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Once that is known, then one can work on possible solutions. You're just guessing here. You may end up doing lots of work for nothing.
Here, read up on this, I think you'll find it helpful!
Diagnosing Low Oil Pressure--Symptoms and Causes
Your instructions (2765)on horn repair for a 92 Mazda were right on. Tried it today and used styrafoam instead of regular foam and it seems to work fine now. Problem was at low temps the horn blew continuously. We will see how the styrafoam works out over time.
Don
I am thinking about buying a used 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 112K miles on it. How much do repair costs on this model run in general?
I have heard that Mazdas are expensive to fix compared to other cars. Is this true for the Protege?
Thanks.
Notes about the job:
* The map light plastic assembly is held in place by 2 metal prongs on this model auto. These prongs are located at either end of the assembly, baton-wise. That is to say that if the assembly were a boat, the 2 shorter, pointier ends which would hold the boat's motor are the positions where the retaining force is. Waste less time knowing this; don't end up like me and puzzle over it for 9 months!
* Once you have the assembly free, you probably want to unsecure the wiring. This can be done by hand by pushing *very hard* on the raised pressable portion of the wiring uniter clip, and simultaneously pulling the clip apart. (Twice for 2 clips)
* If your "map light" switch has become inoperative, it might be due to an ejected tiny tiny screw near the switch itself. Try hard to recover the screw inside the assembly. If you can't find it, do what I did and take apart small electronics for a few years so that you can easily find a matching screw. Once you have located these screws, you only need to do the hard work of screwing the spring switch back into place; then your lamp should be switchable again!
* Any problems with moonroof switches are unknown. That's up to you.
Fog Light Lamp replace job:
Wow, this took twice as long as expected, with the "assembly is reverse of disassembly" really biting into my day.
To start with, go to Auto Parts and pick up one of the "H3" bulbs. Wal Mart had 'em in my area.
On this model Protege, the fog light hard plastic assembly has a 10mm bolt holding it in place. The bolt is on the underside of the auto, directly under the fog light itself. Be careful *NOT* to reach for the recessed 10mm bolt in a similar location with plastic around it; this is for expert personnel who wish to tune the "aim" of the fog light. The one you want should come with a washer and be a bit coppery.
Once you have the bolt removed and set aside, it's just a matter of pushiing and pulling and perhaps unwedging the assembly with flat screwdrivers, before you get the assembly pulled out about 2 or 4 inches where you can see the backside. (note that the right and left fog lights are set up with differing wiring, so one side's fog light might pull out 2 or 3 inches more than the other side)
Once you can see the backside, there are 2 Phillips screws which need to come off. It's a really tight area, so you'll be helping yourself out a whole lot it you get a short ratchet drive Phillips head or a short short screwdriver.
With those 2 screws gone and set aside, you can just about pull the bulb out. (At least you can see it now). First you need to unspring the retainer spring. Find the end which is hiding under some plastic which has an opening to the side. You will then move the spring through the open area and unspring it.
Replacing the bulb is quite easy at this point. Remember:
* Your replacement will also be a halogen bulb. Never handle the glass with your fingers. Wipe down the bulb with a clean cloth if you do. Grab the new bulb by the metal base only.
* Your newer bulb has a wire and slotted thing coming from it. Remove the identical slotted thing associated with the old bulb by looking inside the half shrink-wrapped wire, and PULL the wire. Inserting the new bulb's wire lead works in reverse.
Once you have the newer bulb in, you need to re-spring the stell clip. This is pretty difficult with bare hands; I recommend use of a short-head pliers to assist you in re-locking that dumb spring.
With the newer bulb in and wires connected, you may test the lamp. Success? Yay!
Now you will want to manually stuff the remaining wiring portion into the assembly and close it up. Reinsert the 2 Phillips screws and reattach the rear circular wall.
You might be almost there now. The fog light assembly hopefully is hanging in front of the auto, dangling by a few inches of wire. Before you shove it back in, look hard at the assembly. Look again. You hopefully see 2 circular firm protrusions at the right and left side of the fog light. Look inside the bumper and you'll see where these knobs will have to end up for final positioning.
Insert the fog light, trying from memory to line up those knobs on the right and left. It might take a few tries, and it takes some light pounding, but eventually you will see, at bottom, the hole for the 10mm coppery bolt and washer. Once you have the hole visible through the bumper plastic, you are there! Screw in the 10mm bolt and you are finished. Congratulations! :shades:
Now if somebody wants to write up practical ideas for the "aiming" of these things; that would be awesome.
TSB: 07-001/01
1999-00 Protege - COLD AIR LEAKS AT BLOWER AND COOLING UNIT FOAM SEALS
Info is available here: http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/
EGR Valve clogs up, resulting in rough idle and poor economy.
If you're handy you can clean it yourself, or replace it. Part is around $100.
Air intake leaks, resulting in rough idle and poor economy. The accordian-like hose from the air cleaner to the intake manifold often cracks over time. Part is about $35, fairly easy repair.
Clunk in rear suspension in cold weather. Anti-swaybar bushings and/or endlinks are the culprit. If you don't mind the sound it's generally not a problem.
The internals on the Protege motors are bombproof. There's no reason maintenance would be higher than any other car. Most Mazda fanatics stay away from the dealers for maintenance.
I found the correct wiring in a 02 mazda miata book lol and mines a 00 protege lol I found and traced that wire in the diagram and also found it went to the computer. There is a problem I hate with the car tho is the fuse relay box under the hood is a matrix pattern of circuts u cant physically see/ take apart fully to check for dammage and where is there a diagram for that in the books lol stupid mazda! anyways..
I know my pump is bad cause I was getting no movement out of it with full voltage. I rebuilt it and ran it in my sink lol and it turns on now but I plan on getting a new one cause the flow is to weak only 20 psi on my gauge. but my prob is the book sais it should fire the relay to activate but it wont unless I ground it my self while in run position like you say cause I tried it before reading this. I knew I wasnt stupid!
Does the computer make the ground complete?
I have continuity from the relay plug (going to pcm) to ground but not enough to make the buzzer sound it just shows random numbers like barely any ground i guess. Its like the computer is holding ground open a bit untill it decides to provide full ground?
Its funny tho when I turn the key from start to run after attempting start it will turn the fuel pump on for a few seconds then off lol.
Again thanx for any help my gf is pissed and probably thinks im an idiot mainly cause I talk of opening a shop lol I just told her I dont have the books and mazda shops wont talk to me cause they want me to bring in the car! Thanx for you help!.... Robert
Fast forward to last week, and while driving my car on the highway it started to sputter, and I lost all acceleration. The engine sounded as if it was struggling to keep up ( Going 65-70 mph). I pulled over to the side of the road, turned the car off and on a couple times, and it started working again. This has happened 3 or four times in the past week. Today, I checked and replaced the air filter (Dirtier than it should have been) and checked the MAF sensor (clean). I tuned the ignition and it ran fine, then started to sputter again. I gunned the engine and it once again fixed the problem. I've noticed a drop in MPG as well since this has started happening.
It's getting worse by the day.
Would anyone know what is causing this? I been researching the problem, but it seems no one has a definitive answer as to if this is caused by the EGR valve, catalytic converter, etc.
Thanks for the help,
-A
I was recently in a fender bender. The day after the body work done, it died on me. Took it in for a servicing- had an oil change. It makes a loud knocking or pinging noise when accelerating or have foot on gas.
The garage said they don't know what the actual problem is- tried a few things but Bottom line - need to replace the engine. New engine is $4000.
Is this normal? Could the accident have cause this serious problem?
Are there any other symptoms? For example, does it feel like the engine is going to stall? Does the tachometer dip or surge when the problem occurs?
The garage said they don't know what the actual problem is- tried a few things but Bottom line - need to replace the engine. New engine is $4000.
Before proceeding with such an expensive repair, I would go for a second opinion from another garage. Why not get a full diagnostic done to get an overall assessment of your car before investing any more money in the car? Make sure to provide as much information to enable the garage to diagnose the problem properly.
I was recently in a fender bender. ... New engine is $4000. Is this normal? Could the accident have cause this serious problem?
If it's a fender bender, then the accident does not sound serious enough to require a new engine. 165,000 km is an older engine but if it has been properly maintained it should not require replacement as part of normal wear and tear.
I took the Protege into a mechanic after checking the MAF and EGR. Both were in good shape. Plugs, wires, and coils were changed, as well as a gasket to the exhaust. Now the car runs great, except for lurching from a standstill. This doesn't happen every time though. Anyone know what would cause this? It doesn't feel like a power issue.
Thanks
I'd have a diagnostic done.
My car was running fine until this past Sunday. Than i got o/d off light on and it goes on and off.
At first the car will go in "limp mode" once in a while. But some time it will work just fine. So when it's in a limp mode it will not go over 35 MPH and stays in 1st and 2nd gear, it would not go to 3rd or 4th. The problem got worst in next 2 days and than we took it to the dealership.
They are telling me that i need to replace TPS, transmission and air valve.
for some reason i don't believe them. Anyone has any thoughts?
I can also try TPS, coil packs & ERG valve.
how much are the coil packs? Can i get those at the local part stores?
Just to be clear, your dealer says you need to replace the transmission?
Just to be clear, your dealer says you need to replace the transmission?
Yes, Mazda Delear told me that I need to replace the transmission. But I am thinking of getting 2nd opnion and see what happens.
I will let you know.
Thank you for your help.
I took the Protege to couple of other places and after talking with them it sounds like the TPS is the first thing to try. The transmission may still be good because today the o/d off lite was gone for a while while (~5 Mines) i was driving and the car was running smooth
But i will have them replace TPS and let you all know if that fixes the issue. If it dose than "Shame on Mazda Dealer"
I will keep everyone posted.
Here is the history. I got check engine and o/d off light. When I get the o/d off than the car would not shift to 3rd gear but when that light goes off than car does go into 3rd & 4th gear. I took the car to mazda dealer. After doing detailed troubleshooting they told me that I will have to replace three things (1) TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) (2) Transmission (2) Air Valve. The cose would be $4500 (if i get new Trnas) $3000 (if i get old Trnas). Well the value of my car is <$4500 so i wasn't going to pay $4500.
I took the car to other places (non-Mazda dealer) for 2nd opinion. they told me it could be TPS and may be something else. First I had them replace TPS, that didn't fix the issue But after checking circuits they found the issue with the circuit. and the problem was fixed. The whole thing cost me ~$600.
I will never buy another Mazda again in my life and I would not recommend it to anyone.
Curious ...
Did you buy the car new or used? If used, do you know how it was maintained prior to your procurement?
How many miles do you have on the car? All cars (and most of us humans) have problems as they age. Having to spend $600 on a repair for an old car is not unusual. And, a nine year old car with transmission problems should not be a shock. But that's not your case, because your nine year old's transmission seems fine.
"o/d off" is a light next the check engine. Which means over drive is off. I have automatic gear so when this light is on my over drive (3rd and 4the gear) are off and car will never go to 3rd or 4th gear. Means i can't drive more than 40 MPH.
First let me ask you this, Can you some time drive into 3rd or 4th gear without a problem? If yes that i don't think its a transmission issue.
Also, As you can see i was given 3 codes when they checked my car. That was all because of bad circuit. That may be the case for you.
I would say take to the places that do free codes on your car. Make sure you get more than one opinion as I found out, the first guy may not always be correct.
Honestly I think your issue is probably electrical just like mine. I was able to find a decent place who checked everything out for < $200. Unfortunately these problems are not slam dunk. Good Luck and let us all know how it goes.
Sorry I should have been more clear on why i am not happy with Mazda.
We purchased this car new back in 2000. My comment wasn't just based what just happened but series of issue and lack of Mazda's support.
The first issue with Mazda i had was their shifting is always a problematic. Even when the car was new (4 months old) I had issue where if slow down from 45 down to 40 than it will unnecessary go back to 3rd gear from 4th. This means I could never go to 40 MPH because it will go back and fourth between 3rd and 4th. This really really sucks. In my area there are lot of roads that has 40 MPH speed limit, now i am stuck with going either below 40 OR over 40. What do i tell Police when i get pulled over? LOL
I took the car to two different Mazda dealers and as expected they were no help. Instead they told me it has Ford's transmission so those issues are expected. What the hack... One dealer goes on to say, all Mazda have this issue and there is nothing they can do. WoW... great..
Also, When my car was newer (<1 year old) I had the same issue couple of times where "o/d off" They looked at the car and found nothing.
Bad Customer Service and So So product aren't going to win customers.
It sounds like electrical problem. But have them check the codes and go from there.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
after i had a taken the car to the dealer,done a tune up,coil,distributor,one fuel injector replaced,and clean the rest, the computer changed at no charge,still i come home and the car have the same symptoms,runs a bit better, i had an engine light come on,it is the egr valve,i took it out cleaned took gunk out,replace the hose and the gasket check, also replace oil, filter, transmission fluid, and pcv valve,while i was at it.the first test was i put back the platinum plugs,when i turn the engine on the lengine light went off.i test and drives almost the same but as before but stalling and esitating,i put back the nkg regular plugs and it runs better no stalling or choking,do you think the egr valve is bad or it could be someting else, also today i unplug the egr valve it runs better but the symptoms are still there,when i take off still as poor accelleration and it feels like is rolling,also stalls if i stay in gear when stop, it only gets worse when i put the platinum plugs brand new, but sometimes the car is running and it does a stall, almost fells like a small cough. i am thinking is a fuel related problem,i had a nightmare with the mazda dealer they charge me about 800$ and the problem it is still there ,aprreciate your proffessional opinion,any help is appreciated.thanks jack
BTW, in no way am I a 'professional' so plz take my input with a grain of salt...
Check for vacuum leaks. The accordion-like hose between the air cleaner and the intake manifold often develops cracks. Usually these cause more idle problems than anything else, but check it out.
Make sure the vacuum port leading to the EGR chamber is not plugged.
yes i forgot to mention i did have the fuel filter replaced at the same time i did take in.Today like i said i disconnect the eletronic control egr valve and it seems that it had some more power but as soon i take over 65 when i slow down and stop restart action,
it stars again like it trottles almost like is rolling in the back ,and hesitates just like cough, i will check the air filter connector to the manifold to see if has any cracks .
appreciated any of your sggestions thanks.
This the hose you need to look at...
this morning i have disconnect the negative cable from the battery, taken off ;the air filter ,hose, air filter canister complete from the engine mounts,i cleaned and i inspected,i found that the big downtube that goes from the air to the manifold just like the one you show me in the pic. Hose is in great shape,but the smaller rubber hose that goes from the tube to the engine on top the plugs, was crack,i went to buy a $1.50 hose and i replaced,i also bought from the ace store a big toilet rubber gasket $ 2.75 so i put it around the canister that holds the air filter canister,and now it does not move or unwanted air goes in ,i also tightned the bolts,so now is very firm,i took the egr valve out one more time, cleaned soaked in carb cleaner for hal hour,not the top part, again,inspected and also check all the rubber hose the spring and the wires,i start the car first time on the engine light is gone,i drove and the problem for now it seems to be gone,if when i will drive for a while on the highway will do it again,then i will go to the next step and check the fuel pump,for now i want thank you for your suggestion and it did help, i should have done it before i took it to the dealer and this car as always run really good and for 11 years i never had any major issue at all,it as always been take care ,but i understande that cannot last forever,i will keeep you posted to see if start doing it againg,thanks
giacomo
dilemma still there but i am closing in,i am determined to learn more as i go until it is resolve.
is possible that the alternator is causing the gasping,and drain my battery before?and mabye it was nothing wrong with the egr r valve in the first place. I will have the alternator tested altough the car never as a problem when i ride on highways.
when you take out the egr valve,in the engine there are two holes top and botton,i remember cleaning the top hole,but the botton hole is close and it seems to me that is from the manufacter like that,now i do not know that if it is suppose be that way,top hole is clean and get trough,bottom hole is closed like it is metal,is this normal?
after the egr valve as been replaced the code went away ,but another code come back like i explained before,the problem still there it as a poor idle when stop and when take off it almost seems like it is running out of breath.
i appreciated any of your imput/suggestions. thanks for the help