Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I'll guess that you have a cracked cylinder head across an exhaust valve seat (and probably a ruined catalytic converter, too).
That sounds a little drastic, but I'll check it out anyway.
I was thinking more along the lines of the injection system just putting out way too much fuel and the raw gas feeding through the exhaust valves and out the back. I have not yet pulled the injector rail to see if one or more of the injectors are frozen open.
Considering that the car has been sitting for a few years, I'm sure I'll encounter many more "little" things that need to be fixed )
And you're right about the catalytic, the fuel dump will ruin it, but I'm still working on the front end and working my way back.
BTW, it's a 1.5 liter engine with 2k miles on it. That's why I'm also looking for the factory manual; the Haynes book helps, but it's not that great
I'm also thinking that maybe the fuel return line fron the injector rail could have a blockage it it, not allowing any excess fuel to return to the tank
Another thing I noticed was that each time I start the car an let it run for a while, it seems to lessen the amount of spray coming out when I accelerate
A friend of mine suggested that since the car sat for so long outside in the sun, that the pressure could have built up in the tank and forced fuel through the system and it has just been sitting in the exhaust pipe, mixing with water, and is only now coming out since I began running the car.
Like I said, the car runs beautifully, not a hesitation anytime.
Now all I got to do is put the front end on and the car will be ready to roll )
Fan postion:1,2,3,4
Temp: hot, warm, normal, cool, cold coldest?
And a little tip for all, maintenance schedule indicates having the refrigerant "inspected" every 12mos/12k miles. Some documentation may be needed to make a warranty claim for A/C problems. Very curious maintenance item, IMO.
Could this be the problem. I believe some "Experienced techie" once said that if you are going to put the A/C on max setting, make sure that fan speed is 2 or more....else you will have the A/c line frozen stiff.
Recently I have noticed water collecting UNDER the carpet, padding, and floor mat on the passenger's side of my Protege. This happens rain or shine. Today I parked my car on a slight incline (nose up) and watched as the A/C drain pipe dumped water on the inside and outside of the car. The drain pipe is allowing quite a bit of water to go into the engine compartment (as normally it should) but every bit as much goes under the carpet. This is a very recent problem since I vacuum at least twice a month and just noticed the problem within the last month. I can see no crack in the plastic tubing but I must say that there is a considerable amount of water on the floor of my Protege regradless.
I am taking it in tomorrow to the dealer before the warranty expires. I do not have much confidence in the service department based on previous experience so I was hoping that someone else out there knows a possible solution. By the way, I live in south Alabama and run the air constantly. Thanks.
Meade in Virginia
I wrote several days back about my engine pinging on all 87-91 octane gas brands that I have tried in the last few months. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times to search for a cause knowing full well that Mazda designed this car to run on 87 octane. I had no results at the dealership but I did add an octane booster to the 87 octane fuel and have heard nothing since. The engine is running like a top. I do not like the idea of adding a four dollar treatment each time I fill up but the pinging has left and the car is peppy. Are most of you fellow Protege owners burning 87 ocatane?
you have a timing problem.
the gas is exploding before it should.
addding the octane booster only delays the combustion which stops the pinging....but that would be temporary.
I will change the plugs this weekend.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Timing, temperature and compression are finely tuned in today's computerized engines. There's a reason certain plugs, filters and other components came with your car.
So many Mazda and Ford pickup owners have had numerous problems after installing non-spec K&N filters, "split-fire" plugs and aftermarket MAF sensors, and tampered with their exhaust dynamics in a supposed attempt to "boost performance." (Reference: "4-banger" board at www.fordranger.com) I say, if these people wanted higher performance in the first place, they should have chosen another vehicle.
Were those platinum plugs specified in your owner's manual as direct replacements?
I don't plan on changing any specs when I replace plugs, filters, or anything else on my 2000 Protege.
Just my opinion -- but I think it's an informed one!
Meade
Stick with what works unless you know your stuff. Most of us, myself included, are not qualified to re-engineer our cars and if you think Bosch has really taken the time to do it, think again.
that's my $0.04
DO NOT CHANGE THE OEM PARTS unless YOU HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT IT IS GOING TO EFFECT.
as mentioned, Spark plugs and air filters are the most common examples.
my $1.00
I'm not bothering with fancy spark plugs. Pretty much anything beyond the basic is all fluff.
Now, you can get sub-par air filters though. One I got didn't even fit (gasket barely compressed). Tossed it out. Oh well.
DON'T F--- UP YOUR CAR WITH NON-SPEC STUFF!!!
There. I feel much better now.
(Oh, and the missing word up there is "FOUL." What were YOU thinking?)
Meade
mdaffron@the-rma.org
It's two weeks from tomorrow -- Saturday, October 6 -- in a northern Va. park. Hope you can make it!
Meade
I remember when I had my RX-7 and the Bosch Platinum +4's just came out. The parts guy at Pep Boys kept trying to sell me them because "their four-electrode design will be much better than the 20 year-old design on the NGK plugs I wanted." Of course, what he didn't realize was that the rotary engines have always used four-electrode spark plug designs. But, then again, he kept talking about how much better the plugs would be for clearing carbon deposits out of the cylinders and piston heads. Rotary engines don't have cylinders or pistons...
Thanks
You are correct about removal/installation: two bolts, replace the gasket ring, pop on the hanger and you are in business.
waiting for eeterp to beat me up on this one...lol