Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

indranil · May 2005

Hello All,

I have a 95 Mazda Protege (Automatic),which has driven 103K miles. I bought this car around 10 days ago. Recently, a yellow LED in the car has started glowing, on checking it in the "Mazda Manual", they say that " Electrical Circuitry problem". I was wondering if any of you guys have faced such a problem before.

Any help/suggestion in this matter is highly appreciated.

Thanks

jano3 · May 2005

CEL stays on in my 2001 Protege LX @25K miles. OBD II code =P1170 AutoZone readout said "fuel air metering" What does this mean ? what should I do?. Anybody?

nyccarguy · May 2005

Thanks for the advice and analysis. My wife drives her car about 1.5 miles to and from the train station. The only thing I can think of is that she drives a little too fast going over the 8 speed bumps (twice a day) from our complex's driveway to where she parks. Even with the Protege's mildly sporty suspension, I feel it soak up the bumps when I drive over it with the car. It is entirely possible that she hit a pothole too (our roads here in NY are full of them). Even with the leaky struts, the car tracked straight. My car is an '01 Honda Prelude Type SH with a much firmer suspension that crashes over speed bumps and potholes (that I can't avoid). I'll have to be more careful. :surprise:

zerogee · May 2005

The driver's automatic window in my 95 Protege ES has failed, unfortunately in the down position. All of the other windows are functioning except the driver's window.

I'm not too car savvy, but I did install new speakers about a year ago so I know how to get inside the inner door panel. I took a look and reseated the wires into the bottom of the switch panel, but unfortunately it wasn't that simple of a fix. All the other windows work

So possible causes? Bad switch, bad relay, or busted motor? The MOST IMPORTANT thing in the short term: is there an easy way to manually "roll it up"? If the motor has failed, can a motor from a rear window be swapped in for the driver side window?

autonomous · May 2005

"If only one of the windows is inoperative, use a test light to check for power to its switches and motor. If you hear a humming sound when a window switch is pressed, the motor gearbox may have stripped gear teeth. The plastic gears in the window motor gearbox can strip after prolonged service. The motor will spin, but movement will not be transferred to the window. If the motor or the switches are found to be bad, they shold be replaced."

Modern Automotive Technology / James E. Duffy. Tinley Park, IL : Goodheart-Willcox, c1998. p.679

p.s. this is a wonderful book for getting to know your vehicle; the current edition is available from your local bookseller or check your local public library

davluvbbal · May 2005

My 1999 mazda protege has 100,000 miles five speed. It has never had a problem until recently. It has started cutting out at about 2500 rpm. It only does it when it is hot and only at one spot on the foot feed. When I push the foot feed down more or let off it seems to stop. I have new plugs, wires, and filters and don't think they are a problem. The service engine light comes on, I had it checked and said the fuel mixture was to lean. but nothing else. Need some help.

gindingmazda · May 2005

Okay, this is my first time posting here on edmunds, so i want to thank you all for your help and apologize if this question has been answered before, i looked but did not see it. Here it is, i have a 95 protege, 5-speed. The car drives fine, but after shifting into second gear or above, as soon as i release the throttle, i get a grinding sound/vibration that can be felt throughout the car. This happens in gears 2-5 and only when i don't give it any gas. As soon as i step on the gas pedal, the noise stops, and as soon as i let up, it starts up again. It doesn't seem to affect the power or anything, but i'm getting pretty worried about it. The noise will continue even if i put the car in neutral. this makes me think its not a transmission problem, maybe something with the axle??? any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
pete

sliu1 · May 2005

My Mazda Protege 2000 has 70,000 miles on it and the charge light comes on sometimes. This started occuring recently. I measured the charge voltage, and it is as high as 18 volt when the light is not ON and when it went down to 16 when the charge light started on. I went to a shop and tested the battery. It's OK but the alternator is bad. Then I bought a alternator and replaced it. About a week later, the light went on again. I brought the alternator back to the shop and they tested the alternator. The stator was bad so replaced it with another one. When I installed it, the light kept on. The voltage is 14.2 when engine is on and 13.2 when the engine is off. The shop tested it and the stator was bad again. They refunded my money and I bought one from another shop. The charge light now is occasionally on. & the belt is adjusted well. I don't what the heck is wrong with the car . Thanks in advance for advice.

bluem6i · May 2005

I don't know if this will work for a 97 but here is a previous key programming post...

1. Open driver's door
2. Turn the key to on position (not ACC, but ON)
3. Turn the key off and REMOVE it.
4. Repeat the last 2 steps two times removing the key each time. Keep the key out.
5. Press the light switch in the door (that turns the light off when the door closes) three times.
6. There should be a chime similar to when your seatbelt is not fastened. (Mine did not chime but the door locks went down)
7. Press the lock button on your remote two times

alanis · May 2005

mkr8847,
did you get a response for your 95 mazda protege vibration post. I too have a 95 mazda protege and it goes the same thing. At idle it runs fine but when in park and stopped (waiting on a light to turn green) it vibrates quite a lot. Temporaroy fix is to put it in neutral but I want a permanent fix. Please let me know if you have found a fix for the problem as I am barely starting to look into it. Bought this car used a month ago.

Thanks,
O Alanis

rdl2001 · May 2005

Wife's car 95 Protege has had recurring problem with loud squealing of alternator belt when starting/ belt premature failure. I've searched this forum and have found several similar tales. Today while replacing said belt AGAIN (Run Forrest Run) I took the time to check the pulley alignment and, lo and behold, the water pump pulley was about 1/16 th inch out of alignment towards the engine with respect to the drive shaft pulley and the alternator pulley. Very simple to check with a good straight edge (steel ruler) placed against the drive shaft pulley. The alternator is driven from the direction of the water pump so this 1/16 th off center is putting a substantial lateral load on the belt which probably causes overheating, edge friction/wear and eventually leads to glazing and squeal. Replacing the belt temporarily fixes the problem as does over tensioning. Interestingly several posters have mentioned that the squeal sometimes gets worse when the air conditioner is turned on which is counter-intuitive. This actually makes sense since it is increasing the work load of the alternator (electric clutch) which thereby puts an increased tension on the belt segment between the water pump and the alternator. Putting on the headlights can also do this. Anyhow, solution is to shim the waterpump pulley- might also need to get slightly longer mounting screws. In retrospect it now all makes sense because, as far as we can recall, problem began after I had changed the water pump (with a remanufactred part). A great site/reference is http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1026.

Hope this has been helpful to someone.

Good Forum,
RDL

pistol · May 2005

TRYING TO GET MY 99 PROTEGE THROUGH STATE EMISSIONS HAS BECOME A REAL HASSLE. WITH A STEADY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THE CODE PO171 BANK 1 KEEPS COMMING UP (ENGINE RUNNING TOO LEAN).REPLACING THE O2 SENSOR AT $192.00 DIDN'T HELP. REPLACING A TORN FRESH AIR INLET HOSE ALSO DIDN'T CORRECT IT. ANY SUGGESTIONS BEFORE I GO BROKE?

dlm820 · May 2005

I had this same code problem on my 99 ES and it turned out that the intake manifold was bad and the gasket had to be replaced. The part itself was cheap, but the labor turned out to cost me an arm and a leg, but I had no other choice. Talk to your mechanic or delaer and see if replacing this helps.

Good luck.

civiletti · May 2005

Check for a leaky intake manifold gasket.

thepman · June 2005

Okay so I crashed my mazda in a ditch and basically ruined the whole right steering system on the passenger side. (CB joint, shock assembley, steering arm, tie rod, control arm etc). Luckily I have a car savvy friend who said as long as I get the parts he can fix it.

Considering there is about a million parts he said it would just be easier to take everything off and put in a whole new system. Problem is I really dont know what everything grouped together is called, or what I am even searching for..:sick: I am completly utterly lost. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

autonomous · June 2005

How about starting with a good manual? You can try Haynes' Chilton Guide to the Protege available from Autozone or Amazon or even your public library.

botahoopty · June 2005

I have a 93 Protege that is starting to have the same problem. I replaced the battery once and the altinator three times since I bought it a few months ago. The charge light didn't come on then, the car would just die if the battery died, and I'd charge the battery again. It's been a week since the car got out of the shop with a newly installed altinator, it's been running fine but now my battery light comes on all the time. Sometimes it flickers, sometimes it's bright (when I'm maintaining a speed). I tested it twice at Autozone and both the battery and altinator are testing strong. Could it be a sensor? I just noticed that the vacuum hose is unclipped and couldn't find the place to clip it back. Also, my engine makes a bad rattling sound when I start it, someone said it sounds like the engine mount. I'm taking it for an emissions diagnostic Monday. :sick: :lemon: Hopefully its a small problem like a sensor.

jpmazda · June 2005

Broke my ankle badly and so my 2002 5-speed Protege ES sat unused for the last 3 months. Just tried driving it. First, it didn't want to move at all, it felt like it was "stuck" in place until I accelerated more and it finally budged. I only drove a short distance because it's making a really loud metalic scraping sound as I drive. The noise reminds me of the sound of something metal being dragged along the ground (but nothing is being dragged of course...) My dealer is kind of far away so I probably have to go local...any ideas of what the problem could be?

alternator · June 2005

This may sound silly, but if your emergency brake is "on", that is exactly the sort of sound you will hear.

jpmazda · June 2005

No, the E brake wasn't on when I drove. Wish it were that easy :>) Thanks.

grwillia · June 2005

I have been fighting the squealing belt on my daughter's car for several months.

Very much the same thing.. Change the belt, squeal, tighten, squeal, bust, replace, tighten, squeal.. replace alternator... repeat. I paid to have the waterpump and timing belt replaced... it was a nightmare, but I am beginning to wonder about the waterpump. and the shimming..

Please advise if your waterpump shimming method works

jjh3 · June 2005

1999 Mazda Protege ES with 51000 miles misses at 3000 rpm in high gear (automatic) and is very noisy at idle at the timing belt end of the engine. Also sounds as if a spark is jumping somewhere near the timing belt end at idle.....I'm waiting for the sun to go down! Car was running perfectly prior to a highway trip at 80 mph. Where should I start? Car seems to run fine at 70-80 mph.

jjh3 · June 2005

well I dug into it a little bit further.........bought an Actron OBD-II Autoscanner and found no codes. Pulled the valve cover off and found a groove worn in the timing belt and a spring stuck up in the valve cover above the cam gears.....not sure what that spring was/is for (maybe for an idler pulley?), but I hope not too many pieces are missing! I guess it's time to take it over to my favorite Mazda dealer......I change the timing belt on a Mazda 929 once with DOHC and I will never do that again.

joe390 · June 2005

I had the same problem with mine. I will provide you with the series of events. Went through several Dayco belts(Pep Boys), and one on this forum felt that the belts I was using was a problem. After at least 3 Dayco belts went bad very prematurely, I searched for a Gates belt, found that NAPA belts are made by Gates, and installed one. I also was hearing bearing noise which I believed was the water pump. Shortly after, the car broke down, with both belts missing. I found that the air conditioning compressor bearing was frozen, thus throwing the belts i believe. I again installed a gates alternator belt, and a power steering belt without the AC connected. It has been fine since. OK, from all of this, I never was able to verify whether the Gates belt fixed the problem since the air compressor froze up shortly thereafter. It would not seem that the AC compressor was causing the original problem with the alternator , as it is driven from a seperate belt, but the problem is now gone. Although I can't explain it, I think the AC compressor may have somehow been contributing to the problem, if not, then the difference in belts did fix the problem. Did you have the problem with Gates belts from the start, if so, try a belt that does not include the AC to rule that out, if equipped. Hope this helps.

joe390 · June 2005

1995 Mazda Protege bucks in first gear, but ok when shifts. Any one else encountered this problem? Obviously, the transmission is suspect, but I thought there may be something else I am not aware of .

miket1 · June 2005

Excellent info. Based on these posts I now think it's the water pump pulley alignment, but I will attempt to check tonight. Of course, the mechanic said the belts/pulleys were not out of alignment, which lo and behold resulted in an additional alternator replacement job to boot:). Anyway, I recently replaced the alternator/water pump/drive shaft belt myself (because it broke on a Friday afternoon and the mechanic was closed) about 1.5 months ago and, go figure, it hasn't squealed since (I'm not holding out hope for long though). However, I now hear bearing noise coming from under the hood that I didn't hear before. I cautiously rule out the A/C, because even though the belt would squeal when I ran the unit, it would also squeal when I turned on the lights, hit the brakes, turned the steering wheel, etc. Therefore, I conclude that the normal drain on the alternator from operating these devices only impacted the belt tension, thus accentuating the belt squealing that may actually be caused by the water pump pulley instead. Althought not currently happening, the squealing always seemed to be centralized at the alternator pulley, but according to the helpful link posted by someone recently, sqealing can occur elsewhere. Anyway, we'll see what happens when I go back to the mechanic (again!) and tell him to either shim the aftermarket water pump he installed, or replace it with a new one from Mazda.

tsc42 · June 2005

2001 Mazda Protege,5-speed, 40,000 miles- This noise occurs in tight-turning situations such as entering/exiting parking spaces or u-turns. It's a creak or cracking noise. It happens as the wheel is fully turned and slowly accelerating. Sounds as though something is about to break!
Taking it to the dealer next week. But would like to have an idea what to expect.
Thanks for any ideas.

autonomous · June 2005

It's a creak or cracking noise. It happens as the wheel is fully turned and slowly accelerating. Sounds as though something is about to break!

Last year when I had my winter tires installed I heard exactly this type of cracking and creaking. It was coming from my plastic wheel covers which were being pinched by the tires during turns especially. A little grease on the wheel cover contact points and presto no creaking noises!

Suggestion: try to isolate the problem, is it all the wheels or just on one side or just one wheel? Check if there is anything visible obstructing the free movement of the wheels. You can then describe specific symptoms to the service advisor

jrdwyer · June 2005

Assuming that the pads are not totally worn away, it is probably just rust and will go away with a little vigorous braking to clean the rotors. Also, make sure the emergency brake is releasing properly and not stuck.

drsnake · June 2005

Can you tell me (or describe) where the EGR valve (and ports are)?

I'd like to clean mine. I get the P0402 message about every 3K miles (it takes quite a while for it to turn back on after getting work done or disconn battery, but it eventually does). I just want to get the whole engine cleaned up as well (it's my wife's and its filthy)!

jcnadon · June 2005

I recently purchased a used 2001 Mazda Protege ES....the car runs perfect city driving but once taking on the highway with elevated speeds the car pulls hard to the left...it is very hard to keep the car straight. I took it back to the place where I purchased it and they told me it could be the tire pressure, they checked and rotated the tires and said the car was fine, I just drove on the highway again and sure enough the same problem is still occuring. Anyone have any reasoning to this??

zoom zoom king · June 2005

i have the same problem i turn it (CEL) off , and in about an oil change or so it comes back on ( no notice in performance change)

autonomous · June 2005

recently purchased a used 2001 Mazda Protege ES....on the highway with elevated speeds the car pulls hard to the left...it is very hard to keep the car straight.

Sounds like a wheel alignment may be needed. Also, check the state of the tires and look to see if they all match (same size).

When you bought the car did you get it inspected at an independent garage? If not, it may still be a good idea for your peace of mind.

lifeisrich1 · June 2005

Take a peek at your motor mounts. I had some "bucking-like" symptoms on my 91 Maz Prot LX in first gear - found bad motor mount on front (bet engine and radiator) and on top right. Ended up replacing all four of them and the Protege is now a little sweetheart.

lifeisrich1 · June 2005

Sometimes in a tire a belt can start to separate internally and it is hard to see but can cause a pull. Swap the two tires on the same axel and if the pull follows the tire to the other side, replace that tire. Good luck!

lifeisrich1 · June 2005

You may have solved your May 3 post by now, but for the future, muffler holes can be repaired with fiberglass resin and matting. Epoxy would work as well but with fiberglass it is easier to cover a very large area. Clean the muffler surface a round the holes, paint on resin with two or three inches extra around the hole, lay on two or three precut pieces of mat and paint on a little extra resin until the mat is soaked through. I've used this repair a number of times - the fiberglass does not rust and just lasts forever. This repair is less successful if the muffler is close to the engine because of heat. When the muffler is toward the rear of the tail pipe, it works well. Good luck!
Rich

capriracer · June 2005

FYI - As a general rule separated tires don't pull, they vibrate. However a tire can be the source of a pull and frequently the wear pattern is the true cause.

Hope this helps.

jrdwyer · June 2005

Thanks for the idea. I have used fiberglass matt and resin in the past for fiberglass boats, but never thought of using it on metal. I suppose this only works for small holes or a backer plate is necessary. That was our experience with boats.

The muffler flange was too rusted out for repairs. A bad design, in my opinion. The new Bosal muffler I installed was easy to do and works well and should last longer due to a better flange.
Joe

urcrknmeup · June 2005

Have a '91 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.

rdl2001 · June 2005

As best that I can recall the problem began only AFTER I had changed the water pump (was changing timing belt so I figured good time to replace water pump). Used a rebuilt part and squealing did not start until a few weeks (months?) later. I assumed it was the alternator bearing because the alternator pulley felt hot after running it (from cold) for a few minutes. I therefor changed the alternator with a rebuilt unit. It didn't stop the squeal and I actually had the bearings changed on the rebuilt alternator- the rebuild shop thought I was crazy. Anyhow, it continued to make noise/break belts. There was also a buildup of fine rubber powder at the alternator which I attributed to the slippage when it squealed.

Recently I checked pulley alignment with a steel ruler-there is enough space on the outer edge of the inner crankshaft pulley to position the ruler on two points at its edge. It indicated the the waterpump pulley was about1/16 inch off-center (towards the engine block). Similarly, the alternator-crankshaft pulley alignment checked out OK. I used steel 1/4 inch (ID) washers on the inside surface- it is easiest to "glue" them in place with a little silicone RTV. I also changed the bolts to slightly longer ones (6 mm stainless steel from Lowes- I just love stainless) but be careful that they don't foul on the water pump housing. I also added spring lock washers on the outside surface.

Did it work? It seems to. The alternator pulley doesn't get hot after only a few minutes-there isn't a recollection of the fine rubber powder-and the has been no squeal. Only time will tell for sure.

Only additional suggestion would be to make a real shim. As it stands the waterpump pulley is not mating with the water pump shaft mating surface. Rather, it is elevated the thickness of the washers. I think it would be better to make l large shim with a center hole and three mounting holes- you could use the pulley itself as a template. I was thinking of using either copper or aluminum sheet but the Lowes didn't have any. I'm sure I've seen such material in an ACE hardware but there aren't any near where I live.

Hope that this has been helpful.

RDL

rdl2001 · June 2005

I would also check the brakes. Visually inspect the front pads then have some one press on brake pedal while you are looking Would also bleed front lines. You say it only happens at high speed- I would chech at lower speeds, e.g., on deserted road at 25-2-30 mph, really hit the brakes (like a panic stop). I would be surprised if it doesn't pull like it does at higher speed.

RDL

stychentyme · June 2005

Hello, All!

I have a 1999 Mazda Protege LX I recently purchased. I have since noticed that the two rear door panels have become seperated from the door itself at the top right where the window glass comes up. It looks like the panels have warped somewhat over time and popped up. When I took it in to the dealer recently for service, I showed them the problem. They said that they have seen it before. The cost to replace both door panels is about $600 canadian! It looks to me like a factory defect. Has anyone else out there noticed this in their cars? Thanks.

autonomous · June 2005

two rear door panels have become seperated from the door itself at the top right where the window glass comes up. It looks like the panels have warped somewhat over time and popped up.

Does it affect the movement of the window glass or the opening and closing of the doors? Are the door seals still in good shape? Have you had the car out during a rainy day to see if there is any leakage?

Since you bought it second hand, it sounds likely that you would be paying for the repair/adjustment unless you have some kind of warranty from the dealership from whom you bought the car.

zoom zoom king · June 2005

i have the same prob i thought iwas suppose to be like that, im glad u posted now i know

violettj · June 2005

I just got a 99 LX on Friday. My door panels are the same. Thought it was in a wreck but you having the same problem tells me it wasn't.

I hope to get many good years out to this car. It has 64k miles on it and runs ok.

autonomous · June 2005

I just got a 99 LX ... 64k miles on it
Wow, that's an average of about 10k miles per year!

My door panels are the same. Thought it was in a wreck
I would love to see a digital picture of this.

mjezebel · June 2005

I have a similar problem as the one in message 2365, with my 1997 Mazda Protege. The car & A/C work fine while in gear, but when I switch into neutral, the engine has a tendency to stall out on warmer days.

My brother has a 1998 Mazda Protege, and he also has the same problem.

Anyone else?

chicagopro · June 2005

2000 ES; the rear door panel warping started about a year ago for me.

mdaffron · June 2005

I just sold a 2000 ES with 91,100 miles on it. My door panels never freakin' WARPED!

Meade

mazcar · June 2005

Hi all,
i am really in a fix here. I have 96' protegeLX, automatic, bought 3 months back, has 108K miles on it.
It was running fine, now the tacho keeps dipping and going back up again whenever the car is braked in gear (say on a stop light) The engine tends to stall but has not done as of yet. This does not happen when stick is in neutral or in parking position. Also, running the A/C worsens the situation.
otherwise the car is absolutely doing fine.

My mechanic has no clue & keeps suggesting everything under the sun, so i am totally confused. The timing belt has not been ever changed on the car; could that be the reason??

please help!

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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