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Comments
there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump.
If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one.
Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible.
Have fun, Vanilla Latte.
And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator.
When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any...
Good Luck !
Thanks.
the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE -
Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice-
1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end
the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp.
A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid.
Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done.
IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish.
Good luck !
Our Geo Metro has recently begun to occasionally lurch forward when accelerating from a dead stop. Sometimes this happens when it has been parked for a while or overnight, but it also happens at traffic lights, stop signs, etc., anywhere it has come to a full stop.
It lurches once, then moves forward as it should. There is no problem with changing gears or acceleration after the first "jump."
Also, this lurching is the only symptom of a possible transmission problem -- there is no noise, gear change difficulty or hesitation -- nothing.
Our Geo has a little over 83k miles on it, and it has been regularly serviced, including a transmission fluid check.
However, there are two chronic conditions worth a mention, but I don't know if they are related to the current lurching problem:
Our Geo has always had very little acceleration power on "take-off," but once it's going, it runs great. This lack of power issue has been repeatedly addressed over the years, but our mechanic has yet to pinpoint the cause -- we've learned to live with it, and we don't pull out into traffic until it's clear a looooong way down the road.
Also, wet weather seems to cause our Geo to sputter and complain -- hesitation and very little acceleration power. However, once the engine has run for a while or after the sun comes out, this disappears. This is another issue that's never been resolved, and it has been a bit of a pain since we live in Florida where it's wet most of the summer.
As to the lurching, we had our mechanic drive the Geo, and since he's not a transmission expert, he hesitated to make any diagnosis. He just advised us to have the transmission looked over.
We know nothing about transmissions, and we've heard all the horror stories about bad mechanics cheating people like us. So, understandably, we're nervous about taking the Geo in for a diagnostic on the transmission.
If anyone can suggest what we need to be aware of or if anyone has another idea what the problem might be, please post. This is our only car, and it has to last a while longer.
Thanks...
Well, the only thing I can suggest is a good tranny shop- like AAMCO .
good luck-
:confuse:
Second - please check the connection between the accelerator cable to the trouthle body. If you have very little clearence between the set srew and the "cam" plate, which is attached to the acceleratore cable - you will need to lubricate the shaft in the "carburator" ( trouthle body).
Check also the spring attached to the camplate is not damaged. :mad:
Let me know.
Our Geo has about 83000 miles on it, and it's never been driven hard or for very long distances - we use it for around town mostly.
And yes, our Geo is an automatic transmission.
I looked up CV joints today, and apparently a symptom of a bad CV joint is a clicking sound on turns. As I described in my first post, there is no noise whatsoever when the Geo lurches or when it turns. However, we'll have the CV joints checked.
I guess we'll also be seeing the AAMCO guy too.
The lurching happens mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes it will do it when it's hot. For example, if we come to a full stop at a stop sign, then accelerate, it will lurch or jump, then it's okay.
We'll have the connection and spring checked as you suggested. What you've described sounds very probable, given the Geo's performance. :sick:
Thanks again...
Deborah
Cleaned out the EGR passages as per your suggestion.
Thanks,
geometro91
Mark
Second - if the engine runs fine, do not worry about the engine lights - CO2 oxy sensor.
Check the engine - drive longer period time more that 1/2 hrs. and check the engine in idling for ligths for oil pressure. Remeber oil must be hot. Check the lights on dashborad. If nothing come red, do not worry.
Let mem know about the millage.
It runs the best it has for years. Now may be you can
help with my 1998 it is a 1.3 auto runs great but for
this dumb light service Eng soon that I have try ed to
get to go out I have changed the ecm fuel pump and a
few other parts why you ask well it stalls at time out
of the blue it will restart but it may take a few
turns of the key. It will start for a split sec and
quit any where from 5-10 times then run fine. I have
check the codes with a obd II scan tool and get 3 flashes then a few seconds later a 4th then the letter E [error code] I am left to guessing may be a bad ground some where I have been checking all of them one at a time. In my old Chevy it did some thing like this and it turned out to be the module. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks Mike
It has 116,000 miles on the vehicle. The o2 sensors were replaced 10,000 miles ago, a tune up was done less than 5, 000 miles ago, including air, oil and gas filters.
any suggestions out there? :confuse:
94 metro hatchback
A healthy new engine will have 180-195 psi (dry test )
and ( 190-200 ) wet test. Any cylinder having a low pressure reading may have a problem. The difference in pressure readings between
wet and dry, on a good motor is about 10-20 psi. If the pressure is higher with a wet test, the rings are probably worn. If the pressure is low,
and doesn't come up using a wet test, a valve is probably burnt, or the head gasket may be bad. If 2 cylinders side by side are showing the same pressure reading , it could be a bad head gasket.
The lowest acceptable reading should be 170 psi.
Have fun,
Vanilla Latte (stable companion to Espresso Nero., both 1/4 of a Ferrari and way cheaper).
Did the aftermarket pose any problems in fitting? Special brackets...... weight difference.... I'm curious.
& the other one i bought non running ran compression 2 cyl were low pulled head burnt valves again.... is this a common tin can on wheels problem ?
I've got a '92 convertible 5-speed, and about 2 & a half years ago I put in an after-market AC (the car had never before had AC). I got it from an outfit in Phoenix.
Since I was going to have my local mechanic install the system (rather than driving to Phoenix from Amarillo, TX), they asked if my mechanic had the special crimping tool required. Mechanic said yes - so I bought the system & had it installed.
Installation was pretty involved, but, then, the mechanic had never done one before on a Metro. Once installed, it worked fine - then, about 6 months later, it quit - a leak. Happened again to a 2nd hose about 6 months after that. The second time I had the mechanic pull all the all the hoses & have them crimped - voila! No problems since.
In retrospect I should either have had the mechanic talk directly to the Phoenix firm, or I should have driven to Phoenix to let them install the system.
I am glad that I did it, though - now I can drive anywhere in the country at any time of the year at 38 mpg or better.
Parts are easy to come by, Ebay is here and there are people on the net willing to help out, like..here for instance. Almost all the parts are interchangeable with the Suzuki Swift and/or Pontiac Firefly in Canada. Not really 100% sure but I think that the Firefly was made until your year... Nevertheless, don't worry. My advice, if you just bought your Geo, have the brake fluid flushed and refill with new, this fluid retains the humidity and you may lose braking power.... change your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor along with the cables. And enjoy your ride. If something happens, parts are plentiful.
Since I'm here maybe you or someone else out there can tell me if there is any way I can tell if the timing belt has been changed? I'm the third owner and do not have contact with the original owners. The lot which I purchased it from doesn't know. Can you advise? Thanks very much!
Don't go to sleep with your head full of horror stories. Some of these are propagated by jealous friends or car haters. I would be more concerned by the state of the tires, the brake fluid and the alignment. Then you move to suspension and other tidbits, until you know the age of each component. A second hand car is something that grows on you. If you liked it the first hour, you will enjoy it up to the time that you dispose of it.
Have fun with your (for you) new car.
NGK V-Power BPR6EY-11
Those are the numbers. I just looked at my tatoo.
Second, they are not hard at all to put the numbers at the correct place. You need patience, that's all. I did several for my own use when I installed a tach cluster gauge and wanted the correct reading. NO, DO NOT USE A DRILL! You have to dismantle it, it' not that hard. Are you in Canada?
My belt is no longer an issue. I do have the splash shield.
I tightened the belt bit by bit just until it stopped it's squeal. Didn't want to over stress any bearings. I've just changed the tranny fluid (what came out was unbelievable) Hoping to get smoother downshifts but I gather high mileage tranny's tend to get "notchy" on the downshifts. Just move the shifter slow & easy for success. I Have new bushings on order. I intend to get a million miles outa this little baby! DangerDude
any info reply to:
twister31634@yahoo.com\
thanks everyone
larry m in Ga.
By the way, I'm 52, but I figure the convertible will last as long as I will, I hope. I just had a new water pump and timing belt installed a couple of weeks ago. It's running better than ever.
ALSO interior roof liners, (cloth) has separated on all but 1 of my cars- how the heck do I get them down and re-glued? what kind of adhesive should I use ? :confuse: