Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

pjd58 · January 2002

I have owned 3 Protege's(91,96 & 01) with a total of 220,000 miles and not one single problem. The Protege is one of the most reliable cars on the road. My 86 Corolla GTS had numerous problems....head gasket,oil leaks, electical failure, not to say all corollas are bad cars.

My point is any car can have issues, including the Protege. Statistically, as far as reliability, the Protege is better than most of the competition.

Pjd58

P.S. Depending how the car was driven over 90,000 miles, ball joints could fail on any car.

ekbahan · January 2002

I have 1993 Mada Protege and I am having a problem with the trasmisson in reverse, the car seems like its in foward and reverse and goes no where. It will only go to 1500 rpms because it seems like there is some kind of a lock up. Its like putting your foot on the gas to go foward with the brake on and goes nowhere. But put it in foward and no problem

browntrout1 · January 2002

I have a foul smell that i get now that it's colder out. Once the temp guage gets past 1/4 of the way up, I sometimes get a foul smell. After the car has fully warmed up, I usually don't get this smell anymore. I get the smell when I have the heater on usually as well...which is most of the time since it's winter. The smell doesn't seem to be comming from the exhuast becuase I've checked that a few times.

I think the engine usually has some vents on the crankcase...maybe it's this? I don't know. Either that or there is a small exhaust leak before the rear cat which might make sense. The only other thing I think it could be related to is the ignition system. The rubber on the plug wires has come off a little on the top by the valve cover. I'm going to change the plugs soon too. I have 34500 kms on the car so far so I think it's due for that. Let me know if you guys have had this problem before and what it was.

mazdafun · January 2002

I think you may have a stripped synchro gear in your transmission if you fully engage R and don't hear/feel anything coming from your tranny. The engine may be rpm-limited when the computer senses you've engaged (or tried to engage) reverse to avoid damaging the transmission (sounds like it's too late though).

Better take it in. Quick way to see if there's mechanical damage is to lower the transmission pan and look for metal shavings etc. (not sure about this particular transmission, but most also contain a very strong permanent magnet to capture loose ferromagnetic bits of metal).

mazdafun · January 2002

This smells quite foul. It's a quite acrid scent. Anyone who's driven through Toledo would know it. Check to make sure no hoses or wires are coming into contact with the engine block or exhaust manifold.

Recently, I've had a brief whiffs of coolant when accelerating hard. I just recently had my dealer replace the engine coolant. Wouldn't surprise me if they spilled a little somewhere and didn't wash it off.

mdaffron · January 2002

If you've got a 2000 automatic and it's slipping out of fifth gear, you've got a unique transmission indeed!

Meade

axjoke · January 2002

Yeah, its a 2000 ES. As an update it hasn't slipped since that day. Even on the return trip it worked flawlessly. However it wasn't a 1 time thing... over about a 180 mile period, 1 day, it slipped out at least 10 times going about 75mph on an interstate with cruise on and about 20 times on country roads without cruise.

Would you suggest taking it to the dealer? It runs fine now and i assume they willl just laugh at me and my story. As i might do if the roles were reversed.

mdaffron · January 2002

What I meant by my message was, the automatic transmission doesn't have a fifth gear! It's a four-speed automatic. So if you've got an automatic and it's slipping out of FIFTH, you've got one interesting transmission, LOL!

Are you nuts? I would DEFINITELY and WITHOUT HESITATION take it to the dealer. (I assume you're still under warranty.) That way, even if they can't duplicate the problem in-house, they can document it so you'll have a chance if your transmission goes south after your warranty expires. Don't give in; I had a 1994 B2300 pickup (piece of crap built by Ford for Mazda) that had numerous engine problems. Even though my warranty expired at the normal 3 years/50,000 miles, they continued to monitor and fix these ongoing problems -- at no cost to me -- until I sold the truck with 118,000 miles on it.

Give 'em hell!

Meade

mazdafun · January 2002

Was this happening on grades? The way the AT works is 1-2-3-OD-Torque Lockup. The TL feels like a fifth gear ratio, but isn't. It just locks the engine output to the transmission input so they don't slip relative to each other and bleed power.

On grades, the AT can couple/decouple the torque lock-up as it senses torque in the transmission approach some limit. The lock-up mechanism activates below this threshold to increase efficiency of power transfer. It decouples to avoid damaging the transmission or engine by allowing the interface to slip (as in drive ratios 1,2,3 and OD). On long moderate grades, this can happen several times as the car's computer tries to maintain speed with the cruise control.

This happens with my AT, especially when transitioning from a flat (or downhill) to an uphill grade, or if I step sufficiently hard on the accelerator (as when coming out of a turn or curve or to pass someone).

Sorry for droning on if that's not the issue.

axjoke · January 2002

That sounds similar to what was happening but it still seems wierd. I live in indiana, rather flat, but i was driving through a semi hilly area with lots of curves and was accelerating decelerating a lot. This is when the problem started. I drove about another 100 miles in the hilly/curvy type roads and then proceded on a major highway which was as straight and flat as they come.. the problem wasn't as severe but it did slip there too on multiple occasions.

The bleed power sounds like a better discription than the slipping one i used as i didn't notice a shift in gears.. but rather i noticed the rpms going up rather quickly from the low 3,000's to the mid 6000's, over about 5 to 20 seconds, while maintaning the same speed. This seems a bit extreme.. almost like the car was severly overcorrecing...

Mddaffron... thanks for the correction.. sadly i even put some thought into it before i posted about 4th and 5th gears... guess that example conveys my lack of car knowledge better than anything.

thanks for the help

mazdafun · January 2002

That is unusual. Sounds like it is slipping from OD to 3. In OD, low 3000rpms should put you at about 65mpg. Shifting down to 3rd would put you in high 5000s. I think your computer and the transmission sensors need to be checked out. I doubt any mechanical components in the AT are damaged.

You might try taking it easy (no sudden accelerations/decelerations) for a while. The computer does try to learn your driving style and adapt to it. It may try to downshift more quickly to deliver faster responses to accleration demands, so it might make the acclerator a bit touchier. Still, take it in for a diagnosis. If there's anything wrong with the computer or sensors, they should be able to pick it up when they hook up to the computer. If not, then I'd check the sensors in the AT.

axjoke · February 2002

Just got back from the dealer. They didn't tell me what was wrong, but did say that they ordered a new transmission and that it will be in in 10 days. The car has been fine since that one day where the transmission slipped.. but i guess the dealer found what was wrong.

I'm none to impressed with my car, but recognized that even good manufactures can produce a lemon. No way will i keep this thing past the warrenty..

kentros · February 2002

I have a 96 Protege ES bought new- has 45,000 miles.My Problem is the exhaust system does not hold up
on this car. The factory exhaust rusted out and fell off the car a little after 3 years and the
Walker replacement done at a local tire shop is corroded and leaking after 2 years.
Does anyone know where I can find a stainless steel aftermarket exhaust or a chain who will
make me a stainless one? This is getting a little tiring.

Thanks

maltb · February 2002

If you pay for a Mazda OEM muffler it is lifetime warranty(parts and labor) at any Mazda dealer. Hard to beat that.

jrdwyer · February 2002

The muffler on my '95 Protege LX went out recently at 138,000 miles. The muffler itself was fine, but it cracked at the welded flange that connects the rear pipe to the muffler. I found a front end wrecked '98 or '99 Protege at the pull-apart/junkyard and got a good OEM muffler for $6. It was fairly easy to put on; I just used my ramps on the rear wheels. The muffler can be removed from the rubber mounts by applying a little grease and pulling. Although I didn't use a spring compressor, it would speed up the job.

loneraven · February 2002

I have a 92 Protege, 1.8L SOHC. Last year I noticed the engine light was on. It would stay on for a couple minutes, usually not long after I started the car. There was no problem detected at that time.

But now the problems start to show. The light stays on for longer and longer time periods. And when the light is on, the RPM sometimes starts to go up and down between 0 and 1. Quite a few times it reached 0 and the car just died. This happens most often during a stop. The most recent one scared me to death: As I was slowing down toward a red light and not applying the gas, the car suddenly died when it was still moving forward.

I took the car to a mechanic and he told me that the distributor is "leaking internally". I got two distributors from the junk yard and got different results. (BTW, my friend installed them for me. I am an idiot when it comes to mechanic stuff.) The first one was from a 93 Protege, when it was installed the engine light was off but the engine itself started knocking like hell. The second one got the same result as my old distributor. Nothing is improved.

My friend then concluded that this engine light problem is probably NOT caused by the distributor, but more likely by the fuel injection.

His reasoning is that since the problem seems to have something to do with temperature (when the car dies I have to wait for it to cool off for half an hour before I can successfully restart it.), and distributor is unlikely to be affected by change in temperature...

So what are your takes on this one? I'd really appreciate it if anyone can give me some advice.

mazdafun · February 2002

Well, not sure, but the sequence in the older Pro's distributor could not have matched your car's. This can lead to really hellacious knocking (as I discovered when I crossed spark plug wires once on my '89 323...oops).

maltb · February 2002

would be coil or ignitor(top pick).

The knocking may be the wrong dist cap/rotor combination or the rotor was not all the way on the dist shaft.

mkarns · February 2002

Hi All,

I have a '95 Protege LX with the automatic overdrive trannie.

According to the Haynes manual there should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gear case beside the filter pan but I sure can't find it.

Am I just blind or is there not one there?

I just bought the car and was trying to get some of the old fluid out and replace it with new. I'll replace filter, etc. when it warms up.

Thanks....

ashutoshsm · February 2002

Sorry, I can't help you with your question - but I'm sure some of the regular gearheads on the forum (Mazda Protege) will tell you what you need to know!

I wanted to raise the issue of the automatic transmission drain. If you bought the car used, how many miles does it now have? Do you know when (if!) the last transmission fluid change/replace.refill was carried out?

I was told by my Mazda service advisor (when I had my 60K services performed a year ago) not to change the fluid if I didn't know if the fluis had been changed before. Something to do with the new fluid being less viscous and oozing through seated washers and seals. However, I think not changing the fluid would do more harm, over time - so I am considering getting this done (or doing it myself, who knows!) anyway.

Opinions? (from others too!)

TIA!

mkarns · February 2002

My Protege has 129,000 miles on it. The fluid looks somewhat brownish but doesn't smell too bad.

I just wanted to get some fresh fluid in there to maybe keep things going til warmer weather gets here.

Quaker State sells a ATF Dexron II compatible fluid especially for Japanese automobiles. I don't know if its better or not.

mazda02 · February 2002

Just bought a 2002 LX and find that the suspension is pretty stiff going over bumps, more so than I recall from the drive in the demo car.
Car is great on smooth surfaces, but in Washington, DC potholes abound! (Know the Protege has a stiffer suspension than most Japanese cars.)

Does the suspension loosen up over time, or can it be adjusted to be a bit less stiff?

Tire pressure is at 32 psi, the recommended level, should I drop that a bit?

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

boggse · February 2002

My 2001 Pro ES has about 10,000 miles on it. The suspension hasn't softened noticeably. You could potentially get softer springs from an earlier model. I'm sure that there are several 1999 & 2000 Pro owners who would trade with you.

mazdafun · February 2002

That'll help. When time comes to replace them, look for touring or passenger-type tires, although this will usually slow down handling response.

Other than that, you're looking at new springs and strut cartridges. Mucho mas $$$$.

chikoo · February 2002

I changed over to 205/55/15 v-rated(BFG touring t/a V4) instead of 195/55/15 poortenza tires and then reduced the pressure to 28psi.
The theory bieng that I get more rubber between the wheel and the road which would allow the tire to absorb road irregularities.

Worked like a charm.

No difference in steering response at regular speeds, although it does feel a bit heavy during parking which I attribute to the wider tire, which is ok by me if I am going to get a smooooth ride over road cracks, manhole covers and road joints.

dinu01 · February 2002

That's one of the MAIN reasons I bought the PRO. The best ride out of all small cars! The stiff suspension makes the ride firm and fun!

nematode · February 2002

Yup, here too. I have the 01 ES and I keep my tires at 35psi. I dont mind feeling the bumps to get the additional sidewall stiffness and firm ride. So you cant have my springs!!! Oh, wait, you can if you trade me the MP3 springs.

gandalf17 · February 2002

The recommended manufacturers cold tire pressure is 32psi for the Protege. This is the optimal tire pressure determined by the protege design and engineering team taking into account the OEm tires, pro suspension, absorbtion, handling etc. I would recommend that if you want your PRO to handle and drive to the fullest of it's capabilities, set the cold tire psi to 32psi.

You can actually deteriorate both the longevity and quality of your tires and suspension by reducing or increasing the psi in tires beyond a certain capacity.

The recomended tire pressure can be found on the drivers side. Badging is either on the door or body panel. i think it's the door.

ashutoshsm · February 2002

Tires can handle a range of pressures, and that adjusts the hadnling and ride/feel of a car. manufacturers only sugegst one number to suit the majority - no reason not to adjust it to one's own preferences, within safe limits!

A lot of people that autocross, and keep sporty tires on all the time (including street driing) adjust pressure to vary the handling characteristics (at the cost of slightly extra wear, of course).

gandalf17 · February 2002

we're agreeing on the same thing really. You can certainly adjust and vary tire pressure to suit your needs, but it is wise to find out the specific tolerances of the tire before doing so. Every tire has a recommended minimum and maximum tire pressure. Essentially, a safe range. However, they only usually place the recommended maximum tire pressure on the actual tire.

The engineer's do recommend a specific tire psi for a car as based on it's OEM tires and suspension tuning from factory. They do this based on what they feel is their design specification handling, ride characteristics etc. Notice i said OEM tires. BY altering the type and size of tires, this completely changes the equation. Also, it is a known fact that by decreasing or increasing optimal tire pressures (it is a range as you indicate) you greatly can affect the wear to your tires or put you at risk of tire blow-out or loss of control in emergency type handling circumstances. It also affects the suspension reactions.

Did that help clarify myself? I hope so.

nematode · February 2002

You wrote: "taking into account the OEM tires, pro suspension, absorption, handling"

You are forgetting ride quality. The tire pressure number is a comprimize taking into account variety of things some of which your mentioned. The major factor that most people care about is ride quality. While the suggested number is "optimal" for overall performance is is not optimal for my daily side wall bending runs onto the highway. I can actually feel the flex when I drop to 30psi. After 35psi I cannot really tell the difference except the ride gets harsher. The Dunlops SP5000 that come standard on the ES are fantastic tires for the money and 99.99% will not explore their limits. I dont because I'm not crazy but I like to play with them. If I were auto-Xing I would probably inflate them to around 50psi to get the sidewall stiffness. If I'm not mistaken the range for the 195/50/16 is 30-50psi. However, 50psi probably not so great for wet traction where a less stiff tire helps. I have tried a variety of pressures and for me 35psi works and my wife does not complain when she rides along. Another example is my wifes Outback Ltd. Its supposed to be 30F/29R. When the pressure is down that low the thing floats really bad making me car sick and it "waddles" at highway speed. She (nor I) cant stand driving it like that. I keep that car at 34psi all around because thats the way the wife likes it. When we are carrying a lot of stuff (>600lbs) across country I keep it at 38psi. When we had it on the beach I had it at 20psi all around for low speed crawling traction BUT I carry a compressor so I just raise if before getting on the road. Dont drive around on under-inflated tires!!!! Some people have quirks about the 3k oil change. I change my oil every 7.5k but check my tire pressures at least once a week in both cars.

yooper53 · February 2002

re: suspension..I'm with you both on that.Wouldn't have it any other way. Got the six missing parts to my strut tower brace kit today from Mazda south. Other posts seem to indicate this is a worthwhile retrofit. Just gotta be patient and wait for spring now.

dinu01 · February 2002

From: http://www.batauto.com/Mazda.html

Dinu

mazdafun · February 2002

Very helpful link.

mazda02 · February 2002

Thanks to all for the advice on the suspension. Either I am getting used to it or it's loosening up, but it's less bothersome than it was initially.

The car really is fun on open, curvy roads, and I still marvel at the interior fit and finish!

tomciviletti · February 2002

factory pressure recommendation is usually meant to give even wear accross the tire tread. Increasing pressure increases wear at the tread center. Decreasing pressure increases wear at the edges. You can asjust ride and handling characteristics by changing pressure within a narrow range. Ford recommended too low a pressure on explorers to soften ride and people hads their mediocre firestones meltdown.

2young2retire · February 2002

I too was somewhat unhappy with the firm ride of my '96 Protege LX when I first got it. At about 45K miles I replaced the tires and the new ones, Goodrich, must have had a softer compound than the original tires. The gas mileage went down a smidgen but the ride improved a lot. Same air pressure, 32 PSI. Go figure. Item two, at about 90K I had the transmission flushed and refilled at my local Mazda dealer. The fluid they used for replacement was the "new and improved" Dextron fluid. However since then the transmission shifts differently, most noticeable during the 3rd to 4th shift. Just not as firm and seems to lag somewhat when hot. Has anyone else noticed this problem? I am wondering if the transmission was designed around the old formula fluid and doesn't work as well with the new stuff. Any input would be helpful. Thanks.

ladyzoom · February 2002

Hello. This is my first time participating on this chat. I have a 2000 Protege ES (4300 miles). I take it in every three months to have the oil changed. Last Friday evening, my check engine light came on. The hesitated a little then began to run normally. I took her to the dealer repair the next morning. They said the COILBOX needed to be replaced. Before the repairman told me about the coilbox, I saw my sales rep, he said that if the gas cap is not on tightly air can get into the line and that will make the check engine light come on. Someone mentioned to me that sometimes the part that is ordered can be a rebuild part rather than a new part. Now I'm wondering if my car is a lemon. I'm a little uncertain about this replacement, which is still under warranty, but there is nothing that I can do but get it fixed. They said the light would go out, which it was out by the time I drove off, and that it was not yet burned out but was only a warning so it would be best to replace while still under warranty. Has anyone every heard of this stuff before?

boggse · February 2002

Unless things have changed when I wasn't looking, as long as your Protege is still under its original factory warranty, you will get new OEM parts for it whenever warranty service is performed. In most states, your car has to be worked on 4 times for the same problem without resolution before it is considered a lemon. BTW, 4300 miles on a 2000 ES?! Do you walk to work or something?

tbay · February 2002

Our Protege (99) had the same thing happen twice within a few months. Wife took it over to the dealer right away and they took a new one out of a Protege on the lot and had her on her way in 20 mimutes. Said they never have seen it happen twice. The great service however made it a lot easier to take. Otherwise the car's been great in almost 3 years of ownership.

mdaffron · February 2002

Don't panic over one problem so early in the life of your car. With things like coil packs being built by machines and spit out at the rate of a few hundred an hour, I'm sure a bad one gets out every once in a while. That's why we have WARRANTIES!!!

If it'll help you feel better, I own a 2000 ES myself. Unlike you, I have to drive the car, LOL!, and I have 33,000 miles on mine. I have not had any mechanical problems with the car at all. Also, this is our fourth Protege, and none of them ever had any mechanical problems. My 1992 LX went 83,000 miles without visiting the shop once for anything other than oil changes and scheduled maintenance.

Let 'em fix it under warranty. I doubt you'll ever have another problem. And like the other members said -- your car is far from being a lemon. Here in Virginia, you have to have the same problem with your car three times in 18 months -- and still unresolved -- for you to have a lemon law case.

Good luck, and enjoy your Protege!

Meade

birdman_1 · February 2002

Assuming you didn't mistype your mileage... 42,000 miles sounds more normal than 4200 for a 2000 Protege... another thing to think about with your check engine light is water in your fuel. If your car sits around A LOT, like mine sometimes (I travel for a living), water can condense in your fuel tank just from the repetitive heating and cooling of sunlight and change in humidity. If your car doesn't drive much and your tank doesn't get flushed with new gas very often, the water buildup can get substantial. This happened to a Saturn I had last year that sat around in an airport parking lot for 3-4 days at a time for several weeks straight (ugh). If you get enough water, your engine might cough or run weird for a little while, triggering that Check Engine light.

My suggestion would be to keep the fuel tank topped (over 3/4 full) when you know it won't be driven much in the next 24-48 hours, minimizing the amount of air (and therefore water vapor) in it.

Or you could drive it a lot more! Hmmm, maybe this is all just my excuse for driving around a lot since my Protege5 is so much fun...

jimpas2000 · March 2002

I have a 93 Protege. Sometimes the horn will go on by itself. I'll have to hit it hard to make it stop. It's so sensitive that a slight touch will set it off while I'm driving. Three time it went off while I was in my house. What am I to do?

mazdafun · March 2002

Condensation on them might also produce the same effect. When you slam the horn, you might be shaking the condensation loose or bend the contacts back.

main1 · March 2002

my protege is in the shop now for the coil pack. Was fine, out of no where started to act like gas having a hard time getting to it.....should have it back tomorrow....other problems with check engine light have always beens some check fuse thing or something...car has 28,000 on it....drive it several times a week.....love the handling...don't like the taking it to the shop for these problems, even if they are under warranty, especially since I live 35 miles from town....but it is fun to drive!!

mazdafun · March 2002

OK, any ideas on the following?

Intermittently (as in it almost never happens when I'm trying to listen for it) something from the rear of my car squeaks when I lightly apply the brakes. I suspect the drum brakes in the rear. I have only about 24,000 miles and the front disc pads appear to have about 33% wear left, so I doubt the rear drum pads are worn down. The other thing is I never hear the squeaking during harder braking, only light braking.

I don't think it's a big deal, but wanted to be sure it isn't by checking here. I suspect there may be accumulated brake dust in the drums that causes the intermittent squeaking. Any other possibilities?

maltb · March 2002

Most likely that. There is a slim possibility that you need some lube(synthetic brake grease wont wash away as easily) where the shoe contacts the backing plate.

mazdafun · March 2002

Thanks for the advice. If it gets to the point of irritation, I'll actually go through the trouble of yanking off the drum housing to apply that grease.

Naturally, after I mentioned it here, the noise has gone away.

curt3 · March 2002

Hello Everyone. Has anyone out there accumulated 60,000 miles yest on his/her Protege?

I am right at 60K on my 2000 LX with manual transmission and was wondering about the wheel bearings. Are they sealed or do they need to be re-packed? There is no mention of this in the user's manual.

Thanks!

browntrout1 · March 2002

I recently had to have my coil pack changed along with the first cat. I took my car in for a rotten smell. They couldn't find anything. Took it in again, Talked to the mechanic for 20 min. He popped the hood again, started the car to show something. He did some sort of idle test. Found there was a problem. There were some black marks inside the coil pack where the plug wire contacts so he said that was the problem. Changed the cat as well becuase the gas that was not getting burned ended up in the cat and probably fried it. There were no major drivablity problems except for the smell and a slight loss in power. Didn't notice a loss in power until I got the car back after it was fixed...I noticed it was more responsive.

As far as the whole air pressure thing, I don't mind the harsh ride to much. There is no way around it in Montreal becuase of all the pot holes so might as well have fun. Front tires are at 37psi, rears are at 35 psi. No abnormal tire wear due to this. The rear tires seam to be wearing a little more on the inside but that is becuase there is a slight degree of negative camber to the rear wheels. When I get new tires (soon), I'll be getting the alignment done.

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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