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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Try unplugging the air flow sensor and then starting the car. If it starts, look to make sure the vane is moving freely in the AFS and that it returns to the closed position on its own. If it doesn't, start shopping for a rebuilt or used one.
  • dinorocksdinorocks Member Posts: 2
    you are talking about the mass air flow sensor.? that 200 to 300 dollor part... i was hoping it was just the O2 sensor.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Well try unplugging it first and see if the car starts. If that does it, then go rob a bank to pay for it.

    The O2 sensor will do nothing for you.
  • dlg_1dlg_1 Member Posts: 1
    A couple weed ago I noticed my 2000 Protégé (1.6) was cranking progressively slower during startup. (I bought the car used over a year ago and had no idea how old the battery was.)
    The alternator seems okay because once it’s started the car run fine with full headlights, etc.
    This past Sunday, after having sit for two days, there was nothing when I turned the key, not even a click.
    I replaced the battery Sunday night with a new Die-Hard and Monday morning it started fine and cranked hard.
    Now this morning, (Tuesday) the battery is completely dead.
    Anyone have any ideas what could suddenly be draining my batteries?

    Thanks in advance.
    ~David
  • jaccobkjaccobk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 mazda protege 1.6 DX. Whenever the fuel level gets to about a quarter of a tank it acts like it is not getting enough gas. Runs fine when it has more gas in the tank. I am thinking it is probably a clogged filter or fuel pump is going out. I was hoping someone could give any advice, and if it is the pump or filter please tell me the best way to replace it. Thanks
  • anniealleanniealle Member Posts: 1
    David,

    I am having the same problem. But recently I have figured out how to find out what's doing it. Something has grounded. To test and see what it is,,,hook a test light to your battery,,,,inside your fuse box(inside the car) remove each fuse,,,the one that keeps the light on the tester is the problem. A wire has grounded. Trace that wire and you've got it. It was my horn wire.Had a tiny worn spot from aging and vibes on a bumpy road. This problem drove me nuts for three months.
  • jones6826jones6826 Member Posts: 3
    Where is the fuel filter located on 2003 Mazda Protege? Thank you so much for your help with this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    he High Pressure and the Low Pressure Fuel Filters are located in the Fuel Tank on the Fuel Pump Unit, to replace either Fuel Filter you must remove the Fuel Pump from the Fuel Tank.
  • jones6826jones6826 Member Posts: 3
    Could the fuel filter be a cause for the motor cutting out when accelerating?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah but I'd be more inclined to test for a bad fuel pressure regulator, also basic tune up. A fuel filter would have to be pretty clogged up, drastically so.
  • jones6826jones6826 Member Posts: 3
    Do you know of any procedures to test/replace the fuel pressure regulator? Where its located?

    Your help is very much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need a pressure gauge and proper fittings to break into the fuel injection rail. Then you need to know the specs at cranking and at idle speeds. It's best to have a repair manual to talk you through these procedures, or go to a shop and have the test done.

    It should read 30 - 36 psi with the fuel pressure regulator connected and 39-45 psi with the fuel pressure regulator disconnected.

    This test would tell you if the fuel system is substandard in some way. If it reads okay, you go on to other areas such as ignition or sensors.
  • koganagensukoganagensu Member Posts: 1
    My 97 mazda protege has just started acting up lately. It was fine for a while and now i have to hold the key to start for more than a second to start. After that i will sit in neutral and half the time when i put a little gas on it the engine will knock and either turn back on or just stop. on the occasion where i get it to go around the corner when i get it to about second gear it will cut out and stop. can i get some help please this is my first car and i dont want to lose it.T_T :cry:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    have to hold the key to start for more than a second to start ... half the time when i put a little gas on it the engine will knock and either turn back on or just stop
    I would start by checking the battery and then the alternator. You are likely not on the original battery but might be using the original alternator. If so, the alternator becomes the more likely suspect.

    It might be wise to find a garage you trust and have them check out the car for you. You may find that there are other problem areas (example: spark plugs) and the garage may suggest a schedule for their replacement/repair.
  • gerard8153gerard8153 Member Posts: 1
    Help please, I need step by step instructions in removing the center console. I'm needing to reach the air condition fan switch, in order to fix it. The wiring behind the switch has loosened and will work, then stop and then work again. I want to check that because after messing (turning it off and on)with it starts working. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    what year is your car?
  • shelly81shelly81 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Mazda Protege with about 85,900 miles on it.

    Sometimes when I make a sharp turn, doesn't matter if it's a left or right turn, my car stalls out. It doesn't sputter, it's more like someone flipped a switch. I'm able to turn my car right back on and it runs normally.

    What could this be?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Power steering pump. Does it make any strange noises when this happens?
  • shelly81shelly81 Member Posts: 2
    No weird noises, it just feels like the wheels lock up.

    About how much will it take to replace a power steering pump?
  • brian374brian374 Member Posts: 5
    Yesterday, my car's temp guage was nearing hot or at hot on my commute home. I noticed some antifreeze on the ground, but didn't appear to be leaking from under the engine anywhere. When I popped the hood, the only steam coming out was by the antifreeze coolant box. It was boiling hot and overflowing, dripping out causing steam. I continued on my 40 mile commute home with no issues, just stopping periodically to cool the engine down. I would keep the heat on high to try and drain some of the heat away from the engine, but later no heat would generate, only cold air. No warning lights came on the dash, car seems to run and start fine. What do you think the issue is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first of all, driving home like this was not a good idea. Next time, call for a tow.

    But hopefully you had good luck and no engine damage and so you need to look for the source of your overheating problem.

    Overheating is caused by a complex range of possible issues and has to be approached methodically, going from the simple to the complicated, and from the most likely to the least likely.

    The reason you have no heat is that you have low or no coolant in the system.

    But to the diagnosis:

    1. A leak somewhere -- this can be tested doing a 'pressure test' on the cooling system with a pump

    2. Stuck thermostat -- remove, test and inspect

    3. inoperative electric cooling fans -- test and observe

    4. clogged radiator -- this can be "flow-tested" by a radiator shop

    5. air in cooling system -- when new coolant was added, system was not properly purged of air with bleed screws or using approved filling methods

    6. bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head -- tested with pressure testing pump, and look for coolant on spark plugs or air bubbles in radiator.

    good luck with it! Hope it's one of the simple ones.

    Visiting Host
  • brian374brian374 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the information. The odd thing is, the car runs just fine. When it was at hot, still performed great. The temp gauge would surge up to H, then down a bit. Kept doing that over and over. The coolant container was boiling hot. Now no heat comes from the heater inside. I'll be taking it into the garage tonight. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Engines like to run hot actually but once you start to lose the coolant, it's a whole different ball game and one where the engine strikes out every time.
  • brian374brian374 Member Posts: 5
    The other odd thing was the coolant never dropped below the full line. Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if it's overheating the coolant expands rapidly and it may show full in the overflow tank but you'd need to check it when cold, too.

    From what you say I'm thinking the cooling fans cut out perhaps. If you had a chronic overheat you'd never have made it home. When at freeway speed, you don't need the fans as much, if at all, to cool the car down.

    So the general rule (with exceptions) is:

    low speed overheat/traffic---cooling fans or other air circulation issue

    high speed overheat-- coolant circulation issue

    very fast overheat within 5-10 minutes of driving --- head gasket/blocked or stuck thermostat
  • brian374brian374 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks again. I did hear the fans kick on when at a stop periodically. But I didn't check the fluid level when the car was completly cold. Will do that. With this problem, I still managed to drive it 40 miles home. Speed ranged from 35-70. I went back roads so I didn't have to stop as often.
  • alalimealalime Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Mazda Protege. When I tried to start it yesterday morning, the engine was turning over, but it just wouldn't start. Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • jarred27jarred27 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 protege and is i was driving the car started overheating. now i stopped and waited for the engine to cool down the i added some water to the small tank because it was empty. i started driving and the car eventually cooled down to normal. the next morning i added some more water but i found what appears to be oil in the tank. can anyone tell me what this means? will i still be able to drive my car? what do i have to do to fix the car and is it costly?
  • merf888merf888 Member Posts: 1
    I copied this from another post. I have the exact same symptoms. I would greatly appreciate any help. Have a '95 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.
  • slavutaslavuta Member Posts: 9
    Just want to post a solution to a common Protege Problem.
    Car: 98 Protege ES, 1.8L, Manual Trans
    Symptoms:
    Rough idle - when disconnect clutch, the engine goes below normal idle.
    Check Engine light is on. OBD-II code P0240. Light may turn off for some time.

    Problem:
    Main air intake is leaking between air filter and intake manifold.

    Solution:
    Replace the plastic pipe OR
    Use medical gauze to wrap the pipe in between ribs to close air leaks. And on top of that wrap tightly with flexible duct tape.
    The light should go off after 3 full cycles (car fully cools off - warms up)

    How it works:
    The code P0240 Suggests that it is one of these:
    1. your catalyst is not working (O2 sensors before and after the cat read the same).
    2. Main vacuum leak
    3. Something terrible in the engine with the valves.

    I had new OEM O2 sensor up front installed earlies same year for fuel economy issue (BTW-it worked!) so I didn't think that was an issue.
    I drove alot and didn't see catalyst overheat.
    I checked all vacuum hoses for leaks and found cracks in the intake. I decided to fix that and magically it fixed rough idling and check engine. Enjoy!
  • carson13carson13 Member Posts: 1
    i am replacing my muffler
    everything up to my catalylic converter has been removed
    i have done minor repairs on my car but i am hard up for money so i am going to be doing this myself
    i have the new muffler and i am going to get the piping for it
    what i am looking for is information on how to put it all together
    it is a sohc
    and it is split piping
    sorry if i am not using the correct mechanics language i am new to this
    i just dont want to do it myself without any advice and have it fall off or not work correctly
    but i am open to any suggestions
    im trying to get this done as soon as possible because i am moving to california and i have to have it in tip top shape to not only pass emissions but to also be able to hold my own against the never ending traffic in la
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    You might want to check out your local public library or a store like Autozone for a copy of the Haynes repair manual for the Mazda 323 / Protege.
  • ronbchampronbchamp Member Posts: 1
    I put a new batterry in it a few months ago. Starter is new and charging system is fine. As the oudoor temp drops the engine noticealby cranks slower. At about 0 deg F or colder I have to use a booster pack to start it. Even then sometimes it floods because it cranks so slow.

    This morning I did the booster pack thing and got the car started. When I walked to the front of the car one of the belts was squeeling. This is when I noticed my power steering pulley barely turning. It was like the ps pump was frozen. My question is how can a ps pump freeze??? Ps fluid does not freeze!! I don't care how cold it is.
    I can see how the pulley not turning would cause my hard starting especially in the cold but what would cause it to do that.

    I had this problem last winter too but didn't realize it was the ps pump slowing everything down. I have never had any problems with my power steering whatsoever. It doesn't leak, there's no water in the resevoir, and it steers fine.

    Has anyone else heard of this kind of problem and what the solution might be?
  • gjohnson325gjohnson325 Member Posts: 1
    Slavuta I have something similar to what you're desribing but I have a Auto Trans with 100k. My check engine light has been on for a few months and the computer says it's the timing censor. Just a few days ago my car has began having a weird idle where it drops below normal and sometimes jumps and eventually turns off if the car isn't put into drive. If I stop at a traffic light it cuts off but cranks back. Is this the timing censor ?
  • wearbearwearbear Member Posts: 1
    My temperature gauge moves up to slowly when i start driving. It will only go up quarter of the way, where as normally it stays between the cold and hot. I am guessing it is my thermostat. If it is could i replace it myself. I have a 2001 mazda protege 1.6 litre manual transmission. Also before replacing it where can i find it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, you could have a "lazy" thermostat combined with colder weather setting in.

    If your engine temperature drops too low, the thermostat should close again to raise the temperature to operating level.

    Here's a description of how it works;

    Thermostat Function

    Your thermostat is in a housing at the end of the LOWER radiator hose, where it enters the cylinder head.

    When installing, the "jiggle pin" on the thermostat points toward the top, and the sealing ring on the gasket faces the cylinder head.

    The part is about $18 and the book says it takes a mechanic about 1 hour. You'll have to drain your coolant beforehand and probably take off some parts of the air cleaner for access.

    Good luck!
  • spetzspetz Member Posts: 3
    I just joined up, and am very interested in all the interesting posts. Just got my second Protege, a 2000 auto with 68k on it. Seems to run well, but on a trip over the weekend, my passengers feet began to freeze. When we traded places, I found that there was a lot of cold air coming into the passengers side from under the dash, and very little warm air. This is not good in a Wisconsin winter. Does anyone know what might be going on? Didi gremlins remove a piece of my dash? I also noticed the glove box is equally cold, Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    lot of cold air coming into the passengers side from under the dash, and very little warm air.
    Have you tried setting the controls to "feet only" and maximum heat? If no or low heat is coming through on the passenger side and the driver's side is fine there could be some blockage or a closed flap on the passenger side.
  • spetzspetz Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the ideas. I did try the heat only on the feet and the cold wind continued. It seemed as if there was a direct wind from the engine compartment into the passenger's side. Where might I find those "flaps" and what would I do if I found them? Do you have an idea how many there are and where they are? Thanks a lot!
  • NJStyleeNJStylee Member Posts: 2
    I need some advice in regards to an issue I'm having with my 2003 Protege 5.

    It started a month ago when my car started having problems accelerating. I would hit the gas but the car would just crawl. If I pumped the pedal, it would eventually accelerate. Once the car was moving, I had no more problems. The check engine light came on and I took it to a mechanic. The reading from the computer was a random misfire, and further inspection of the vehicle revealed that my coil pack boots deteriorated and allowed excessive moisture in which shorted the spark plug wires. My engine would not accelerate because the plugs were misfiring. They put new plugs, plug wires, and boots in. Engine light off, car ran fine

    This past week I started having this problem again. And today it got much worse. The car hangs on accelerating...in both forward and reverse. The engine, in both drive, idle and even more so when breaking, starts rumbling and I hear the sound of something slipping very faintly. The transmission (which was what I thought it originally was) shifts gears just fine. Again, once the car is moving it stays in motion. No stalling, no rumbling. But it is getting harder and harder to accelerate. And when I try my engine sputters and sounds like its going to stall. The engine light came on and when I pressed the gas to try and get it moving, the engine light flashed about 5 times and went solid again. I popped the hood once I made it home to see if I could find anything making a weird noise and found nothing (I have had this car for over 5 years and know what it sounds and feels like). When I killed the engine I heard a whooshing sound (similar to wind through a cracked window) coming from the air filter and vaccum hoses. I restarted the car, and killed it several more times and heard this noise every time. Now, I have never noticed this noise before so I don't know if this is normal or not, but I know it can be the sign of a cracked hose or something with the air in take. But I'm no mechanic. The car starts just fine and seems to run in idle ok, but once I try to drive it the problems start.

    Sorry this is so long but just to summarize:

    little to no acceleration unless I really work the pedal

    Car runs perfectly fine once it gets going

    rumbling in the engine ad very rough vibrations once I slow down and go back to idle or just have my foot on the brake while in any gear

    whooshing sound when I kill the engine for several seconds

    transmission shifts just fine. No grinding or clanking noises when shifting.

    new spark plugs, wires, and coil pack booots installed a month ago

    car has 97,500 miles (approx)

    If anyone could give me some ideas of what might be wrong it would be appreciated. Im "cartarded" and am really trying to learn more about cars, maintenance, and how to diagnose problems. Thanks!
  • bdkaybdkay Member Posts: 6
    My 2003 Mazda Protege (manual transmission) did not present with acceleration problems but it did have the check engine light come on for 2 years before the problem was nailed down.

    All the stuff you are talking about is good stuff to do. We had all that and more done. At the end the car was really sucking gas - do you have the problem - and running rough. If yours is doing the same have the fuel injectors checked as this was the final solution to our problem. One bum injector and possibley three more. Mechanics also asked if we had been using cheap gas as that will gum up an injector. Have you been using cheap gas?

    Five months later and the car is running like a young hot rod after the repair. Good luck and let me know.
  • cindyhalecindyhale Member Posts: 1
    I read in this forum about another situation where a Mazda was running hot but there wasn't a post where it was mentioned exactly what had caused the problem or how to fully resolve it, so I am asking for help in that regard.

    PROBLEM:
    The guage on my car will go to H (all the way up) UNLESS I am running my heater all the way on 4. The mechanic says I have no radiator issues, fan issues, or gasket issues. He says "the thermometer might be sticking". Does that sound right? If it was "sticking", wouldn't it stay "stuck" instead of moving up only when the car is moving? I am worried that I am somehow damaging my car by continuing to drive it while that needle is on H.

    QUESTIONS:
    If anyone else has this problem and have continued to drive on H, has it damaged your car?

    If it actually "stuck" how can I get it fixed so it works properly? The mechanic didn't offer any options there.

    Thank you,
    CH
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    If it actually "stuck" how can I get it fixed so it works properly? The mechanic didn't offer any options there.

    Curious. Didn't the mechanic suggest a new thermostat? You may want to take it to another garage for a second opinion.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    spetz, this is a known problem that can be fixed. there is a mazda TSB (Technical Service Bulletin). I suggest taking it to a reputable shop who has access to mazda TSBs, or to a dealer. I recall there are DIY instructions online somewhere if you're so inclined.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    I suspect your mechanic is right.

    You're right to be concerned about driving when the temperature is H. Don't do it!

    Have the thermostat replaced, it should not be expensive. A new thermostat is <$20, some coolant will need to be replaced, and <1 hour labor.
  • spetzspetz Member Posts: 3
    Hey, thanks a lot! I will look to the DIY first. If you have a clue where to find instructions, plz let me know. My passenger and I thank you...
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    I saw a writeup on this when I was doing pre-buy research. I just spent 30 minutes searching, and cannot find the source. It had to be on one of the online protege/323 forums. You might try posting on clubprotege, mazdas247, and others.

    I recall the problem was with improper sealing around the heater blower, and the repair was fairly involved.
  • NJStyleeNJStylee Member Posts: 2
    Ok so here's what happened:

    I took your advice and did a band aid fix by filling the tank and putting fuel injector cleaner in. The car, once warmed up, ran fine but engine light still on. But no acceleration problems.

    Took it to the same mechanic and they could not figure it out. The code on the computer gave a random misfire at 0 mph (engine light went off while attempting to accelerate). He said that in order to figure it out without going in and tearing everything apart, they would need to see the engine cold and advised dropping it off and leaving it sit overnight at the shop to be reviewed in the morning. He said they got nothing telling them it was an o2 sensor or lean fuel mixture. But couldnt be certain unless they ran it cold and tried to duplicate the problem. they cleared the codes, engine light off, car ran fine for a week. i allow my car to fully warm up before going anywhere, especially with the cold nights and mornings we have had here in NJ.

    A week goes by and car starts acting up again...but not nearly as bad. one time since, the car was in idle warming up and i felt it shake periodically, very gently but noticably, for a few seconds and then stop. i will get an occasional hang in acceleration, but by gently working the gas, the car seems to overcome it and resumes normal acceleration. and it occurs less than half the time i drive.

    however, its very interesting to note that i seem to have the problem more often and worse when its wet or very moist out. for example last saturday it snowed very lightly and my car was out in it for 3 hours since i reached my destination that evening. started fine, but a few miles up the road it started hanging on acceleration again. i got home and didnt drive again that night. next day car worked fine. and for the past few days, again, a few minor periodic hangs in acceleration. however the engine has not been violently shaking when slowing down and going back to idle like it did last time. and the engine light has not come back on.

    as far as bad gas is concerned, i dont know what you mean. nor would i know the difference. i usually get gas at the lukoil up the street. however for about 3 years strait at my old residence, i would always stop and get wawa gas as it was the cheapest around and on my way home from work.

    im not sure if my fuel economy is struggling. its hard to tell since my commute to work and back is less than 4 miles round trip. and i havent been driving the car that much in fear of having a problem and being far from home. im actually still on the same tank of gas that the injector cleaner was mixed into.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    seem to have the problem more often and worse when its wet or very moist out.
    I wonder if condensation is affecting your spark plugs as the car warms up.

    the engine has not been violently shaking when slowing down and going back to idle like it did last time. and the engine light has not come back on.
    My 2002Protege 5 had a serious shaking problem when the EGR valve failed. The EGR issue is a common problem of Proteges, according to my mechanic.
  • mgmazdamgmazda Member Posts: 1
    I baught a 2001 Mazda Protege last april. I love this car. It's great. I have run into some problems with it tho. My oil pressure continously blinks and I've recently had to stop driving it. My car idles fine. But if i try to drive it anytime i get over 2500 Rpm it's starting knocking and clanging. I don't know much about this car it's the frist mazda i've owned. My grandfather is an old fashion mechanic. He can work on any chevy or ford you throw at him. But when it comes to my car he is clueless. I told him about my low oil pressure and he said that it sounded like my oil pump was weak. I've looked everywhere for and oil pump for my car. Nobody has one. Most people say they've never heard of it and then others say they have. I'm very confused. Does my car have an oil pump? If not how do i fix it? The nearest mazda dealership is in missouri. I can't afford to have it towed. What could cause this problem? Where can i find the parts to get it fixed?
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