are talking about an actual burglar system installed aftermarket (GD is the brand?) or the alarm system built into the car as an option from the factory or the VATS system.

Bad news: the VATS system will NOT shut down a car once the starting process has occurred. So it's not the etymology of the backfire.

A little info: the VATS system reads the resistance in the key at startup attempt. If the resistance read is not correct, it won't let the injectors or the starter work. So if your car is cranking, the VATS system has allowed the key resistance to be within 10% of the nominal reading for which it was at the factory start.

The fuel pump in the tank is NOT part of the VATS system.

Bypassing the VATS system where the wires in the tilt column have broken partly or completely or the contacts at the key cylinder have worn and don't contact the key chip correctly is a pack of resistors ($1.99 for pack of 5, may need more than one combination) from Radio Shack and solder them into series and connect that across the connections at the connector at the bottom of the steering column. You are replacing the resistance-reading wires that go up the column so the resistance always is correct. However, now any key will start the car as long as it can turn the lock cylinder with or without a resistance chip.

If you are getting a backfire, I'd look to the fuel system pump or the ignition system, wires, plugs, ignition control under the coils or the coils themselves. Then there is the possibility you're not getting a spark signal from the CPS. You could even have a more esoteric electrical connection problem.

But my first guess (for what it's worth--I didn't win the $212 mil in Mega Lotto last night, so my luck's not very good) would be fuel system. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield if it does it frequently enough you think you might catch it. I'm assuming the pump hasn't been replaced and the car has more than 100,000 miles.

gmman3 · March 2009

i had similar problem on 88 bonn le. turned out to be the harmonic balancer.

imidazol97 · March 2009

I doubt jus88 is going to get the reply. The post is from 2000.

rbullock440 · March 2009

At what % of oil life should it be changed? I couldn't find it in the owner's manual.

imidazol97 · March 2009

I don't rely on Oil Life indicators for my two motors. One has a digital readout and I change about 40-25%. If I were to go the full lifetime, I'd be changing at 10,000 mi sometimes. I change from 4000-5000 in the newer car. I keep looking at the oil on the dipstick as my gauge. I drip a couple of drops onto a white paper towel and compare the dark partical center ring along with the color. When that gets up to a point, I change it and the filter. If that car got mostly short trip drives in the winter, it gets changed sooner especially when I can smell gasoline on the oil on the dipstick from the cold running where it doesn't get warm enough long enough to purge the condesates from the oil.

My other car just has a light that comes on and I change that a little sooner because it doesn't get the long trip drives any more.

rbullock440 · March 2009

Thanx 4 the reply. I use full synthetic so I can go about 15K between changes. I drive about 2K/mo. and can't see changing it every 6 weeks! I was just wondering how the computer analyzes the oil to determine it's remaining life. Thanx again.
-rob

imidazol97 · March 2009

Synthetic..., I never even thought of mentioning that. Your driving the only style that would warrant synthetic in a normal car (nor a Corvette, e.g.). Lots of miles without short trips to pollute the oil matrix.

The oil life indicator only measures the engine temps, speeds, outside temps, drive time between shutoffs, and maybe some others to predict when REGULAR oil of quality would need to be replaced. I've read lots of discussion about variation between types of synthetics and it sounds like you've done that homework to pick what you need. Use a good oil filter. And you if you do your own, you can always change the oil filter, add a little oil back, and drive longer if your oil and climate and car warrant that. I'd send in an oil analysis the next time you're at the end of your 15K interval to see how much life is left in the oil.

Synthetic oil-EdmundsThere's a forum on here about Synthetics and oil testing. There are some people there who can help you with info and testing.

If I can offer other advice, change the fluid in the transmission regularly as well. Maybe every 40K at most. I'd suggest Dexron VI which Walmart sells also for the replacement. It's a higher quality oil. They skipped from Dexron III to Dexron VI.

rbullock440 · March 2009

Thanx again. Great advice!

rbullock440 · March 2009

Does anyone know what this means?

rbullock440 · March 2009

Hi...I see you have had the same problem I have just recently faced on '03 bonne. I know your post was 8 years ago!, but did you ever find out what is was? thanx.

rbullock440 · March 2009

Hi...I know your post is 3 years old, but was wondering did you ever resolve the ABS & Traction Control lights that stay on? I'm having the same problem with my '03. Thanx.

rbullock440 · March 2009

Hi...I know your post is 2 years old, but I'm having the same problem on my '03. Were you able to resolve the issue? Thanx.

92bonny · March 2009

So I have a 92 Bonneville SE with about 225,000 miles that's been giving me quite a few problems. It all started about 1 month ago. At first the car would shake while I was stopped at a red light, sometimes even turning off. I started noticing that this would only happen when I had the radio, the heater, the lights, etc. on, I also noticed that the battery gauge needle would get kind of low almost below 12V. So I took both the battery and alternator to get checked and it turned out the battery was bad. I replaced the battery and no more turning off, but eventually the shaking started back up again, a few times it even backfired when I accelerated. So then I changed the wires, spark plugs and one coil (it had some white build up on the terminals), again no more shaking or backfiring for about a day or two, eventually it started shaking again and only while stopped at a light.

Finally decided to take it the mechanic and he put the code reader on it and he said it was a Code 41, Camshaft Sensor. There I go changing the camshaft sensor, though this would solve the problem but as soon as I installed it and turned it back on the car was even worse. It was REALLY shaking now, almost like a misfire. For whatever reason I decided to disconnect the sensor and start it back up, I guess I was just curious. Started up fine, no shaking at all, been driving it a two to three days now without ay problem so I left the sensor disconnected just because I got tired of dealing with it.

But, just yesterday, again while stopped at a light, the car feels like it's accelerating on it's own, no shaking though. It wont do it all the time but it's starting to worry me. Anybody have any suggestions? HELP!

imidazol97 · March 2009

Hard to diagnose.

People often have to replace crankshaft position sensor.

People sometimes have to change the spark control unit that the coils mount on top of.

People sometimes find it's fuel pressure from the pump in the tank. Can you duct tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield while driving to see if it drops below the require psi? maybe your mechanic will loan you one and tell you the psi necessary.

seho · March 2009

My daughters '92 bonne tail lights recently stopped working. All the other lights work fine (brake lights, flashers, turn indicators, etc.) I removed all grounds, cleaned and reconnected, checked all bulbs, still nothing. The fuse block diagram and manual diagram don't identify any particular fuse or relay for tail lights or running lights. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

larry1956 · March 2009

When you say tail light are you saying no stop/turn/tail. What about license plate light-is it working? If all are dead suspect wire harness problem. Does your daughter like to jump ditches along side the road like mine use to? Be very specific when posting back, please.

seho · March 2009

All other lights work fine. The only lights that don't work are the tail lights. Brake lights work, turn indicators work, hazard lights work, every other light on the vehicle works. Only the tail lights do not work.

imidazol97 · March 2009

You need to see a circuit diagram and find the connectors to check all along the circuit for ground and power when the lights are turned on.

One way is buy your own factory service manual which was originally printed by Helm Inc. helminc.com. That'll be about $120 including shipping if I recall.

You can buy a used version on eBay. You need to know if it was two volumes or one; many people offer one volume and people pay the price thinking it's the whole thing.
It looks like the SE and SSE have different manuals. I found this one by a GM dealer who's selling some. The picture shows sse and ssei on the cover. AT $23 plus shipping I'd jump on it, my personal opinion.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Pontiac-Bonneville-GM-Factory-Service-Manual- - - - _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem130269699926QQitemZ1302- - - - 69699926QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

I searched for pontiac 1992 factory service manual. Remember it looks like this is two volumes based on the picture in the one I found for SSE and it looks like the base model has a different service manual than the high trim models.

Some people buy a DVD with supposedly the service manuals for several years. I bought one and can't get it to work on my computers. So be careful of those.

A third method is your local library. Many libraries offer all their databases through your home computer. Even if you're a small library they often share with larger ones. But AllData is not available through your home computer access because of the cost structure. But you can go to the local branch and use their public computer to access the AllData for your car. You can print out the pages that show the circuits and the grounds and the connector locations (where they're buried). Or I took a thumb drive and plugged it into the computer and saved the graphics and pages (as html) to the thumb drive. I would save multiple ways in case one one work on your home computer. You also may be able to save to a floppy diskette or CD depending on the library computer setup for security.

EDIT: another thought is that the taillights may be a different circuit out of the headlight switch. Do they work on Park setting on the switch? Do the front parking lights work? Check the circuit diagram and them check to see if power is coming from the headlight switch. I believe I've read of a few Bonneville headlights switch problems--the connectors also may heat up due to poor connection and not make good contact due to burns.

rbullock440 · March 2009

How do you replace the speed sensor on a '03 Bonne? Traction control, Brake, and ABS lights stay on....

rbullock440 · March 2009

Does this have to do with the speed sensors? How do you replace them?

dmg24 · April 2009

My son has a 2001 ssei that ran out of gas, and now he can't get it started. He got it started twice, once for about 5 seconds, and the other for about 2 before it shut off. My question is, since it appears to be starving for gas, do you think it may just be the fuel filter that is clogged with gunk from the tank, or could it still be the pump? How difficult, and what is the procedure for replacing both the filter and pump? Could it also be the fuel sensor? Thanks for any help you can give me.

imidazol97 · April 2009

I would change the fuel filter, just in case what you suggest happened. But there's a sock over the intake in the tank that catches a lot of stuff. Has the tank had enough fuel put in to prime it? Running low may have overheated the pump; the gasoline serves to cool it.

The access is easy. It is a plate on the front of the trunk floor. The pump and intake along with float come out in a geometry puzzle type of movement. There are videos on replacing the thing on Utube. Be sure to get a new seal from a GM dealer based on what people say. If you take it out, I'd suggest a delco replacement. Others have luck with and bad luck with other brands.

Does the pump run when the key is turned on?

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure?

dmg24 · April 2009

Thanks for the help. The pump runs with the key on, as I have tried to "prime" it by letting it kick on for a second or two before I actually try to start it.

It has about 4 gallons of gas in it now, and I'm not sure if that is enough or not. And no, I do not have a fuel pressure guage.

Is the fuel filter located along the rail close to the tank? I'm going to try that first, and if that isn't it, I'll replace the pump with a Delco. Thanks for your help.

imidazol97 · April 2009

I just suggest looking underneath to see where the tubes go that leave the tank. I don't know on which side the fuel filter is.

I'd beg, borrow, buy a pressure gauge just to check. The pressure should be in the 40s but I'm not sure how high.

Try turning key on for 3 seconds, then off, then on for 3, etc. On the motor is a Schraeder valve that you can press in to check for fuel pressure even without a gauge. Put a towel over the spray direction. Do not do with a hot motor or cigarette, etc. That would check for fuel pressure, but it might be 35 instead of 42 or whatever is required at the and look like a healthy pressure.

dmg24 · April 2009

I'm not much of a motorhead, but I have a friend coming to help me tomorrow. I'll try to get a fuel pressure gauge before then. Where is the Schraeder valve on the engine? I don't have the car here so I can't go outside and look at it. I'll get my son to try turning the key on for 3 seconds a few times before starting it, like you suggest. Again, thanks for all the help.

imidazol97 · April 2009

Above the thermostat housing, up on the fuel rail, is a small canister about the size of 35 mm film container. It has a valve on it covered by a plastic cap like a tire valve cap. There you are. Right front upper corner of motor (facing the motor).

dmg24 · April 2009

IT'S FIXED!!! I got my son to go out and do the 3 second thing a few times and it started right up!!! Thank you so much for the help! Also, I found a couple of videos on youtube that helped me at least know what the Shraeder valve looks like(along with your help). This forum is awesome. Wish I could buy you a beer or two for saving me some cash. Thanks again.

imidazol97 · April 2009

> buy you a beer or two for saving me some cash

>buy you a beer or two for saving me some cash

Errr, let me give you my address. Grin.

Thanks for coming back; sometimes people forget to do that. It helps me and helps others. Remember don't run fuel low. I keep above 3/8. Sometimes kids are bad about driving on fumes to not put money into their fuel tank.

for others following this here are three videos showing how to replace fuel pump and sender (gauge sender). This guy is actually repairing the gauge part on the fuel pump which sometimes wore and didn't make good contact. But the videos are GREAT!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7cY_IPCVfI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FST1whbcOk8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N16YmV9xcw

Karen_S · April 2009

Nice job and thanks for being helpful to others!

bonneville96 · April 2009

My trunk "opener" has snapped broken and I cannot find a replacement.
It is a long metal torsion rod that is installed somehow between the trunk hinges and it helps to open the trunk by twisting itself.
So now I have to lift all the trunk weight by myself. It is a nice workout but not as nice when your hands are full of shopping bags.
Does anyone know how to properly call this part? Everybody calls it different names online, and I am not sure what to search for on car-parts websites.

imidazol97 · April 2009

A thought is if both pieces are there, you might have the two welded back together. I've read of someone doing that with a similar setup on an earlier year. I don't know if they can be welded in the car with the tension off the end.

The rods are available from gmpartsdirect.com with right or left and one is $14 andother $21 plus shipping. I don't know which is which.

Removing them says you remove the C pillar trim snaps off, remove the rear deck under the window and then can remove the bolts for the hinge. The trunk lide has to be supported...

The piece is a torque rod.
A local recycler may be able to pull one out for you. Recycler means junkyard. :grin.

I'll check the 98 Factory service manual for LeSabre to see if that's the removal technique but that will be tomorrow. I have a ballgame tonight.

bonneville96 · April 2009

Thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately, welding doesn't seem to be an option. The rod is made of hardened steel. I talked to my mechanic, and he said that it is likely to break again if we try to weld the pieces together.
I also checked 2 junkyards nearby and they do not have it.

As for the "torque rod", this is not it. The one I need is located kind of parallel to the torque rod. It is a one-piece 1/3"-thick rod with some bends at the ends, and a rubberlike sleeve in the middle.

I checked Chilton repair manual for 86-99 GM cars and it only explains how to remove the trunk lid, but does not go any further.

From your experience, does it necessarily have to be the part from '96 Bonneville, or the one from LeSabre or Olds could fit?

bonneville96 · June 2009

I would like to retract my last posting.
You were right. It is the torque rod. I got it from www.gmpartsdirect.com. The problem is that their illustration was very confusing and did not show the rod the way it is. It shows only one part, where in fact there are two rods.

Thank you so much.

P.S. It is weird but I went to about 10 junkyards before finding it online, and nobody had it. I guess they just did not want to bother going and removing it from a salvaged car. In fact, one junkyard said they might have had it, but if they did, it would cost $50, which is twice what I paid for the new one.

imidazol97 · June 2009

I appreciate your apologizing. But I am wrong on occasion also. I learn a lot from these forums. I appreciate even more your coming back to tell others what you learned and where you got the part.

The junkyards may not want to remove the old rods because I think it requires taking off the trunk lid and removing the back shelf inside the car--if I understood my service manual correctly. It's been a while since I looked that up in my 98 service manual so I again may be wrong. To take off the rear package deck you pop off the two covers on the side panels (C-pillar) and take out the back seat to get at the bolts. Probably not a big job, just irritating.

You may be able to get it replaced without doing all that...

bonneville96 · June 2009

I replaced it at a shop. And, fortunately, we did not have to go through all that routine that you described. Maybe it was not the most proper way, but the mechanic just unscrewed one bolt securing the hinge to the body from inside the trunk, while I was supporting the trunk lid, and then the hinge lowered a bit so, that we were able to insert the loop-shaped end of the rod into position. After that he screwed the hinge back on.
Then he twisted the other end of the rod with a metal pipe and secured it in a groove on the other hinge. The whole operation took about 15 minutes, but it requires at least 2 people (one to do the job, and the other to support the lid), and some extra tools.

bonneville96 · June 2009

One more quick question for you, experts.
My belt has been making some chirping noise for a while. Not constantly, mostly when it was cold and humid outside, and usually the noise disappeared after the engine was hot.
Several people told me that if you put a little lubricant on the belt, it is O'K, and it helped to eliminate the noise for some time.
Last time I went to my mechanic, he sprayed the belt with WD40 (maybe a little too much), and it helped with the noise for several hours, but now the noise is back and it gets worse when I hit the gas.
Otherwise the belt seems to be good, no cracks or wear, I've had it replaced maybe 3 years ago, and only added about 10-15 kMiles during this time.

Is it time to replace the belt, or do I have other options, like degreasing it or something?

subie956 · June 2009

I have a Pontiac Bonneville 2000 sle, It seems to be pulling to the left a bit. I am hearing different reports on certain pontiacs that need a certain style of alignment. A regular alignemnt and some vehicles need a more indept alignment. Does this style pontiac require such an alignment? Thanks

imidazol97 · June 2009

Did the WD40 treatment change the noise when the car was started cold?

I don't recommend putting anything, anything on the belts. Your problem is how to remove the lubricant that's now on the belt?

My first check would be if the belt is causing the noise or if it's an idle pulley. Or perhaps a water pump starting to make noise.

The real test there is when the car makes the noise, such as cold, take off the belt and and manually rotate various pulleys to see if they make any noise, have any looseness or wobble.

Then spray with a water bottle or a plant misting bottle to see if the belt makes a noise when water is put on it as the car is started COLD.

As I've indicated, I suspect something else other than the belt unless it's an inexpensive belt and there's something about how they're made that they're prone to noise. The water test can determine if the problem is the belt or it's a rotating part that makes a noise cold and that will continue even with water squirted on the belt.

imidazol97 · June 2009

Pulling.

First, your tires. How long have they been on the car in miles? Have they been rotated correctly every 6-8000 miles? Move the right and left front tires on the car to the opposite side and see if the pull moves with the tire change?

Then it's time to start checking alignment if the tires aren't causing the problem with a bad belt in one causing a lead.

The alignment needs to be spot on to the exact recommended setting. You don't want one of the fast food places where they determine the setting is within specs therefore they don't put it to the ideal. You're paying to align and you expect a correct, full alignment.

A good shop should check the parts in the steering and suspension. In some salty areas a few H-bodies have had a toe-in adjustable link on the _rear_ suspension break, but people usually find the car feeling floppy over bumps because of the lack of control on the toe-in for the rear.

bonneville96 · July 2009

Eventually it turned out to be only the belt problem.
I tried removing the lubricants from the belt with a coarse brush, then windex and bounty, while the engine was idling. Actually it eliminated the noise for a while, but not for long and then it came back only worse.
Then, one morning I started the engine and while starting it made some snapping sounds. I drove straight to my mechanic and on the way there the engine started making continuous rattling noise, like the belt fibers were breaking and beating around. However, when I got to the shop and we removed the belt, it looked absolutely perfect, without any cracks or excessive wear.
Anyway, we replaced it and since then the engine runs smoothly without any noise.

Moreover, I just made two round trips to Cape Cod (1200 miles totally) in a week recently and noticed that my gas-mileage improved significantly. If previously it was making 18-19 highway mpg, now it makes 27-28 mpg. Can it be related to a new belt?

jlbpa · July 2009

I'm trying to replace the outer boot on a 90 bonneville but it's not obvious to me how to get the joint separated from the axle so I can slide the new boot on. I was expecting to see some sort of clip but I don't see one. I've read and seen on the internet that some joints are removed from the axle by whacking it with a hammer in order to overcome a "circlip" . Is that what I must do.....force the joint from the axle? Or is there a snap clip some where that I need to remove with snap ring pliers????

Thanks
Jim

Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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