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Comments
Good luck with the door alignment.
Hondas like all cars will have a certain level of "defects". My belief is that a lot of people blow these minor things out of proportion because it is a Honda. The expectation is that anything less than perfect is a defect. I wonder how many of these "defects" would be ignored or accepted if the car in question was a GM, Chrysler or Pontiac.
Good luck with the door and hope you enjoy your new car.
Basically, a little vibration is normal, and when you put it into neutral you should get virtually no vibration, since there is less load on the engine when the transmission is in neutral.
My first thought was I would hate to be dealing with this person in, ummm, person...
(Sorry, the link was too long to post. But the article is on the front page under the Car News section)
"Vehicles covered by the extended warranty include:
2000 - 2001 Honda Accord, Odyssey and Prelude
2000 - 2002 and some 2003 Acura 3.2 TL
2001 - 2002 and some 2003 Acura 3.2 CL
While only two percent of these vehicles have experienced these transmission problems, American Honda will provide extended transmission warranties on all potentially affected vehicles. "Our priorities are making sure our customers are taken care of and reassured they can continue to depend on their Honda or Acura automobile for a long time to come," said Tom Elliott, executive vice president for American Honda."
Still no word on if this means only V6 transmissions, though. Both of the articles quoted Honda as saying any 2000 - 2001 automatic transmission Accord, Odyssey, and Prelude owner. I imagine that details about whether it transfers or is limited to original buyers, etc. will come out in the letter.
It is interesting that AutoWeek's version stated that "There is usually plenty of warning to the driver that the transmission is not operating properly, such as slow or erratic shifting, giving them ample time to take the vehicle in for service."
They finally addressed the relative safety question in my mind - hurray!!!!
Now no valve noise. Drove me nuts for 4 years-so if u got a noisy set of valves on a I4-be real careful when setting the clearance-the 97 valve adjustment has less access than the older ones-or maybe my [non-permissible content removed] is getting older. Maybe both. Sorry to have caused any concern over this-now gotta call a couple of dealer service guys and say-U were right it is just valve adjustment
People do you have any idea how you can overheat a car engine in 10minutes of downtown rush hour driving?
I followed the maint. schedule and got the oil changed just 2 months ago at 35K.
Do any of you insiders know if this is the same tranny as the 2000? I do have a late model 99.. Do you know how to decode the date of manufacture?
I'm continuing the battle with Honda and as of today they are offering to pay all BUT the labor for install. Also Honda is saying offer is take it or leave by end of day Monday... Something I find very interesting in view of today's announcement. Also, I do not have a detailed repair cost in writing showing the labor portion. It is in the mail.
Today's status---Friday afternoon, no general manager at dealership to ok picking up the tab for labor..He won't be in till Monday..Now seems like Saturday is a big buying day in September so that's hard to believe.. Given the pressure from Honda USA to accept or walk away on Monday, looks like they can stall for awhile.
So gald to see HONDA stepping up to the plate on the automatic transmission.
THe bad news is this-it is very difficult to get a head milled correctly. If u try to salvage the head-make certain the shop that does the milling really has experience at this.
To make certain you have a blown head gasket-do this. With the engine cold-take off the radiator cap and start the engine. Oh-it has to be full of coolant-if the coolant starts jumping out of the neck of the radiator cap-shut her down-it does that because exhaust gas is getting intot he coolant and that means a blown head gasket. You can pull the plugs and the one with the red or green crap on it is where the lead is.
The moral to the story is-get it off the road asap and shut it down when the temp gauge pegs or u start smelling coolant.
Another question: Are the front brake pads thicker than the rears to begin with? I checked my pads and the rears have about 2/3 the pad thickness that the fronts have.
Thanks again!
Tom
I wouldn't worry unless you feel a pulsing pedal under light braking - that would be a sign of rotor warp... but I honestly think that is unlikely.
And no, you are not alone - I've been driving for 40+ years, and have managed this stunt at least twice that I can remember...always for short distances, but one always feel like an idiot...
I haven't looked at the coupe closely to see if it has the same potential problem. The coupe has a smaller grill opening so maybe there is less of a problem there.
For the Honda coolant, do i have to add water to it before putting it to use?
Thanks
For the original Honda coolant you do need to add water 50/50 mix.
Check the container itself as it should say on it.
Auburn63, I would really like to hear your response regarding this question because you have been very helpful to me on past issues and concerns.
As for engine oil and anti-freeze mixing, that is a sign of a cracked head allowing anti-freeze into the engine and oil into the cooling system - not a good combination.
The mechanic says the engine is fine??
Experts - your opinions?
So far the issue has no real pattern and can happen to any automatic trans in the 6cyl as well as the 4 cyl,Accord and Odyssey from 00-02. The warranty on most if not all of these has been extended. Try not to let it worry you, we work on many of this range of vehicles that have many miles on them and have not had any problems so I wouldnt loose any sleep over it. Good luck
iwannaknow,
If oil had mixed in with the coolant then the motor probably got real hot and at least temporaraly distorted if all is fine now. This is the sign of a bad gasket or warped head but it could have just blown by with heat distorion.I would do a good flush of the coolant system refill with the proper mixture and see if it runs hot and over time see if the oil mix returns. Good luck
The same thing happened to my 94 LX also, and I couldn't fixed it even after changing the rotors.
Is this a Honda problem? and if the machining doesn't help, should I get a new Honda Rotors?
Anyone have information on why these other parts would need to be replaced?
94 Accord. When I put the fan on, it blows warm air even though its moderately cool outside. (Recirc OFF, dial on blue).
This means that even in moderately cool conditions, I have to use the A/C on the highway. Which on an I4, really saps power.
Does this mean that my coolant needs changing? Car was bought used.
While you are checking, if you don't know the age of the coolant, it would be wise to replace it for reasons of corrosion control as well as freeze and boilover protection.
If it is not that then I think you were refering to your freon in the ac system being low instead of the coolant. Which could be the case but so could a bad hot water valve, mis adjusted cable for the valve or a few other posibilities. But I would check that knob first,,good luck
I have a new Honda 2003 4 cyl automatic EX-L and it has the horrible rotten egg smell that a small percentage of cars have (all makes). I have tried different grades of gas and it does not matter. I will get the converter changed but does anyone else know of this problem and what causes it? It is not a new car smell; it smells like noxious gas (sulphur) and really it taking all the fun out of an otherwise perfect car!
Opinions?
Jerry
I am planning to buy a used '97 LX with automatic transmission. I did test drive two cars and was very pleased with both; except for the fact that neither seemed to shift gears smoothly. I always got a jerky feeling when the shifted from one gear to the next. This seemed to reduce at the final shift to top gear. Is this normal? I have driven my friend's '98 LX (auto trans) and there is no such problem. no problem with my '98 Civic EX (auto trans) either. Is this peculiar to pre-'98 Hondas?
Is there anything else I might need to check when I test-drive?
Thanks in advance for your help-- Shetts
Virtually every bolt/nut on the exhaust pipe was rusted and frozen. Don't dink with trying to cut all those bolts while on the vehicle. Disconnect the cat sensor-easy to do and then just cut or if luck, unscrew the connection in front of the cat and take the whole system from the cat on back out. This way you can easily cut the frozen nuts off the connection at the rear of the cat. These are studs pushed into the body of the cat so you must drill out the studs-punch out the remaining part and attach with zinc coated nuts/bolts the exhaust pipe to the back of the cat.
The guys at Honda service told me they have been told not to modify a cat in any way and if they get one that has the studs frozen with rust-u buy a new cat.
If you take the above approach-it is a 2 hour job-can take all day if you do it the hard way. Oh there is also some confusion in the Honda Parts System about which pipes are supposed to go on this vehicle-luckily I had my Helm Honda Shop manual and the parts slooths at my local Honda dealer were able to figure out which one was designed for my vehicle.
If u buy your replacement exhaust system from Honda-they guarantee them for as long as u own the vehicle.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2001 Accord EX V6 with 18,000 miles and has been a great car to own and drive.
The only problem I have with the car is that I can feel the brakes "grab" lightly when I just begin to brake when approaching a traffic light or stop sign. It's not anything that creates a dangerous situation, just more annoying than anything else. Also, it does not happen every time so its impossible to duplicate when the mechanic drives the car.
Has anyone experienced this and if so, what corrected the problem?
Thanks for the advice.
HONDA TRANSMISSION WARRANTIES
American Honda Motor CO, inc. is extending warranties on approximately 1.2 million Honda and Acura models with automatic transmisions for 7 years or 100 000 miles.
Models covered includes : 2000 to 2001 accord, odyssey and prelude; 2000-2002 and some 2003 acura 3.2 TL; and 2001 to 2003 and some 2003 acura 3.2 CL.
The scenario: On a nice day, I may eat lunch in my car instead of at my desk at work. I get in my car and have to turn the car on to put down the windows. [Then I turn the car off]. After more than 10 minutes has passed, maybe I see a spider or get cold or something, so I turn the car on to put the windows up.[Then I turn the car off] Then after more than 10 minutes pass, I get hot, so I want to put the windows down again. I try to turn the car on, but it won't start. I've had to get my car jumped 3-4 times in the past 6 months. This starting problem has also happened when I'm running errands.
The overly-obvious answer is that I may need a new battery, but I'm not so sure
- On several occasions when this happens, my car will start 4 or 5 hours later.
- Sometimes, moving from neutral to first gear (I have a manual) and then turning the ignition starts the car
- In May, I went to the mechanic and they told me my battery was weak and I should get a new one BUT In July, I went back to the same mechanic, and paid $70 bucks for a power test or starter test or something where they test the battery, alternator and stuff, I was told that everything (including the battery) was A-OK. [I had my starter replaced at the time b/c it was throwing sparks whenever I turned the ignition]
I'm not sure what the problem is, but with winter coming, I need to do something soon. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks