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Comments
First to "ssei"...
I actually had the problem a few months ago and did a complete tune up (including wires, & coil pack) that seemed to fix the problem. It came back, Then I had a shop test it. Apparently there was also a prob. with the control module under the pack. I had to replace it. Problem fixed? Only for about 1 month. The bad controller must have messed up the new coil pack? I don't know, they are electrical parts... That was the last thing I replaced on 9/11. So far so good...
In response to "hodgie1"...
Sorry I haven't looked back in a while...
The car did seem a bit under powered when I was having problems. This would be VERY consistent with missing sparks. A few times I noticed a little backfire when aggressively accelerating. This kinda led me to the "tune up" I spoke about. I would suggest a tune-up if your car is due. And definitely include wires... Let us know how you fared.
It's interesting to read about the "coil packs" (on various posts) maybe being the problem; in my case, though, the rebuilder ended up making some kind of "adjustments" to the valve body and this took care of the problem (car now has about 140,000 miles on it).
In city driving I now stay in "D", which seems to deliver more precise shifting generally. My last car was an 81 Buick Regal with a Turbo-Hydramatic transmission (3spd.), and I just wish all transmissions were that smooth & reliable.
Brad
What gives with the alternators? Of course GM says there isn't a problem w/Bville's. Mileage: 78,000.
New to the lists, have a 96 SLE with 71000 on it and starting to have problems and modify it. As far as the battery becoming discharged and the car dying, (for everyone), check your battery connections. It seems as if GM has used connectors that on some batteries will never tighten down. Check to see if both your negative and positive cables are tight by grasping them and trying to move them gently. If you do have the problem, the cable will easily move. I have had my car die while trying to start it, only to start on the next attempt. I have gone through two alternators and two batteries in about 42K. This would explain the fried battery connections in one of the posts I read. It may also be why the alternators fry. Don't know for sure yet, fixed my negative cable the other day.
OK on to the fix, don't expect dealer to do this for you!!!
The problem seems to be that the large post bolts that bolt into the battery are too long, and in some batteries, (maybe not AC Delco), they bottom out before the cable end is tight. Solution, gently pull the cable end bolt out of the rubber end. Thoroughly clean all parts, and use a washer under the bolt head to ensure the cable end tighten securely to the battery. DO NOT over tighten as this will ruin the post on the battery and cause an electrolyte leakage. The washer need not be that thick, usually standard thickness will work, although the last time I did this, I had to use a Dremel tool to make the hole in the washer bigger.
Sorry for the length, I think this might help out a great many of you.
Maybe we can get a recall and get Pontiac to fix permanently. Great car despite problems.
My current problem is with power steering. It works perfectly when car is cold or moving, but becomes very stiff after car has reached operating temperature and you I am trying to park. Increasing the rpm slightly seems to make turning easier.The other problem, that may be related, is a whine or buzzing sound that occurs when accelerating and seems to be more pronounced when turning corners. Could the power steering pump be faulty? I checked & changed the fluid. Car is 96 SSEI. Any suggestions?
I changed the power steering pump on my 96 SSEI and the problem is solved. The part was not expensive, only $124.00 at Canadian Tire and the job is fairly easy just difficult to reach. You have to feel for the bolts through the pump pulley.
I thought that changing the belts would be a good idea at this time but after much frustration realised that you have to remove the front motor mount to do this on the SSEI. This was a five minute job on my 91 Bonny.
To cyberex in post #76. My HUD display was blurry when I first got the car because someone had cleaned the dash with a shiny type of treatment and got it on the HUD. After cleaning with a soft cloth & a glass cleaner it looks fine.
I have a 2000 ssei with idle roughness in Park problem similar to #29. The dealer and I have looked at four different 2000 ssei vehicles, all with intermittent misfires on cylinder #4. My service manager forwarded the data (with VINs) to GM for research.
One of the many things changed in the 2000 car is the engine mounting. We believe this is a contributer to the rough idle. The amount of roughness gets worse as mileage adds up.
If any of you have a 2000 ssei with rough idle in Park, letting your dealer know can add more data so the engineers can develop a solution.
It's not: Ignition; fuel delivery, or valve train. My 5400-mile car just released from the shop after 10 days and a rebuilt cylinder head is a strong testament to that.
Otherwise, it's a great car. Stay tuned.
Thanks
The truck looks great! However, it took an excruciating long 8-9 hours for this stuff to dry. Ever have to wait to open your x-mas present?! It was about 45 deg and rainy outside so I'm to blame.
The leather treatment turned out nice as well. It goes on a little shiny but once it's absorbed into the leather, it leaves it feeling and smelling rich.
On the way to work today, some rude feathered creature decided to go on a bombing raid all over my hood. Picasso would have been proud. Got home later on in the day and lo and behold that stuff just flaked right off. A couple of soft swipes with a damp cloth and she was good as new.
Anyone know how long Sal and the gang have been around? I would be interested to hear about the experiences of long-time users.
atr
idles rough most time in drive or park, really acts up after hot, and shakes the entire car!
Dealer has no idea. This car has been in the shop 1-2 weeks every month for the past 10 months!
Computer failure, steering, fuel door, security, suspension, tires, wheel balance, brakes, rough idle, paint, low fuel milage, low SC boost.
Rough Idle, low fuel milage, low SC boost all not fixed, I guess they want us to wait until the warrenty runs out!
What a piece of #^#$!!!
For $34K I would expect better!
So I take it in (to the place that overhauled it the last time) for a fluid change, and they significantly overfill it.
When I call them on it, they tell me "GM won't tell you this, but there's a problem with these transmissions that requires you to fill it up more because these transmissions aren't getting enough fluid" !!!!!!!!!!!!
My natural assumption, actually, is that the transmission guy is full of it because he doesn't want to be bothered dealing with anything. But on the other hand, their rebuild is still under warranty (so he should have some incentive to get it right).
Is anyone aware of some "secret overfill" solution re GM transmissions?
Anyone know if you can run 89 octane fuel rather than 91 ?
Thanks.
Good luck with your new car!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I only have 91K miles on it and so far, I have had the alternator replaced at 37K, the waterpump at 90K, and my mechanic disconnected the tranny auto-lockup because I was having a problem with the tranny shifting late in stop and go situations (so far that has worked for me). I also had a warped ATF pan and was leaking ATF slowly, this has been solved by a trans service and something Orange (i dont know what he used) was added to the regular gasket to stop the leak.
Took it to a dealer and they diagnosed it as:
excessive clearance of tcc apply valve tcc is surging when in lockup, will not surge when full apply command is used with tech 2 r&r valve body and inspect tcc apply valve, found excessive clearance between valve and bore allowing pressure loss. replace valve body.
Whatever they did it fixed my problem and they did it at no charge!
problem hasn't returned and car is running fine.