Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

1202123252674

Comments

  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    IMHO, the companys that sell extended warranty contracts are here to make money.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    True...but so is the car company selling you your car. What's the point?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    yeah. what's the point?
    everybody is here to make money.
    even your kindself.
  • apollo_11apollo_11 Member Posts: 3
    Your situation was quite similar compared to mine...

    I had the 30K mile service (more like 33.5K) done about 2 weeks before the trip to Maine.

    During the trip, the O/D light started blinking, then reset itself after I shut the engine off when I got to a gas station. The transmission fluid level seemed okay.

    After two days (~300 miles), the O/D light came back on again... I pulled in to the nearest gas station since I needed to get gas anyway. This time the light did not reset and after a mile or so the check-engine came one. %$@$*%&!$
    Check the tranny fluid... seems okay, maybe burnt?

    Got it towed to the nearest Mazda dealership (~100 miles away!). Luckily the tow service was covered under Mazda's warranty.
    Got it back the next day for the drive back home. The service mechanic said they "topped off the transmission fluid".

    Drove it for ~10 miles and the O/D light started flashing again. Sigh.... I ignored it and kept on going!

    It did reset itself and hasn't come on since during my daily commutes.

    Interestingly enough the car drove just fine the entire time the O/D was flashing but I certainly was a bit concerned that the tranny might self-destruct...

    I'll drop it off to the local dealer.

    -Doug
  • elktonbrantelktonbrant Member Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Protege LX, 62k miles... Just took it to have oil changed and radiator flushed and filled (long trip coming up and it was time for scheduled maintenance.) About a mile up the road saw "Check Engine" light come on. When I got home it was still on, checked and found a screwdriver left over the drivers side headlight. Have driven it about 4 miles or so since and engine light is on. Have also checked the gas tank and it's on tightly. What could this be? I leave for a long trip in the next couple of days. Thank You.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    If it is flashing, the manual states to take it to the dealer immediately. The workshop manual says to check DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). If there are none, then use the symptom troubleshooting table. They probably chose the easiest thing to try, fill up the tranny fluid. I would take it back ASAP. There are a lot of things it could be. The hard part is that you are not experiencing anything but the idiot light.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    There is no way to diagnose this without a computer to read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Take it to a mechanic as soon as you can. At 60+k miles it is likely a sensor of some sort, although it could be many other things. Good Luck.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    Check your base timing....

    If it's pinging on lower octanes, and premium cures this...you got carbon deposits in the combustion chamber (which effectively increases the compression ratio).

    Try a can of BG44K with regular fuel (go on a nice long gentle drive), or pay over $100 for a decarburization service.
  • jolouzoomsjolouzooms Member Posts: 4
    Took my car for a two hour drive yesterday in 90+ degree weather. The air conditioning has never been serviced that I know of (purchased used). Cool air was intermittent halfway through the trip. Then, there was a putrid odor (smelled a LOT like nasty cigar smoke) and no more cool air. The fan was working fine. Got it home and garaged her. Tried the air again later and still no cool air. Popped the hood and ran the air while listening...heard a strange noise that appeared to be coming from a belt. The putrid smell was detected slightly when the air was turned on..Question: Is this possibly a compressor problem as in the compressor went out on me, or does anyone think it's merely a loss of refrigerant? Anyone have an idea of the worst case scenario cost to me would be? Can't do without air conditioning. Thanks.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Now, I'm no tech, but it sounds like it could be the compressor. I would avoid turning it on again because you may be burning something and that's what could be causing the cigar smell.

    Definitely take it in to get looked at.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I just had the A/C go out in my 95 Protege LX 5 spd. last week (146,000 miles). I did not get the burning smell you did, just no cold air and a whine from the bearings in the a/c unit.

    I had a local independent shop look at it and they first said they would try to just replace the clutch pack in the unit as this is what they felt was wrong. Unfortunately, there were no aftermarket replacement parts just for the clutch pack. So they had to order a new compressor unit(includes new clutch pack) from the local Mazda dealer to the tune of $360. With labor and tax the total bill was $516. It works like new again.

    On a similar note, I was driving when the a/c went out in our 88 Olds Delta 88 at 178,000 miles. I also noticed the burning smell when it happened. With this car, repairing the clutch pack was possible. The independent mechanic wanted $300 and the old beater, now used by our 16 year old daughter, just wasn't worth the repair. So I got a shorter belt from Auto Zone and just bypassed the system.

    Good Luck.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You've probably got a seized compressor, and the burning smell is the drive belt dragging on the compressor clutch pulley.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    I took my 02 Pro ES into a local Mazda dealer to see what they had to say about the famous "death rattle." The result? They tightened a heat shield and gave me my car back.

    Evidently they didn't even test drive the car after making the "repair." It still rattles, of course, every single time I run it cold, just like I told them when I brought it in. Besides, anyone here who is familiar with the problem knows it isn't due to a loose heat shield.

    One simple test drive after the car cooled off would have told them they didn't fix it right. Scratch that service department off the list.

    Anybody else have any luck in finding someone with a solution to this problem?
  • deh_clawdeh_claw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Protege with an A/C problem... On 6/28, I left my Protege at the airport L/T parking lot in Charlotte, NC. When I left, the A/C was working. When I got back, it started acting up. Here are the symptoms: A/C will work for 10-30 minutes and then quit. Or the A/C will not work at all. Have had the freon checked, it is fine. Compressor appears to be running, just no cold air. No strange smells from the a/c, just not working. Any ideas?
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    Here's a post that addresses the "death rattle". It's post 12999 from the Protege forum and was done by Protegefan.

    "Here is a post from another forum I thought would be handy for all to see:

    2.0L Engine Noise
    This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
    The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
    Category: B Piston Engine
    Repair Reference # 3562
    Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
    ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
    Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
    Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
    This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
    Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
    jcilforever"
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    An operating characteristic, eh? A totally benign operating characteristic? Let's hope so.

    I could definitely see it being pitched as such even if it isn't in attempt to avoid a recall, but I guess I'm pessimistic about such things.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    I'll tell you what I do because I don't trust Mazda at all. It does only happen when the car is cold. I start the car and let it run about 1 minute. Then I shift gears at barely above 1500. I'm lucky in that by the time I reach the main road from my neighborhood, I've gone about 2 miles, so it's pretty much up to a warm enough level that there's no noise.

    Here's why I don't trust Mazda. I bought my wife's MPV in 2001. It was a 200 model. The thing had a heck of a time starting up. It was the same warm or cold. You'd turn it over once or maybe 6 times to start it. I thought the problem was a leaking pressure regulator. No. Turns out Mazda said they were aware of the problem and were working on "counter-measures". Nice, suddenly Mazda uses Black Ops lingo! We had the car for moths before they installed the counter-measures. Now it's usually 1-3 times to start it. SO, they introduced the car to market knowing there wa a problem and it took over a year to arrive at a "fix" that still does not work.

    Don't tell me for a second that Mazda was not aware of the death rattle noise and a potential problem. The bottom line is that after calculating customer satisfaction v. cost, they were ab;e to take the "we don't care" approach. I'm not aware of any other engine making this noise.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Hi,

    I have a 1992 LX with the DOHC 1.8 engine, 158,100 miles. The other day I noticed that my temperature gauge was climbing considerably higher than normal (it's always been rock solid in the lower middle of the gauge once warmed up). The condition is worse with the A/C on.

    I checked a couple of things...
    1) Secondary cooling fan (in front of the radiator and condensor) is not running, when the temperature climbs or the A/C cycles.

    2) I pulled the fuse from the on-the-hood block for the cooling fan and checked it with an ohm meter...fuse is good.

    3) Coolant level and mix is good.

    4) Primary cooling fan is running.

    I'm thinking it's probably one of the following:
    1) thermo sensor is bad (but the primary fan is running).
    2) secondary fan motor is bad (how do I check this?)

    What activates the secondary cooling fan when the a/c goes on? Is it a separate sensor or some other connection?

    Can someone direct me to where the thermo-sensor is on this car? Should it register no resistance when the engine is hot?

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    To check the fan's function, you need to hook it up to a power source. I think it runs on 12V DC.

    The thermostat is a heat-actuated valve that constricts/opens coolant flow. Typically, this part is replaced when you replace the coolant. If it doesn't work properly, coolant flow is restricted, allowing the coolant to overheat.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I ruled out the thermostat, since I can see the coolant start to circulate in the radiator (with the cap off) when the thermostat opens.

    It's really the lack of the secondary cooling fan running that's the problem. I just don't know where the sensor is that makes it run.

    Good suggestion, though, on just running it off the 12v source to see if it's functioning. I'll try that this evening. I'm going to forecast that it will run fine. I'm still thinking it's the sensor. The primary fan runs fine, though.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    There is no sensor for the secondary fan. It runs when the compressor cycles on. It's either a relay, wire or the fan motor itself.
  • 2002protegelx2002protegelx Member Posts: 7
    I just purchased a brand new 2002 Mazda Protégé LX. The car only has 1,500 miles on it. The problem I’m having with the Protégé is this. I am experiencing severe engine vibrations when I drive the car on the freeway. The vibration is so bad that my feet feel numb and tingly after driving the car.

    Does my Protégé have a defective engine or a broken engine mount?

    Or is the engine vibrations I’m experiencing normal for the Protégé?

    Is there a fix for this problem?

    Thanks
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    What RPMs?

    Is the transmission auto or manual?

    Is it more related to engine speed (RPM) or road speed (mph)?

    Can you get the same vibration if you rev the engine in neutral?

    If it's engine-speed related, it's probably bad or missing engine mounts. You might also want to check your engine for proper operation (not misfiring or prematurely firing, spark plugs are firing in the correct sequence or not firing etc.). The engine doesn't have any counterbalances to smooth it out. It is what it is. If it's shaking too much, there's something wrong.

    If it's speed-related, you need to check:

    1) Wheel balance.
    2) Wheel roundness (check the tire and the wheel).
    3) Alignment.
    4) Strut and spring function.
    5) Other suspension components.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    Sounds like you need to avail yourself of the free loaner car warranty form Mazda. I would answer Mazdafun's questions while filling out the form as you drop off your Pro. My 02 5 speed certainly does not make my feet tingle. Give it back to the dealership, drive your free loaner and let them call you when your car is fixed.

    Ron B.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Trying not to sound patronizing:

    The car's under warranty. Use it!

    Meade
    2000 ES
    2002 Protege5
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    My previous post described how my engine temperature gauge was climbing up into the very hot range.

    Since that post, I came to the conclusion that the engine was in fact running at the same temperature as always, but that the gauge was not working correctly.

    If I would shut the engine off and then place the key in the "accessory" position (to activate the gauges), the temperature would be where it always was before this problem arose.

    Here's where it gets interesting (or bizarre). The starter failed on Monday morning. A salvaged starter was installed and worked fine. And the temperature gauge works now, too. Go figure!
  • 2002protegelx2002protegelx Member Posts: 7
    Well, I took my 2002Protege LX into the Mazda service department like everyone told me to do.

    The service department inspected my car and told me that the severe engine vibrations I was feeling when I drove on the freeway is actually considered quite "Normal" for the Protege.

    In fact, the service guy told me that I had one of the "Better" ones because there were other Proteges who's engines vibrated even worst than mine.

    I guess there is nothing I can do about it for now except play the Beach Boys song "Good Vibrations" every time I drive my Protege!

    Hey, do you think Mazda would ever be willing to let me test drive another Protege to see if they are telling me the truth about their engine vibration problem?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Can't anybody test drive a car? I have a 2000 Protege, but my wife and I had to test drive a couple 2002s before she bought her Protege5.

    Meade
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    If you can't find satisfaction at that dealer, find another that's more interested in helping you. If not, then contact Mazda NA.

    It'd help if you describe at what speeds and what the road conditions are. Since the suspension is tuned more stiffly than the mainstream accepts, road imperfections do come through more than in, say, a Corolla or Civic or Focus. However, it shouldn't be shaking hard on a smooth road.

    Definitely take a few for a test drive and check them out under similar conditions.

    A tire place once told me it was normal to get bad vibrations at highway speed (anywhere above 45mph they don't consider being covered by their wheel balancing service...what a rip). I replaced my (out of round) tires and never went back there.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    What did they check when you took your car in? Suspension? Alignment? Tires? Engine mounts?

    I think all of the above could give you the impression of engine vibrations.

    I *ahem* drove a little fast last night...something like highway speed. My Pro was rock solid (as usual)...economy car not meant to go "that" fast? HAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAAHAH!!!! Okie dokie.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Cruising at 85mph (hey, I was keeping up with traffic, trying not to be a road hazard) was pretty smooth, if noisy (wind and engine) on my last length road trip. 65mph is very quiet and smooth (unless driving through Detroit or other "rough" places where they don't maintain their road surfaces), if not "Lexus" smooth. Then again, I don't like being so isolated from the road. That's why I like the Pro.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    FWIW (very little, I know!) my 95 is surprisingly smooth for an econobox with mildly sporty aspirations, at freeway speeds, especially on tarmac (less so on laid concrete roads). I do, though, have 70% profile 13 inch touring all-season tires(yuck).

    I've taken a number of road trips, and often HAVE TO drive 80+ to not be a road hazard ;-) and never have my passengers (or I) complained about a harsh ride or vibrations.

    I think your dealer is trying to get away without doing his job well - make them satisfy you! And definitely test-drive a couple of other (new and old) Proteges, there is always the SMALL possibility that it IS you, and that you're made for (without getting anatomically gross) more cushy cars like the boring Corolla/Civic etc. Although I doubt it!
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Actually, in adition to being solid at speed as others have noted, my 02 Pro seems amazingly smooth and quiet at idle compared to other 4 bangers I've driven/owned.

    Of course, there is the cold engine "death rattle", but that's a different story.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    My brakes "groan" quite a bit. Most often when they are cold. My friendly local service rep says he called Mazda NA, and Mazda NA says this is perfectly normal. Anybody else have this "problem?"

    p_f: glad to hear you don't have the death rattle. Mazda says this is normal too, but it sure sounds and feels like something could be getting damaged and I don't know that I trust auto manufacturers on these types of things.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    When are they groaning? Under what conditions?
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    they groan just as I'm using them to come to a complete stop. They sometimes pop when I start up again. It just started recently, and does it just about every time I come to a stop.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    take a drive at lunch and take a listen to mine. I don't recall hearing anything like that though.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Usually it's due to some rusting of the rotors or accumulated dust on the pads (fallen off the edges onto the faces). I sometimes get this first thing after some condensation (or other method of getting moisture on the rotors) on the rotors. It's just the rust getting rubbed off and making noise.

    If it's not that, the only other time I get groaning noise from my brakes is if the pads are sticky (so the groaning noise is more prevalent on towards the end of the braking action when the relative speed between the pads and rotor is low...whereas the rusty rotor usually is noisy when you first apply the brakes and then goes away). You might try replacing the pads to ones with less organic material (such as kevlar or semi-metallic or semi-ceramic...but these can wear your rotors faster and can make more screechy-squealy noises) and resurfacing (machining...make sure they can do it w/o removing the rotor...results are better) the rotors to make them smoother.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    It sounds like they're sticky - they groan near the end of braking, then pop as I take off. If nothing is getting damaged and the brakes will continue to work fine as such, I'll just put up with the noise.

    Thanks, guys.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    So this service dept. kept the car two days just to give it back to me saying that nothing was wrong - the noise it's making is normal, blah blah blah.

    I drive it out for lunch, and I can hear the brakes scraping when I'm not even pressing the brake pedal. Definitely not normal. I take it back, the service manager goes for a spin with me, he agrees that something is not right. They have my car again for try number two.

    And so it is that I've had my "umpteenth" bad experience at a dealer service department. If I had a nickel for every time a service dept. has either told me that something truly wrong is normal, or has failed to fix something right the first time ...

    Something is not right indeed!
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Took my car out just now...no noises like you're describing.

    Your problem kinda sounds like warped rotors, but I can't be sure. Sorry that you're having so many troubles :(
  • mudflatmudflat Member Posts: 47
    I've owned four Mazdas and have been able to make the front brakes groan on all of them by deliberately applying a feather light touch on the pedal while barely creeping from a stop. I've gotten good enough at it that I can often produce a sustained moan.

    There's a paste that can be applied to the faces of the pad shims that might quieten things for a time, but it's too much of a pain to use unless you're doing a brake job.

    A light deglazing of the pads and taking the shine off the rotors may help.

    So may changing the pads to a different type.

    I just avoid doing what causes it unless I want to annoy my wife.
  • tbaytbay Member Posts: 22
    My wife's 99 Protege displays the following quirk. If she's been driving it for a while and then turns it off and then comes back to it within 5 minutes or so the car starts but as she tries to drive off it hesitates for a few seconds as if it's not getting enough gas (and then drives fine). If the interval is longer between shutdown and startup, say 30+ minutes this does not occur. any suggestions folks? Thanks+++
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Member Posts: 166
    I was up in Toronto last weekend and I was spent some time with a friend of mine who has a 1999 1.6L Protege automatic. When he drove up, I noticed that his engine was knocking like crazy and blue smoke was belching out the back. I asked him what the problem was and he said that it all started happening after the FIRST oil change at 55,000 kilometres. (Yes, 55,000kms, or approx. 38,000 miles.) I was a little shocked that he would treat a Mazda like that, but it just shows how much abuse these cars can take. I drove the car and to my surprise its still smooth (except for the knocking on hard acceleration!!) He leased the car, I can't wait to see what the dealer says when he brings it back. I hope they make him buy it instead of taking it in and selling to some poor unsuspecting used car buyer.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    My dad abuses his cars too. That actually kept me from giving him my '89 323. I'd like it to go to a good home, or I'll just put it out when it's rusted badly enough.

    BTW Meade, I must have some mold in my '89 323's air system. I'll give the "Lysol" treatment another try before I disassemble the dash to get at the air ducts.

    I suspect what started it was the warehouse-club-sized bottle of Armor-All I had once. I found a whole bunch of mold growing in it (sometime after I'd bought it), but not before I'd already applied it several times to the interior of my 323. That must've supplied enough mold spores to start them in earnest. I only got clued in when the pump sprayer stopped working. Plugs of mold were clogging it up! Disgusting. :P

    So...avoid any plasticizer if you can. Mold loves to eat that stuff.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    So they took a second look, and it turns out there was a bunch of crap in the caliper and a pebble stuck between the pad and rotor (causing the scraping sound when not pressing brake pedal).

    What poor quality work. They get a car with noisy brakes and didn't even inspect them - they just called Mazda NA who said that its normal for them to groan, and hand me back the car. Never mind the fact they make scraping noises even when not in use.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    This is, of course, just one possibility amongst many, but - My wife's Pontiac Grand Prix has a similar problem. If you start it up after running it with fewer than 30 minutes or so rest, it will chuggle at start up.

    The problem? Leaky injectors. They leak into the intake, then when you start up the car and those intake valves open up, way too much fuel gets into the combustion chamber fouling the plugs a bit causing them not to spark properly. Eventually the excess burns off and the car runs fine. If the car sits for a while, the excess fuel evaporates and no problem shows up.

    Of course, this happens in any type of weather.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    What poor quality work. They get a car with noisy brakes and didn't even inspect them - they just called Mazda NA who said that its normal for them to groan, and hand me back the car.

    Now Darren...do you honestly think they called anyone? The technicians on Mazda's technical line ask plenty of questions when the dealer calls. if they haven't even looked at it, the hot line tech will send them back to the car for a complete inspection. The technical hot line's job is to resolve issues not dismiss customer concerns like the regular customer assistance line.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Didn't mean to implicate Mazda NA - just the dealer service dept. Whether or not the called Mazda NA, they did give me back the car with the claim that they called MNA who told them the groaning was normal. The inspection before hand evidently either didn't occur, or was done quite poorly, because it didn't reveal the true source of the problem.

    BTW, the groaning and scraping I was experiencing is now completely gone. So, clearly, this was not the normal type of groaning to which MNA was referring. Again, clearly the fault of the dealer service dept. They didn't even apologize for the mistake, for making come back twice to get the job done right, or for sending me out in a car with brakes that weren't functioning properly. Dissapointing, but I'm sad to say it is not surprising.

    My guess is that an inspection of the brakes never took place. My guess is that the mechanic took a quick spin, heard some groaning, and thought to him or herself -"This is just like that Pro we had in the other day (and get in all the time), the one Mazda NA said was normal (just like all the others we 'inspected')."
Sign In or Register to comment.