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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Hate to break it to you, but there's a number of cars out there that the steering wheel is not exactly parallel with the dash. It's something that most people don't notice or get accustomed to quickly.

    Good luck with the door alignment.
  • maple49maple49 Member Posts: 66
    I think the only place you didn't post this message was the Ford pickup forum. The steering wheel is designed that way. The dealer is working with you on the door problem. What else do you expect? I agree that you need to fully examine the Accord, Camry, Lexus, BMW, MB or any car before you sign the dotted line.

    Hondas like all cars will have a certain level of "defects". My belief is that a lot of people blow these minor things out of proportion because it is a Honda. The expectation is that anything less than perfect is a defect. I wonder how many of these "defects" would be ignored or accepted if the car in question was a GM, Chrysler or Pontiac.

    Good luck with the door and hope you enjoy your new car.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    I also agree with the above comments. Something is draining your battery power. In addition the the trunk light, several other possible points may include: radio (connection cables), door indicator switches, interior lighting cables, electric window controller, alarm system, etc. Allowing the dealership to trace the problem overnight is probably the best method of attacking this problem. If I am correctly remembering what one of my dealership's mechcanics told me, the dealership has a computer program which can help to diagnose such shorts / open circuits. You may, however, have to push them to do this.
  • fossilboyfossilboy Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a Honda Accord EX... 115 miles on it. Love the car. I've been driving used cars for 20 years so I apologize if this is a dumb question: I notice the car vibrates a bit more when I'm stopped at a traffic light (while still in drive). If I put it in neutral, the vibration goes away. The vibration is not really that noticeable, and I may just be paranoid. Just wondering if it's something that's common with a new car still being broken in.
  • maxhonda99maxhonda99 Member Posts: 1,289
    All cars have slight vibrations at idle. And if it's a 4-cylinder it will be a bit more because 4-cylinder motors are generally not as refined as 6-cylinder and up motors.

    Basically, a little vibration is normal, and when you put it into neutral you should get virtually no vibration, since there is less load on the engine when the transmission is in neutral.
  • fossilboyfossilboy Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot, maxhonda99. Really appreciate the answer.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2002-09-20-honda-warranty_x.htm
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You cracked me up with the Ford pickup forum column!

    My first thought was I would hate to be dealing with this person in, ummm, person...
  • ironmanterpironmanterp Member Posts: 57
    Here is an excerpt from an AutoWeek article: http://www.autoweek.com

    (Sorry, the link was too long to post. But the article is on the front page under the Car News section)


    "Vehicles covered by the extended warranty include:


    2000 - 2001 Honda Accord, Odyssey and Prelude


    2000 - 2002 and some 2003 Acura 3.2 TL


    2001 - 2002 and some 2003 Acura 3.2 CL


    While only two percent of these vehicles have experienced these transmission problems, American Honda will provide extended transmission warranties on all potentially affected vehicles. "Our priorities are making sure our customers are taken care of and reassured they can continue to depend on their Honda or Acura automobile for a long time to come," said Tom Elliott, executive vice president for American Honda."


    Still no word on if this means only V6 transmissions, though. Both of the articles quoted Honda as saying any 2000 - 2001 automatic transmission Accord, Odyssey, and Prelude owner. I imagine that details about whether it transfers or is limited to original buyers, etc. will come out in the letter.


    It is interesting that AutoWeek's version stated that "There is usually plenty of warning to the driver that the transmission is not operating properly, such as slow or erratic shifting, giving them ample time to take the vehicle in for service."


    They finally addressed the relative safety question in my mind - hurray!!!!

  • ghomazghomaz Member Posts: 68
    Does anybody know what happens if one already has a 7yr/100K extended warranty? Will Honda reimburse the "transmission portion" of the price paid for this warranty?
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Well the idiot (that's me) with the feeler gauge screwed up when adjusting the intake valves on my 97 accord. The #2 and 3 intake valves are really close to the stud used to hold down the valve cover-assumed I was getting the feeler gauge flat enough to get a good reading-well this time since I have several of them-just bent one of the .010 a bit to fit into the small space. Guess what it was loose.

    Now no valve noise. Drove me nuts for 4 years-so if u got a noisy set of valves on a I4-be real careful when setting the clearance-the 97 valve adjustment has less access than the older ones-or maybe my [non-permissible content removed] is getting older. Maybe both. Sorry to have caused any concern over this-now gotta call a couple of dealer service guys and say-U were right it is just valve adjustment
  • iwannaknowiwannaknow Member Posts: 5
    My 98 accord's radiator blew up on my way back home at a stop light. There is a 4in. long split on the top. A mechanic says somehow engine's got overheated possilbly resulting in a crack of engine block or a damage on the head gasket.. so and so.
    People do you have any idea how you can overheat a car engine in 10minutes of downtown rush hour driving?
    I followed the maint. schedule and got the oil changed just 2 months ago at 35K.
  • gc1492gc1492 Member Posts: 6
    What about the 1999 Accords with transmission problems.
    Do any of you insiders know if this is the same tranny as the 2000? I do have a late model 99.. Do you know how to decode the date of manufacture?

    I'm continuing the battle with Honda and as of today they are offering to pay all BUT the labor for install. Also Honda is saying offer is take it or leave by end of day Monday... Something I find very interesting in view of today's announcement. Also, I do not have a detailed repair cost in writing showing the labor portion. It is in the mail.
    Today's status---Friday afternoon, no general manager at dealership to ok picking up the tab for labor..He won't be in till Monday..Now seems like Saturday is a big buying day in September so that's hard to believe.. Given the pressure from Honda USA to accept or walk away on Monday, looks like they can stall for awhile.

    So gald to see HONDA stepping up to the plate on the automatic transmission.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    When you loose coolant in an engine it will very quickly overheat-those engines with aluminum heads are particularly prone to get a warped head and then blow a head gasket. Don't know the exact amount of time it takes to warp a head but I would guess you have no more than 4 or 5 minutes of driving before the head is toast.

    THe bad news is this-it is very difficult to get a head milled correctly. If u try to salvage the head-make certain the shop that does the milling really has experience at this.

    To make certain you have a blown head gasket-do this. With the engine cold-take off the radiator cap and start the engine. Oh-it has to be full of coolant-if the coolant starts jumping out of the neck of the radiator cap-shut her down-it does that because exhaust gas is getting intot he coolant and that means a blown head gasket. You can pull the plugs and the one with the red or green crap on it is where the lead is.

    The moral to the story is-get it off the road asap and shut it down when the temp gauge pegs or u start smelling coolant.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Open the driver's door and read the manufacuring date from the white placard on the edge of the door.
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    The brakes seem fine but it bothers me that I took some life off of the rear brakes. My Legend had a seperate system for the parking brake that had shoes that could be replaced. My biggest fear is that I may have slightly warped the rear rotors. Oh well, I'm now so paranoid that I check twice to make sure that I've released the parking brake before I start driving.

    Another question: Are the front brake pads thicker than the rears to begin with? I checked my pads and the rears have about 2/3 the pad thickness that the fronts have.

    Thanks again!

    Tom
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...as they do 80% of the work on a FWD car.

    I wouldn't worry unless you feel a pulsing pedal under light braking - that would be a sign of rotor warp... but I honestly think that is unlikely.

    And no, you are not alone - I've been driving for 40+ years, and have managed this stunt at least twice that I can remember...always for short distances, but one always feel like an idiot...
  • iwannaknowiwannaknow Member Posts: 5
    for the answer.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    I wonder if this is potentially a security problem on the '98 - '02 Accord sedan. The hood latch mechanism, as well the safety release, are clearly visible AND ACCESSIBLE, through the slots in the front grill. I haven't tried it, but to me it would seem very easy for someone to stick a small tool such as a screwdriver through the grill and pry the hood latch to release the hood. After that the horn can be disconnected in a split second. Then the thieve can have all day to open the doors or trunk. Check it out and see for yourselves.

    I haven't looked at the coupe closely to see if it has the same potential problem. The coupe has a smaller grill opening so maybe there is less of a problem there.
  • dnguyen65dnguyen65 Member Posts: 26
    Hello,

    For the Honda coolant, do i have to add water to it before putting it to use?

    Thanks
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    For the new Type II coolant fluid you do not add water as it is already cut with distilled.

    For the original Honda coolant you do need to add water 50/50 mix.

    Check the container itself as it should say on it.
  • snuke59snuke59 Member Posts: 29
    It has been quite some time since I've visited this discussion so please excuse me if this question has already been answered. I have 19,000 miles on my 2000, V-6 Accord and have not experienced any transmission problems, thus far. Are the problems regarding the transmissions that I have heard so much about, problems that occur to selected models built after a specific time period or are all 2000, V-6's susceptible of having transmission problems?

    Auburn63, I would really like to hear your response regarding this question because you have been very helpful to me on past issues and concerns.
  • iwannaknowiwannaknow Member Posts: 5
    The radiator on my 98 Honda blew up, now the machanic says engine's OK, but 1 gallon of pure water came out from the radiator. Can this ever be a reasonable answer to the blowing up of radiator? Even the engine oil and anti freeze got mixed and popped out of the radiator.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    If pure water was in the radiator, that could cause a failure of the radiator as today's coolants use special chemicals to prevent rusting of the cooling system. Pure water would probably wreak havoc.

    As for engine oil and anti-freeze mixing, that is a sign of a cracked head allowing anti-freeze into the engine and oil into the cooling system - not a good combination.

    The mechanic says the engine is fine??

    Experts - your opinions?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    snuke59,
    So far the issue has no real pattern and can happen to any automatic trans in the 6cyl as well as the 4 cyl,Accord and Odyssey from 00-02. The warranty on most if not all of these has been extended. Try not to let it worry you, we work on many of this range of vehicles that have many miles on them and have not had any problems so I wouldnt loose any sleep over it. Good luck

    iwannaknow,
    If oil had mixed in with the coolant then the motor probably got real hot and at least temporaraly distorted if all is fine now. This is the sign of a bad gasket or warped head but it could have just blown by with heat distorion.I would do a good flush of the coolant system refill with the proper mixture and see if it runs hot and over time see if the oil mix returns. Good luck
  • esswebessweb Member Posts: 51
    After 60K mile service on my 98 LX Accord, I noticed pulsation when braking at high speed(60 to 75 miles down to 40), and the pulsation is less when the speed is reduced. I went to Midas and they machine the rotor. That was in March. The problem never go away, and the break work fine other than the pulsation I am feeling. yesterday I went check again, and seems both pad are still like new, and there is no uneven wear out of them. I am spending another $65 to machine the motors yet again, and I will see if that is really the problem.

    The same thing happened to my 94 LX also, and I couldn't fixed it even after changing the rotors.

    Is this a Honda problem? and if the machining doesn't help, should I get a new Honda Rotors?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...and be done with it. And stay away from these kinds of brake shops...the money you save is hardly worth it, as you can readily see.
  • iwannaknowiwannaknow Member Posts: 5
  • gblakegblake Member Posts: 2
    Dealer finally received the 0xy. sensor. Informed me that they would also replace the computer and all four injectors. I must have asked the question a dozen times, but still was not able to get a good answer as to why these critical parts needed to be replaced. Svc. Mgr. mentioned that I would be getting better gas mileage. Hoping it's better than the 17.5mpg average before.

    Anyone have information on why these other parts would need to be replaced?
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    Check engine light coming on is not uncommon. Replacing O2 sensors is also not uncommon. But I wonder why the whole computer has to be replaced?
  • mack20mack20 Member Posts: 40
    Hi,

    94 Accord. When I put the fan on, it blows warm air even though its moderately cool outside. (Recirc OFF, dial on blue).

    This means that even in moderately cool conditions, I have to use the A/C on the highway. Which on an I4, really saps power.

    Does this mean that my coolant needs changing? Car was bought used.
  • snuke59snuke59 Member Posts: 29
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Warm air from the ventilation system with the heater control settings you described are not related to the service life of the coolant. The valve for the hot water which flows to the heater may be defective. Or the control cable from the control lever to the valve could be out of adjustment, disconnected, or broken.

    While you are checking, if you don't know the age of the coolant, it would be wise to replace it for reasons of corrosion control as well as freeze and boilover protection.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    1st pull the heater control knob off the selector as they tend to break and cause the air mix to be incorrect.

    If it is not that then I think you were refering to your freon in the ac system being low instead of the coolant. Which could be the case but so could a bad hot water valve, mis adjusted cable for the valve or a few other posibilities. But I would check that knob first,,good luck
  • jar1945jar1945 Member Posts: 22
    Hi-

    I have a new Honda 2003 4 cyl automatic EX-L and it has the horrible rotten egg smell that a small percentage of cars have (all makes). I have tried different grades of gas and it does not matter. I will get the converter changed but does anyone else know of this problem and what causes it? It is not a new car smell; it smells like noxious gas (sulphur) and really it taking all the fun out of an otherwise perfect car!

    Opinions?

    Jerry
  • shettsshetts Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I am planning to buy a used '97 LX with automatic transmission. I did test drive two cars and was very pleased with both; except for the fact that neither seemed to shift gears smoothly. I always got a jerky feeling when the shifted from one gear to the next. This seemed to reduce at the final shift to top gear. Is this normal? I have driven my friend's '98 LX (auto trans) and there is no such problem. no problem with my '98 Civic EX (auto trans) either. Is this peculiar to pre-'98 Hondas?

    Is there anything else I might need to check when I test-drive?

    Thanks in advance for your help-- Shetts
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    I received a Recall Notice for replacement of the ignition switch wiring. If I "recall" the recall notice, it covers Honda Accords (all models) from '97-'99, but I'll check. Does anyone know anything about this issure?
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Replaced everything from the cat on back. Took several hours-here is how to do it much faster.

    Virtually every bolt/nut on the exhaust pipe was rusted and frozen. Don't dink with trying to cut all those bolts while on the vehicle. Disconnect the cat sensor-easy to do and then just cut or if luck, unscrew the connection in front of the cat and take the whole system from the cat on back out. This way you can easily cut the frozen nuts off the connection at the rear of the cat. These are studs pushed into the body of the cat so you must drill out the studs-punch out the remaining part and attach with zinc coated nuts/bolts the exhaust pipe to the back of the cat.

    The guys at Honda service told me they have been told not to modify a cat in any way and if they get one that has the studs frozen with rust-u buy a new cat.

    If you take the above approach-it is a 2 hour job-can take all day if you do it the hard way. Oh there is also some confusion in the Honda Parts System about which pipes are supposed to go on this vehicle-luckily I had my Helm Honda Shop manual and the parts slooths at my local Honda dealer were able to figure out which one was designed for my vehicle.

    If u buy your replacement exhaust system from Honda-they guarantee them for as long as u own the vehicle.
  • jy16jy16 Member Posts: 1
    Perhaps this problem has already been covered, but my 2000 Accord Ex-v6 has almost 30k. Never a problem until now. About 500 miles ago, I started having a brake squeak off an on, especially when turning right. Squeak is worse in reverse. When I took it in for 30K service, they said the pads were fine and that the squeak was probably being caused because they no longer use asbestos in the pads so it's metal on metal. The squeak is getting worse. If I wait to get the pads replaced, is there ANYTHING that will cut down on the squeak?

    Thanks in advance.
  • mwcarlsomwcarlso Member Posts: 85
    I have a 93 Accord EX Auto and it jerks when shifting gears also. I have 151,000 miles on it and the original tranny so it can't hurt it too much. My sister used to have a 96 Accord EX auto and it usually only jerked when shifting into all gears except 4th. She had almost 100,000 miles on it when she sold it. My mom's 2000 Odyssey seems to shift alot smoother. If you want a relatively smooth trans then I would get a 98+ Accord, because the older ones are rather jerky. If you plan to buy a 90-97 Accord make sure the balancer shaft oil seal retaincer update has been done along with the timing belt, because you will run the risk of loosing all the oil if the seal pops out. Hope this helps.
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    Hi Everyone!

    I have a 2001 Accord EX V6 with 18,000 miles and has been a great car to own and drive.

    The only problem I have with the car is that I can feel the brakes "grab" lightly when I just begin to brake when approaching a traffic light or stop sign. It's not anything that creates a dangerous situation, just more annoying than anything else. Also, it does not happen every time so its impossible to duplicate when the mechanic drives the car.

    Has anyone experienced this and if so, what corrected the problem?

    Thanks for the advice.
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    You've given some much needed peace of mind. Thank you for your knowledgeable responses, they've been very helpful.
  • zjbzjb Member Posts: 1
    Today I found this in local newspaper (The Hartford Courant, CT)

    HONDA TRANSMISSION WARRANTIES

    American Honda Motor CO, inc. is extending warranties on approximately 1.2 million Honda and Acura models with automatic transmisions for 7 years or 100 000 miles.
    Models covered includes : 2000 to 2001 accord, odyssey and prelude; 2000-2002 and some 2003 acura 3.2 TL; and 2001 to 2003 and some 2003 acura 3.2 CL.
  • shettsshetts Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your reply. I have decided to go for a '98 Accord instead because of the jerky '97 transmission. Seems like the post-2000s have their own set of problems with transmissions. So 98-99 may be a good window?
  • shettsshetts Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem of "brakes grabbing" infrequently on my '98 civic EX. I noticed it within a few days of buying the car, but could never reproduce it for the dealer. I feel it even after a recent change of all brake pads. I have just learnt to live with it, since it is very infrequent and not very serious. Maybe somebody else has a good technical explanation. It may help to know that this usually happens while driving down a slope.
  • maxhonda99maxhonda99 Member Posts: 1,289
    Hi, Has anyone received a letter yet from Honda for the extended 7yr/100K transmission warranty?
  • apatiaapatia Member Posts: 36
    I have a '90 accord (that I need to nurse along until December or January when I'll get another car) and I have problems starting it sometimes.

    The scenario: On a nice day, I may eat lunch in my car instead of at my desk at work. I get in my car and have to turn the car on to put down the windows. [Then I turn the car off]. After more than 10 minutes has passed, maybe I see a spider or get cold or something, so I turn the car on to put the windows up.[Then I turn the car off] Then after more than 10 minutes pass, I get hot, so I want to put the windows down again. I try to turn the car on, but it won't start. I've had to get my car jumped 3-4 times in the past 6 months. This starting problem has also happened when I'm running errands.

    The overly-obvious answer is that I may need a new battery, but I'm not so sure
    - On several occasions when this happens, my car will start 4 or 5 hours later.
    - Sometimes, moving from neutral to first gear (I have a manual) and then turning the ignition starts the car
    - In May, I went to the mechanic and they told me my battery was weak and I should get a new one BUT In July, I went back to the same mechanic, and paid $70 bucks for a power test or starter test or something where they test the battery, alternator and stuff, I was told that everything (including the battery) was A-OK. [I had my starter replaced at the time b/c it was throwing sparks whenever I turned the ignition]

    I'm not sure what the problem is, but with winter coming, I need to do something soon. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks
  • asm0721asm0721 Member Posts: 13
    I just purchased a 2003 V6 Accord on Thursday...Love the car...handles great...While driving about 20 minutes from my house, my wife notices water accumulating on the passenger side floor....so I stopped at a car wash and vacuumed it out....while doing that I pulled the carpet back some to notice that water was POURING into the vehicle!! Needless to say I was pissed....The car does not even have 80 miles on it...I did not expect these type of problems with an Accord...Needless to say I called my dealer very upset....They wanted me to drive the vehicle in and I refused it...I did not want it to get any more wet...I made them bring me a loaner car on a flat bed truck and take mine to the dealer...They will not have a chance to look at it until Monday...I am giving the dealer one shot to fix it...If they can't I will be going straight to the top at Honda....If anybody else has an similar quality issues with a 2003 Accord, please let me know.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...is completely plugged or misrouted. Not common, but then, with a new model, anything is possible in the first few weeks of production...
  • asm0721asm0721 Member Posts: 13
    I had a 96 Accord that did the same thing...But the 03 we were not even running the air...I think it is the windshield...Might not be sealed properly...We were sitting out side with the car off and it was raining out...and water was pouring in even then...Any ideas?
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