Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

kkarnes · March 2005

revamp on message

i have a 1999 mazda protege 68k just stopped running this week turns over has weak to no spark replaced wires and plugs. ordered and tried new ignition coils still didnt work. wondering if it could be the timing belt and if the best way to check timing belt was to remove valve cover. had check engine codes pulled they said ignition or misfire wondered if that could be caused by timing belt any info would be great

kkarnes · March 2005

i have a 1999 1.6L protege and on mine you have to remove the ignition coils which are mounted on top of the valve cover to gain access to the spark plugs. kinda a pain just to change plugs

mazdafun · March 2005

Yeah, but putting the coil over the plugs is a lot easier than pushing the boot over the plugs. Just don't lose any screws.

I get a little vibration through the steering wheel column of my '99LX (AT-equipped). It's definitely related to the transmission as it's a lot less when I put it into neutral or park. It was really bad after they serviced the AT on my '89 323LX (adjusted bands to resolve a hard 1->2 shift). Not sure where it'd be, but I suspect the torque converter, or the alignment between the transmission and the torque converter.

alcan · March 2005

Don't forget that A, idle speed is usually slightly lower when the trans is in gear, and B when in gear, the engine/transaxle torques and may show up a defective mount.

tweedle · March 2005

I asked a similar question earlier but no one could help.

The car: 93 Mazda Protégé, 5 spd, 1.8l sohc w/ 91K+

The Problem: Car stalls under the following conditions only
1. AC must be on
2. Air temp must be above 70
3. Car is at normal temp (after 10 min. of driving)
4. Throttle is quickly closed at RPM >2500
5. Clutch pedal is completely depressed
6. Car is in gear

This happens while driving when approaching as stop sign for example. I step on the clutch while simultaneously releasing the gas pedal. The rpms drop quickly to zero. The car will start instantly by letting up on the clutch or using the starter.

This NEVER happens if the AC is off, or the air temp is 70 or less, or the car is still warming-up, or the engine speed to begin w/ is less than 2500 rpm or if I slide the shifter into neutral.

The process can be simulated in the driveway as follows:
With the car warmed up, AC on, clutch pedal on the floor, tranny in any drive gear if I rev the engine above 2500 RPM and quickly let up on the gas the car will immediately die or drop down to about 200 rpm and sputter back to about 750.

With the car in NEUTRAL and clutch in any position the rpm will quickly drop to 1100 plateau and then drop slowly to 750. The whole process while in neutral is as smooth as glass.

The computer gets input from a neutral switch on the tranny. When in neutral, this switch is closed. If I unplug the switch and tape a jumper onto the end of the wire I have no problem and the car drives fine.

On this car the throttle position switch only tells the computer two throttle positions, wide open or fully closed. If I unplug the TPS, my problem goes away. The switch is adjusted correctly and functions fine. I checked with feeler gauges and ohmmeter.

The dashpot seems to function fine and I extended the rod all the way, but that did not help. It does appear to slow the throttle closing.

The engine does get a slight boost when the AC is switched on. It goes from about 700 to 750 per the tach in the dash.

I checked the plugs, the timing and the fuel pressure. The air flow meter checked out ok too.

While checking the timing I noticed that the idle is set as low as it can go but is as per spec. The air bypass screw is turned in all the way.

The idle control valve has a mechanical feature that closes slightly as the coolant flows through and warms up. With the electrical connector unplugged and starting from a cold engine the idle may drop from 1200 to 1100 rpm once the engine is at operating temperature. When I plug in the electrical connector the idle drops back to 700 rpm. I wonder if the mechanical portion is not closing enough. Such a small drop (100 rpm) seems hardly worth having.

Why does the car die in the above conditions?
Why does unplugging the TPS or jumpering the neutral swith so the computer thinks the car is always in neutral or never has a closed throttle help?

Thanks for helping.

mazdarati · March 2005

My 99 Mazda Protege has 40 thousand miles on it. About a month ago, the check engine light came on (steady, not blinking) under normal around-town driving conditions. A mechanic and I looked at it, ran a diagnostic. The code, if I remember correctly, was something like 1401 ... or 1412 ... anyway, the translation as told by autozone clerks was an oxygen-rich system. We all reset the computer and the light stayed off for about a week and a half before popping back on under normal driving conditions once again. I have noticed a rougher idle as well as a slight hesitation during high speeds. Any ideas? I think it may be a mass air flow sensor, but it could also be a clogged EGR valve -- so I'm not sure. How do I check? Or do the codes give it away?

twashington · March 2005

I have 70,000 miles on my 2000 Protege and I have a bad ignition coil. I was considering changing them myself and I took a look at the engine today. The other two plugs are indeed under the ignition coils. It looks like an easy job. Is it hard to change spark plugs, don't you have to measure the tips or whatever?

ang8504 · March 2005

hey!! there is a recall on the mass air flow sensors in the 99 proteges so you should go and get it fixed and it shouldnt cost u anything (I think) since it is a recall. I have a 99 pro too I have not got mine fixed yet, but I havent really seen any symptoms like u have but i will probably call my local mazda dealer and set up an appt time

civiletti · March 2005

Have you tried a magnet on a rod?

civiletti · March 2005

Do folks use Techron regularly? I think it is worth it to keep injectors clean.

anron · March 2005

Does anyone know where I can find out how to install the oil pan gasket and what is involed in installing it??

usino · March 2005

My Protege lx 1998 fail emission test three days ago. I brought the car with the check engine light on.I didn't have any problem running this car before. The computer reveal P0421:warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1,2. And P0170:Fuel trim bank 1,2. I dont know whats thats mean. I decides to change spark plugs, wires,Ignition cap, and pvc valve before bringed it for diagnostic. It got worse..... The O/D (over drive) light intermittent, the car did not start. What I did wrong?

usino · March 2005

I changed the spark plugs and wires in my Protege lx 1998 yesterday.I desconnect the battery (pos and neg). The light of the over drive( O/D) is flashing in the dash and the car did not start.check engine is on. Please send me an e mail to Lrevelacion@aol.com . What I did wrong?

Karen_S · March 2005

Hey folks...just an FYI.

Posting your email address is not a good idea on a public message board as the spybots that troll through will pick it up and you will most likely begin receiving spam email. As only forum members can access other member profiles, you can make your email address public and then reference members to check your profile for your address. You have 30 minutes to edit/delete after posting your message. After the 30 minute window, only a host can delete your post.

Also, solutions should be posted within the discussion so everyone can benefit.

If you have any questions/concerns, please let me know. Click on my name to contact me via email.

ang8504 · March 2005

yes we have tried that!! but the magnet was too big to go down the tube and someone told me that the dipstick isnt metal anyway?? but idk! thanks for the help though

jenizadara · March 2005

I have a 97 protege which was given to me(used) by my brother. Before exchange we had is serviced, safetied, emmisions tested, etc. all passing execptionally well. It was driving fine, but the shift (automatic) was quite tight to move until the car warmed up. A few weeks ago (after a cold snap which had -20C with windchills), I went to start the car and it wouldn't start. The radio, fan, door buzzer, and dash lights all came on, but the car did not start. My husband was able to start it in when in Neutral. I thought maybe it was rebelling, as all of it's life it has spent winters in a garage (we live out in the country with no garage or shelter from the elimantes). Now that it has warmed up it seems to be starting fine.
Any thoughts or suggestions as to what it might be would be helpful as well as advise as to what we can do to avoid this again.
Thanks

mdaffron · March 2005

Why not post here for all to see and learn from? My first reaction is, you installed them out of order. Go take a look under the hood of another '98 LX and note how the wires are routed; then compare yours and make absolutely certain they're routed the same way!

Meade

mazdafun · March 2005

1.6L - all plastic

1.8L & 2.0L - metal shaft with plastic handle

mazdafun · March 2005

Easy to do if you have an extended socket, because they're in pretty deep. Use some anti-seize compound on their threads when putting in the new plugs...makes removal a lot easier 30k miles later.

NGKs are already pre-gapped, and come individually boxed with a cardboard tube to protect the spark end. Champions come packed in blister cards and you have to sometimes adjust the gap as the bent terminal may have been knocked out of position. You can check the gap with any plug gauge (costs about 1-2 bucks). The one with separate wires is better than the one with a continuous outer ridge, but it costs more as it's more involved to manufacture.

civiletti · March 2005

Attach a thin tube to a shopvac and suck the mother out.

domiano · March 2005

I am having the same problem with our Mazda Protege 1999. Did you ever find out what the problem was with your car?

tgayl · March 2005

I have no spark from one of the two coils on the 1.6l engine. replaced the coil - same problem..
any ideas?????

morgandbarrios · March 2005

my belts have been breaking so i replaced the water pump, the timing belt, and the alternator in my 98 protege and the belts are still squealing and for several seconds at a time...not normal new belt squeals! whats left to replace to fix the problem!?!?!?

mdaffron · March 2005

Did you replace the plug wires?

Meade

misterc · March 2005

I have the same problem with my 1990 Protege, did you ever find the solution to your starting/stalling problem?

Thanks

botahoopty · April 2005

:lemon: I just bought a 93 Mazda Protege not even 2 weeks ago. I test drove it, my husband looked at the engine, the seller said it was reliable, and being a first time buyer, I believed everything he said. So, I drove it home about 50 miles, and after that it would crank every 1:10 times. SO, we called the seller and he said to test the battery and altinator and he'd pay to get it fixed. Well, that's the last we heard from him. I put in a new battery, drove it around town, battery went dead. Jumped it off, drove it to autozone, they charged it and tested it and the altinator, and said the altinator was completely dead and it was running off the battery. SO, my husband installed a new altinator, ran fine for a day, then it wouldn't crank again without being jumped off. Someone has suggested that it could be the "voltage regulator" if the car has one. Also, the relay switch is dead. I don't have the $ to take it to mechanic, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

beckly · April 2005

Some one had broken into my car and stole the CD from it, and the facorty one that was in my trunk. I got a wiring kit from Best Buy, but no one has been able to figure out how to put the factory CD player back in my car. I don't have a user manual either, which would help a bunch. So I was wondering if anyone knew which wire is which that is connected to the car, not the CD player itself. It's a 2000 Protege, and any help would be great. Thanks.

kagedude · April 2005

Do you have any leaks that might be causing the squealing? My 94 Protege's valve cover seal had to be replaced because it was leaking on the fan belt side. Squealing disappeard after.

adder · April 2005

I've been having overheating problems for a long while now. Blowing coolant out of the overflow tank each trip I take. Replaced the radiator cap and thermostat first. I ended up replacing the radiator too just in case it was clogged or something , the water pump seems to be working fine... hot water at both hoses leading in and out of engine, and could see coolant flow when the thermostat opened. I feel like I've done everything I can but it is still overheating badly. The overflow tank bubbling and sputtering out fluid even after relatively short trips... having to refill radiator to make it from A to B.

I got my hands on a cylinder pressure tester which I screwed into the spark plug sockets and each one filled to good pressure after turning the engine over a couple times and held the pressure without leaking. I checked my oil and it did not look milky or weird in anyway. Coolant is green and doesn't seem to have oil in it but hard to tell.

Anyway... after about a month of this I went out there to check the water pump again seemingly the one thing i'm not sure is working right. So opened the hood took off the cap and filled it to the top. Started the car and the coolant erupted like a volcano when it started up (normal?). Needing to watch the fluid I topped it off again bubbled down, filled bubbled down, filled again till it stayed full... but It kept bubbling pretty big bubbles every few seconds but fluid did not go down. After watching this for a while waiting for the thermostat to open... i got pretty suspicious of the bubbles coming out of the radiator cap, so I got my nose down there to sniff the popping bubbles and low and behold it smelled like exhaust .

Which gets me thinking about the head gaskets again... but how can this be happening if the cylinders are keeping pressure and not leaking? It seams like the hot exhaust in the cooling system is causing the coolant temp to rise as well as causing there to be far too much pressure in the coolant system forcing the fluid out into the overflow tank and out even before the engine has begun to overheat. Is there a way exhaust could be getting into the coolant system other than from a cracked head or gasket??

Just looking for some confirmation before I go tear into that project and do something foolish. This has been the first time I have ever worked on my own car and I'm learning a lot... but working on my heads scares me. Its not something I want to try unless I'm sure its the cause. I've already replaced so many parts that aren't the problem that I feel like an idiot.

alcan · April 2005

Diagnose it the simple way by buying a combustion gas detector kit at any decent auto parts supply house. The chemicals change color when exposed to combustion gases in the rad.

mazdafun · April 2005

Some Mazda tensioner pulley bearings have failed in the past (wrong hardness material causing premature wear), causing these to either seize or put more friction on the accessory/drive belts, causing squealing and early belt failure.

mazdafun · April 2005

It should just plug in, unless they cut or ripped off the connector from the wiring harness when they stole the head unit.

mazdafun · April 2005

I'd check "upstream" of the coil pack. There may be a broken wire, pin or connector. The wires seem to be under a lot of tension, and I wouldn't be surprised if one or more broke.

Also, check the distributor, or whatever they may be using in place of a mechanical distributor (I'm not sure what is used in gen3 Proteges).

morgandbarrios · April 2005

well i just took it to a mazda specialist and told him my situation. he felt the belts and i guess the alternator one was loose and he tightened it. so hopefully that was the problem. if not...ill take the pulleys into consideration cuz that sounds more like it could be the problem than a loose belt. thanks so much!

zoom zoom king · April 2005

ive had my 99 pro for almost a year and its very reliable.... my friend has a mitsu galant 01 es v6 ( which has cost at least 1200 to fix... something about random multiple misfires.. not to mention the premium gas and oil changes) at first i envied the v6 power plants and i wondered why mazda couldnt do like vw and do the v6 thing but all envies aside ...i wouldnt trade it for the world its roomier then most midside cars and it doesnt beg for gas and it is peppy the only prob ive had was the cel came on it was a faulty code but the real prob was the brakes i replaced in nov 04 and i just replaced them today and the rotors. because they were ground bad. i bought new rotors (2 x 35.00) and pads and i tested it out it stops fine but smells like it was burnin this happened b4 and i was wonderin why ... Last time i almost had an accident because they overheated so bad does anybody have a clues as to why the brakes went bad .. i was thinkin faulty pad ... so did the manager at autozone he refunded me for the pads

nazabe · April 2005

2000 Mazda Protege DX 1.6 L engine, 105K miles. Anyone has experienced hissing sound from the front of engine while check engine light on and flashing. The noise seems like from the exhaust connection to the engine. The sound is in sync with acceleration. Could it be leaking exhaust gasket?

probinson · April 2005

I have a 1995 Mazda Protoge 150,000 miles / manual. I've never had any problems with it aside from replacing the timing belt 2 years ago. Easter weekend, my neighbor drove it and would continually "grind" the clutch on an Hour 1/2 road trip as if he had never driven a stick before. Now, when I drive it, anytime I go past 40 mph - it won't accelerate and makes a humming noise as if i am trying to drive it in neutral. Is it just coincidence or is the clutch ruined?

mazdafun · April 2005

I'd check to make sure the calipers slide OK on their pins. I'd also check to make sure the caliper pistons return properly. If any of them stick, then they keep the pads against the rotors, even when you've released the brake pedal. This will cause them to overheat very quickly. I doubt you have a problem with your master cylinder, but it's worth a check if your calipers and pistons are working properly.

Also, semi-metallic pads are more resistant to overheating than purely organic pads. They can make more noise, cost more and wear down your rotors faster. But they last longer (at the expense of additional rotor wear) and conduct heat away faster. Because they are less prone to overheating and overheat at higher temperatures than organic pads, they don't "fade" as quickly.

Regarding the hissing engine: do you smell the exhaust or is the exhaust note louder? If not, I doubt a leak in your exhaust system. I'm more likely to believe a vacuum hose has developed a leak. Check you hoses for cracks or holes. Also check to make sure their ends are properly seated and sealed. Vacuum pressure varies with engine speed, so it will also increase with increased RPMs.

About the clutch: you probably need new clutch plates. Your neighbor needs to practice driving a manual on some other vehicle. Seriously, you got a lot of miles out of that clutch, if it's the original!

jrdwyer · April 2005

After a little over 100K miles on my '95 Pro LX, I had the hissing type sound from the front of the car. It was simple to diagnose. The sound increased with speed and it smelled faintly of exhaust under the hood. The problem was a fine crack in the cast iron exhaust manifold. I could only see it after removing the heat shield.

One other possibility might be a vaccum leak at the PCV valve. This is easy to check as it is right on top of the valve cover. With a good engine, the PCV valve dosen't generally get clogged enough to blow the hoses or seals, but with older engines it is possible.

I learned an important lesson from my first vehicle, a 1982 Mazda B2000 pickup; when the clutch starts to go it will give you advance warning. For several months the transmission was making a slightly higher frequency while driving. I just ignored it (like an idiot) and it finally failed on me and left me stranded on the highway in Canada. Thankfully, the weather wasn't too bad for January and the shop did a good job with the repair without gouging me. Funny though, I did not notice the typical slipping (higher RPM's with no response) that generally goes with a failing clutch. Just total failure all at once. I am now paying attention to my Protege' clutch as I am up over 180K miles on the original and probably on borrowed time. I do find that full synthetic oil works better than regular perto oil in the tranny in the wintertime with much smoother and easier shifts.

rajan_bhirud · April 2005

I own 1999 Maza Protege ES 4Door.
Few months ago, I suddenly noticed that the car engine was running rough at idle speed and check engine light started flashing. So I drove it to mechanic, (it drove fine at higher speeds). The mechanic used diagnostic meter but could not find the fault. So reset the check engine light. He told me to change spark plugs, wires and change the oil, filter. I did all those.

I drove for another 300 - 400 miles and agian same thing happended. I again took it to the same mechanic. He still could not find the fault. So reset the light.

I drove again 300 - 400 miles.
Now again same thing happened. During the flashing of check engine light engine hesitates. But then check engine light stayed on and was not flashing. The engine does not hesitate. and car runs fine.

mdaffron · April 2005

One thing he didn't tell you to change, so you probably didn't -- your plug wires. I'll almost guarantee that a $60 set of new plug wires, which you can install yourself in less than five minutes, will make your problem disappear.

BTW -- When your CEL illuminates, a code is stored in your car's computer. The fact that the mechanic you visited could not retrieve this code speaks for his competence, or lack thereof. I would not take my car to that mechanic in the future.

Meade

mazdafun · April 2005

If the new wires don't work, have them check and clean the ports on your EGR valve. The inlet ports on mine ('99LX) were getting clogged. I was getting P0402 (excessive flow through the EGR valve, which really means insufficient flow for the Protege).

kia3 · April 2005

My daughters 2000 Protege died and left her stranded on the side of the road. We towed it to a garage and they cannot get it to fire and turn over. All major areas seem to be ok, timing, alternator, battery etc. and nothing shows up on the computer diagnosis. It just will not turn over and crank. We are stumped. Please help. :confuse:

mdaffron · April 2005

Just out of curiosity, how can they know the timing is OK if the engine won't turn over? I think that right there is reason enough to have the car towed to a REPUTABLE mechanic.

I own a 2000 Protege ES. The car had a recall for its ignition coil back in 2002. Mine was replaced free of charge under the recall campaign. If you call your Mazda dealer and give the service department your car's VIN, they can check to see if your car has had the recall performed.

Meade

kia3 · April 2005

The engine will turn over it just will not crank. It turns and turns but will not crank. The mechanics say that it would not even turn over if it was the ignition switch.

Any other ideas?

mdaffron · April 2005

mistyr · April 2005

Did this ever happen again?

I am having the exact same problem. No warning tone if the lights are left on.........Dash lights not working.......... Turning signal, reverse lights and brake lights work but not the tail parking lights. My front lights work fine. Also I cannot figure out how to check the parking lights to see if the bulb is blown. I can get to the brake lights and the reverse lights but not the regular lights.

any suggestions?

h_olly · April 2005

I have an automatic 95 Protege and the transmission has been slipping, they say we need a new one, but we want to know if anyone with a similar problem had an easy fix. We only need the car for the next few months and just need it to work temporarily... any ideas or feedback would be great.

tabmanmatt · April 2005

Can someone please explain to me the overdrive feature on the Mazda protege? I drive a '96. I'm just kind of curious what is the best way to maximize my gas mileage. Should I start with the overdrive off and then when I hit a certain speed turn it on? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

mdaffron · April 2005

Um, is it a manual or an automatic?

Meade

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