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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    I can't really say. My front alignment went crazy on me and slowly ate the tires through tire rotations. They are at 5% tread now. I put them on at 18,000 miles and I now have 47,500 miles. That's 30,000 miles with alignment problems. How long would they have lasted without the alignment problems? I don't know, but I wouldn't have been surprised to get 45,000 - 50,000 miles out of them. I liked them. They were quieter than the Poortenza's and had better wet and dry grip. And, they were certainly cheaper.

    My only beefs with them is that they were extremely sensitive to tire pressure. They should be kept at 35psi, but the evil dealer kept resetting them to 32psi. That 3psi was the difference between 30mpg and 25mpg on the freeway. The other beef is that they are a bit "talkative." They squeal easily as the tread blocks shift and they do "talk" on painted surfaces such as painted lines. Overall, I would buy them again in a heartbeat!!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    I'll add them to my maybe list!
    :-)

    Thank You,
    Larry
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    larry read this:

    Nitto NT-450
    Model Info: 1997 Mercedes C36 AMG
    Price Paid: 130
    Strengths: looks
    price is ok
    fine for normal driving
    treadwear appears to be great
    Weaknesses: not good at high performance driving, squeal like a mofo

    Review Summary: Tire looks great, and in general I have heard great things about Nitto tires. I have Nitto NT-450s 225/17/7.5 in the front and Toyo 245/17/8.5 in the rear. I must say the first week of driving with these tires, I am dissapointed. Any hard cornering produces embarrasing squeal. Grip is fair, not as good as the "extreme" moniker suggests. I guess this tires is rated Z for the speed, but as far as performance, I don't think it is a good performance tire. My friend has Yokohama Avids, and they seem to stick way better and are much quiter! The 450s are loud as well. I haven't tried them in the wet yet, from what I read in the reviews so far, i'm kinda scared frankly.
    ....by christian from Santa Clara, CA, USA
  • black01coupev6black01coupev6 Member Posts: 195
    I had Nitto NT450's 215/45/17 on my Accord. They were OK but they were loud. The tires had a total of about 15,000 miles on them and they appear to have about another 10-15,000 miles left before they need replacing. Overall it was a decent tire but a bit noisy.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    Well, my only comparison for the Nitto's were the stock Potenza's. The Potenza's were bald in 18,000 miles and hydroplaned like crazy in the rain. Plus, you couldn't hear anything but the road. The Nitto's squeal easily but never seem to let go of the road. I can't say that about the Bridgestone's... they rarely squealed, but when they did it meant no more traction. The Nitto's are much quieter and have better wet traction. I'm not sure if I can say they have better dry traction since I went from the stock 195 to 205. More tire means more traction.

    I read the reviews on the Nitto's from The TireRack. They didn't have the highest scores, but they were pretty close to tires costing over twice as much. If you really want great tires get the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 or 8000, or Pirelli P7000's. However, there is a significant price increase from the Nitto's. There are a lot of great tires now available in the 195/55R15 size which were not available when I bought the Nitto's.

    As for the Nitto review from the Mercedes owner... I don't know how much merit I can give that. AMG equips their cars from the factory with some of the best (and most expensive) tires on the market. Of course the Nitto's would be disappointing for him. Plus, why does he have two brands of tires on her car? If he can afford an AMG, I'm sure he can afford the tires for that car. Toyo and Nitto are really more "bargain" brands than anything else.

    Here are some reviews from Taurus SHO drivers. Like I said, not the greatest tires in the world, but for the price you can't beat them. Plus, if it rains a lot in your area and there is some light snow, the Nitto's are terrific. BTW, I would love to own a Taurus SHO. Talk about terrific power and handling. WOW!!

    "I have the Nitto NT450s (siped) on my '96 and love them. They are better than I expected in the snow and ice, which is a good thing. On dry pavement they are excellent. When it's wet and rainy, they are easy to spin from a stop but a good grip on the road once you get moving.

    I am sure there are better tires out there on the market, but I these are my #1 pick in their price range and category." Mike C.

    "I had a set of Nitto NT450 Extreme Performance 225/50VR16 91V on my '97 and currently have them on my '93 SHO.

    They are a very good rain tire, good in snow, a bit noisy though. As far as cornering goes though, you can get the car to slide but it will start slowly and let you know whets going on.

    For the money a very good 4 season tire for those of us in the snow belt. It is not as good as a true winter tire in snow, nor as good as a summer tire in the corners." - Paul Nimz

    "I've got some Nitto 450 Extreme Performance 225/50 VR16 mounted on the front of my '97. I bought them as to see how a 50 series tire affect the acceleration in which they exceeded my expectations. They are very similar to the Firestone Firehawk SZ50s as far as tread pattern goes. They are a directional tire and like the SZ50s are outstanding in the rain. The main reason I bought them is the price of ~$90.00. Over all they are better than the OEM Goodyears in all respects but not as good as the SZ 50s in traction on dry surfaces. Not unreasonably noisy and look nice. For the money I would buy them again." - ???
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    There's another example (post 502) of unbiased praise for the Yoko Avids! I've been researching these tires and I've decided they're my replacements for the Potenzas. Much longer tread life, much quieter, and all-season rated but still retaining performance attributes. And only $60 a pop at Tire Rack. Go to Tire Rack and read the reviews, then check out the 420 treadwear!

    Meade
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    With all of the talk about the Avid's and my need for new tires, I took a long, close look at the Avid's for the past hour and a half. I have come to the conclusion that this is not the tire for me. It sounds like a wonderful tire that will give you a comfortable ride with very little noise and good wet and dry handling. However, I corner rather aggressively (third set of tires in 47,000 miles) and the soft sidewalls that gives the comfortable ride on the Avid's would not suit me well.

    There are a few owner feedbacks on TireRack that concern me. I guess the Avid's are considered a "touring" tire with some performance ability. I looked for certain vehicles in the owner feedback, such as Protege, Integra, Civic, Probe, etc. Drivers of those vehicles commented that the tires have great handling for a touring tire, but the sidewalls roll during heavy cornering. No thank you. But, I'm sure they would be great for someone who doesn't drive like me. The only other complaint I found on the Avid's concerned treadwear from the aggressive drivers. Most of them were only getting 30k-35k miles out of the tires (which for me is terrific!).

    The Nitto's I have on the car now have easily lasted 30k miles and would have gone another 15k without the alignment issues. They trade ride comfort and noise for performance. I thought they were a perfect match for the Protege, which does the same thing: giving up ride comfort and noise for performance. What will I put on my car this time around?? I'm still looking, but the Pirelli P7000's and Dunlop SP Sport 8000's are looking pretty good.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    from an Owner in California:
    ============================
    In any regard, the Potenza RE-92's are really bad when compared to the T1-S. The Toyo T1-S beats these out in EVERY category, the RE-92's were the OEM tire on my car as well before upgrading to the T1-S. The T1-S makes rain seem like day, and the noise level is about the same. The ride is very good due to the fact that the T1-S has fairly soft sidewalls for a performance tire, but you'll love every minute with them when you compare it to the RE-92's, I garuntee it. If you have any other quesitons, let me know.

    From the Horses Mouth:
    =======================
    Because the Proxes T1-S is a summer high performance tire, we can't recommend it for any type of winter driving conditions. Because the tread pattern is made up of large solid tread block elements (which improves dry performance), it probably won't perform well in even moderate snow and ice conditions.

    With regards to the ride comfort, the cold temperature should not have any noticeable affect.

    Staff Engineer
    Technical Service Department
    Toyo Tire (U.S.A.) Corporation

    Larry....looks like the tires are not for us in PA :(
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    I still have to decide between a dedicated SNOW tire/wheel package, for snow season(Dec. thru early March)and ULTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE tires(late MARCH thru early Dec.) "OR" PERFORMANCE ALL SEASON TOURING tires, for year round use?

    -Larry
  • dhkchengdhkcheng Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I have a 2000 Mazda Protege LX that has
    developed a rather unpleasant odor/smell in
    the ventilation system. What advice can you
    offer to get rid of the odors, and to prevent
    it from developing in the future.

    Background: the odor is a sour (almost acidic)
    smell that persists when the ventilation fan
    is running (allot less noticeable when the AC
    is on). But when the car is switched off for
    a period of time (an hour or so), and then
    restarted, the first puff from the ventilation
    system is eye wateringly bad.

    Thanks in advance.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Hmm. Either mold is growing due to condensation in your HVAC system or something has crawled into your HVAC system and died there. Furry little critters like engine compartments due to the warmth. Not good for the critter or the engine (esp if they start nibbling on the rubber parts).

    I'd have your air intakes checked for any dead creatures. If there was mold, running your fan and spraying some Lysol into the air intakes (not the one that feeds your engine!) will take care of most of the odor.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I love my Protege so much I hate it!

    :)

    Meade
  • r_scott_gr_scott_g Member Posts: 16
    Last November, I installed Nokian Q's(on a second set of rims) on my 2000 Protege. I think switching to winter tires was worth it.

    For the two winters previous, I had an all-wheel drive vehicle with ABS, so I was a little spoiled. I thought it would be a pain not having my all-wheel drive vehicle, but I really didn't miss it.

    I don't have ABS on my Protege, and I think the tires really helped. Whenever I had to stop suddenly, the back-end stayed where it belonged. The stops were always straight and true. Whether I was stopping or going around a curve, the back-end of the car was very predictable. Acceleration was pretty good, not like studded tires, but still quite decent.

    The tires were also amazing in deep snow. A Protege doesn't really have much ground clearance, but I never got stuck once.
  • tomny67tomny67 Member Posts: 1
    I've managed to put 20,000 trouble-free miles on my 2000 ES in just one year. It's truly the best car I've ever owned. Yes, the 5-speed can clunk, but if you adjust your driving style, it all but disappears. Now for my issue... I've read a few posts that reference tire noise from the Bridgestone Potenzas. While the tires have handled well, even through an Upstate NY winter, they keep getting louder and louder. Unbearably loud. Annoyingly loud. Tear-your-hair-out loud. Is this a problem for everyone?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    The answer for me is a definite YES. I just had the tires on my 2000 ES rotated yesterday. I have 24,500 miles on them and I have rotated them religiously. Even after rotation they sound terrible.

    If you've been reading the Mazda Protege topic for the last little while, I'm the guy who totaled his 1992 Protege with the exact same tires -- Bridgestone Poortenzas -- at 28,000 miles. With this Protege at 24,500, my Bridgestones are going bald again -- and one is even showing its treadwear indicators. In the next month or so I'm going to order a set of Yokohama AVID T4s from Tire Rack. Others here are looking for high-performance tires; the Yokos are all-season touring tires and "only" T-speed rated. But that's OK, geesh -- I don't plan on going over 100 or so anyway!!! Performance tires are usually loudest anyway. I'm really interested in the Yokos because they're supposed to be QUIET tires that have excellent wet-weather traction. I remember slamming into the back of that Volvo at 45 mph only too well.

    You've probably noticed that you don't get any grip at all when you take off from a stoplight on wet pavement -- especially if you happen to have a 5-speed like me. I can even spin 'em going from 2nd to 3rd if I try. Just do yourself a favor and don't make any sudden maneuvers in wet weather now -- you'll learn all about air bags and crumple zones. Replace those tires -- that's a personal suggestion!

    Meade
    2000 ES 5-speed
  • tomcivilettitomciviletti Member Posts: 207
    Yep, the RE92's are loud and they don't last very long. Otherwise, I've found them pretty good tires. I'm at 19k and deciding whether to use them for another rainy Oregon winter. tirerack is a good place for info. I'm considering the Kumho ecsta supra 712, dunlop sp sport9000, and bridgestone re730 [the 205/55-15 is almost the same size as the 195 re92's.]
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    by r_scott_g
    "I don't have ABS on my Protege, and I think the tires really helped. Whenever I had to stop suddenly, the back-end stayed where it belonged. The stops were always straight and true."

    That is because of the dynamics of the protege. it is designed to have all the load on it's front wheels so the backend really doesn't really carry the weight to swing it around.
  • r_scott_gr_scott_g Member Posts: 16
    On ice and snow, my Protege can still lose the back end without good tires. The front end has most of the traction and weight, therefore not leaving much control or traction at the back end. And this includes stopping.

    It's like when people made the mistake of putting studded tires on the only the front of their front wheel drive car. The back end would come looose in icy conditions and throw the entire car out of control. In fact, some tire stores in Washington, Oregon, will not sell you one pair of winter tires for your front wheel drive car. It is considered too dangerous, and they don't want to end up sued.

    A taxi cab company in my city decided to save money and only put studded winter tires on the front of their front-drive cars. They were warned not to, and soon found out why. They came back for the second set of tires.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    tru r scott g, winter is a different story altogether.
  • r_scott_gr_scott_g Member Posts: 16
    Chikoo, just so you know, I agree with what you said
    about the Protege's design. Even though I have the most
    basic Protege, it does seem to be a very well balanced car.
    Now if I just had a 2001, 2.0, with 5 speed - I could really
    have some fun.
  • rancorrancor Member Posts: 2
    I live in the Chicago area, which is privvy to humid summer nights. My 01 LX 2.0's windshield inside fogs up very easily. I had an 00 LX that did this as well, but not nearly as bad. Basically the fogging is water (i assume) condensing on the inside of windshield. The only solution I can find is using the heater set on the windshield defroster and a pretty high fan setting (at least 3). When I do this the fogging goes away but it makes for a pretty uncomfortable ride. I've tried a few glass cleaning products but these really didn't help. Anyone else experience this? I'm open to any suggestions. TIA
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    Usually, on a new car, the oils in the dashboard start too evaporate a bit for the first few months and this builds up on the inside of the windshield. Only a good ammonia based window cleaner will get it off, and this really helps with the fogging. Also, ensure that your air conditioner activates when you swtich to defrost. The air conditioner will dehumidify the incoming air to help get rid of the built-up moisture. Another thing is ensure the ventilation is set up to draw in fresh air and not set to recirculate.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Yeah I've noticed a film of sorts on the inside of my windshield. I took a microfiber cloth and rubbed (fairly hard!) and it came off ok. I noticed quite a difference.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    I usually keep one in the car to remove this foggy layer of organic compounds from the windshield and rear window (it accumulates much more slowly on the side windows). Takes some pressure, but I find I don't usually have to use glass cleaner.

    Oh yeah, don't use fabric conditioner when washing your towels. They usually deposit fats to make them feel softer and combat static cling. These will fog up your windows.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    You mentioned about the A/C activating when in defrost mode. I suspect this is the case since I noticed a slight rpm increase when in the defrost mode, but there is no other indication that shows this is the case. The owners manual doesn't say the A/c comes on in defrost and the A/C light does not come on. I have a 2k EX which I presume would be the same as 2k1. If this is the case then this setup will not allow you to deactivate the A/C when in defrost. This I don't like. Sometimes, unconditioned air is sufficient for defrosting and I don't want to run my A/C unnecessarily.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    While we're on the topic of defrosters, when I press in the button for the rear defroster, it makes a strange click sound. The defroster works, but I was curious if the sound was "normal" or not.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Mine clicks too -- the sound of the defroster relay activating. It clicks again when you turn it off. Sigh, another thing I miss about my '92 ... its rear defroster automatically turned off after 10 minutes or so. The new ones will stay on for as long as the car's running!

    Meade
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    The defroster even stays on if you turn off the car and turn it back on. Wish it was timed like my Pontiac's was.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    By strange I meant I thought that it might not supossed to click. When I press in the A/C there is no click, so I thought possibly that the rear defroster click may be something wrong. Don't think it's a problem though. Just wanted to see what your guys' experiences were. Thanks.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    It's the defroster relay. It's normal. Don't worry about it.

    Meade
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    Unfortunately, the 2000 and newer models automatically engage the AC whenever defrost mode is selected. On the 2001 and newer, it also automatically disengages recirc and switches to fresh air. It is a convenience rather than having to press all of the buttons and slide the switches, but I do prefer having control over what's happening.
  • dbroccardodbroccardo Member Posts: 12
    My 2001 Pro manual states that the AC kicks on when the selector is set to "floor". I like to run ambient air through there to keep the air fresh, but now the darn AC is running, sapping the engine power.

    I wonder if there is a way to disable the automatic selection of AC when in defrost, mix, or floor mode?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    They seem to like doing the thinking for the driver where the HVAC's concerned.

    I also prefer the old manual controls where I can set the fresh/recirc, AC/no AC controls myself, even if it means handling multiple controls.
  • r_scott_gr_scott_g Member Posts: 16
    I was quite shocked that the defroster on my 2000 protege doesn't shut off on it's own. I think my 72 Datsun 510 shut off on it's own, but I could be wrong about that.

    Also, because the A/C and defroster buttons look the same, I sometimes turn on the defroster instead of the A/C and wonder why it's not getting cooler.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    My manual says to turn on the A/C if dehumified heating is desired(mode selector is set to the defrost mode), but I'm sure the A/C is already running. The second fan is running when in defrost so I assume the A/C compressor is too. Is this right? When the split mode(defroster and floor) is used, that second fan does not come on.
  • m78marym78mary Member Posts: 3
    I have a Mazda Protege 2000. It has approximatley 20,000. On 3 occasions the engine will jerk/hesitate. I took it to the dealer, but it did not do it when they were driving. Can anyone give me some suggestion?

    Thanks
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    When did/does the jerking occur? Might also help if you can tell us what engine, trim level, etc.
    Automatic/manual...etc.
  • m78marym78mary Member Posts: 3
    I have an automatic transmission. I'd didn't look at the RPMs. The last time the car jerked I was going slow in traffic on the interstate. I'm not sure what type engine.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    If you go to the "sedans" forum in the Mazda Protege Owners club, and scroll way back, there was some discussion on engine jerking. Mine jerks (haven't had it happen in a while now) when I'm at low rpms and making a turn and going over a speed bump. I drive a manual so I just push the clutch in. Guess you don't have that luxury!I believe Chikoo said something about the engine "rebounding" or something like that. Can't remember exactly though. Sorry can't help anymore than that. There are others here MUCH more knowledgeable than I though...(that's your que guys...)

    PF
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    you are dead right protege_fan.
    The engine gathers a lot of torque during the lower rpm and when it shifts gear while your are under 20mph (or so), you can feel the engine bieng relieved of the torque...courtesy of the soft rubber engine mounts....which actually make the engine vibrationless at higher RPMs.
    well i guess you can't have everything ;(
  • m78marym78mary Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your help. It jerks pretty hard. I am going on vacation and didn't want to have car trouble while I'm traveling. I have a 4 cylinder. It has jerked on 3 occasions. Twice in slow moving traffic and once when I was going down a hill. I took it to the service department, but it didn't do it when they drove the car.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Of course it didn't happen when they looked at it...it's one of Murphy's Laws!!!
    It sounds like what Chikoo described. I too have felt the engine jerk, but I wouldn't worry about it, but I am by no means an expert. Just my 2 cents. :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Couldn't help myself.

    :)
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    LOL JERK.

    Don't worry about the jerk. it's not a fatal problem.
    Just learn to use the auto stick in position '2' when stuck in slow moving traffic. NO more JERKS :)
  • curt3curt3 Member Posts: 101
    Hey Kids!

    I have a 2000 Protege LX with A/C and 5-speed manual transmission. I am approaching 50,000 miles and have enjoyed this car like no other. My problem is that I am experiencing what I can only think to call a "ping". I experience the ping on acceleration and while going up a hill. As you can tell by my high mileage, I drive a lot so I use all brands of gas and have experimented with 87-91 ocatne fuel. As you may have guessed, it is at its worst with 87 octane.

    The dealership mechanic cannot hear it but since I spend 15 hours a week driving, I hear it constantly. The dealerhship hooked up their computer and found nothing. I can best desribe the sound as raindrops falling on the tin roof of a mobile home. It increased with engine r.p.m. and is actually quite loud inside the car at times. Any suggestions?
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    For now, put higher octane gas in it to minimize the pinging. I would definitely talk to the service manager and if he doesn't do anything, talk to the dealership's general manager. If they are a good dealership, they will go with you for a long test drive to experience the pinging. If they "can't" find anything wrong, take it to a different dealership. If no one can find anything wrong with it and you are convinced there is a problem, call Mazda and complain. I mean REALLY complain. They will send out a Mazda corporate service representative out to your dealership to look at your car. Pinging is predetonation of the fuel before the piston has reached top dead center of its stroke. This will eventually severely damage your engine!!

    Keep us posted with your problem. This is a problem that should be taken care of as soon as possible. Keep posting here, or in the Protege sedans board. I am very interested in this problem. Or, if you don't post on Edmunds, send me an email at jstand6@yahoo.com or jstand60@spawar.navy.mil or standeferj@saic.com and I will definitely keep in touch and help you through this.

    -Jerry
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    spell out your problems to MNAO as courteously and clearly as possible. I am sure they will take notice.
    but why don't you try an engine flush....to take out any carbon deposits on the piston and cylinder heads....that can cause improper combustion and pinging(i guess).
  • m1rhodesm1rhodes Member Posts: 4
    I'm in the process of rebuilding a Protege (it was a dealer hit and a good buy).
    The problem I'm having right now is that the car is spewing fuel straight out of the exhaust pipe, and alot of it.
    The car runs fine. I just put in a new fuel pump, so my next thought is that the pressure regulator is shot.
    Any help will be appreciated.
    Also, if anyone knows where I can find a factory service manual (other than the dealer) that would help too
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    check out your EGR system:

    "Too little flow will increase NOx and cause engine ping."
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