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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    m1rhodes---BE CAREFUL!!! This condition is VERY dangerous!

    I'll guess that you have a cracked cylinder head across an exhaust valve seat (and probably a ruined catalytic converter, too).
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You are sure that it is fuel right?
  • m1rhodesm1rhodes Member Posts: 4
    OUCH!
    That sounds a little drastic, but I'll check it out anyway.
    I was thinking more along the lines of the injection system just putting out way too much fuel and the raw gas feeding through the exhaust valves and out the back. I have not yet pulled the injector rail to see if one or more of the injectors are frozen open.
    Considering that the car has been sitting for a few years, I'm sure I'll encounter many more "little" things that need to be fixed :o)
    And you're right about the catalytic, the fuel dump will ruin it, but I'm still working on the front end and working my way back.
    BTW, it's a 1.5 liter engine with 2k miles on it. That's why I'm also looking for the factory manual; the Haynes book helps, but it's not that great
  • m1rhodesm1rhodes Member Posts: 4
    Yeah, I'm positive it's fuel, not only because of the usual smell but also because the change registered on the gas gauge.
    I'm also thinking that maybe the fuel return line fron the injector rail could have a blockage it it, not allowing any excess fuel to return to the tank
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm just trying to imagine a condition where so much raw fuel could get past a fully functioning exhaust valve and fully compressed cylinder. Live and learn, I guess, but I was presuming the cylinder would have to be dead to allow this to happen...i.e., raw fuel not being burned at all, and the piston shoving it out of the exhaust valve or through a crack in the head to the exhaust manifold.
  • m1rhodesm1rhodes Member Posts: 4
    that could be true too.
    Another thing I noticed was that each time I start the car an let it run for a while, it seems to lessen the amount of spray coming out when I accelerate
    A friend of mine suggested that since the car sat for so long outside in the sun, that the pressure could have built up in the tank and forced fuel through the system and it has just been sitting in the exhaust pipe, mixing with water, and is only now coming out since I began running the car.
    Like I said, the car runs beautifully, not a hesitation anytime.
    Now all I got to do is put the front end on and the car will be ready to roll :o)
  • kortenkakortenka Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2 week old Pro5 (automatic) with about 1500 miles. Over the Labor day weekend we took a 8 hour trip to Knoxville and experienced A/C trouble. Basically the A/C shut down after an hour or so, with the temperature of the air blowing out getting steadily warmer and the force of the blowing air weakening. Eventually no air was blowing at all even on the number 4 blower setting. I know from experience with my Ford Ranger truck that this is a symptom of the A/C evaporator core freezing. In the Ranger I bypassed a faulty pressure cycling switch and have to manually kill the A/C and wait a few minutes (at highway speed) for the core to thaw and the air to start blowing cold again. The last thing I expected was to have to do this in a new car. Have any of you out there taken an extended trip with the A/C on, say for a couple hours or so?
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    Bring it in for troubleshooting.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    I have had the exact same thing happen to my car while on a long road trip. The dealer couldn't duplicate the problem, so they didn't fix anything. No wonder they couldn't duplicate it, you have to have the AC on for hours in order for the thing to freeze up. Keep me posted on what happens at the dealer.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    the A/c on my '99 PRO blows COLD as ICE on the freeway. Actually have to shut it down on long trips......sad to know that you got a problem....anyway that is what the warranty is for.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    No, the sad thing is that if they can't duplicate it, they won't fix it. I don't want the Mazda techs to have to take my car on a road trip in order for them to get the compressor to freeze up.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    what was your setting for the A/c on the long trip:

    Fan postion:1,2,3,4
    Temp: hot, warm, normal, cool, cold coldest?
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    It was on 1, set on coldest, recirculate. I did this all the time on my integra, never had a problem.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    The usual reason for the A/C to freeze up is being low on refrigerant. This can easily be determined by a pressure test. Have them do this. They don't need to to a road trip to find the problem. Assuming they're competent techs, that is.
    And a little tip for all, maintenance schedule indicates having the refrigerant "inspected" every 12mos/12k miles. Some documentation may be needed to make a warranty claim for A/C problems. Very curious maintenance item, IMO.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    >>>> It was on 1, set on coldest, recirculate. I did this all the time on my integra, never had a problem. <<<<<

    Could this be the problem. I believe some "Experienced techie" once said that if you are going to put the A/C on max setting, make sure that fan speed is 2 or more....else you will have the A/c line frozen stiff.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    At this setting, it could also be the excessive condensation along the lines that caused your problem. I always set mine to atleast speed 2, and if it gets too cold, turn the AC off for a while while leaving the fan on; rinse, repeat.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I never had problems in either my 1999 DX or my 2001 ES as of yet with the AC. Of course, the longest trip in either car has been under 200 miles with the AC going. I did, however, notice condensation building up on the dash above the vents in the center once. The 1996 Cavalier I had before the 1999 Protege used to leak water out of the vents sometimes when the AC got too cold. But I never have had problems with the Protege's AC.
  • mbucarombucaro Member Posts: 1
    Hello! First time user here! I have a '99 Protege and only have about 22,000 miles on it. Around 18-20,000 miles, it has started to make a knocking noise when I come to a stop. I took it in and they were able to duplicate the noise and pinpoint it to the right front wheel barring (sp?). The servicepeople said the mechanic tightened the wheel barring. The noise stopped for about 1,000 miles. It's back, and they can't seem to duplicate the noise again. I have brought it in twice but it doesn't seem to make the noises when the mechanic is in the car with me! The mechanic said he replaced the wheel barring the first time around so now I don't know what to believe. Anyone else experiencing these noises when coming to a stop? Also, they tell me not to worry...should I?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I would not worry. As long as you have the documentation of the noise, the last fix, and the complaint of the noise again, you should be okay. I will give you an example. I have a 2001 ES, and have felt some pulsation when stopping since about 9000 miles. I complained about it like 4 times, but they could never duplicate it. Now, it's getting worse. My car has 15K now and the brake warranty runs out at 12K for rotors, but I am going to get it fixed for nothing since the problem is documented.
  • curt3curt3 Member Posts: 101
    I currently own a 2000 Protege LX with A/C and 5-speed manual transmission--I am just shy of 50,000 miles.

    Recently I have noticed water collecting UNDER the carpet, padding, and floor mat on the passenger's side of my Protege. This happens rain or shine. Today I parked my car on a slight incline (nose up) and watched as the A/C drain pipe dumped water on the inside and outside of the car. The drain pipe is allowing quite a bit of water to go into the engine compartment (as normally it should) but every bit as much goes under the carpet. This is a very recent problem since I vacuum at least twice a month and just noticed the problem within the last month. I can see no crack in the plastic tubing but I must say that there is a considerable amount of water on the floor of my Protege regradless.

    I am taking it in tomorrow to the dealer before the warranty expires. I do not have much confidence in the service department based on previous experience so I was hoping that someone else out there knows a possible solution. By the way, I live in south Alabama and run the air constantly. Thanks.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I haven't seen this happen on any of the three Proteges I've owned, but I've had it happen in a Ford pickup, a Saab 900 and a Toyota Corolla. It's fairly common -- and luckily, not a big problem! The condensate drain tube has probably gotten clogged (they tend to "gum up" over time) or slightly dislodged either where it slips onto the bottom of the unit under the dash or at the firewall. I haven't looked for it on my 2000 5-speed (just like you have), but I know it can be a pain in the butt to get under the dash of these new cars, but a replacement tube is probably only a couple of bucks -- but then again, you're still under warranty. It'll probably be a simple and quick fix for your dealer.

    Meade in Virginia
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    the drain tube grommet came off. if/when it does, some comes out the hose onto the ground and some leaks back in on the carpet. The grommet may still even be there but bumped out of place. Did it happen after an oil change or other service? Either way the dealer can fix it no prob, but it's also a good time to make sure the tube isn't clogged.

    :)
  • curt3curt3 Member Posts: 101
    A few days back I ripped the carpet out of my Protege to observe the A/C drip and had a general idea where the problem was. Since it was under warranty I went ahead and took it to the dealership where they placed caulking around the grommet for the a/c overflow tube. Additionally, they recharged the a/c unit. It is my guess that a combination of insufficient refrigerant and a leaky seal resulted in a bunch of condensation ending up inside of the car. Thanks for the input everyone.
    I wrote several days back about my engine pinging on all 87-91 octane gas brands that I have tried in the last few months. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times to search for a cause knowing full well that Mazda designed this car to run on 87 octane. I had no results at the dealership but I did add an octane booster to the 87 octane fuel and have heard nothing since. The engine is running like a top. I do not like the idea of adding a four dollar treatment each time I fill up but the pinging has left and the car is peppy. Are most of you fellow Protege owners burning 87 ocatane?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    It depends on which gas station I go to, but it's usually about 87-89 (regular).
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    But I have the 1.6L that has been discontinued in 2002. Probably a different compression ratio than the 1.8L and 2.0L (9.3:1, I think...I'll have to check the manual).
  • cmm71cmm71 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Protege that is working out great. I have only one concern which is a knocking sound when I start it on colder mornings. When I get the car going and punch the gas a little it stops, and this problem does not exist at all when the engine is hot (hot weather). I am not too concerned but wondered if this is a documented problem with the new 2.0 liter engines that came out in the newly designed 01 Protege ES. Has anyone else encountered this problem?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    curt3,

    you have a timing problem.
    the gas is exploding before it should.
    addding the octane booster only delays the combustion which stops the pinging....but that would be temporary.
  • tomcivilettitomciviletti Member Posts: 207
    87 octane works great in my '99 es. I would guess you either have advanced timing, spark plugs that are too hot, or excessive combustion chamber deposits [which increase effective combustion rato.]
  • curt3curt3 Member Posts: 101
    I did replace the stock plugs at 30,000 miles with Platinum plugs--these may be the culprits. When the pinging began I did ask the dealership if the timing need to be retarded and they said no. Since the warranty is almost up and most adjustments are not covered beyond 12,000 miles, I may just have my local garage tackle the timing. Thanks again.
    I will change the plugs this weekend.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I learned an important lesson during my ownership of one troubled, piece-of-junk, Ford-built Mazda B2300 pickup from 1994 to 2000:

    "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

    Timing, temperature and compression are finely tuned in today's computerized engines. There's a reason certain plugs, filters and other components came with your car.

    So many Mazda and Ford pickup owners have had numerous problems after installing non-spec K&N filters, "split-fire" plugs and aftermarket MAF sensors, and tampered with their exhaust dynamics in a supposed attempt to "boost performance." (Reference: "4-banger" board at www.fordranger.com) I say, if these people wanted higher performance in the first place, they should have chosen another vehicle.

    Were those platinum plugs specified in your owner's manual as direct replacements?

    I don't plan on changing any specs when I replace plugs, filters, or anything else on my 2000 Protege.

    Just my opinion -- but I think it's an informed one!

    Meade
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Your $0.02 is worth a buck. Too many people try to upgrade performance of their vehicles with high performance air filters and plugs. Rarely is there any increase in performance yet drivability suffers. There is a reason that thousands of engineers are employed by auto makers and suppliers. they have to build a product that works well and stays that way. When you buy platinum plugs the increased cost of the item is nearly all marketing.

    Stick with what works unless you know your stuff. Most of us, myself included, are not qualified to re-engineer our cars and if you think Bosch has really taken the time to do it, think again.

    that's my $0.04
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    since I am an engineer and have worked with the design aspects of building up a machine.

    DO NOT CHANGE THE OEM PARTS unless YOU HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT IT IS GOING TO EFFECT.

    as mentioned, Spark plugs and air filters are the most common examples.

    my $1.00
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Dang, from $.04 all the way to $1 in about 4 hours. Don't we all wish the stock market could do that these days? :)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    I tried them in my '89 323 and it knocked like crazy. I took them out immediately and put regular cheap-o Champions (listed as OEM-spec) in their place. Runs fine now.

    I'm not bothering with fancy spark plugs. Pretty much anything beyond the basic is all fluff.

    Now, you can get sub-par air filters though. One I got didn't even fit (gasket barely compressed). Tossed it out. Oh well.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I tried to write my "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" post as diplomatically as possible, still expecting all sorts of negative replies. Now that I see everybody's on my side, I'll say what I really meant:

    DON'T F--- UP YOUR CAR WITH NON-SPEC STUFF!!!

    There. I feel much better now.

    (Oh, and the missing word up there is "FOUL." What were YOU thinking?)

    Meade
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    I was ready to put them in my '96 Contour but the service manager talked me out of it. I came to trust this guy's auto savvy implicitly. Why I was tempted is because they're basically configured like an aircraft spark plug so obviously they must be better. (In my mechanically challenged mind)
  • black01coupev6black01coupev6 Member Posts: 195
    We've used Bosch Plat +4 in all of our cars needing spark plug replacement and they have seemed to improve engine performance. They did make an improvement in my 99 Accord w/ 30k just as they did in a 93 Civic w/ 130k. SO when my Protege gets ready for new plugs, Bosch +4's it will be.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    You expressed interest in MAPP II several weeks ago, and I've been awaiting your e-mail. Are you still interested? If so, e-mail me at:

    mdaffron@the-rma.org

    It's two weeks from tomorrow -- Saturday, October 6 -- in a northern Va. park. Hope you can make it!

    Meade
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    if you really think that the bosch +4 will make a difference, change them when your oem spark plugs are still going good. That way you will find out whether they REALLY make a difference.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    I'm using NGK Platinums in the Alty.... very nice..
  • mazdadude1mazdadude1 Member Posts: 49
    In my Protege5, autoumatic, 2.0l at 1,000 miles I am getting just over 30mpg on roadtrips and just over 25mpg in town. About where the sticker said. But I rarely punch it... Wanted to wait a bit. Today, I did some punching around traffic and in curves. I love the engine. Likes it revving high. Has a cool sound to it too.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    I am running them right now in my '99 ES sedan with the 1.8L engine (which is basically the same as the 2.0L, but much more rev-happy). They seem to improve upper-end response (5,000+ rpm) which my engine visits quite frequently. Other than that, I don't notice any difference and if you don't drive in those rpm ranges, I would just recommend the NGK plugs which are much cheaper.

    I remember when I had my RX-7 and the Bosch Platinum +4's just came out. The parts guy at Pep Boys kept trying to sell me them because "their four-electrode design will be much better than the 20 year-old design on the NGK plugs I wanted." Of course, what he didn't realize was that the rotary engines have always used four-electrode spark plug designs. But, then again, he kept talking about how much better the plugs would be for clearing carbon deposits out of the cylinders and piston heads. Rotary engines don't have cylinders or pistons...
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You made my point. I used to work at a parts store some years ago, when they were just Bosh Platinums. We were about 80% wholesale, but we'd get an occasional person off the street looking for plugs that double their HP. After going through the whole thing with them and suggesting that they stick with the OEM make, they'd ask for the Platinum or Splitfire. I tend to tell a convincing story, but the marketing machines of these companies have talked the masses into believing that the emperor has some fine threads on.
  • nematodenematode Member Posts: 448
    Even when I lay on the gas 2 times a day (to redline in 2 gears after full warm-up) the MPG figures do not change much. Driving 85mph knocks it into the mid-20s. My MPG varies between 26-29 and my best is 33mpg. I drive 65-75mph (with traffic) and dont really beat on the car. I'm at around 6k miles. To get that 33mpg I was driving on back roads through Missouri and around 45-55 the entire time.
  • eeterpeeterp Member Posts: 33
    I agree that platinum plugs (and other "super" plugs) won't really help proteges. I've heard about people having problems in their pros due to these "upgraded" plugs. However, not all parts are this way. Changing OEM parts can yield a superior driving experience (depending on your personal taste) weither it be appearance, audio, performance, handeling, or breaking. My reccomendation is RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I agree with you to an extent. I did a lot of mods on watercooled VWs back in the day. I learned a lot doing so, but I ended up with this opinion: It's very hard to make things better. What is possible is to give up one aspect for another. HP usually comes at the expense of drivability or emissions. Better handling is traded for ride quality. Of course, many feel it worth it to make these changes, just be informed.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    There is a new, less restrictive exhaust system out for the P5, which should fit the Protege 2.0 engine. I was thinking about adding it, but will it void the warranty. Also, I heard it only takes two bolts to remove the exhaust pipe and muffler and replace it with the new one. Is that true? Thanks. Malt, help me out! :)
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    What kind of benefits/detriment will a new exhaust have on the Pro? Less power? More power? More noise? Etc.
    Thanks
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Any true Mazda accessory will not void the warranty of the vehicle. The exhaust system available from the dealer is from the MP3 (P/N 0000-8M-C08).

    You are correct about removal/installation: two bolts, replace the gasket ring, pop on the hanger and you are in business.

    :)
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I vote for noise.

    :)
    waiting for eeterp to beat me up on this one...lol
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