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I called my dealership and they told me that just to determine what is the problem, what I already could see, I have to pay $95.00 + tax. I told them that this is too expensive for something so obvious, so they told me to come to service and they will look that for free and give me options what I can do. Next day I went there and they even didn’t try to look my car. Instead the service advisor told me that because car is out of warranty I have to pay $1200 to get whole unit replaced. It looked to me they already had these cases and they knew what was wrong.
Because that option sounded to me very stupid (paying $1200 just to get light), I called customer service for Honda Canada. After listening to complain she immediately told me that I have 2 options. To pay $1200 for replacement or to get unit refurbished for $300. Again she sounded like somebody who already came across the problem. I told her that I found on different forums tons of people with the same car and the same problem, and that it was obvious that something is wrong in the design of that unit when it requires replacement/refurbishing of the whole unit just because of light. That would be like selling $300 lamp that has to be replaced when bulb gets broken. So she took VIN of my car but she told me that she could not open the case until proper diagnostic is done on my car. She called the service and they told her they did visual check, but for diagnostic I have to go back and pay $95.00 + tax. After that Honda may pay me part of repair to get that light back.
I am very disappointed with my experience with both Honda customer service and Honda dealership. They all know there is a system problem with the radio unit in the car but instead to fix it, they choose to make profit of it. I understand their motivation to act like that but on the end they will just loose one customer and I hope I can persuade somebody else not to buy their car.
:mad:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2517
If the bore is badly pitted, a honing won't work, you'll have to have a bronze insert machined into the cylinder after it is bored out and re-sized.
Why not take the car to your dealer, leave it overnight? It sure sound fishy to me, owning the same car.
If your car have engine knock it would sound more pronounced in high speed when you try to accelerate. Then I'd say you use bad gas, but what you describe here does not sound something that should be ignored on a brand new car, and you may be DAMAGING your engine by waiting.
Given her financial situation, snow tires are probably out of her affordability range.
Other than that, if she is not used to driving in snow, she is going to have to learn how. Drive and brake like you have a raw egg under your foot that you do not want to crack. Do all things gradually-no sharp steering or braking actions. On snow packed or icy roads, slow waaay down. Maybe find an internet site that lists tips for winter ice and snow driving.
Thanks
1. Open glove box and empty the contents.
2. Unhook the damper on the right side of the glove box.
3. Squeeze together the side walls of the compartment to let the door go past the stops. The glove box will now pivot down and hang vertically by the two bottom hinges.
4. Remove the filter housing--I think there is a clip on either side. It looks like a plastic panel about 2 inches tall x 10 inches wide.
5. Remove the paper filter from the plastic housing.
The filter can be bought at the dealer's parts counter. Good luck.
We notice GM on the brink of collapse.... We notice Ford losing money and clients....
See, we -- the people -- are not stupid. Those who sit in their fancy offices in Detroit are the idiots. Idiots to a level of being CRIMINALS.
'Cause thanks to them, THOUSANDS of American workers are and will lose their jobs.
Corporate America pays hefty salaries and bonuses to CEOs, many of whom are opportunist, incompetent, and greedy. They get their huge bonuses even if their companies are losing (or not making enough) money. Pity are those naive investors who buy stocks and support the lavish lifestyle of these greedy animals.
ramida
Sorry, isellhondas, I couldn't resist.
Beyond that, no atter what one poster thinks, OR WISHES, the numbers are out there for anyone to see... Asian car makers are constantly on the rise, and American are constantly on the decline.
As Americans, it's not something to be happy about. It's actually SAD.
But it's a fact.
Now what about American car makers? Both of my vehicles were make in the USA. One is called a Honda Accord and the other is called a Ford Explorer. Ford and GM are American corporations who make vehicles and vehicle parts all over the world. Honda & Toyota are Japanese corporations that make vehicle and vehicle parts all over the world. The fact the Toyota and Honda are beating the pants off of GM & Ford involves complicated issues involving costs of pensions, healthcare and product design and quality. You can’t dismiss the issues with name calling. I believe we all want GM & Ford to do well because we all win when that happens. The Japanese auto makers are doing a better job producing vehicles that we want to purchase, so we purchase them. Their vehicles are not perfect, but their rate of failure is lower. I brought my Explorer back to Ford at least 8 times to correct problems and have recalls worked on. I had to bring my Honda Accord back to the dealer three times for some minor problems. I am pleased with both of my cars, but why do I feel better about my Honda? We have to learn to compete in a new, global economy. We will do that with our creativity and hard work. Of course, while doing that we will still use these forums to discuss issues involving our cars!
My questions are:
1) Can the shop uses any 5W-20 motor oil, or it must be a particular brand?
2) Should I change the oil filer for every oil change? if so, what is the brand that Honda uses?
Thank you,
Change the oil filter every oil change. It's cheap. No point in not doing it.
Off-topic posts *WILL* be removed in the future so as to keep the forum's direction as intended.
There are a LOT of discussion on global economy, Big Three, Consumer Reports, etc. in the News & Views Message Board. Please join those if you wish.
Thanks!
MrShiftright
Host
I agree 100% with altair4's response. As to oil filters, Honda dealers will install a "Honda" brand oil filter. Most of the Honda dealers in the U.S. and Canada use a Canadian made filter from a plant operated by FRAM and distributed under the "Honda" brand name. These filters are NOT identical in appearance to their FRAM-branded equivalents on sale at parts stores and mass merchandisers, but they do share similar construction. (You really have to hunt to find the much better made Japanese "Honda" filters anymore, though some dealers will order them for you.) There's nothing wrong with the Canadian "FRAM" Honda filters, but you can get better quality for much less $$$$$ with the "Purolator" brand equivalent. As to oil brand from Honda dealers, their parts departments stock and will sell you "Honda" brand motor oil in quart bottles. ExxonMobil is the actual blender and bottler of "Honda" motor oil. If you were to buy Mobil Clean 5000 or Exxon Superflow in 5W-20 viscosity, you'd be getting the same oil but in different quart bottles. (As it is, with Honda as the middleman, guess what that translates to in the final dealer pricing markup?...) That's not necessarily what dealers put into your car in the service bays, though. Most dealers of any size have bulk drums delivered by a jobber. It's metered out by pump to your car through a nozzle - cheaper for the dealer (not you), less mess, and no plastic bottles to contend with for proper environmental disposal. (Empty bulk drums are cleaned and refilled and the jobber handles the return at the time he delivers another full drum.) The oil inside the drum will be one of a number of name-brands, so is very good quality. (When a car dealer buys wholesale by the 40 gallon drum, the actual price per quart only works out to around 50 cents. You, of course, will be charged around $2.50/quart. Ask me what I think of car dealerships.) If you buy your own oil, as long as it states it meets API "SM" and ILSAC "GF-4", and is 5W-20 viscosity, you're good to go for warranty purposes regardless of brand or price paid. Just keep your receipts and a hand-written log if you do your own oil and filter changes. Given that 50% of your daily driving is city, I'd be more inclined to change oil and filter every 5,000 miles. (Forgive my freely admitted skepticism, but I'd find it a very novel experience, indeed, to be able to average 40 mph through city environs - legally, anyway. )
I have two nearby Toyota dealerships. One uses Kendall, the other uses Valvoline.
So much for servicing with 'genuine' Honda and Toyota products. It's odd that the service department would use something different than what their parts shops stock, which is only the company labeled product. Go figure.
Wow! Thank a lot. You're right, there is no ground for 40mph. If I change oil filter every 5000 miles, I can use any FRAM filter that the shop has.
Just wondering whether it was you telling the mechanic what's wrong and needs to be replaces (based on my suggestion) or if he came up with that solution.
I was wondering if you resolved the problem, as I had a similar experience with my son's '91 Accord today, and found your post on this forum. We adjusted the valves, replaced the cap, rotor, and plugs. Now, there is no spark. We have 12V to the coil. Earlier symptom he described was that when he hit the brakes, all the lights went dim. Also, the car has been hard starting, or only firing while the starter is engaged. I'm wondering if bringing the car into a warm shop amplified a short somewhere...? Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Funked out in SD,
Hondan
What should I use to lub the weather stripping and window run channel?
They're kind of hardened now in the cold weather. The plastic and rubber Honda used is getting cheaper and cheaper. I'm hoping lubricating these plus foam tape in the run channel will ease the rattling.
Thanks.
TTB
Since most members want to read posts related to their own generations of vehicles, and since the eighth generation Accords are scheduled to be the 2008's, I suggest that this be split into two forums, namely:
Honda Accord: 1976 though 1997: Owner Problems & Solutions
and
Honda Accord: 1998 through 2007: Owner Problems & Solutions
Shifty the Host
Honda Accord: 1976 through 2002: Owner Problems & Solutions
Honda Accord: 2003 through 2006: Owner Problems & Solutions
ramida
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I didn't feel the gas pedal vibration today.
I did some search on this forum and found similar occurences! I wonder if this is a defect that needs to be addressed by Honda.
Frustrated, ramida
P.S. In a previous post, I mentioned that I had problem merging in a short-ramp fast freeway with this automatic transmission. After reading the manual, I found out that with the D3, 2 and 1 gears, I can drive this car as if I have a stick shift! Now I have no problem merging when I start with the D3 gear and then at the right moment shift to D. Awesome! On slow sharp turn with uphill drive, the "2" gear is my friend! I don't feel any lugging anymore, even if I carry a full load (family of 5!).