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The problem is that they seem to leak air to a higher degree than other tires. I wonder if others are experiencing the same problem. Although my stock alloys with 150K could be part of the problem.
Thanks
You didn't say where you live, but if you live in an area that uses road salt in the winter, salt starts to corrode aluminum wheels.
Mrbill
I am having a problem getting the car to start. It will turn over and try to start but when I press down on the gas it sounds like it is sucking in large amounts of air. Then I get a light smell of gas.
Any thoughts?
-FS
Any ideas as to what to check?
Thanks!
It's hard to compare squeak noises since I can't hear yours but I had a very similar problem just 2 weeks ago with my 05 accord coupe. Here were my symptoms:
*Squeak at low speeds - ESPECIALLY going over speed bumps at a reasonable speed (reasonable meaning SLOWLY, not flying over them).
*Squeak at speeds below 45ish on small bumps/cracks/uneven surfaces.
*Squeaks coming onto or off of concrete aprons leading onto or out of a parking lot, driveway, etc.
*NO squeak when I manually bounce the suspension (rear, in my case) up & down as hard as I could.
I took the car to my local dealer and service folks initially thought they fixed the problem by tightening a loose control arm bolt. Unfortunately that didn't fix anything, so I requested that a service tech ride with me so that I could point out the problem. After going over a few cracks and several speed bumps, the tech knew what sound to look for. He spent 5 hours working on the suspension with another tech and still couldn't pinpoint the problem - so he experimented with replacing the rear struts - and it turned out that my left rear strut was the squeaker. Now I've got a new strut and things are just fine.
Also, search this area for other strut/squeak stories because I think someone else had the exact same problem and their strut was also to blame.
GOOD LUCK!
I went back and checked and it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4 - which I was also considering. The most amusing part about this however - is that it is the *same*exact*car* as the Passat. Same engine. Same trans. Same suspension. Same electrical... the only differences are minor body panel changes and emblems. This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap.
Mrbill
It ended up being the front end tie rods. THAT repair was more than the struts but the dealer ate it since I'd already paid for new struts that were not needed.
I diagnosed this after research on the web but dealer acted like I was crazy until it ended up being the problem.
make sure u are getting fuel.
make sure u are getting air.
make sure u are getting spark.
i dont know how hands on u are about working on it so... is it fuel injected? is it carburator? when ur holding the pedle down u are opening the throtle body which is the main air intake. so u probally will hear something, but it shouldnt be to loud i wouldnt think. and if its carburated holding down the peddle dumps gas into the intake and any unspent fuel vapors will be noticible. if its fuel injected, check for a leak in your fuel lines. when u turn the key the pump starts, pressurizing the lines. any leaks and gas will drip, hence smell of gas.
I'm puzzled by your post #11721 comment "it was NOT the Passat that got the ravest reviews in the 2005 CR new/used car guide, but the Audi A4" If you read the CR Reliability Scores for the Audi A4 (V6), the '97 through'00 models and the '02 & '03's all received a Black X Reliability Verdict (Worse-than-average reliability for those years). The '01s received a Gray Dash - Reliability Verdict (Average reliability for that year).
The '04's (with an average of less than six months of age and under 3,000 miles of use) received a Red check (Better than average reliability for that year).
Electrical, power equipment and brakes were the most commonly reported (by owners) problem areas in the survey results.
You also wrote "This leads me to believe that things like CR are a bunch of crap." Please realize that it is not Consumer Reports that is rating the surveyed vehicles. They are just compiling the roughly 810,000 owner/driver responses to the annual survey, and printing the resulting charts. This is what drivers, like you and me, are writing about their personal vehicles. That is very important to understand, and why the statistics are worth incorporating into a personal buying decision.
now i dont know if u'v checked but, even though your tires are a large part of the handling aspects of a car there are several components under the front that contribute in a big way. have u checked your control arm, the cvc joints, tie rods, bearings, ur front suspension sounds like the culprit not the tires.
i dont know what codes ur getting so i cant really help with that. go to autozone and get it checked and post the codes in hear, ull be more likly to get a response if we know the codes and could offer some advice.
good luck
I had the same problem of the wipers with my 03 Accord. Out of the blue- no wipers. :sick:
It turned out to be the motor. The warranty took care of it. I was on a national backorder list so Honda paid for a rental. Was told it would take up to 3 weeks, but the dealership was able to get the part within 10 days.
Good luck. Hopefully you won't have to wait too long.
2) check the cable, atached to the foot pedle is a cable, follow it and chack for kinks or binds or anything all the way to the throttle body.
3) check the throttle body lever its self, make sure its not catching or binding itself.
4) try giving every moving joint, from peddle to throtle bodie, a little shot of WD-40 and giving it all a little wiggle to see if it free's any thing up for you at all.
One mechanic told me I need a new fan, another said may be it is just the switch. Anyone have any ideas before I go spend my money. Thanks.
A/C doesn't cool. Well, it could lack refrigerant. Could be other things, too. How many miles on the car?
As stated in the previous posts, they use resistors to drop the voltage to the motor, giving you different speeds. The lower the speed, the greater voltage that needs to be dropped by the resistor, so the bigger chance it will evetually fail.
I don't know if Honda has the resistors attached to the switch or not, other manufacturers use a resistor module that is mounted on the ductwork. They do get hot!! and because of that, they mount them in the ductwork so the airflow cools them off.
You might see if the dealer has the module, see what it looks like, then check the ductwork and see if you can find it. If they do use resistors at the switch, it may be harder to get to.
As far as the A/C not cooling, Honda did use a sightglass in some of it's cars which show if there is enough R134A in it or not. My 88 had a sightglass, but my 04 does not, so I don't know if your 97 does.
Mrbill
I raised this issue with Honda service but when I take the car to them there is no problem so they return saying they did not find any. I am very frustrated. I need some expert advice or if someone has ever encountered similar problem please let me know what they did.
:confuse:
Hope this helps.
Chris
It must have come from another dealership since it had glue residue from the decal/sticker/emblem at the left rear.
I will ask them about correcting it but was wondering...
Can it be cleaned-up with no damage to the red paint?
Any idea how the dealer would fix it?
It looked like the front hood is lightly scratched.
Can it be corrected?
Again, how would the dealer fix it?
What would the long term affect be on the paint/appearance?
I keep my cars at least 10 years.
Thanks,
S
As far as the scratches, as long as they are not too deep, they should be able to be rubbed out without any long term problems. If they are deep, then the hood may need repainting. As long as it is done right, the hood should be just fine.
Mrbill
What else could cause my accord to pull to the right? I've had it aligned multiple times, the tires changed, and now I've had the suspension checked out.
if pressure is applied to the rear of the head rest the sound goes away. Anyone have any ideas?
And Audi is not a brand that I would anecdotally associate with high reliability in any model - regardless of what stats say. My experience suggest that Audis are "Innies" as in "in the shop" a lot.
Of course, when a domestic automaker comes out with a new car, CR puts "NEW" in the reliability rating, even if its based on a provedly reliable 10 year old platform with the same pushrod V-6 that's been in production since 1978 (can you say Buick LaCrosse (nee Century/Regal)?). Of course, if it was a 1st year new model Camry or Accord, CR might predict "BETTER THAN AVERAGE" even though they've never tested the actual vehicle. CR definitely has its biases, even without advertising.
statistic.
I see it just the opposite. The busy commuter, the mother who hustles three kids into and out of a car for the grocery, school, soccer practice, all these note less the quirks their car developes than the alleged older Buick driver who probably has more time and drives more miles than the local driver (ever notice who's at the motels when you travel?) and actually complain more. Who has time to stop at the dealer for their car to be worked on and wait for is for 3-4 hours and then go back in two days if it's not right--worker, working mom--NOT. The older person.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
This is why, when I was in college, the required course on Statistics was called "Sadistics."
Have you sat in similar vehicles on the lot at your Honda dealer? Sitting in several will clearly illustrate if they are the same as, or diffent from, yours.
Anyway, over the past few weeks, my TCS light started to act up again. It would come on when I stepped hard on the brakes. Then it came on at weird times when I was not stepping on the brake. I ask the dealer to look at it every time I go in for an oil change, etc. They always tell me there's nothing wrong. Now, (again) the gear shift button is sticking and the TCS light comes on at the time of ignition. When I brought up the gear shifting issue last year they told me there was nothing wrong. I have found that starting the car about 3 times and pumping on the brake clears the gear shift problem, but not the light.
I am taking my car in on 8/18/05 since I am now having a terrible time getting the car to move out of park. I will update you on what happens/what they tell me. I already told them I will not accept my car from the shop until either they fix the problem, or replace the TCS system and/or transmission.
Of note, I had a similar problem with my Volvo a few years back and it turned out the transmission needed to be replaced. :mad:
And regarding the brakes...don't get me started.......
Best of luck.
Anyone have info on this problem?
does this symptom occur at high speeds or all speeds? if it at high speeds maybe, but highly unlikly, ther's damage to the front arrowdynamics of ur car, like i said very unlikly so u can almost certainly rule that option off. i would say perhaps, and once again highly unlikly, theres a problem with ur power steering, but since u really can tell when thats goin out and it affects left and right, once agian thats so uncertain u can check it off as well.
if its at all speeds.. short of specificly taking a honda tech from the dealership for a ride and showing him the problem while ur behind the wheel, i really dont know.
its a grandfather clock of components, all the clogs work with eachother to give u the time of day, but the clock store says the clogs are fine yet every day ur still 10 min off. think i read not to recetnly of a post where the guy said he requested a tech for a ride along, give it a try. whats to lose! show him, be persistant, and remember that the customer is always right. but dont let them dive to deep into ur poket either, this problem should not, could not, and better not cost an arm and a leg. please keep me posted and good luck!!!
If the trans was locked up because the car rolled backwards while in gear, then why didn't pressing in the clutch solve the problem? Pushing in the clutch obviously disconnects the trans from the engine. Wouldn't the lockup have disappeared the moment the clutch was pressed?
I have caused a lockup of a drive train but that only happened on a stick 4x4. Turned out that the car had different size front and rear tires. 5 feet after shifting it into 4 wheel drive the car came to a screeching hault. I had to roll it backwards before I could get it out of gear.
Mrbill