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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

1585961636474

Comments

  • ozzykidsozzykids Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 5 speed protoge and it will go into gear but will not move anywhere, i have a book on the car but still can not figure out what it is.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    we had a '94 manual accord. we had a cv-joint go, so the cv-joint and "half-shaft" were replaced. the half-shaft was defective and left my wife stranded at an intersection. she could put it into gear, but it wouldn't move forward.

    sounds like a transmission, torque convertor, or driveshaft problem.

    is there transmission fluid in the transmission? can you move it in reverse?
  • ozzykidsozzykids Member Posts: 2
    It has gear oil, and won't go in reverse. It has a transaxle, and no torque converter. I'm thinking now that i maybe this transaxlle thing, but in the book it has a trouble shooting sections on transaxle, but does not have the same problems that i'm having (if it's supposed to be the transaxle).
  • ee74ee74 Member Posts: 13
    I have been having an engine misfire problem. When it first started, it would only happen for a couple seconds, the check engine light would flash then go solid, and everything would be okay for a few weeks. Then, over Christmas, I took it in to have the timing belt changed, and also had the plugs replaced. I asked them to look into the check engine light being on, and they said the code was "random misfire." They thought the new plugs would fix it. The next day, it happened again, only much worse. I had to shut the car off for several minutes and re-start it before it cleared. Took it back to the shop, which then replaced the plug boots and wires. It acted up again on the way home. They now say they will replace my coils, and that's the "only other thing that could cause this." Well, I'm not so sure based on their track record. Any guesses out there as to whether or not this will fix my problem, or what else it could be if not?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Sounds plausible. If you want to check for yourself you can use the service manual found at http://protege5.ugly.net/
    and ask the service advisor if any OBD (on board diagnostic) codes show up. Are you dealing with an independent garage or a Mazda dealership? In any case, best of luck!
  • ee74ee74 Member Posts: 13
    This is an independent garage. I've never used them before, but they specialize in foreign cars and they are very well-recommended. It is going back in today for the coil change; I'll find out Friday if it worked.

    Thanks for the manual link.
  • audprogeaudproge Member Posts: 6
    Had the same problem last year and they only chnged one side of the spark plug wires....needless to say the problem was on the other two cylinders and the problem continued until they admitted they only changed two cylinders. Once the whole spark plug wire set was changed I was problem free.
  • audprogeaudproge Member Posts: 6
    Get quite a shock from the door frame when you exit the car? Any ideas on where there may be a short?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    This time of year I suspect that you're getting a static electricty shock rather than having an electrical short of some type. If it was short, you would get it every time you touched the frame. But since you mentioned you got it when exiting the car, that describes perfectly what usually happens to me a couple of times each winter when I slide out and WHAM, I get that zap in the arm. This almost always seemed to happen at the gas station for some reason, and I was at a loss to figure it out.
    But after a few experiments and a little observation I realized I was exiting the car just a bit different there than I was at home for whatever reason. The conclusion I came to was that if I exited the car and was touchingthe frame as my feet hit the ground, the static buildup was discharged without the ZAP. But if I got out onto the ground without being in contact with the frame, the charge was built up and the next frame contact would dischsrge it with that spark, usually as my arm passed over the door frame and right through any coat I might have on.

    Next time it happens to you, touch the frame again right away. If it's a one time shock, static is the culprit!
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    No short. I often get a serious shock this time of year. Just static electricity.
  • aussiedalaussiedal Member Posts: 1
    Hi ee74 ... I have a 2003 Mazda Premacy (I'm in Australia, not sure if you have this model in the US) and have been having the same problem. I had the timing belt changed and now this is happening all the time. I had it taken to an autoelectrician yesterday and one of the error codes was RANDOM MISFIRE. What happened? Did you get the coils replaced? THANKS, APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE =)
  • cymagencymagen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Mazda Protege.

    Recently my battery died, my trunk was slightly open for a couple days and the light drained the battery. Got it jumped, now it will start on its own, the headlights, brake lights, automatic locks, and automatic windows work. The stereo, the dome lights, the fob to unlock the car, and the trunk lights however DO NOT work. Any ideas??
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Did you check the fuse box for blown fuses?
  • sneekersneeker Member Posts: 5
    Hi All,

    Need help to order the proper Pressure Control Solenoid that going on the control valve in the tranny, The dealer isn't sure which one to order, I have the ode P0745 that points directly at the Pressure Control solenoid. I need a Mazda Part number if anyone has it or who I can contact to order this directly through. Help!!! Called everywhere and practically no one has any idea, quite funny and frustrating at the same time, the dealer parts diagram/list doesn't describe what each solenoid is...Talk about frustrating.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The reason the dealer is having trouble finding the part is that they would not attempt to replace the solenoid but rather the entire transmission. The valve body is a complex part and rather than having the dealers doing field service, Mazda chooses to have them install reman. transmissions (in the end it costs less) when the vehicle is under warranty. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can come up with a number, but just because you have a code, that doesn't mean the part is bad.

    Diagnosing a transmission requires taking line pressures (to find blockages), visual inspection of the fluid, and at least, taking the valve body cover and fluid pan off. If this is all new to you, I'd suggest taking it in.

    Do you at least have a factory service manual?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Anyway, the part number you are looking for is FN01-21-1L1A.
  • sneekersneeker Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the part number and information. I do have the huge Factory Repair Manual. I did the two troubleshooting tests of each solenoid, such as the resistance test and listening for the cleck of each solenoid. The Pressure control solendoid was not in the specified resistance range and the solenoid did not produce a click like all the other ones. I have a pretty good idea on how to replace it on my own, I have someone who has more car repair experience helping me at the same time. But, that part number is what I seriously needed to purchase the Pressure Control Solenoid...I appreciate your help.
  • brandon7brandon7 Member Posts: 1
    The belt in my 97 Mazda Protege that connects to the alternator and the water pump keeps breaking and I'm not sure why. I've been taking it to Midas but they can't seem to figure out the problem. It has broken about six times now and each time they thought they had solved the problem. The last time they said that they realized that the alternator was probably freezing up and causing the belt to burn so I had them replace the alternator. It's only been a few days since then and the belt is squealing again and I know it's going to break anytime. This is getting extremely frustrating and I don't know what to do. Does anybody know what the problem might be? Please help me!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Is the water pump original or has it been replaced? If replaced, then was it an aftermarket rebuild or a new Mazda water pump? Assuming that the alternator is turning fine and the water pump also spins properly and is not leaking, then you may need to check the belt angle from the alternator to the water pump. It is possible that a rebuilt water pump/ pulley is not at the right angle due to sloppy tolerances or wear. Someone else posted on this forum about such an issue. I believe they used a spacer to properly align the water pump pulley to the alternator pulley. If you search back in the forum you might find the post.

    For reference, I have a '95 Protege with the original alternator and 2nd water pump (new Mazda part) and no problems other than occasionally having to tighten the belt when it stretches. 204K miles and still going strong.
  • fbrahmfbrahm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 protege mazda 323 with a dohc 16 valve engine 2 wheel drive and the timing belt broke going 55mph i need to know if this engine is a non interference or interference. can any one tell me for sure?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't think so. Chart at www.gates.com says no.
  • fbrahmfbrahm Member Posts: 2
    i went to gates.com and i cant find this chart. I have read where other people thought they had interference because gates said so and come to find out it was non inter. wondering if there is any were else i can look
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Pretty sure the Proteges didn't have interference engines until the 2000+ DOHC 2.0.
  • bkiffbkiff Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with a 91 ; haynes stops at coil' did you find the problem .im stuck too' would like to no where to go next.bkiff@comcast.net
  • shanecbx3shanecbx3 Member Posts: 2
    My dad has a 1997 Mazda Protege LX Sedan 4D 1.5L, and i have been looking for a Shop Manual for him. The regular manuals that are available to buy just aren't detailed enough and make the work slow and difficult.
    So i came across the post that had a full Shop Manual (http://protege5.ugly.net/), but i don't know if it works with the '97 Protege.

    I cant afford to pay for one off e-bay because im a starvin college student :) so any input is greatly appreciated...

    Also if the two aren't compatible....does anyone know where i can find one online or can someone e-mail me it?
    (shane@dyrdahl.net">link title)
  • 0neal0neal Member Posts: 1
    My 5spd Protege's axles have been replaced. drivers side twice in last 3 months. I have a clanking sound when i accelerate. does it worse when it is cold weather. After about 15 miles it will usually cease. This is driving straight...no turns. I can accelerate slowly and am able to erase sound.. almost! This is very annoying. Could it be the "C" clip on axle? Any advice? Thanks. ONEAL
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    No, the two vehicles are totally different.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Come in out of the winter cold and enjoy some time with your fellow Mazda enthusaists and CarSpace friends!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • cmcjeffcmcjeff Member Posts: 4
    ee74,

    Did you ever find the answer to your misfire? Mine's doing the exact same thing. Replaced both coils, all 4 plugs and the boots and wires. I even checked the injectors... all is ok. But, flashing engine light comes on (randomly) and I lose power, if driving. Any answers yet?
  • cmcjeffcmcjeff Member Posts: 4
    autonomous, did you ever get an answer to ee74's protege random misfire question? Mine's doing the same thing. Thanks.
  • tbladatblada Member Posts: 3
    Hey my 2000 Mazda Protege has a low grinding noise coming from the front driveline. It's only when rolling forward at low speeds. The brake system is entirely new (the problem preceeded the brake system renewal). I think it is from the driver side bearing but when I jack the car up and spin the drive axles there is no noise. Can CV joints or bearings make a low grinding noise? It doesn't sound like metal grinding, it sounds like rolling a bowling ball on pavement (if that helps). I don't want to replace the drive axles if it's the bearings, but I don't want to replace the bearings and have to go back and change out CV's. Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Wow...you've described the sound I've been hearing in my 2000 ES exactly. I've got approximately 60,000 miles, and I started noticing the bowling ball noise last fall when driving at low speeds or coming to a stop.

    Independent garage replaced both front wheel bearings and the noise is still there. After that, I couldn't really afford to have any additional work done without knowing for sure what the problem is.

    If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them, too.
  • tbladatblada Member Posts: 3
    I thought it was the bearings in my Mazda Protege too, but there is also a slight shimmy in the steering(at low speeds), but it's not the breaks. So you got both bearings replaced and still have that low grinding noise? Do you think it's the CV's or even worse, main drive bearings in the tranny? I know the guy I bought the car from and I know he took it easy on it. Replacement axles run $97 each on drivewire.com. I may replace my bearings first since they run $50 and it can't hurt to have new ones.
  • tbladatblada Member Posts: 3
    My dad had the same problem, it was a computer error. He ended up replacing the computer and within a few minutes the car ran like new. May want to check your computer out!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I haven't heard a word about it since. Hope everything worked out. Are you going through a similar situation?
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    I haven't noticed any shimmying in the steering, nor problems with the brakes. Yep, both front bearings replaced ($500), and still hear the noise. Garage then tried to tell me it was uneven wear in my tires.

    I'm not that knowledgable about cars, so I don't know if it could be the CVs or tranny.
  • ee74ee74 Member Posts: 13
    To let everyone know, the coils did end up fixing my random misfire problem. The car has been running great ever since.

    BUT... while it was running in the random misfire mode, it looks like I might have messed up my catalytic converter. I now have a check engine light on with an "inefficient converter" code. I'll be taking it into the shop next week to have them look at it.

    Anyone have an idea if this will most likely affect the "warm up" catalytic converter up by the manifold, or the actualy in-line unit that is much cheaper to repair?
  • heathernkennyheathernkenny Member Posts: 1
    Could a cracked muffler cause an exhaust leak and a rattling noise from the muffler when pressing the gas?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Yes.
  • cponcpon Member Posts: 1
    jdybber,

    Have you determined the cause of the rough idle for your Mazda Protege?

    I am experiencing the same problems!
  • cmcjeffcmcjeff Member Posts: 4
    I tried everything. Finally replacing the EGR (or is it ERG?) valve seems to have fixed it. I will know in the next week or two.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    EGR (or is it ERG?)
    You were right the first time. This seems to be a common issue. When I had a rough idle on my 2002 Protege5 last summer my Mazda service representative remarked "I bet it's the EGR, we've replaced a lot of them on the Proteges". As in your case, once the new EGR was in place, my car was back to normal. :)
  • cmcjeffcmcjeff Member Posts: 4
    Remember how I said I would know in a few weeks? Well it only took 1 week. The CEL is back on and I am baffled. I get a random misfire code. I've replaced coils, wires, plugs, EGR valve, checked the injectors and I have no loose screws near the "butterfly things". Anybody out there have any suggestions?
  • mirde98mirde98 Member Posts: 95
    Hello everybody. A co-worker of mine is moving and im interested in acquiring her 2001 Protege. The car is 61K and she's never been a maintenece fan of car's, the car looks good and i drove it around town, drives good, it is dirty (hasn't seen a wash in more than 6 months) but that i can fix with a good wash and full detailing. I never had a Mazda before, so i was just wondering what should i look for in this Protege. Is a DX with AUTO trans. Manual windows and locks. Has A/C and CD radio. Silver on gray interior. :):)
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    Does she have any records showing any type of maintenance or service being performed on said vehicle? Mazda Protege' is a great vehicle (I'm still driving my 92 LX) that will last for a good while but you have to perform preventive maintenance on it to keep it working.
  • junglejetjunglejet Member Posts: 1
    Hello All, I previously owned a 2000 protoge LX. It was totaled a couple of years ago. I still have haynes manual 1993 - 2000, Parts list from factory manual and set of Spark plug wires from Pepboys which i only used for a couple of weeks. I am looking to get rid of these if anyone is intrested Please E-mail me at junglejet2@yahoo.com. I will gladly send them to you for FREE providing you pay shipping cost.
  • acletneracletner Member Posts: 1
    Hello All:
    I purchase a 00 Protege brand new about 7 years ago. I had no real issues with it until I hit about 135K miles. I have gone through 7 belts in the past 6 months. It's not the same belt though. Once it was my serpentine belt and then once I changed that my water pump belt would go. I took it to a mechanic about 2 weeks ago to have him check it and he said that he didn't see anything out of the ordinary. He said that all my pulley's are okay and nothing looked wrong. I still have a squealing belt (normally only when the heater is on). I can't figure it out nor can my father, father-in-law. Does anyone have any idea what would be causing the squeal?
  • dstrongchicagodstrongchicago Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Protege with 112000 mi. Within the last year, I've been having some electrical issues. I have one headlamp that dims, then after a few weeks it goes out, followed shortly thereafter by the other going completely out. I replace them both and they both work fine for a few weeks, then the cycle starts again. In addition, I was pulled over (on New Years Eve, of all times) because my brakelights apparently stopped working when my headlights were on. The brakelight problem has not happened again since then, but I'm assuming it's only a matter of time. I'm also spending a small fortune in headlamps that need replacing every two months or so. Does anyone have any advice on what I can do short of replacing pieces of my entire electrical system one-by-one until the problem stops?? Please help me! I like my car, but I'm going broke!!!
  • 2002pro22002pro2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Pro 2.0 LX, and recently i was driving in a snow storm and gently slid off the road i hit a small pile of snow thinking nothing of it i kept driving home, then i realized my steering wheel was not straight when the wheels were and i could hear a rubbing noise from the passenger side wheel..next day i put it on the lift, saw nothing broken or damaged at all, then i reved it up and saw nothing wrong but i still hear something rubbing..maybe wheel bearing?...please help!!! :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    best go to an alignment shop (not a chain store). You could have bent a tie rod but perhaps it's nothing more than a quick alignment. The rubbing might be a dislodged piece of plastic liner under there.
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