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And your also set for as long as you own your car with your new muffler bearings! They only need replacing once with every other owner of the car.
Mrbill
Let us know what happens!!
With both my '03 and my '05, I've experienced some "creaky" noises which seem to be coming from the door and window seals. On the '03, the noises settled out and were not heard again. I haven't had the '05 long enough, but I have no reason to suspect they won't do the same thing. Besides, I don't hear them unless the car is completely quiet, with radio and CC off. To me, it's not a big deal.
I have to disagree with you about your characterization of Honda interiors. In my experience, they are nearly the best. My dad's '04 Malibo cannot compare to my Accord, nor could my '04 Mazda 6. Nor can the Altima, Camry (according to the recent C/D comparo), or the new Fusion (also accordig to the recent C/D comparo).
Anything made by man will be imperfect, so there are bound to be a few Accords that rattle and squeak to drive a person nuts. But that is not a characteristic of every one of them, nor does it indicate that Honda is cheap with the interiors. Show me another car in the Accord's price range that has a better interior.
Yep
Mrbill
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks!
the fuel pump in my 92 accord starts making a loud noise as the gas gets down to 1/4 of the tank. That is accompanied by frequent stalls.
Also, I hear a sort of "sucking in" noise from under the car (more to the rear) at all times (full tank too).
Any insights/suggestions truly appreciated
you'll find it here:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_hmr_1.htm
good luck!
today, i brought my 2002 accord to a dealer for maintenance, i have this car for 3 years now and only had 26k on it, it costed me 328.75$ to do their 30k maintenance packet. they call me that there a servel operations they recommended me to do
1) Engine Flush Using Bilstein Cleaners and filtering machine
2)Clean carbon from intake manifuld, comdustion chambers and valves
3)Clean deposits from Throttle Plate and Throttle Body
4)3 year brake fluid replacement
5)Tires Balance (all four)
6)Battery replace *Half left*
without replacing the battery, it would cost me around total of 895$ included 5% tax, but i only did the maintenance 330$, which means it would cost me around 565$ for doing all that above.
My questions are, should I do everything that listed above? are Honda dealers cost too much? where else i can get the service w/ lower price in MD around Metro Area? or i should go back and pay 565$ for it? any commont would be GREAT!! plz! thanks! by the way, i know nothing about car so please help me!
Their 30K maintenance is exactly that, theirs, its not Hondas.
Mrbill
the poster can see what Edmunds recommends by going here:
http://www.edmunds.com/used/2002/honda/accord/100003202/options.html
and choosing Maintenance and answering the questions.
At 30K, if the vehicle is an Automatic, I would suspect a Transmission Fluid replacement, Oil and Filter, Engine Air Filter, and checking the brake system (among others), including a tire rotation if that hasn't been done in a while.
The stuff being quoted seems rather odd to me.
A crock if you've practiced timely oil changes according to your owner's manual schedule.
"2)Clean carbon from intake manifuld, comdustion chambers and valves"
Probably a crock unless you're experiencing drivability problems. ALL fuel sold in the U.S. contains detergent additives to prevent just this problem in the combustion chambers. Detergents in the motor oil do likewise for the intake valves. There's no source to permit entry of carbon into the intake manifold unless you've got leaky valves - not very likely on a three or four year old car unless you're experiencing drivability problems.
"3)Clean deposits from Throttle Plate and Throttle Body"
There shouldn't be any unless your air filter is leaking or torn.
"4)3 year brake fluid replacement"
Not a bad idea, but an independent shop can do this in 15 minutes and probably for a LOT less than the dealership (gag, choke) will charge you.
"5)Tires Balance (all four)"
Again, go to a tire shop and save some money. They have the same computer balance machines and they use 'em a lot more so they're probably better qualified to do the job right.
"6)Battery replace *Half left*"
Well, if it took three or four years to half deplete, you theoretically have another two or three years left. Theoretically. In practice it may be time, so, given the age of the battery, get a second opinion from a real auto electrical guy. He can do a load test to verify whether the battery is depleted and incapable of holding a full charge. He, or one of the national retailer chains such as WalMart, can sell you a better battery, with a longer warranty, for a lot less money than the dealership (gag, cough) will charge you for what amounts to a minimum service battery, too.
My opinion? You're probably being suckered by a disreputable dealership (cough, gag) "service" department under the gun to turn revenue.
YMMV.
Brake fluid flush is darn near MANDATORY in 3 years in my book anyway.
I tend to follow a "severe" (as opposed to "normal") schedule because of Atlanta traffic (lots of idling and stop and go on the highway) and also the temperatures of summer.
For the Severe Schedule, the manual maintenance schedule suggests:
Brake fluid is recommended to be replaced every 3yrs, independant of mileage. (Same as Normal Schedule)
AT Transmission fluid is recommended to be replaced every 60K or three years, then every 30K or 2 years. (For the Normal Schedule: 120K miles or 6yrs, and 90K miles or 5 years)...
That said, I purchased the vehicle used with almost 30K miles. I had it inspected by an independant shop specializing in Honda vehicles. He recommended every 30K, and also since I didn't know the prior driving history...thought it made sense. I can tell you without a shadow of doubt that the vehicle shifted much much better following the service.
I wanted to be documented if the transmission ever developed a problem.
Lastly, I did this service because Edmunds maintenance schedule recommended it.
Has Honda modified their schedule for the 4-cyl AT?
Mrbill
I love my Accord - it is the best auto I have owned to date - in many ways, but this ABS mechanical/credibility issue affects the experience.
I feel a lack of integrity from the dealerships. This is funny, as in strange, just like when the absolute best purchase price I got from EVERY dealership I went to when shopping was the same ... to the DOLLAR!!!
Short of dismantling the entire car, can anyone provide direction as to what needs to be removed to get access to the Reservoir / hoses?
Thanks
This is something that just happened to me. I have a 2005 Accord LX that was purchased on 5/1/05. The morning it happened, the car would not start in my garage. I assumed that the battery was bad or low and started the car with a portable starter kit. The engine started immediately, but the dash display had an odd look and the headlight indicator flashed on and off with a loud ticking sound. Also, the visor and map lights/dome light flickered when turned on. I did not use the headlights or air-conditioner.
After jumping the car, I tried to drive to the dealer to have the problem checked. I never made it. Within a few minutes, the engine simply stopped. I got out and jumped it again. This time, I only got 50 feet before the engine shut down. Try to imagine, if you will, me pushing my 6 month old Accord (with 7100 miles) through rush-hour traffic on US 1 in South Florida. If not for help from a couple of road Samaritans, I would never have succeeded. The irony is that I purchased a Japanese car specifically to avoid such an occurrence. I drove Toyota's for 20 years and never, ever had a starting problem. At least with a weak battery, it should be possible to jump the car and have the engine run until you reach your destination.
Calling Honda Roadside Assistance from my cell phone got me a tow to the dealer (to the tune of $89 plus tip). After two hours of getting readouts and testing, they determined that there was a short in one of the battery cells. The dealer said that the on-board computer is programmed to detect shorts and respond by shutting the engine off. After replacing the battery, they tested the alternator output, ran some other tests and then pronounced the problem resolved.
Unfortunately, the problem is NOT resolved. For now, the car is running fine, but there is nothing in place to prevent a reoccurrence. A problem with the battery somewhere down the road could result in another shut down scenario. In hot, humid, South Florida, car batteries have notoriously short lives.
I consider this problem to be extremely dangerous and worrisome. If this occurs in some backwater, late at night, or on a limited access highway, the consequences could be dire.
Life is full of things to worry about. If you are worried about the car breaking down again, then carry some survival stuff with you and maybe even a firearm. If the car breaks down at night, at least you ain't gonna freeze in South Florida.
Make sure you have cell phone service that works in rural areas and always carry two cell phones in case one breaks down.
Cycle it many times.
There may be something else wrong, but ya got to start somewhere, and this would be a good start.
Mrbill