My Audi stalls at every stop sign

Comments

• bollinger Member Posts: 207

  November 2000

  Your choke is taking too long to come off, or the idle adjuster is messed up.
  
  That's my guess. Look at the items which are connected to the throttle linkage near the carb/throttle body (whichever you have). One of these will be designed to change the position of the throttle plates (usually to open them a little, I think). This item is the choke and is supposed to stop doing so when it gets warmed up. Yours is messed up to not move fast enough, so it takes 30 minutes change to off when it should take 3. Basically, it probably is worn out. Get a new one. Bingo!
  
  You might just want to spray the outside of the carb/throttle body liberally with a gumout type cleaner first to see if that does it.
  
  There is one other possibility. Watch your engine temp gauge, is it up to full temp well before 30 mins? It is possible your thermostat is broken and giving your car full water flow and keeping it from warming up in cold weather. This is unlikely though.
  
  If you are having problems with the choke, and you take the car to a shop, they'll probably want to do a full carb/throttle body rebuild. This probably isn't necessary, but isn't all that bad a thing, as your car will run smoother. Your choice. Do not let them sell you a new throttle body/carb, if they want to swap it, be sure to get a rebuilt one, as they work fine and are much cheaper.

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• mishka3 Member Posts: 2

  December 2000

  Thanks for the tip. I am doubtful that this is what is happening, though. Firstly, the car now stalls at every stop sign even when warmed up. Secondly, this car is fuel injected, and I don't know if there is a choke there at all. Somebody suggested a vacuum leak or an idle speed controller failure. Any ideas?

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• kodesh Member Posts: 2

  December 2000

  Have you checked the mass airflow sensor?
  If it's gone bad, it could cause sporadic
  idle, and stalling. It's usually located
  in a little box on the tube between the air
  cleaner and your intake. Take a screwdriver,
  and tap on the top of the box with the handle
  while the car is running, if it stalls when
  you hit it, it's bad. You may need someone
  to push on the gas and keep the car running
  while you test it.
  
  hope that helps.

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• alcan Member Posts: 2,550

  December 2000

  Remove the round rubber bonnet on the airflow meter housing at the fuel regulator (where the injector lines come from) and the ducting to the intake manifold, and inspect them closely for any cracks. Do not disturb the airflow meter plate, the round disc under the bonnet. It's sensitive, requires special tools/procedure to adjust, and will cause a major driveability problem. Air entering the engine lifts the plate, which controls fuel delivery. Unmetered air entry will upset it's calibration. If no cracks in ducting, post back whether it's the Bosch CIS (Continuous Injection System), or CIS-E (Electronic). Both systems look similar, but the CIS-E has wiring connectors at each fuel injector.

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