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Comments
It could be the tires - a slightly separated belt or an imperfection in the sidewall of just one tire could easily be the culprit here. Those Eagles are great tires (I love mine) but I'm suspecting a latent and minor defect. The earlier you can get it diagnosed and fixed, the better for the rest of your tires, your suspension and your peace of mind!
BTW, other possibilities include a bent or warped rim, loose or bent suspension components or even sticky brake calipers (although you'd usually feel that more at low speeds). I've been through all of this (not on my '00 SLE you understand, on other cars!) and it can make for frustrating sleuthing. Ended up scrapping my tires and forking out $ to replace all four - the result was that the vehicle then drove like new and the problem didn't come back after a few thousand miles either.
Good luck! theiceman
Good Luck
Look on the Service Parts Identification Label on the spare tire cover.
It's a 93 bonni,134,000mi, had front hub/bearing replaced last year.
The noise is a heavy 'click' from the front when I do quick right turns or backing out of the garage.
It is if something is engaging into a slot under load. I was able to duplicate the noise with consistency when out on an empty lot twisting the car sharply from left-center-right-center.
It's a heavier click from the driver side on left-center turns - less noticible on the right-center turns.
Anyone had similar problem before? There are just too many possibilities up in the front of these cars for me to guess what has worn out.
There are many numbers. It seems to me that the color code ends with the letter U. There is the number 81U that could be my color. Am I right or do you know how to find out which number is the color one?
Peace
KZM
Thanks for the tip about the front-end mask. Sorry to hear about the damage to your Bonnie. I have been wanting to get one for my 2000 SSEi and not all the mask manufacturers seem to have one yet for this model. I was thinking of just getting the GM Accessories one even though I'm not sure it is of the best quality or value.
PAINT:
The number with the "U" (for "upper", "L" for lower if two-tone) is the paint code. What color this actually is you'll have to look in the Helm service manual or just ask the service or parts department at a GM dealer.
Ken
Too much vacuum.... that would suck.... get it?
The engine derives its vacuum by the pressure drop of air as it passes by the throttle. The engine induces the air to be pulled in but the throttle actually produces the vacuum at other than wide open throttle conditions. That's why there is no engine vacuum in the manifold at wide open throttle.
If the mechanic truly told you that too much vacuum was the culprit, I think I'd find another mechanic, one that isn't full of baloney.
dbaca- Yep only after the engine was warmed up and run for at least 20 minutes of driving would you hear the damn thing whistling, drove me nuts, I ended up drilling a 1/4" hole in the cap to get rid of the noise. Don't recommend doing this on a car, because my van had a remote oil fill tube under the hood where water didn't really find its way very easily.
alcan- I have seen your posts and you seem to have a really good backround in auto repair, have you ever seen or heard of this happening.
I have not experience any swing of the temperature. I just wrote that the temperature of the water should stay under 100°C, which is 212°F.
alcan - Yes, it was the first thing I did, but it did not help. However, I started to hear the noise exactly after the first oil change that included the replacement of the PCV valve. I bought the car as a used car and it was the first oil change. I thought that they could give me the faulty PCV valve, so I replaced it, but, as I said, it did not help.
I have a 95 SE I bought new that now has 64k miles. No problems 'til now, other than tires & brakes. I had fluid on the garage floor for a few days, but didn't identify it's source 'til now. I'm leaking water from what appears to be some kind of bypass hose above the water pump going into the Intake Manifold.
This sounds similar to the message above about the 92 or 93 Bonneville that had a bypass hose leak (found after replacing Water Pump), but this is the "Series II" 3800 V-6, if that matters.
Is this something I should be able to fix at home or do I need to take it to a garage. Water pumps, alternators, Serpentine belts, struts, even starters, OK. Pulling the entire Injector system, intake manifold?? No, thanks.
jgmilberg wrote that the air sucking is caused by worn out valve seals; however, you are saying that it is caused by worn out head rings. So, the question is what is the cause.
While not unheard of, it seems that anymore you rarely hear of worn piston rings, especially on a relatively low mileage engine such as the one that dbaca has. Perhaps if the oil change intervals were far longer than recommended, this might be a possibility.
If the car was overheating like that,have your cooling fan checked out. Most common thing to go bad is the sensor that turns the fan on, costs around $15-$20, just screws into the water jacket in the head. Normal operating temp is around 195 degrees F
mfahey1 - You are right about the smoke. During the winter, the car was too smoky even when idling.
jgmilberg1 - The pressure of oil is 40PSI when the engine is idling, and I guess around 70PSI when running. It applies for the warmed up engine. Of course, when the engine is cold the pressure is significantly higher. The cooling fans (there are two) work fain. When I let the car idling, I saw them turning on and off.
My car has 93000 miles on now. I use the car for commuting 50 miles every working day.