Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

doublesix · January 2004

The Check Engine Light on my 1999 Protege ES (45K miles) started to stay on from yesterday. A scanning at AutoZone revealed two problems in terms of DTC:

(1) P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1;
(2) P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow).

I'm not so sure what exactly these two codes mean, but I noticed that a few weeks ago there was a discussion regarding code P0171 (failing MAS). In message # 1881 mazdafun specifically mentioned a recall on some 1.6L models affected (99-00 DX and LX models). Does this recall also apply to 99 ES 1.8L model? Would these problems (mainly about emissions) still be covered under warranty?

Can I still temporarily drive the car while trying to contact a dealership to take a look of the problems?

dinu01 · January 2004

The recall is for the 1.6L only IIRC. However, it could be the same issue or something as simple as an oxygen sensor.

IMO, the car is driveable - but try to get to your dealer within a few days.

Dinu

kaiserhead · January 2004

My oxygen sensor failed and triggered the CEL, but the code was different than the ones you mentioned. Just a warning, I've found that dealers quickly diagnose problems as failed mass airflow sensors because Mazda will cover the replacement costs under an extended warranty (I've had mine replaced twice in the U.S. and Canada, and the problem wasn't the MAF) You may want to research the possible causes of this problem prior to a trip the the dealer, especially if the car is out of warranty.

kaiserhead · January 2004

At least Toyota acknowledged the problem, Ford would have denied it until the government stepped in or a class action lawsuit was submitted. Lets hope Mazda doesn't adopt Ford's customer relations procedure when it comes to design faults in their products. Anyone have a late 90's 626 with an automatic transmission?

tomciviletti · January 2004

sounds like it could be a vacuum leak or a leak in the evaporative emission system itself. That's the the plumbing that condenses fuel fumes and puts them back into the fuel system. Without schematics, it will be hard to identify the right hoses. You might spot something disconnected if you look around the fuel injection and intake manifold.

vadp · January 2004

At least Toyota acknowledged the problem, Ford would have denied it until the government stepped in or a class action lawsuit was submitted.

It's the other way around. Please read the article.
Toyota had been resisting repayment, prompting angry owners to demand arbitration, hire lawyers and vent on the Internet.

Lawyers in Georgia and Florida have been gathering steam to seek class-action status for a planned lawsuit against Toyota.

Marketing experts say Toyota's decision is an example of how persuasive the Internet can be.

kaiserhead · January 2004

Come on, to compare one problem that Toyota has with the THOUSANDS that Ford has had over the years in ridiculous. Anyway, it just proves that Toyota is a better car company.

Lets see how Mazda handles the rust and staining problem on 2003 Mazda6s, will they acknowledge the problem and compensate the owners, or take a page from Ford's book and argue the "quality is job one" PR nonsense?

mazdafun · January 2004

Mazda handled the HP shortcomings with the Miata and RX-8 well (unlike Nissan, who still denies anything lacking with their engine outputs, despite several dyno tests that indicate either Nissan is overstating their outputs or the transmissions in their vehicles are really inefficient).

But I have to say that I find it disturbing that Mazda 6 built in NA have this rusting issue at all when ones built in Japan don't. I'd be very hesitant to buy and NA-built 6 (sedan, hatch or wagon) until I'm sure they've solved the root cause.

chikoo · January 2004

u probably have a vacuum leak and a catalyst gone bad. should be covered under warranty.

vadp · January 2004

Come on, to compare one problem that Toyota has with the THOUSANDS that Ford has had over the years in ridiculous
THOUSANDS? Care to list?
BTW, those 3.5 million cars which are affected by just one problem of that caliber is easily worth of thousands much smaller Ford problems.

meg11 · January 2004

I have a 2000 Mazda protege w/ 43K miles. In the past month my check engine light has come on three times. I have had the air filter, spark plugs, and an oxygen sensor replaced. Now the diagnostic code is 01721 and my mechanic recommends replacing the air flow meter. Has anyone had this experience...

alcan · January 2004

Meg, can you recheck that code? All OBD II trouble codes start with P, then 4 digits. P1721 refers to incorrect gear ratio (transmission), P0172 is fuel system rich (engine). If it's P0172, start by looking closely at the ducting between the air flow meter and the throttle body for any signs of cracks or other damage.

meg11 · January 2004

Thanks for the information. I must have written down the code incorrectly. I believe it is P0172. I will share your insights with my mechanic. Truly appreciate it....

kaiserhead · January 2004

I guess we'll agree to disagree.

elavertu · January 2004

I'm annoyed today. We got the protegé in September. It now has a 5000km.

Last weak it was -25 degree celcius and the car would not start. The battery wasn't providing the necessary power to the starter to start the engine even if the car is new. We had to boost it.

I have a 2002 Elantra, which is supposed to be the worst car on earth according to what I read on the Mazda 3 vs Elantra discussion, and it started without hesitation. If only mazda had put a stronger battery this problem would have never happen.

Why don't they use stronger batteries in car delivered in Canada ? Our winter is a lot worst than in the northern states of the US. The price difference between an average battery and a good battery is so small, I just don't understand their decision.

cdnp5 · January 2004

I understand how you can be upset with your car not starting in the cold (having to wait outside isn't fun in that weather) but maybe its just your battery that is having a problem. I've spent many a days in the very cold weather and didn't start my car for two days at -35C and it did start when I needed it to. Take your car back to your dealer and have them check the battery (its still under warranty) and they will replace it if there is anything wrong with it.

swtwilliam · January 2004

live in mn. very very cold recently. like -25 to -30 below with wind chills. just bought a 2003 protege es,and experienced very iffy cold starting performance. called dealer, and brought car in. they checked battery and said it was low on cranking amps (about 150?). soooooooooooo..they replaced the battery, under warranty, with a mazda replacemnt - 550 amps i am told.
well guess what happened today?? yep. no start. cranks as slow or slower than it did before. i know, your thinking charging system right? they say they checked that. so.......i call the mazda dealer today (again, me and service mgr are on first name basis now) and i say "well, i was right. you were wrong. car wont start. mazda roadside assistance is towing it in today".
then, the *!#%@ service manager has the balls to shake me down about cold weather starting procedure. "did you crank the engine until it fired?" my reply, "i could crank the engine for about 35 seconds and then my battery would be dead". "well, if you stop cranking too early, you will flood the engine. its in the owners manual". [non-permissible content removed], you think this is the first car i have had to start in a mn winter?? "im telling you this new battery you just installed, doesnt crank any harder/faster than the one you replaced".
service manager also gave me some song and dance about how the engine is tight. so it will crank harder. soooooo...with that reasoning then most new car owners aren't able to start their cars in the winter. pffffffttt!!
i am very p.o'd about this (as i watch my neighbors in blazers, grand prixs, navigators start their cars and drive away). i am calling mazda usa.

protege_fan · January 2004

Are you guys using block heaters? We had -32C weather up here (-45C w/ the windchill) and although it takes a bit to start, my '03 ES hasn't had any trouble starting.

mazdafun · January 2004

They go bad with age. Goes for any make of lead-acid batteries. The one in yours may have drained due to any number of reasons (probably because the car hadn't been run in a while...think of it: assuming they put a fresh battery in at the factory, it is shipped over the ocean, which can take a week or more, depending on the port, then it is processed through the port and then trucked or rail-freighted, which can take weeks, then it may sit around a dealer lot for days to months after a brief run to park the car, which probably drains its battery more than charges it). If I got a 2003 model car now, I'd plan on replacing the battery before a real winter hit. When I got an '89 323LX back in late '89, the battery was close to dead; the dealer put in a fresh battery. I got my '99 ProLX in Jan '99, so its battery lasted 4 years fine; I replaced it before this winter, just in case.

The replacement battery they gave you may have been sitting around uncharged for a while. Retailers of car batteries should charge them every now and then, but I bet most don't

Like all rechargeables, they drain (even w/o a load) in a matter of weeks to months. Once a lead-acid battery is dead, it stays dead. It won't hold a charge for long and it won't have nearly the CCA it's supposed to have.

The occasional bad one gets in too. If it's a "service-free" type, there may be a crack in the casing, allowing the water in the cell to evaporate, causing premature death of the cell. There are many ways for car batteries to fail.

So, if you've ever drained your battery (by leaving a light on etc.), then you should really replace it.

Even the best of car batteries don't last beyond 5 years. I'd say most go between 3 and 4 years of use before needing replacement, especially up north. I replace mine every 4, and I garage my car, so it has at least one "warm" start during winter days.

dinu01 · January 2004

Our PRO is usually outside and even with the cold weather (routinely -20C to -30C for the last 2 wks) the car started w/no problem w/out a block heater.

If you bought it recently, if the car sits on the lot for too long, maybe (just speculation) the car will have a hard time to start???

Dinu

kaiserhead · January 2004

My 2000 Protege has the original battery and sits in a cold a windy parking lot five days a week. It starts (slowly) everytime within three seconds. I'd have the battery checked, maybe even by a place other than Mazda.

swtwilliam · January 2004

yeah,i had the battery load tested at batteries plus. it read about 308 cca there (its a 525 cca mazda batter). then i went to dealership and it read 408. is 408 on 525 battery acceptable?
seems the battery is fine. put car in the garage tointe and girlfriends van is on the driveway. we will see but if you ask me this is rediculous. i have roadside assitance, though it took them 6 hours to show up today.

elavertu · January 2004

As I said, the car is new so that is what annoyed me the most. We (gf and I) love the car, we were just pissed that it would not start during cold days since the sales rep told us we would never need a block heater on the protegé.

Unfortunately, it was the first time I listened to a sales rep and it was a mistake. I should have pushed harder for the block heater during the negotiation.

Now we got one installed for $160 cnd and the car always starts even at -35. It was the last time I follow the advice of a sales rep, I learned the hard way waiting for the tow truck for 7 hours.

hboyd · January 2004

My '01 ES Pro AT (41K miles) has had the following problems:
Anyone have similar ones?

1) Faulty CD-player (skipped over tiny road bumps);

2) Morning/cold-start engine "rumbling/buzzing" (sounds like a diesel) at low RPMs during start-up and low-speed driving; [dealer replaced engine delay valve and catalytic convertor and reprogrammed PCM]; problem has returned! (Any ideas or new fixes?);

3) Rear, center seatbelt retracted sluggishly;

4) driver-door weather-stripping loose at top;

5) 3 strut cartridges are leaking a little oil above spring seat; dealer states it is normal;

6) windshield wipers flutter/lift at speeds above 75MPH; (Any ideas/fixes?)

7) Engine whines between about 65-75 MPH cruising; (Any ideas/fixes?);

My warranty runs out in a couple weeks. Still a VERY GREAT car... all faulty parts were replaced by my dealer... but some issues they couldn't quite reproduce/pinpoint.

Thanks, Martin

protege_fan · January 2004

Item 2 on your list is a known issue. There is a TSB fix for it. Try www.nhtsa.dot.gov and search for it.

dinu01 · February 2004

#1 - Known issue on 2001s - I'm on my 3rd Cd player now - ate one CD, skipped and lost radio reception. If your was built in June/July 2001 you're not alone.

#2- Yes, check for a TSB - mention engine pinging on a cold start (reprogram ECU)to your dealer

#3-#6 - no clue

#7 - Ask dealer to check for weatherstripping around the windshiled - at that speed a whine/whistle-type noise sometimes appeared on 01 PROs - quick dealer fix - however this is NOT coming from the engine as far as I know. Maybe you have a different issue???

Dinu

dinu01 · February 2004

Please check your email

tomciviletti · February 2004

My '99 es has the original battery and starts within 1 1/2 seconds consistently. I will admit, though, it doesn't get below 20 degrees F. around here, thank goodness.

moparbad · February 2004

Smelled burning smell last night when I drove home in 03 Protege LX and assumed it was one of the old cars in front of me. Very strong odor of burning when parked in garage so checked:
1. Brakes- no odor, smoke or excessive heat around the wheel area.
2. Belts- serpentine belt appeared to be fine.
3. Coolant- adequate coolant and no engine light, though the radiator was plenty hot.
4. Oil- fine.
5. No obvious indication of what is causing the smell in the engine compartment, though the smell appeared to be strongest in that area.

Any ideas in what else I should check? Weather was very cold and then warmed up and rained, then temp. dropped slightly below freezing and started snowing again. My suspicion was that something became wet, then froze and caused the problem. Like the rear brakes or a belt.

Ideas?

mazdafun · February 2004

I sometimes smell something like burning phosphorus(match), but I've never located the cause. In general, I look for ash deposits, gummy residue (burned or cooked fluids), bright spots or powdery residue around belts, whitish or greenish powder (coolant). Also check the battery and the leads near it. Check around the spark plugs too. I believe they generate the high voltage right over the plugs, so that may be a source of ignition as well.

alcan · February 2004

Make sure there isn't a plastic bag melted onto the exhaust system.

moparbad · February 2004

Good suggestions. I just got home but will check out the car before I drive it tomorrow. Drove my truck tonight and it is filthy. Can't wait until it warms up so I can wax it and the Protege.
Never would have thought of the plastic bag possiblity.
Thanks.

mazdafun · February 2004

One melted to my exhaust pipe just in front of the muffler last winter; I couldn't avoid it, the road was super-slushy. It stunk for over a week, and that was with my scraping off as much as I could. The smell depends on what that bag is made of, but it's always nasty.

boggse · February 2004

Check out this TSB:

Component Description:
5. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:EXHAUST SYSTEM

NHTSA Number:
354263

Bulletin Number:
0102902

Bulletin Date:
NOV 2002

Vehicle: 2003 Mazda Protege

Summary:
SULFUR SMELL FROM EXHAUST SYSTEM. *TT

hboyd · February 2004

My cig lighter, in my '01 Protege, does not stay in when pushed to start heating. I have to hold it in to work. Is this normal? Manual states that it should stay in and "pop" out when ready. Problem?

Thanks

dinu01 · February 2004

I believe there's a TSB about that too

Dinu

boggse · February 2004

You always say that:

Make:
MAZDA

Model:
PROTEGE

Year:
2001

Service Bulletin Number:
00700

NHTSA Item Number:
614124

Summary Description:

SOME CUSTOMERS MAY STATE THAT THEIR CIGARETTE LIGHTER DOES NOT WORK OR STAY IN POSITION. *TT

dinu01 · February 2004

See, you found it.

I knew where it was, but didn't bother to copy it down. Yes, lazy me

Dinu

tomciviletti · February 2004

get a new one from any parts store or Kmart

gwestley · February 2004

My protege has 72,000 miles on it and a few weeks ago my problem began. While driving at 65mph, the overdrive light comes on and blinks intermittently and I lose some power, feels like its dropping out of overdrive. The car will slow down and is revving higher, I can still drive it but it slams into gear when it shifts. If I stop the car and check fluid level it's OK. I get back in the car and drive away like nothing ever happened. It's happened 4 times so far. Started happening after I did a complete tuneup on the car myself (not really sure). Had a air intake sensor unplugged so it registered a failure code but we cleared the code out of the computer. A week later the transmission thing happened again. Any help.

Greg

mazdafun · February 2004

I'd take it in for diagnosis. Someone with a Pro of your generation had similar symptoms and I think it was a failing speed sensor (I think). Transmission mechanicals were OK.

hboyd · February 2004

Anybody have problems with their '01 Protege's A/C? Mine doesn't blow really cold air at low RPMs. Is this normal? It works okay on the freeway... but really doesn't blow cold, cold air. Should I have it checked... still under warranty by a few days?

Thanks,
Martin

mazdafun · February 2004

It sounds like it's low on refrigerant. May as well have it fixed under warranty.

doublesix · February 2004

P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1;
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow).

I was told today that my 1999 ES most likely has a bad intake gasket. Do I have to get it replaced soon? They asked for $311 plus diagnosis for $90. Is this a fair quote?

kaiserhead · February 2004

Most places don't charge a diagnostic fee if you get the work done. I'd check into that.

rotarykid · February 2004

thats a fair price from a dealer- but a lot to pay any other facility.

urbanek · February 2004

I have the OEM 16 inch alloy wheels and P195/50R16 all season radial tires with 25,000 mi. This winter in Cleveland, OH I am very humbled and thankful after a number of losing it experiences to not have wrecked the car. The road conditions were especially tricky and I do not fault the equipment. That having been said I am open to recommendation for rims and tires for snow/ice driving. What will fit on the car in terms of a smaller diameter rim and higher sidewall tire?...in addition to recomended tire for this application....thanks.

civiletti · February 2004

for snow, narrower is better. go to www.tirerack.com. Check the tread width and diameter for your wheel/tire combo. Look for one that hsa about the same diameter, but a narrower tread width. 185/60-15 might be close, as would 195/55-15. Of course, a real snow tire would help. Michelon's arctic alpin has good performance characteristics for a snow tire.

rotarykid · February 2004

blizzaks have never failed me here in new england

ram22 · February 2004

Hi !
Took my Protege to the dealer for an oil change and also asked him to check a vibration sound I was getting when the car goes on rough roads or potholes(the sound also comes while accelerating at 2,500 rpm)

Dealer said :
1.
The radiator is leaking coolant and must be replaced ($500)
He said that if I don't do this, the motor may sieze. Is this true ?

2.
The vibration sound in the front is because of the front sway links and they need to be replaced.
Luckily my car is under warranty for the next few weeks and that will cover everything.
I plan to get it done next week.

Any idea what is the "front sway links" ?

Thanks.

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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