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Comments
The bolts around the UIM develope seeps which wick up oil and in some cases coolant which pools in the low spots such as around the bolt in the middle of the picture. The UIM is dry in that area so it's not going to seep them. The coolant goes through the UIM at the throttle body seals between it and the throttle body and about an inch to the left of that where the coolant goes from the metal lower into the ABS upper manifold. You're going to see external coolant in those areas if there are seal problems.
The second picture shows a gooey clamp around the CV joint on the axle. Is it leaking grease--that's bad and needs to be check or fixed before joint fails. I see an orange brown tone on the belt and the pulley for the water pump. That suggests to me the water pump may be seeping; that's a wear item. When car's parked hot so coolant is under pressure you might be able to see a seep if you use a mechanics mirror to look into the backside of the water pump pulley there. The o-rings on the plastic elbow that comes out of the LIM to the idler housing may also seep in that area. You will be able to easily see brown coolant trail if that's occuring.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You need to find if you're getting a timing pulse and I believe their suggestion was use a 197 bulb, like is in the side market and rear lights on our cars. Straighten the prongs out straight and put one into a fuel injector lead--remove it from the injector and just stick the bulb in while someone cranks the car. If there's no flash, then the injectors are not getting a timing pulse. You might set this up and test in advance to be sure you know how to unsnap the injector lead and put in the 197 bulb leads and that you get flashes. Then when it won't start, stick in the bulb and try.
You need to diagnose if you are missing spark or fuel. If the injectors are working, then have a spare spark plug and pull off a spark plug wire and lay it with your spare plug against a metal part of the motor and crank to see if you're getting spark. Last, you can spray a starting assist fluid into the throttle body while cranking if you know you have spark and know you have injectors pulsing. If it starts then you can suspect fuel pressure and delivery from the tank.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Another commong finding is a vacuum leak. Little rubber tubing deteriorates and cracks or just rots especially near ends or hot spots on the motor. Using carburetor spray around the tubing and edges of the UIM and throttle body might locate a leak for you.
The IAC can go bad. The MAF sensor can be not working properly. Some people have luck troubleshooting MAF by simply unplugging it and starting the car. If it runs better with it disconnected for idle and low speeds, you may have found your problem. The MAF can be cleaned with chemicals like alchol or MAF cleaners from the parts store, but do not touch the wires. A soft brush might be used.
If your mechanic feels it's the fuel pump, he might be right. They deteriorate. The replacement with a quality pump is expensive. A lot of people put in the cheap pumps and end up replacing them again within a year because they fail. The pump replacement also means replacing the tubes and fuel gauge sender. The tank must be dropped on that year car.
The fuel filter, likely not your problem, is below the passenger side on the right. It's inside the rail. The tubing in front will be partly rusted and brittle. Use a tubing wrench for good even grip on the nut. The other end is a snap connector to the flexible tubing that goes toward the tank. If it were blocked, you'd complain about stumbling at full throttle and maybe trouble running cold when it's requiring a higher flow of fuel. Odds are it's not been replaced and you're over 100K. GM doesn't set a mileage for changing them out.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
">http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/fuel_pump_repl.htm>
Thank You for all of your help
I'm wondering if there's a problem with the pump if it was replaced. Lots of replacements have come up failing, especially the cheap ones. If a pump is suspected, the only way to do it is use duct tape to fasten a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield facing the driver and drive it and see if the pressure falters when it gives problems.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My 97 bonneville does the same thing and it is in the key and ignition switch.
When it is warm the switch does not recognize the key and it disables the fuel system. It just cranks and cranks. It even does it sometimes driving down the road
Then you get a big backfire. Wait for it to cool off.
There is a way to bypass it. It costs about 20 bucks.
Or like me,my brother is an electronics expert and he is going to bypass it for me.
I'm confused if you are talking about an actual burglar system installed aftermarket (GD is the brand?) or the alarm system built into the car as an option from the factory or the VATS system.
Bad news: the VATS system will NOT shut down a car once the starting process has occurred. So it's not the etymology of the backfire.
A little info: the VATS system reads the resistance in the key at startup attempt. If the resistance read is not correct, it won't let the injectors or the starter work. So if your car is cranking, the VATS system has allowed the key resistance to be within 10% of the nominal reading for which it was at the factory start.
The fuel pump in the tank is NOT part of the VATS system.
Bypassing the VATS system where the wires in the tilt column have broken partly or completely or the contacts at the key cylinder have worn and don't contact the key chip correctly is a pack of resistors ($1.99 for pack of 5, may need more than one combination) from Radio Shack and solder them into series and connect that across the connections at the connector at the bottom of the steering column. You are replacing the resistance-reading wires that go up the column so the resistance always is correct. However, now any key will start the car as long as it can turn the lock cylinder with or without a resistance chip.
If you are getting a backfire, I'd look to the fuel system pump or the ignition system, wires, plugs, ignition control under the coils or the coils themselves. Then there is the possibility you're not getting a spark signal from the CPS. You could even have a more esoteric electrical connection problem.
But my first guess (for what it's worth--I didn't win the $212 mil in Mega Lotto last night, so my luck's not very good) would be fuel system. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield if it does it frequently enough you think you might catch it. I'm assuming the pump hasn't been replaced and the car has more than 100,000 miles.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My other car just has a light that comes on and I change that a little sooner because it doesn't get the long trip drives any more.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
-rob
The oil life indicator only measures the engine temps, speeds, outside temps, drive time between shutoffs, and maybe some others to predict when REGULAR oil of quality would need to be replaced. I've read lots of discussion about variation between types of synthetics and it sounds like you've done that homework to pick what you need. Use a good oil filter. And you if you do your own, you can always change the oil filter, add a little oil back, and drive longer if your oil and climate and car warrant that. I'd send in an oil analysis the next time you're at the end of your 15K interval to see how much life is left in the oil.
Synthetic oil-EdmundsThere's a forum on here about Synthetics and oil testing. There are some people there who can help you with info and testing.
If I can offer other advice, change the fluid in the transmission regularly as well. Maybe every 40K at most. I'd suggest Dexron VI which Walmart sells also for the replacement. It's a higher quality oil. They skipped from Dexron III to Dexron VI.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Finally decided to take it the mechanic and he put the code reader on it and he said it was a Code 41, Camshaft Sensor. There I go changing the camshaft sensor, though this would solve the problem but as soon as I installed it and turned it back on the car was even worse. It was REALLY shaking now, almost like a misfire. For whatever reason I decided to disconnect the sensor and start it back up, I guess I was just curious. Started up fine, no shaking at all, been driving it a two to three days now without ay problem so I left the sensor disconnected just because I got tired of dealing with it.
But, just yesterday, again while stopped at a light, the car feels like it's accelerating on it's own, no shaking though. It wont do it all the time but it's starting to worry me. Anybody have any suggestions? HELP!
People often have to replace crankshaft position sensor.
People sometimes have to change the spark control unit that the coils mount on top of.
People sometimes find it's fuel pressure from the pump in the tank. Can you duct tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield while driving to see if it drops below the require psi? maybe your mechanic will loan you one and tell you the psi necessary.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
One way is buy your own factory service manual which was originally printed by Helm Inc. helminc.com. That'll be about $120 including shipping if I recall.
You can buy a used version on eBay. You need to know if it was two volumes or one; many people offer one volume and people pay the price thinking it's the whole thing.
It looks like the SE and SSE have different manuals. I found this one by a GM dealer who's selling some. The picture shows sse and ssei on the cover. AT $23 plus shipping I'd jump on it, my personal opinion.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Pontiac-Bonneville-GM-Factory-Service-Manual- - - - _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem130269699926QQitemZ1302- - - - 69699926QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature
I searched for pontiac 1992 factory service manual. Remember it looks like this is two volumes based on the picture in the one I found for SSE and it looks like the base model has a different service manual than the high trim models.
Some people buy a DVD with supposedly the service manuals for several years. I bought one and can't get it to work on my computers. So be careful of those.
A third method is your local library. Many libraries offer all their databases through your home computer. Even if you're a small library they often share with larger ones. But AllData is not available through your home computer access because of the cost structure. But you can go to the local branch and use their public computer to access the AllData for your car. You can print out the pages that show the circuits and the grounds and the connector locations (where they're buried). Or I took a thumb drive and plugged it into the computer and saved the graphics and pages (as html) to the thumb drive. I would save multiple ways in case one one work on your home computer. You also may be able to save to a floppy diskette or CD depending on the library computer setup for security.
EDIT: another thought is that the taillights may be a different circuit out of the headlight switch. Do they work on Park setting on the switch? Do the front parking lights work? Check the circuit diagram and them check to see if power is coming from the headlight switch. I believe I've read of a few Bonneville headlights switch problems--the connectors also may heat up due to poor connection and not make good contact due to burns.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The access is easy. It is a plate on the front of the trunk floor. The pump and intake along with float come out in a geometry puzzle type of movement. There are videos on replacing the thing on Utube. Be sure to get a new seal from a GM dealer based on what people say. If you take it out, I'd suggest a delco replacement. Others have luck with and bad luck with other brands.
Does the pump run when the key is turned on?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It has about 4 gallons of gas in it now, and I'm not sure if that is enough or not. And no, I do not have a fuel pressure guage.
Is the fuel filter located along the rail close to the tank? I'm going to try that first, and if that isn't it, I'll replace the pump with a Delco. Thanks for your help.
I'd beg, borrow, buy a pressure gauge just to check. The pressure should be in the 40s but I'm not sure how high.
Try turning key on for 3 seconds, then off, then on for 3, etc. On the motor is a Schraeder valve that you can press in to check for fuel pressure even without a gauge. Put a towel over the spray direction. Do not do with a hot motor or cigarette, etc. That would check for fuel pressure, but it might be 35 instead of 42 or whatever is required at the and look like a healthy pressure.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
>buy you a beer or two for saving me some cash
Errr, let me give you my address. Grin.
Thanks for coming back; sometimes people forget to do that. It helps me and helps others. Remember don't run fuel low. I keep above 3/8. Sometimes kids are bad about driving on fumes to not put money into their fuel tank.
for others following this here are three videos showing how to replace fuel pump and sender (gauge sender). This guy is actually repairing the gauge part on the fuel pump which sometimes wore and didn't make good contact. But the videos are GREAT!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7cY_IPCVfI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FST1whbcOk8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N16YmV9xcw
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It is a long metal torsion rod that is installed somehow between the trunk hinges and it helps to open the trunk by twisting itself.
So now I have to lift all the trunk weight by myself. It is a nice workout but not as nice when your hands are full of shopping bags.
Does anyone know how to properly call this part? Everybody calls it different names online, and I am not sure what to search for on car-parts websites.
The rods are available from gmpartsdirect.com with right or left and one is $14 andother $21 plus shipping. I don't know which is which.
Removing them says you remove the C pillar trim snaps off, remove the rear deck under the window and then can remove the bolts for the hinge. The trunk lide has to be supported...
The piece is a torque rod.
A local recycler may be able to pull one out for you. Recycler means junkyard. :grin.
I'll check the 98 Factory service manual for LeSabre to see if that's the removal technique but that will be tomorrow. I have a ballgame tonight.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I also checked 2 junkyards nearby and they do not have it.
As for the "torque rod", this is not it. The one I need is located kind of parallel to the torque rod. It is a one-piece 1/3"-thick rod with some bends at the ends, and a rubberlike sleeve in the middle.
I checked Chilton repair manual for 86-99 GM cars and it only explains how to remove the trunk lid, but does not go any further.
From your experience, does it necessarily have to be the part from '96 Bonneville, or the one from LeSabre or Olds could fit?
You were right. It is the torque rod. I got it from www.gmpartsdirect.com. The problem is that their illustration was very confusing and did not show the rod the way it is. It shows only one part, where in fact there are two rods.
Thank you so much.
P.S. It is weird but I went to about 10 junkyards before finding it online, and nobody had it. I guess they just did not want to bother going and removing it from a salvaged car. In fact, one junkyard said they might have had it, but if they did, it would cost $50, which is twice what I paid for the new one.
The junkyards may not want to remove the old rods because I think it requires taking off the trunk lid and removing the back shelf inside the car--if I understood my service manual correctly. It's been a while since I looked that up in my 98 service manual so I again may be wrong. To take off the rear package deck you pop off the two covers on the side panels (C-pillar) and take out the back seat to get at the bolts. Probably not a big job, just irritating.
You may be able to get it replaced without doing all that...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Then he twisted the other end of the rod with a metal pipe and secured it in a groove on the other hinge. The whole operation took about 15 minutes, but it requires at least 2 people (one to do the job, and the other to support the lid), and some extra tools.
My belt has been making some chirping noise for a while. Not constantly, mostly when it was cold and humid outside, and usually the noise disappeared after the engine was hot.
Several people told me that if you put a little lubricant on the belt, it is O'K, and it helped to eliminate the noise for some time.
Last time I went to my mechanic, he sprayed the belt with WD40 (maybe a little too much), and it helped with the noise for several hours, but now the noise is back and it gets worse when I hit the gas.
Otherwise the belt seems to be good, no cracks or wear, I've had it replaced maybe 3 years ago, and only added about 10-15 kMiles during this time.
Is it time to replace the belt, or do I have other options, like degreasing it or something?
I don't recommend putting anything, anything on the belts. Your problem is how to remove the lubricant that's now on the belt?
My first check would be if the belt is causing the noise or if it's an idle pulley. Or perhaps a water pump starting to make noise.
The real test there is when the car makes the noise, such as cold, take off the belt and and manually rotate various pulleys to see if they make any noise, have any looseness or wobble.
Then spray with a water bottle or a plant misting bottle to see if the belt makes a noise when water is put on it as the car is started COLD.
As I've indicated, I suspect something else other than the belt unless it's an inexpensive belt and there's something about how they're made that they're prone to noise. The water test can determine if the problem is the belt or it's a rotating part that makes a noise cold and that will continue even with water squirted on the belt.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
First, your tires. How long have they been on the car in miles? Have they been rotated correctly every 6-8000 miles? Move the right and left front tires on the car to the opposite side and see if the pull moves with the tire change?
Then it's time to start checking alignment if the tires aren't causing the problem with a bad belt in one causing a lead.
The alignment needs to be spot on to the exact recommended setting. You don't want one of the fast food places where they determine the setting is within specs therefore they don't put it to the ideal. You're paying to align and you expect a correct, full alignment.
A good shop should check the parts in the steering and suspension. In some salty areas a few H-bodies have had a toe-in adjustable link on the _rear_ suspension break, but people usually find the car feeling floppy over bumps because of the lack of control on the toe-in for the rear.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I tried removing the lubricants from the belt with a coarse brush, then windex and bounty, while the engine was idling. Actually it eliminated the noise for a while, but not for long and then it came back only worse.
Then, one morning I started the engine and while starting it made some snapping sounds. I drove straight to my mechanic and on the way there the engine started making continuous rattling noise, like the belt fibers were breaking and beating around. However, when I got to the shop and we removed the belt, it looked absolutely perfect, without any cracks or excessive wear.
Anyway, we replaced it and since then the engine runs smoothly without any noise.
Moreover, I just made two round trips to Cape Cod (1200 miles totally) in a week recently and noticed that my gas-mileage improved significantly. If previously it was making 18-19 highway mpg, now it makes 27-28 mpg. Can it be related to a new belt?
Thanks
Jim