Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

1…246247249251252…256

Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Sounds like you got your headlights fixed under a goodwill from the dealer.

    And your also set for as long as you own your car with your new muffler bearings! They only need replacing once with every other owner of the car.

    Mrbill
  • mpropstmpropst Member Posts: 3
    Ok, this is my first time here, so here goes. I am a 27 year old female that knows NOTHING about cars. I have a 98 Honda Accord with about 92,000 miles on it. Recently I hear a jiggling or chirping sound coming from the front of my car when driving. Every time I go over a little bump or my car moves slightly I hear it. Also when standing outside of my car and pressing on the hood I hear it. I have been told this means I need new shocks? I never had to replace the shocks in my previous Honda Accord. I made an appt. with the Honda dealer for tomorrow, but I am scared of sounding like an idiot. Do I ask them to look at them first to tell me if that is what I need? I am worried about the cost also. I live up here in MI now, so I am worried if the snow is making them wear out faster? I lived in NC before. Please help!
  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    What I would do is when you arrive at the service bay just tell them what you have told us here. Do not mention the shocks.....otherwise they might want to replace them....even if they don't need it. It depends on the dealership though....for the most part most service centers at Honda dealerships are good....just wait until they come back and tell you what they have found....it doesn't sound to serious....if they want to charge you allot to repair it maybe you can take it to another Honda dealer (if avaiable) for a second opinion. I have not heard of to many shocks wearing out on an Accord....anything is possible I guess....remember....you do not have to get it fixed right on the spot....if it is going to be allot of money....take a step back....think about your options....maybe come back to this board....tell us what they said and go from there....oh...by the way....it doesn't sound like a safety issue either.....which is a good thing!
    Let us know what happens!!
  • mpropstmpropst Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I have no idea what it could be, but someone told me if you push down on your hood and hear squeeking sounds it can't be good. I am relieved to hear it may not be a safety issue. I just hope it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. I am dropping it off at 8am tomorrow on my way to work, and will ask them to call me to let me know the cost of the repairs (and what is wrong). Unfortunately they are the only one in the area, but I don't know any local shops around here either so I don't know who to trust. I will definitely let you know what they say.. Thanks again.
  • pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    Sorry to hear about your problems. Hope you have better luck with your new car.

    With both my '03 and my '05, I've experienced some "creaky" noises which seem to be coming from the door and window seals. On the '03, the noises settled out and were not heard again. I haven't had the '05 long enough, but I have no reason to suspect they won't do the same thing. Besides, I don't hear them unless the car is completely quiet, with radio and CC off. To me, it's not a big deal.

    I have to disagree with you about your characterization of Honda interiors. In my experience, they are nearly the best. My dad's '04 Malibo cannot compare to my Accord, nor could my '04 Mazda 6. Nor can the Altima, Camry (according to the recent C/D comparo), or the new Fusion (also accordig to the recent C/D comparo).

    Anything made by man will be imperfect, so there are bound to be a few Accords that rattle and squeak to drive a person nuts. But that is not a characteristic of every one of them, nor does it indicate that Honda is cheap with the interiors. Show me another car in the Accord's price range that has a better interior.
  • acookacook Member Posts: 1
    From what I know there is a rubber donut at the top of the strut between it and the body that needs to be greased and/or replaced.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ok, i'll bite. mrbill, what is a muffler bearing? it's a joke right?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    LOL,

    Yep

    Mrbill
  • freddie2freddie2 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 98 Accord Coupe just doing it lately. I just had it serviced coz the "ENGINE CHECK" came on, and so i had it diagnosed, the result was a Bad Cat/Fuel Cap. So those were fix. But now every now and then while driving the car would stall without warning, but it will start as soon you will start it again. You think this could be a "Faulty Ignition swith"?. But i'm going to test the battery post, right now, see if that cause.
  • vitaminvitamin Member Posts: 1
    After about 200,000 miles, my fuel injectors are leaking and a mechanic stated that they need to be replaced. Is this doable for a novice mechanic? Should I get a Helm's manual? Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    Hi Folks, I bought a used Honda Accord Coupe EX, with 58K on it. I have a few issues I would like to toss out to see if anyone can help. First issue is the brake light. The passenger side brake light is not working, causing the "brake lamp" light on the dash to come on. I looked at the bulb, and the filament looks great. Turn signal works, and parking lights work..just no brake light. I checked all fuses, but figured that wouldnt be it, if the drives side works, and plan to replace that bulb, but if that doesnt work, what/where would I start to see why the brake part of the buld isnt working on that side. Also, it was working when I bought the car, so I thought the bulb burned out, but like I said, both filaments looks new. Thanks!
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    Second isse with my accord is the are vents. When I press the mode putton, to change the air from the dash vents, to blow to the floor only, like for the heater, air still blows from the dash vents. I would assume, that when the arrow is pointing at the feet only, that air would only blow at the feet. Where would I start to troubleshoot this?
    Thanks!
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    I noticed that there is brake fluid leaking from an aluminum block where all of the brake lines go into. I am thinking it is the antilock brake pump?? anyway, I checked the tightness of each line, and they are tight. Would this be a job for a Honda dealer to fix? I am thiking they will need to re-flare the ends or something? Anyone know about how those lines are sealed?
    Thanks!
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    OK, last one for now. :) Every so often I will hear a loud ticking noise from under the drivers seat. I looked under the car, and it was an oil filter shaped black thing. I am guessing it is the fuel pump? Is this a sign it is going out, or do they make that noise? I thought it was an exhaust leak at first, because it was pretty loud.
    Thanks!
  • mdebiasimdebiasi Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    the fuel pump in my 92 accord starts making a loud noise as the gas gets down to 1/4 of the tank. That is accompanied by frequent stalls.
    Also, I hear a sort of "sucking in" noise from under the car (more to the rear) at all times (full tank too).

    Any insights/suggestions truly appreciated
  • mdebiasimdebiasi Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    you'll find it here:

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_hmr_1.htm

    good luck!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    even when a bulb appears to have a good filament, there could still be an electrical continuity problem. they are so cheap to replace...if you want to test the theory that it is the bulb, swap it with the bulb on the other side of the car...
  • savagekei05savagekei05 Member Posts: 29
    hello

    today, i brought my 2002 accord to a dealer for maintenance, i have this car for 3 years now and only had 26k on it, it costed me 328.75$ to do their 30k maintenance packet. they call me that there a servel operations they recommended me to do
    1) Engine Flush Using Bilstein Cleaners and filtering machine
    2)Clean carbon from intake manifuld, comdustion chambers and valves
    3)Clean deposits from Throttle Plate and Throttle Body
    4)3 year brake fluid replacement
    5)Tires Balance (all four)
    6)Battery replace *Half left*

    without replacing the battery, it would cost me around total of 895$ included 5% tax, but i only did the maintenance 330$, which means it would cost me around 565$ for doing all that above.

    My questions are, should I do everything that listed above? are Honda dealers cost too much? where else i can get the service w/ lower price in MD around Metro Area? or i should go back and pay 565$ for it? any commont would be GREAT!! plz! thanks! by the way, i know nothing about car so please help me!
  • 1992accord11992accord1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 4 cylinder Accord, and have the exact same problem. This problem started about a year back, but mysteriously fixed itself. Started today again after about 8 months. Please help!!!!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If your owners manual doesn't say to do those things, then dont!!! Honda wrote the manual, so they should know what they are talking about. Anything past that is money down the drain as far as I'm concerned.

    Their 30K maintenance is exactly that, theirs, its not Hondas.

    Mrbill
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    true! I got a new bulb and that fixed it...on to the next issue! Thanks!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Fuel injected cars use an electric fuel pump which is most often located inside the fuel tank (leastways on any fuel injected car I've ever owned). What you found may really be the inline fuel filter. (Hondas are just "different" enough that I can't say that with absolute certainty, though.) In principle the filter is easy to replace. In practice there're a lot of ways to mess things up for someone unfamiliar with opening pressurized systems containing very flamable liquids. You might want to have someone knowledgeable diagnose the ticking noise and deal with it - a snoot or an eyefull of gasoline is not a pleasant experience.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    agree with that.

    the poster can see what Edmunds recommends by going here:
    http://www.edmunds.com/used/2002/honda/accord/100003202/options.html

    and choosing Maintenance and answering the questions.

    At 30K, if the vehicle is an Automatic, I would suspect a Transmission Fluid replacement, Oil and Filter, Engine Air Filter, and checking the brake system (among others), including a tire rotation if that hasn't been done in a while.

    The stuff being quoted seems rather odd to me.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "1) Engine Flush Using Bilstein Cleaners and filtering machine"

    A crock if you've practiced timely oil changes according to your owner's manual schedule.

    "2)Clean carbon from intake manifuld, comdustion chambers and valves"

    Probably a crock unless you're experiencing drivability problems. ALL fuel sold in the U.S. contains detergent additives to prevent just this problem in the combustion chambers. Detergents in the motor oil do likewise for the intake valves. There's no source to permit entry of carbon into the intake manifold unless you've got leaky valves - not very likely on a three or four year old car unless you're experiencing drivability problems.

    "3)Clean deposits from Throttle Plate and Throttle Body"

    There shouldn't be any unless your air filter is leaking or torn.

    "4)3 year brake fluid replacement"

    Not a bad idea, but an independent shop can do this in 15 minutes and probably for a LOT less than the dealership (gag, choke) will charge you.

    "5)Tires Balance (all four)"

    Again, go to a tire shop and save some money. They have the same computer balance machines and they use 'em a lot more so they're probably better qualified to do the job right.

    "6)Battery replace *Half left*"

    Well, if it took three or four years to half deplete, you theoretically have another two or three years left. Theoretically. In practice it may be time, so, given the age of the battery, get a second opinion from a real auto electrical guy. He can do a load test to verify whether the battery is depleted and incapable of holding a full charge. He, or one of the national retailer chains such as WalMart, can sell you a better battery, with a longer warranty, for a lot less money than the dealership (gag, cough) will charge you for what amounts to a minimum service battery, too.

    My opinion? You're probably being suckered by a disreputable dealership (cough, gag) "service" department under the gun to turn revenue.
  • hermannhermann Member Posts: 38
    Don't know about you, but I would be finding a new dealer, or reputable independent shop, specializing in Honda or Japanese Designed Autos.REAL FAST !!!!!!!!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Agree. Sadly a superior car from a technologically advanced manufacturer doesn't guarantee equally superlative service at the dealership (choke, gag) level.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I agree with everyone else. In the Wash. DC area you can find plenty of good shops and reputable mechanics to do that kind of work. A battery is something that will give you real evidence of impending failure. A can of Chevron fuel system cleaner (techron)will remove the carbon and other deposits(it works). I've never heard a shop be so bold as to suggest engine cleaner after only 30K miles. Get out of their realm fast.
  • mpropstmpropst Member Posts: 3
    They just called me and said the rattling over bumps was caused by my front right strut. He said there was no fluid, and that I should get the left done also or there would be problems. PLUS I need an alignment and he said some other things I did not understand. Total bill: $483 Does this sound high? I decided not to take it to the Honda dealership because I was afraid it would be too high. What are your thoughts?
  • 24towin24towin Member Posts: 4
    Hey chuck03 that would be nice if you could e-Mail a picture to JINUTSCH@carrollsweb.com. Thanks
  • elbianelbian Member Posts: 10
    My 2001 Accord EX does the same thing, vent button set to floor and some air comes out of the dash. I think it is designed that way with no known fix other than to close the dash vent when the floor vent button is used. I have gotten used to it since it warms your hands up a bit on extremely cold days.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    After reading the mumbo-jumbo list, I still think flushing the brake fluid every 3 years is the only really necessary maintenance item you should seriously consider having done.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Agreed. Short of having any sort of drivability issues, the list is pretty much just blatant "upselling." Stick with the Honda maintenance schedule in your owner's manual and you'll have the car for ten years or 150,000 miles, or more.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if an A/T - at 30K, I think a transmission fluid flush would take priority over changing the brake fluid. just my humble opinion (and what i prioritized in an '02 at 30K).

    YMMV.
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    I have a 2000 automatic V6 Accord with 56,000 miles. I have not had any automatic transmission problems so far. Does anyone feel I have passed the danger zone for transmission problems or does the possibility still exist I stand a good chance of having the same transmission problems so many others have experienced?
  • bbtacobbtaco Member Posts: 15
    The transmission in our 99 V6 Accord went out at 72,000 miles. We had the transmission fluid changed at the dealer at 30 and 60,000 miles. We had also complained about a shudder from the transmission between 30-40 mph since it had about 20-25,000 miles on it. They had records of our complaints. Honda gave us a rebuilt transmission with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on it. But we had to pay approximately $400 for the labor. I believe the 2000 to 2001 Accords had a warranty extension on the transmissions. Here is some information.Accord transmission
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why would you want to flush the automatic trans at such low miles? It should look pretty pristine in there I would guess....well maybe a filter swap and drain the pan, okay but I wouldn't bother hooking it up to a flushing machine.

    Brake fluid flush is darn near MANDATORY in 3 years in my book anyway.
  • md55md55 Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone. We own a 99 accord and for the past 2 winters, the e-brake light comes on when ever the weather outside gets cold (below freezing tempterature). There seems to be no problems with the breaks and when we bring it in for tune ups the dealer doesn't say anything about break fluids being low. We had it checked out once when the light wasn't on and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. So I was wondering what can be causing this?
  • klrssklrss Member Posts: 28
    Well, thats is interesting...but also a relief that I dont have to tear apart the dash to figure it out. Thanks for the reply!
  • elbianelbian Member Posts: 10
    It takes a little time to get used to it. I hated it at first but when it is bitter cold out it does help to have a bit of warm air blowing on your hands.
  • jml5jml5 Member Posts: 1
    This is happening to my 2004 Accord EX V6, I have had the dealer look into this a couple of times, but they can't find anything unless it isn't working at that minute. I am at a loss and upset over this. I always found Honda to be so reliable and now I am thinking of selling and finding something else. If you find a solution, please share.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Shifty, good point, and I respect that and stand corrected w.r.t. changing the brake fluid! Thank you.

    I tend to follow a "severe" (as opposed to "normal") schedule because of Atlanta traffic (lots of idling and stop and go on the highway) and also the temperatures of summer.

    For the Severe Schedule, the manual maintenance schedule suggests:
    Brake fluid is recommended to be replaced every 3yrs, independant of mileage. (Same as Normal Schedule)

    AT Transmission fluid is recommended to be replaced every 60K or three years, then every 30K or 2 years. (For the Normal Schedule: 120K miles or 6yrs, and 90K miles or 5 years)...

    That said, I purchased the vehicle used with almost 30K miles. I had it inspected by an independant shop specializing in Honda vehicles. He recommended every 30K, and also since I didn't know the prior driving history...thought it made sense. I can tell you without a shadow of doubt that the vehicle shifted much much better following the service.

    I wanted to be documented if the transmission ever developed a problem.

    Lastly, I did this service because Edmunds maintenance schedule recommended it. ;)

    Has Honda modified their schedule for the 4-cyl AT?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    As far as I know, the only thing that triggers the e-brake light is the brake handle itself. Try setting-releasing the brake a few times, my guess the switch is sticking.

    Mrbill
  • rfrfrfrf Member Posts: 31
    I received my copy faxed from Honda itself. I do not have it in my possession at the time of this reply, but it has been refered to in prior posts and it can be located by running a search with the relevent terms on the web.

    I love my Accord - it is the best auto I have owned to date - in many ways, but this ABS mechanical/credibility issue affects the experience.

    I feel a lack of integrity from the dealerships. This is funny, as in strange, just like when the absolute best purchase price I got from EVERY dealership I went to when shopping was the same ... to the DOLLAR!!!
  • jackgerjackger Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 Honda Accord. Every time I fill the windshield washer Reservoir it drains all over the driveway. Either !) a hose is loose, 2) a hose is holed, 3) the Reservoir has a leak.

    Short of dismantling the entire car, can anyone provide direction as to what needs to be removed to get access to the Reservoir / hoses?

    Thanks
  • joe122joe122 Member Posts: 68
    "I was stuck in NYC rush hour traffic with a relatively new car that would not start with no apparent explanation or cause."

    This is something that just happened to me. I have a 2005 Accord LX that was purchased on 5/1/05. The morning it happened, the car would not start in my garage. I assumed that the battery was bad or low and started the car with a portable starter kit. The engine started immediately, but the dash display had an odd look and the headlight indicator flashed on and off with a loud ticking sound. Also, the visor and map lights/dome light flickered when turned on. I did not use the headlights or air-conditioner.

    After jumping the car, I tried to drive to the dealer to have the problem checked. I never made it. Within a few minutes, the engine simply stopped. I got out and jumped it again. This time, I only got 50 feet before the engine shut down. Try to imagine, if you will, me pushing my 6 month old Accord (with 7100 miles) through rush-hour traffic on US 1 in South Florida. If not for help from a couple of road Samaritans, I would never have succeeded. The irony is that I purchased a Japanese car specifically to avoid such an occurrence. I drove Toyota's for 20 years and never, ever had a starting problem. At least with a weak battery, it should be possible to jump the car and have the engine run until you reach your destination.

    Calling Honda Roadside Assistance from my cell phone got me a tow to the dealer (to the tune of $89 plus tip). After two hours of getting readouts and testing, they determined that there was a short in one of the battery cells. The dealer said that the on-board computer is programmed to detect shorts and respond by shutting the engine off. After replacing the battery, they tested the alternator output, ran some other tests and then pronounced the problem resolved.

    Unfortunately, the problem is NOT resolved. For now, the car is running fine, but there is nothing in place to prevent a reoccurrence. A problem with the battery somewhere down the road could result in another shut down scenario. In hot, humid, South Florida, car batteries have notoriously short lives.

    I consider this problem to be extremely dangerous and worrisome. If this occurs in some backwater, late at night, or on a limited access highway, the consequences could be dire.
  • md55md55 Member Posts: 3
    That is odd, we never use the e-brake and it only happens in the winter time. I was thinking the cold weather may have affected the wirings and turned the light on? Can that happen?
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    Hey Joe, if the car is now running fine why do you say the problem is not resolved?

    Life is full of things to worry about. If you are worried about the car breaking down again, then carry some survival stuff with you and maybe even a firearm. If the car breaks down at night, at least you ain't gonna freeze in South Florida.

    Make sure you have cell phone service that works in rural areas and always carry two cell phones in case one breaks down.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    My bet is the cold weather is somehow affecting the switch. Things tend to shrink when cold, and if the switch has problems, it may never have returned to it's full open position (contacts inside very close).

    Cycle it many times.

    There may be something else wrong, but ya got to start somewhere, and this would be a good start.

    Mrbill
  • dmertdmert Member Posts: 19
    I have a intermittent front end noise and cannot get it fixed because I cannot replicate the noise for my dealer. Seems to occur best, after driving over a bumpy part of the road. Sounds similiar to a flat tire that is still moving, but the tire is still inflated. The problem is that it eventually goes away, and after parking the car and returning to the car, the noise is gone. I did have my power steering unit replaced earlier. I wonder if there is any connection.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It shouldn't be that hard to access the reservoir and pull it out. Sometimes you can epoxy the crack in the plastic jug but that's a 50-50 bet. Sometimes the leak is the gasket around the little electric pump. Best to take it out and test it in the sink.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles